Dave John

There seem to be few peak roof lime wagons owned by railway companies rather than private owners. However, the Caledonian built 40 Dia 25 lime wagons from 1886 to 1888. I would be surprised to find any of them lasting into the grouping. An example;

I find the liquid solvents too fast for laminating styrene. I still use Revell Contacta which is I think a gel with limonine as the solvent. Allows those seconds to get the alignment right. Then the whole assembly gets weighted flat with plenty of drying time.

There were three Caledonian D 39 6 wheel NPC Vans allocated to Stephen Mitchell ( No. 200-202) and one to F&J Smith for the carriage of tobacco. They carried the users name in large letters. Not sure , but I think they might have been thirled. There was considerable Tobacco traffic from Glasgow, usually in npcs. See "Caledonian Railway Wagons" by Mike Williams for further details.

A really good video Northroader. The rolling stock has much of the look of the stuff I am trying to create over in the 1/50 scale project, so many thanks for posting it.

Then you get the fly guy who leaves an inch gap between bricks on the first few layers, loads the last layer tight , gets a pat on the back from the foreman and off to the pub .........

The Wagon on the tt in that pic could be a CR D46 coke wagon. Cupboard doors and planks match, square headstock, what looks like CR greaseboxes. No idea why it is there though.

Then again Tony there are I think a good many modellers like myself who have gone in exactly the opposite direction by choosing to model subjects for which there is no rtr available. Why? Well, I wouldn't claim that my finished models could compare with the best of modern rtr but for me the pleasure of sitting down at the bench and making them far outweighs that of just opening a box and owning them. It may be that you see less scratchbuilding because of the time taken to make things, but perhaps costs will swing the pendulum the other way. The bench this morning, not a box in sight; Each to their own I suppose.

Good to see that you are encouraging young modellers to have a go at making things.

That is how i do it Phil, but with two controllers. every section on the layout can be switched to either the up or down controller or off, but the signalling only clears if a plausible route is set. Looking at the track plan having 3 trains moving at once would give me a headache, so why three controllers?

Signals can be fragile, but the simple solution is to make ones which can be unplugged and stored safely when you are working near them on the layout. They also have a small base area.

The body is made up in my usual way, 10 thou styrene cut by the silhouette and laminated to form the structure. The mechanism takes up about 2/3 of the volume so I had room to form a simple brake compartment. Never all that popular in the UK, but quite common elsewhere in the world. Four 2x2 mm round magnets hold the body on, as in the loco these carry the current for the marker lights at the ends and the cab light. The leds have come out very bright in the photos, much less to the eye. A couple of photos I had a plastic box spare, not too large so I made the controller in that. As it happened I had a duff torch sitting on the bench so I took the led module out and built it into the controller, useful sort of thing to have round a layout. A train. Not quite enough stock for a layout, but it is a change of scene for me.

Hi Mikkel, I painted round the frames , a bit tends to run into the glazing bars by capillary action. Here is a pic from an angle. So its the whole sheet of windows, then a sheet of white 10 thou for the main frames each side, then a sheet of brown. finally the beading is half round styrene , and the timber sides are printed.

Just a thought Mikkel. I would be tempted to make the glazing the base layer and use the silhouette with a very low blade setting to scribe the whole first layer. Subsequent pre painted layers are then added, but the whole thing is defined by the part that draws the eye. Thats how I did the stairs on Kelvinbank.

Nicely done, I bet it sits well with the weight of the whitemetal body. Facing brick was traditionally thinner than common brick, so it could be a load of those.

That is in so many ways a superb photo Compound. Attention to detail right from the chair legs to the Lincrusta ceiling panels.

Yes there is; https://www.telegraphpoleappreciationsociety.org A very useful resource.

I enjoy reading both threads and blogs, particularly those in which the writer is describing the way in which they actually made something. As a writer of two blogs I shall explain why I prefer the format over a thread. If I buy a non fiction book then I expect it to be divided into chapters and I expect the chapter headings to describe the content of the chapter. I have tried to write my blog in the same fashion. This I think is useful from both the point of view of the reader and the writer, particularly with regard to finding information from some time ago. When I write a blog I prepare using a text editor and then copy it across to rmweb. Once the blog is published I create a folder with the name of the blog and the text, photos and video go into that folder which is then stored locally in a folder full of blogs. I therefore have a correctly archived set of blogs, which has proved invaluable for the restoration of lost pictures. The whole thing may be of interest to others but it also provides me with a record of my modelling activity should I need to refer back for any reason. Following the loss of photos there have been some issues with dating material, causing the spam effect described above. The solution is simple. When I edit a blog to restore photos I go down to the bottom of the page. There is a box labelled "publish now" which is ticked by default. Untick it and hover over the box to the left of it; a calendar pops up which allows the editor to go back and republish on the original publishing date thus preserving the chronological order of the blog. I hope that clears the air a bit and to an extent encourages RMweb to allow writes to create either blogs or threads to suit their personal style.

It was Willie Whizz, though there was an EM background so 18.2 mm gauge was used. I never saw Pempoul , though there are good videos. Certainly inspirational. Since I am effectively starting from scratch I can be precise and go for 20mm gauge. Whether it ends up a layout depends on time, for now I am happy experimenting with ideas. Cheap radio control, axle hung motors, magnets as conductors, using parts as components rather than the scale they were made for.

It does all get rather messy. So I decided to find a quiet corner and choose my own scale. 1/50. Really logical if you think metric. 1 mm on a model represents 50 mm in real life. 20 mm is a metre, so metre gauge track is bang on 20 mm gauge. Even if you have to think imperial it is 0.24 inches to the foot. Not too hard to work with. Some folk might suggest that the downside is that you have to sit down at the bench and make everything. I would argue that making everything is the point of the exercise.

With regard to long folds, and from a personal viewpoint, I prefer a single half etch over a series of through etches . As described above it is easy to skrawk through a linear half etch to give an accurate even fold, the serrated effect is difficult to fix. I am trying to find out which of these could be found to the west of Glasgow in the Edwardian era. Rule 1 might apply, I do like them. A whole new livery to learn too.....

Cheers Mikkel. It would fit in an O sized wagon, with clever batteries and rc gear it might be shoehorned into a OO one. There is some seriously small rc equipment available though tends to be pricey.

There was early glassmaking at Finneston in Glasgow and some at Dumbarton, though I don't think it was plate glass. Plenty of interesting wagons to keep you scratch building there Compound.

Very nicely done, the ropework is first class. Casks are well painted too. I like the weathering, spot on, I think too many modellers over weather. One very minor observation if I may. A spot of solder or superglue to fill the slight gap in the the links of the 3 link couplings. I find it strengthens them too.

Very nice indeed.

Perhaps ot , but with reference to Annies second photo. Why the signal next to the shed ? A couple of nice Scotch Derricks in there too.