halsey

Hi all, Note the topic title has been edited - the track plan as per Jon_1066 post (#98) is a given and well underway ...................... I am very happy to learn about layout electrics by trial and error (which works for me) but I wonder if to help my track laying phase progress if someone might point me in the right direction regarding isolated sections and placement of insulated joiners. I am using insulfrog points and have Gaugemaster D series twin controller. The reading I have got through so far suggests that the (3?) crossover sections between goods and main should be isolated from each other but exactly where, and that some short sections should be isolated to allow engines to be "parked" up but again where - is this an exact science or subjective? I suppose the number of your responses will answer the last question....................... Thanks as always.

Shame this topic is now going off message but its job for me is done and as I'm learning, even thought its my first ever post, it isn't "mine" to feel possessive about - I will leave you all to get on with it Jon_1066's plan as improved by committee is the right one for me! Thanks all.

Hi Tony, All contributions gratefully received............ I'll leave it to those who you are criticising to reply from a more knowledgeable standpoint - for my part I'm happy that it delivers what I wanted given the confines of OO gauge in a 9x7shed. It is now underway and providing plenty of enjoyment already. BFN

Hi I'm getting better at navigating this minefield on the web and have found more info - looks as though the Bachmann Jinty is the answer - thanks

Hi Mike, Do you know which has full 6 wheel pick up as the advice seems to be that with insulfrog points this is a must. J

Hi all, Given that I'm using peco insulfrog points and loosely modelling era 3 LMS which/what shunter should I buy? Please avoid kits and high prices!

All - thanks for the input - plenty to investigate over the Christmas period - thanks again.

many thanks all good stuff - there is certainly a lot to learn I could also do with understanding a bit more about uncoupling methods and "ramps" - what do informed enthusiasts do?

Morning, I fully understand and have done some investigation - now committed to insulfrog - not saying you aren't right but that's a decision made and money spent. BFN

All Insulfrog As you will discover when we get there I'm even more clueless on electrics! Lets start another theme - point motors (or not) - obviously on my raised branch I'm using surface Peco due to clearance issues but what to use elsewhere? What switches? Decoupling methods/ramps? Again Pecos shiny boxes aren't cheap - do I remember my Dad using manual methods tubes and wire???

Thanks - "O" gauge is the holy grail - love it! I would always drill (and never the last sleeper) so I agree I will avoid the more contrived solutions and I think probably all used points. Back to my new best friends at Track Shack - 1 double slip and 3 curved points - "ouch"

Thanks Chris (all) - that's where I'm headed next - typical of me to try my own thoughts rather than follow the CAD drawing because I can't accept that I don't know better! Change of direction - I had a couple of Hornby LMS crimson carriages arrive yesterday very disappointed with the quality (will resell sometime) - my Dad used to model in Germany and no comparison to Fleischman/Marklin! Are there lots of different (Hornby) manufacturing periods and is older stuff better or worse. Also some poor "integral plastic couplings have appeared on one coach and one "Brake" wagon - just starting to engage with E bay for this (been using it for years) so I'm happy to learn by reselling where needed at least its cheaper than using loads of petrol but a few tips would help! BFN

Hi all (Jon) I read all posts again from the beginning this morning just to reflect and as you all said (in various ways) there is no substitute for me getting my hands dirty! Lessons learned so far (do you agree?)- Don't hammer track pins home! Think twice cut once Setrack ST245 curved points don't work (why do they make them!) "Track Shack" are the best - 11/10 on customer service so far. Not everything on EBay is as it seems esp used points and carriages! All track "spacesavers" seem very expensive - OK they may not look good but which ones work without issues - streamline curved points, double slips, 3 way points (Hi Jon - your plan uses all of these?) Just in relation to the branch line station "entrance" I prefer the idea of a 3 way as per Jons early ideas rather then 3 curved points as per the "final" plan - comments would be appreciated but I could do with the space! I'm still smiling - some stuff heading back to E Bay after Christmas!

its on my list - not many prying eyes in this weather!

Good idea how do I do that - does anyone know - remember w.e.f. 17th Nov I was new to all this so simple instructions please! Any new title suggestions? Does it stay on this forum? How does it link so the thread isn't lost? BFN

all good and understood - will continue as per plan for which I'm VERY grateful PHOTOS as promised Material progress as follows.................. Track plan decided upon Missing/required track 95% purchased (eBay) CJ Freezer operational book purchased (eBay) Branch baseboard sorted and located (not fixed) Gradient part located/tacked - pretty clever bit of kit! Next job will be to sort a robust track/scenery joint at both ends of bridge section - no issues just time - and then start setting out again and laying the loops I can't thank all of you enough for your help and advice so far!

Thanks - I'm on the case!

Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.......so a question for me remains - is it a "hidden" fiddle yard or a "visible" marshalling yard (the latter was what I had thought it to be)? I assume the latest version doesn't have a headshunt because it doesn't need it. Is there a SIMPLE reference book which would guide me on operational practice as applied to a model railway? I've got lots on layouts wiring baseboards etc etc BUT nothing that covers how a train should move about. ....................continuing thanks

Hi Chris/Jon I'll have another look before I get started tomorrow - but I have to say prefer it the other way round for modelling (not train logistics) reasons. BUT - I would be very happy if someone could explain very simply why operationally this is better than the other way round and if this needs be a major consideration for me? Thanks all.

Thanks K for more contributions I will stay with relocating the branch such that it is NOT over the fiddle Exhibitions not of interest I'll look forward to BL contributions when I get there.!

Morning all, Nearly had a major wobble overnight as I hate indecision and do want to get on. Still intend to continue as per Sunday 29th 15.09 post - the only real issue for me is that I would have preferred the branch to be behind me but I think the negative of it being over the marshalling yard is too strong (I might make it smaller/simpler - perhaps just a run around and a siding on a 6ft * 8" shelf which would solve it) - the difficulty is that I don't feel I can do anything until I resolve where the branch baseboard and its gradient is going and how the points on the main loop(s) work - I am away now until Wednesday.

Hi David - you are working from the wrong "final" drawing - it is attached above with Jon_1066 comments but attached again here to further clarify

thanks - I think it illustrates why the latest plan is the one to follow (as posted above at 17.00) - Chimers point is also well demonstrated.

Hi Chris - I had already decided to do that and to take that challenge on board for the reasons you have said - I will finally start building branch baseboard and gradient on Wednesday! Thanks for all contributions - perhaps photos will be the next post before Christmas. I am intending to lay on cork and have bought a 5m 2mm roll so do I stick it (with a light tack glue) all over the baseboards and trim away what's not wanted over time or I do allow the track where fitted (nailed down) to hold it in place making the trimming easier - but will it then hold? I am proposing to use long throw Peco point motors so minimum holes in baseboards. So in summary this is what I will build pretty much as drawn here (attached again for clarity) - thanks again to all parties esp Jon! BFN

sorry its not to scale - trust me it fits - I have loose laid the track. thanks.