classy52

28 minutes ago, Barrington said:

Anyone know of any stockist that still has some 68008 models in stock in 4mm scale? Can't seem to find any online.

 

Here's one...http://www.goinglocomodels.com/product/Dapol-4d-022-010d-class-68-680008-avenger-drs-late-modified-dcc-fitted-oo-gauge/

59 minutes ago, GEOEng03 said:

great stuff.  Believe it or not, wires dragging on motors and driveshafts is a common noise/knocking on models and have had it on most makes if wires are not secured properly.  Crazy how such a small item can have such an effect...

 

Glad you have fixed it and it was as straightforward as that. 

No worries thanks.

Not ready to pull apart Hattons 66's just yet but will reach that level eventually in time.

I might actually buy a dead Hatton's 66 if it's below £70 and have a go at dismantling it and not worrying about killing a running one and just keep it for parts like adb968008 has been doing...sounds like a plan.

Well took the body off on 66783 Biffa and inspected the innards and the only noticeable thing was 2 black wires straddling the driveshaft but not doing much just sitting on top so to speak, repositioned the wires away from it and put it on the rolling road and the thumpy/knocking noise didn't return and now its running normally in both directions for a good while last night and this morning.

Put the body back on, a real expert now at doing this now with credit cards and no bits pinging off, and yes it is running fine thus no idea what was happening to it previously so will run it everyday and monitor.

Maybe I knocked something back into place whilst taking the body off and fiddling with it???

Anyway Biffa is saved!!!...for now but BR LL 66789 is still a worry and a work in progress, defo need to save that one at all costs!

For all us Class 37 fans, just watch 9mins of mesmerizing smoke action 
 

Not my video thus please like or subscribe to the original owner.

3 minutes ago, adb968008 said:

Now I dont want to cause a panic....

 

 

But...

 

I see the purple one wasn't very popular...

Thanks all for the advice on my GBRf 66789 but haven't had the chance to take a look due to DIY.

Anyway, this is getting a bit ridiculous because now I'm running my GBRF 66783 Biffa and after about 20mins it has now developed an internal knocking sound at the driver end (non-exhaust) and feel it is now going the same way as 66789 where any minute it now something will fall apart and it will cease to work, I've stopped running it.

Too be honest 3 failures in as many days including the Freightliner ONE which I have sent back today for a refund is not really acceptable and considering I have 9 of them doesn't bode well for the future and will have to remember to run them constantly on my rolling road whilst they are in warranty, the biggest downside is that my failed/failing ones are now sold out and basically can't send them back as I'll never get those Hattons versions again.

I suggested to Hattons they setup a warranty repair team considering they've gone into manufacturing and more than likely will continue to do so thus having at least 1 person with the qualifications/skills to conduct repairs would be an idea going forward, can't keep sending stuff back for a refund especially when they are sold out.

Now this is quite amusing, just started running my 66789 after doing the AB's and after about 5mins of running very smoothly something fell apart inside (that what it sounded like) and subsequently the wheels started to struggle and then it completely seized up.

I can hear the motor working, or the sound of current, but no movement from the wheels...any suggestions on what might be the issue?

56 minutes ago, adb968008 said:

Most likely the brush isn't reaching the commutator.. I've found this on two of my “intermittent runners” (haven't done the rest yet).

 

Although I have now identified a spare motors (a grand total of £2.52 on ebay), ive not needed them in the end... as once I pulled it apart, it was as simple as just bending the brush inwards a little. The motor is little more than a traditional Hornby X247 motor just in a can, and 5 pole.

 

What i’d suggest is probe test the contacts to the motor on the circuit board (isolates the issue to being between the track / board, or if its a motor issue)... marked M+ and M- on the board..

 

You can them work backwards or forwards from there, one of mine just had a blanking chip not seated right.. 

Many thanks for the info and have to say your knowledge is excellent.

I don't think I'm there yet or have the confidence with doing what you have suggested and do admire the work you do on the dodgy loco's you have purchased but I think I'm about 6-12 months away (maybe longer) from your skill level with pulling these things apart, testing and replacing motors etc....I've only recently become brave enough to carry out your rotating AB fix with a drill to the bogie frames and yes works a treat, done 3 today.

Also I don't have any testers yet so think of me of someone getting into model railways about 5 years ago spending his time researching, collecting & selling but now moving into the more serious business of designing and preparing to build his own layout in the near future but at the same time building up the tools and knowledge from people such as yourself.

Trust me I would love to take Pinky apart and even replace the motor but I don't mind sending it back and waiting on another one or even purchasing a brand new one down the line just before they sell out if I don't get a cheap pre-owned that runs.

Anyway, keep up the top work and information on testing/repairing these loco's.

18 minutes ago, ERIC ALLTORQUE said:

Check back to page 186,its same model all there thanks to @adb968008

That's all well and good if you have spare motors laying around (I don't, not been doing this long enough yet to accumulate) and also have the expertise in taking a model apart at that level and replacing the motor with one from a different loco.

Also adb968008 had purchased it dead where mine was sold as working with a wobble but it did run for about 10mins before it suddenly stopped.

Anyway, took the body off and conducted a rudimentary check of the inside's and all looked to be in order thus maybe just a dead motor, unfortunately it will be going back to Hattons on Monday and I'll just wait for the next one to pop up.

Excellent announcement to add to my already growing AS nuclear wagon collection (not to mention all the other wagons/loco's purchased already or on pre-order) thus just keep bleeding me dry, I just don't care anymore...once again well done Accurascale.

Got my Pink Freightliner this morning and it's almost brand new for £89, everything intact including everything with the box so a great deal.

Now after some running for about 10mins in both directions, yes it wobbles as described, but it now has unfortunately decided not to run at all just like that out of the blue and the lights at both ends still work for both directions.

Just wanted to know what would be the likely cause of this?

I've never taken these apart to do mechanical or electrical fixes only taking the bodies off to cosmetically correct them and fix the AB wobbles thus before I reluctantly send it back would welcome any feedback on the causes of the motor suddenly stop working without warning and there aren't any smells from the loco thus nothing is burning or out of sorts electrically.

Cheers

Steve

Isn't this a coincidence...just came across this, not my video thus please like or subscribe for the original owner.

10 minutes ago, Roy Langridge said:

 

I think this is where people glue them in as non-revolving.

 

Roy

Ah yes didn't think of that, just assumed everyone was sticking with rotating AB's.

Just earlier purchased Freightliner Pink ONE (bargain £89) thus now have x10 66's to cure and yes I'm doing the bogie frame holes & back part as detailed by Peter Dixon & adb968008 on their YT channels which are extremely helpful, just completed my first 66 this week and now steady as a rock so onto the other 9....

I'm curious about the above posts talking about cutting down the AB's and re-fitting but no mention of bogie frame holes adjustment?

Do you actually shorten the AB shafts and then re-fit them, because the only decent workaround to stop the wobble I've seen is to widen the bogie frame holes with 3.2mm drill bit or something similar and taking off the spring excess off the back of the bogie frame as well so they fit flush when you push them back in but I've seen nothing on just cutting or shortening the actual AB's to stop the wobble.

4 hours ago, Hilux5972 said:

How are you getting these exact numbers? When I look at the website it just says more than 10 in stock. 

You add the item to your basket and then in the 'Qty in Cart' box you then add a random number (what you think is left, take a guess) and click on 'Update and Save Cart' and if the number skips back to 1 then what is left is less than what you put in, or if your number stays the same then it is either less than or = to or greater or = to what is left of that 66.

You keep doing this going backwards or forwards until you reach the point where your number input doesn't skip back to 1, but remember at each input of a number you must 'Update and Save Cart'...quite handy when you are watching the numbers for budgeting purposes.

Hopefully I've explained that correctly...

20 hours ago, adb968008 said:

how does mine look ?

 

its actually a 3D transfer.

6 hours ago, railtec-models said:

 

It's a cross-over, and a concept pioneered by Railtec which I've gradually been refining over the past 4 years. I'm one of those who constantly wants to push boundaries and a new concept such as this are one of the fruits.

 

As adb968008 says, there's no filing off the sprue (so no risk of damaging), and my own personal opinion is that the relief both on the plate itself as well as the text and border is more true to life, which can be adjusted to suit, and particularly noticeable on those cruise liner class 40 plates which stand even more prominent from the bodyside. They generally tend to work out cheaper too, and you also get a spare (not that it should be needed as they're surprisingly robust).

 

The past couple of versions of the 3d waterslide has also seen the introduction of the mounting bolts, and a couple of the Trans Pennine plates have quite unusual offset configurations which has been faithfully replicated. I'm not sure if anybody else is this mad, but below is an example, and as you can see from adb's photo above, even in 4mm they're noticeable and add that extra level of pleasing detail.

 

 

For the locos which were previously DRS, the packs also contain both the DRS and TPE numbers. There's now a renumber/rename offering for what I believe to be every TPE 68, with the typeface, the size and also spacing of the numbers (cabside and front where applicable) having all been painstakingly recreated - and they do vary of course from one 68 livery to the next and sometimes even within scheme. All the TPE renumber/rename offerings are here:

 

https://www.railtec-models.com/catalog.php?type=5&gauge=4mm&region=1&livery=69

 

 

Well they look excellent and yes I will give them a go.

Thanks both for the images and background to these new style nameplates.

Question for anyone, who does the best etched nameplates for the 68 as far as realism/scale is concerned?

Got 9 68's with the supplied nameplates from Dapol but want something extra special for my babies.

5 minutes ago, TomScrut said:

Colletts have some left at £136

 

https://www.collettsmodelshop.co.uk/product-category/model-railways-2/oo-gauge/Dapol-oo-gauge/diesel-electric-locomotives-Dapol-oo-gauge/class-68-diesel-electric-locomotives-Dapol-oo-gauge/dcc-ready-class-68-diesel-electric-locomotives-Dapol-oo-gauge/

Leigh's got 7 of each one, at least he's not profiteering like some other retailers...stampede!!!

3 minutes ago, newbryford said:

 

"Graded" bodies now £10...

https://www.dccsupplies.com/item-p-113407/graded-class-68-drs-bodyshell-1st-run-oo-gauge.htm

If you fancy the DRS body with the printing error, £5 more from Dapol and you get the proper one with nameplates as well...https://www.Dapol.co.uk/shop/oo-gauge/diesel-locomotives/OO Gauge Class 68

3 minutes ago, TomScrut said:

 

I thought 68004 was affected too. I used to have one that was affected and I think it was 4.

I have 68004 and it wasn't affected, it was only 68001, 68002 & 68005.

7 hours ago, adb968008 said:

Chassis are like gold..

 

The first few 68’s apparently had a printing error, and were replaced.

 

Since then the faulty bodies have streamed out to ebay etc, and are the basis for so many resprays, but are “on bricks” without wheels.. creating that shortage.

 

I was trying to work out exactly what the printing error was though ? Ive never actually seen a picture of the faulty ones. 

All 3 from the very first batch 68001, 68002 & 68005 had the printing error on one side.

I had purchased at the time 68001 from DRS Direct Shop for over the odds (£201) due to it being a limited run of 300 but predictably still on sale several years later and today thus I suppose I'm one of a few mugs who paid that price thinking it would sell out which it hadn't...mind you it is still that price.

Anyway had the body for 68001 replaced with a new one for free from Dapol and recently purchased their 68002 & 68005 bodies from Dapol direct (£15 each) and just waited for appropriate 68's to come up on eBay and eventually got an actual new 68002 (it still had the original printing error) and another 68003 (is now 68005) thus why I have a spare 68002 (printing error) & 68003 (new) bodies.

Too be honest not sure what to do with them whether to keep or sell???

2 hours ago, TomScrut said:

 

The green faded stripe one one side is biased towards one end of the loco when it should be even.

Yes correct, if you look at a 68 from one side with No1 end on your right it is that side where the fade stripes stop short of the cab so to speak but at the other end the stripes go beyond the cab end, its basically off centre.

28 minutes ago, adb968008 said:

Ive got 4, inc Lord President above, and potential for 5, Black Douglas, but only two rakes of stock on order.

 

i’m full, I suspect i’m at the extreme end of full, and as there is a few still about for sale, after a month now, I think that demand is somewhat fulfilled. They could float about until the mk5’s are released and then soak up, so suspect thats all folks for now.

 

There is still plenty of cheap bodies knocking about, so things like 68006 /7 you could pick up a body for under £20, get it resprayed. I wonder if we might see a new livery on the real thing soon though ? Hmm.. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah I've got both new TPE's plus 68034 which could also fulfil TPE duties so yes I'm full as well.

I also have 2 spare DRS bodies ripe for a professional respray (not me doing it) but will need a chassis or two to put them on but not seen any for sale at the usual places unfortunately, rather do that instead of keep swapping bodies.

1 hour ago, NIRCLASS80 said:

With the success of this latest run of TPE 68’s would Dapol consider another run the same size of a couple of different running numbers?

Not sure if that would work in the near future and we all might be TPE'd out, maybe in about 2 years or more to refresh it and probably even better if Accurascale produce more TPE Coach packs down the line to revive interest.

In the more near term I would quite fancy Dapol doing the ex-ScotRail 68006 & 68007 in DRS Simplified Compass livery  to fill the gap in the DRS line up from 001 to 008. 

Geez Hattons you could have warned me...fastest delivery I've ever encountered.

Ordered 2 66's at 3pm yesterday, arrived with me 9:30am this morning, now that's what I call Service!

38 minutes ago, ews60002 said:

 

I work in parcel distribution and I know the feeling all too well, I delivered a parcel yesterday that was sent on 23rd December from Nancy, France and has only just got to Cheshire today and that's mostly down to the customs problems at the channel tunnel and some due to brexit too. The normal road time is 3 days. Customs are a pain at The moment but they are getting better if not slowly.

 

Mathew

It varies I suppose, ordered a Tamiya Pin Vice last week from Japan and at my doorstep today...7 days in total which I found quite remarkable.