LMSfan72

Both ends now done. Here are the pictures of the mods inside: bridged the pads by the switches

Here is 57311 with one end done for the lighting. I’ll include “inside” shots when I do the other end. In summary, I: - bridged the pads where switches could be fitted. This enables power feeds to the cab connectors and AUX7 and AUX10 connectors - removed the tail lights by unplugging them and removing the SMDs - added new dual SMDs to the tail light positions wiring them into AUX1 and the R connectors with new plugs - printed a chassis mount to take the top light. Plugged that into the cab socket - cut the headlight light tube and added another SMD led to the night position. Used black tack to secure the SMDs and act as shrouds (might improve that). Plugged this into AUX7/(AUX10 depending on end)

Although I think I skipped the interior as I didn’t like mine! I’ll be keen to see how it turns out

I think that’s what I did too. I used the ESU 150 sound file.

Waiting for transfers to arrive and paint to harden

I blew it over with a very light coat of Lifecolour rail blue!

Last nights painting had mixed results: I mixed up a match for the sleeper but ran out with a little to do and then mixed too dark. Working out how to bring it back…… The GBRF I am pleased with - better than Hornby’s but the gold not as strong as Accurascale’s and the Mentor’s are really good

So true! I ended up creating a whole new body and using Dapol cabs grafted on before adding the WIPACs and everything else for both the sleeper and GBRF 9s

Sleeper: GBRF:

Best colours I could find! I’m amazed how little pigment was in the GBRF Orange. Now that the blue is on I can see how patchy the other is!

Maybe this is what an Accurascale advert could have been like!

Until I can come up with something better I have just cut up the old roof grills:

….. meanwhile… 3 different versions of RTC Mentor in paint! 1974 at the back, 1986 in the middle and 1990 at the front:

So, after a lot of fiddling with lights and printing some more details, here we have: GBRF in the paint shop and the sleeper in full primer (complete with finger marks due to my impatience!): The shark fin base is as thin as I could go and the aerial mast base is slight oversize I think, but, it looks the part!

Good news - I can now mount the LEDs inside the WIPAC. Dual led on the inboard light and single on the outboard. Some black paint inside should reduce light bleed. I just have to remember to mask when painting!!

Hi Antony. Can you send me a PM to discuss what you need?

Yes, and the ETH multiple working connector and I have the shark fin aerials ready to go too. Now seeing if I can print hollow WIPACs to fit SMD LEDs behind so they sit between the body and the WIPAC and therefore only need wire clearance on the inside...

The body, with grafted Dapol cab ends fits on a Dapol chassis: and also a Hornby chassis The only problem is putting working lights in. The WIPAC clusters are right in line with the chassis so the Dapol chassis will need cutting back to make room for LEDs

Mine arrived. Ran fine. Filled up the water. Ran again. No “steam” Rang Hornby technical. Reset decoder, reloaded sound profile. Still no “steam”. The manual doesn’t say it but the loco needs to have F1 on for steam as well as sound. Rang them back, new suggestion from workshop is to run it for 5 mins as reports that it takes that long to start with. (I can only imagine that’s for water to soak into a sponge type thing as the ultrasonic bit should be instantaneous). Ran for 20 mins. Nothing. Sucked water back out and going back in the morning. 100% record for Hornby on new locos the last 12 months! Grrr.

Ready for glueing Although I need to fill and strip the cabs first!

Whilst the sleeper is trial fitted. Note that I am keeping the body “deformed” until glued

Meanwhile back in the GBRF yard

This one will become a sleeper version… First task was to strip down a Dapol shell. I then drilled the top marker light… …and cut off the redundant detail learning from the GBRF build i did this whilst the cabs were still attached so it doesn’t force the joins and new body. Next will be the major surgery!

Thnaks Denny, I'll take a look. (I still might have a go at printing it as part of the body)

If anybody can suggest a source for the fan grill - just some brass mesh would likely do - I’d be keen to know!