Teabag

Similar for me, low speed crash resulting in 2 plates and 11 screws (12th screw would be where the gap in the bones is) holding my left arm together. Mrs T insisted that the bike had to go which was rather depressing until I had the idea of using the space in the garage for a model railway. So, my beloved SV650S was replaced by 12' by 6' OO gauge layout which almost compensates... Teabag

Also critical is the transition from the straight to the curve,if you make this nice and gentle - as per JST's photo above, the tightness of the final curve is a little less obvious. Teabag

I'm a bit lazy....Halfords grey primer all over and then Railmatch Sleeper Grime, again sprayed all over, then rub the tops of the rails with hardboard or a strong cloth - isopropyl alcohol for the stubborn bits. Then, once it has been ballasted I gradually over time add detailing - oil, grease etc. to stop it looking too uniform. Teabag

In my garage I have two fluorescent strips mounted on the ceiling and find that when I sit to view the trains just above track height the light is too bright such that I don't see the detail on the trains unless I shield my eyes as you would if looking at something with the sun behind. This is really annoying - not sure what the solution is other than wearing hat... Teabag.

Back in either 1982 or 83, to celebrate it's 50th jubilee our primary school hired a train for all 350 pupils from Chingford to Southend reversing at LIverpool Street. Teabag

I varnish the underside and use timer undercoat and then a sort of dark mud coloured emulsion mix on top. My layout lives in a damp garage that varies from 5 to 35C. No warping in 4 years. Teabag

Just a reminder of a very useful site about for 1st generation DMUs to lose yourself in: http://www.railcar.co.uk/

I completely agree with this. While I marvel at some of the wonderfully realistic and accurate layouts on this site and in the magazines, I eventually came to the conclusion that I personally (everyone is different...of course) wanted to enjoy operating my layout. To this end I have started building a larger (easier curves etc.) Bredon (post #36 http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79714-the-best-train-set-layout-you-ever-saw/page-2 and the Peco Settrack plans)set in the late 1980s with extra storage to allow a bigger variety of trains. One day I will get round to posting some pictures...

Hello All, Go a reply today direct from Knightwing: The dimensions of our kit PM118 are approximately 10.5 inches by 1.25 inches. Hope this helps anyone else with a similar query. Note also that there are two in each kit. Teabag

Just out of interest, why do you wish to measure the stopping distance with such precision? I imagine that there will be some variation in this depending on the ambient and motor / bearings temperatures which might exceed the precision you need.

Hello All, I have tried a search on here and Google and can't find anywhere the length of the Knightwing PM118 Loading / Unloading Point. Does anybody have one? I'm trying to work out how many I need to order for a oil unloading siding. http://www.knightwing.co.uk/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?cart_id=&product=OO-HO_Building_Kits&pid=181 Thanks, Teabag.

They sort of did but not quite that much..... http://www.hondawanderer.com/45112_Broad_Marston_2007.htm Teabag

Very tempted by this in NSE. Apologies for the terrible quality (scan of a print) but here is a 3TC in NSE at Southampton in either 1991 or 1992 (83301 was there on the same day with the red and blue 4TC). Teabag

If the frog is wired to correct terminal, try swapping over the DCC feed to each point in turn (from the pictures it looks like Red and Black) and check again. Teabag