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Do Markits/Romford provide any sprung, brass buffers for 4mm Class 37s? I know they provide round 22" buffers, but I am struggling to find oval. I understand the prototype dimensions for class 37 oval buffers to be 21.5" x 14".

If Markits do not, who else provide a high-quality 4mm sprung oval loco buffer for Class 37s?

The closest I could find was:

<deleted>

13 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

 

In my experience the first place to look for this set of symptoms (slow, noisy, grinding sounds) on centre motor twin bogie drives is whether the drive couplers in the flywheels are slipping.

 

This does mean a strip down of the mechanism so worth first looking for the 'sign peculiar' that indicates that this may be the cause. Put single dots of marker pen ink on the driven wheel tyre sides to make it easier to assess rotational rate. If you can see that the wheels are turning at different rates when comparing one bogie to the other, most likely it is slipping drive couplers. (The shaft drive to both bogies means that all wheels must turn at the same rate if the mechanism is in good shape.)

 

There are other potential causes, but they are all going to be 'internal' so you lose little by stripping down the mechanism even if the drive couplers are not slipping. The other major possibility is if the model has stood out of use for some time (years) and the grease lubricant has set solid on the gears. Makes dreadful noises, corrected by a clean up and light relubrication: that only requires the bogies to come out..

Hi, thank you for your post. It has definitely not been ran for 3 years!

31 minutes ago, The Johnster said:

As it's an 'older' model, can I ask if it has spent any time in storage?

 

This, as 34 suggests, can be sorted with a good clean out of the supplied lubricant, a rattlecan electronic cleaner spray is ideal as it'll blow most of the crud away, and subsequent application of fine machine oil with a syringe.  Leave it long enough after spraying for the cleaner to evaporate off, and try to get away with the minimum possible amount of oil when you re-apply.

 

I often find that a strip down and deep clean gets rid of problems even if you don't identify what they were; a re-assembly will have the loco running perfectly just because you've tidied up and re-assembled correctly!

 

Worth a try...

Hi, Do you have a particularly spray in mind which is good?

Yes it is an old model (circa 2006 I think). What level of granularity of "re-assembly" are we talking? (I can't say I have ever stripped a loco before). As in, could you give an idea what components you would take apart? Just so I don't take apart too many!

Would you say this video (below) would help?

I am after the body (or loco without sound) from class 37 (Bachmann 32-376DS) 37693 (photo below) and Railfreight OCA, BAA and SPA wagons.

I have an older Bachmann 66 analogue but 8-pin which sounds very unwell. In one direction it's a little loud and moves slow (I'd guess 40% of top speed) and in the other direction is is very loud and moves even slower (20%?). In the second direction it sounds like a lawnmower! Not a screech, but just a general loud..... grinding? noise.

As a layman my best guess would be some sort of cog/gear/something-with-teeth has blunt teeth and they are not interfacing with the other cog/gear as efficiently as they should, causing the loud noise, with little movement. However, this is just a guess.

I was wondering if people could give an idea what I could do/check?

May I ask what buffers you settled upon, in the end?

4 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

General Principles

 

In my experience, there are only about half-a-dozen Kadees that you'll ever use, so I'd steer clear of the Starter Pack as it's as likely to confuse as inform.

 

Step 1: Get a height gauge, #205 (metal) or #206 (plastic).  The metal type last pretty much for ever, but the #206 is the one to get if you want to set things up on a layout or programming track. 

 

For modern D/EMUs, coaches or wagons with NEM mounts, (and assuming the pockets are at the correct height) #18 or #19 should cover at least 90% of situations, so those are what you will need most of. Try the #18 first, and change it if necessary. Occasionally, even a #19 will be too short and that's the time to break out the #20s. The very short #17 is only needed if the pocket sticks way out from the end of the wagon.

 

4-wheel wagons without NEM pockets generally need the #146 whisker coupler, but if they have deep buffer beams, the #141 may be better. Best practice is to whip the body off, glue the box to the underside and drill/tap for a screw to secure the lid. Drill and Tap set is #246 and Delrin screws are #256. Whisker couplers have a tendency to droop a bit and adding a fibre washer (#209) inside the draft-box takes up the slack nicely.

 

Whichever sort you are using, the inner rear face of the coupler should generally be in line with the front of the buffer heads unless you have very gentle curves. That's what decides your choice of NEM coupler or dictates where to fix the box when fitting the other kind.

 

John

 

 

Really appreciate this! Just have a few questions:

-Why doesn't #205 allow setting things up on a layout or programming track, if the only difference is it is made from metal, so you mean because it conducts?

-You mention the 20s: is the only difference between 20, 21..... etc the length? They just keep getting longer?

-Are #246 and #256 needed for #141, not for #146?

17 minutes ago, JZ said:

Why don't you buy a selection and try for yourself. A lot depends on the radii you are using, what works for one, may not work for another.

I forget a lot of people use flexi track, I was thinking 1st/2nd/3rd radius, i.e. standardized (which isn't true).

I own the usual British wagons for the 80s:

Bachmann: TTA, MFA, BAA, OCA, BDA, SSA

Hornby: Seacow, ZBA, ZCV, ZGV

FTG: SPA

but I'm completely unsure what Kadee product numbers I require.  Has anyone made a table detailing which Kadee product number is best for the popular British wagons? 

Would it worth using this post to create a table so other people can use it as a reference (I'm free for moderators to edit my post with new data). I'm not sure if you'd need two suggestions, one for tightest radius and one for normal.

If not, could anyone with knowledge on Kadee couplings please recommend which ones I would require?

Thanks in advance,

On 05/02/2019 at 09:44, wirey33 said:

Just to give you a clue what you're up against...

 

Fuel Tanks/Battery Boxes

Buffer Cowlings

Flush Ends

ETH Receptacle Position

Headlight Position

Marker Light Position

Boiler Port Variations

Liveries

Variations of Liveries

Number Position Variations

Number Size Variations

Depot Plaques

Depot Embellishments (i.e Dogs, Castle, Stags etc.)

 

and one that never gets mentioned....

 

Brush or Crewe built.

 

 

Hope you don't mind I have a few questions:

1. Brush or Crewe-built: surely this isn't an actual difference, it just explains some of the aforementioned differences?

2. Are battery boxes completely different to fuel tanks ? I understand there are 3 fuel tank arrangements- does this mean I have no more to learn regarding battery boxes?

3. Could you please elaborate upon Boiler Port Variations and Marker Light Position?

The rest of your list I have a good understanding of.

2 hours ago, teacupteacup said:

Yep thats it, the easiest way to tell is the line along the bottom of the bodyshell - if it steps up at under the cabs, then that loco has the bufferbeam cowling removed.  Have  a look at the picture of 47365 you posted above and you'll see what I mean

 

If my memory serves me correct, not all loco's had both ends done (just to throw yet another spanner in the detailing works)!

Yeah, I found another photo where you could clearly see the "missing" component. 

Are there any more tank configurations I missed above/has Bachmann covered most of them across those three models?

After a Bachmann 31-650Z "Windsor Castle" 47835 body

Ah, is this a "cut away" buffer beam? There is no protruding part immediately-below the yellow frontage? 

40 minutes ago, teacupteacup said:

This pic shows the modification made to quite a few 47s

 

Have a look on class47.co.uk, pick a loco and study the detail differences, as said about there a numerous differences between 47's, most noticeable being...

 

• Flush cab fronts
• Cut away bufferbeams/lower cabs
• Underbody fuel tanks and battery boxes

 

Make sure you check which end the flush front is at too!

Hi, I have checked flush/ends and fuel tanks, I was just struggling to see the difference between a cut-through beam (and a non-cut through)?

Regarding fuel tanks, I found Bachmann provide three different configurations (sorry I don't know the different names) across their 47 models (see images below). Are there any more? 

50 minutes ago, teacupteacup said:

Another detail to be wary of is that a lot of flush fronted 47s had cut away buffer beams too

Hi, thanks for your reply. Could you possibly elaborate on this? I'm not entirely sure exactly what you mean. Could you show a photo?

Anyone? 

After Bachmann Railfreight BAA wagons

After the body from Bachmann 32-376DS Class 37 Railfreight (no red stripe) photo below. Will take chassis too but only without sound.

8 hours ago, Worsdell forever said:

Don't think now is the best time to bring up something like this, Andy is running around like a blue arsed fly trying to get people logged in and getting the forum running right.

Retailers generally post in their 'own' sections and they certainly won't wand their products mixed up with everyone else's stuff.

 

I did consider this wasn't the best time, but if I don't mention it now, I will forget. And it doesn't have to be actioned now.

Retailers post in their own forums because currently that's the natural place to post. However, if they were asked to post them in a "limited edition" sub-forum then I assume they would. It makes no sense forcing users to keep checking 5/6 different retailer sub forums for limited editions, when we could just check one sub forum. I don't purchase limited editions due to the retailer, just the product, so there's no rationale for forcing me to visit the retailer's sub forum. 

I wouldn't be surprised if a advertising a commission in a "limited editions" sub-forum received more views than if it had been posted in the retailer's sub-forum.

The rule to selling is make life easy for your customer. Why make me visit lots of different sub forums, when I can check one place for new commissions?

(Please consider after server migration)

Rather than each retailer put their commissioned limited editions in various retailer sub forums, could we have a sub forum dedicated to commissioned limited edition products? It makes keeping an eye out for such products much easier than visiting every retailer sub forum.

Don't think the "Wanted" forum is working, I can't see a button to post a new thread?

I have found a few class 47s (sector livery) I would like to model but they had only one flush end. Given the Bachmann 47 cab end is part of the moulding/not replacable, what is the best Bachmann donor to model these?

All the Bachmann 47 models i find seem to have no flush ends, or both ("Pectinidae"), never just one.

Apologies for terminology, but with Bachmann class 47, are the cabin "ends" (the yellow flush/non-flush face) replaceable?

Have the pre-orders reached a point where you can say whether there will be a second Railfreight livery/design-variant?

 

Can we pay the pre-order deposit using Paypal?

Apologies, but could someone answer this? Thanks (in advance)