Brocp

That looks fantastic, looking forward to seeing her weathered. What's next on the cards Iain? I'm sure it's nearly time for a Princess, Parallel Boilered Pat or "standard" Jubilee? By the way did you ever get around to tarting up at Hornby Duke? Love the work and keep it up mate, Broc

I must say, I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of the new stock that was mentioned a while ago

Interesting thread Hornby already have an ok Duchess tooling, they've had it for the best part of 15 years now and still they haven't done 6253-6255 which only needs a new tender top. I know that they will probably never do 6256-6257... With the design clever nonsense of a few years ago, i thought the W1 and Turbomotive would have followed the Duke and P2. Probably a missed opportunity there but i underatand with the uproar that design clever brought. Caprotti Black Fives would sell but they won't make them. How about more types/diagrams of the super detailed coaches? They seem to think a first/third/brakethird/fullbrake are enough for LNER/LMS modellers. Though I'd hazard a guess that 2018 will see a LNER dyno caach with Mallard.

That sucks Les! Hope you make a full recovery as fast as possible

Bloody hell that's impressive

Nah let them make Turbomotive first

Several posts ago it was mention there were new locos and formations, could we possibly get some pics of those?

Hi Dave, How long until the lamps are on the website? Cheers mate

I hope you post a pic of her all done in LMS black Phil! Pretty please!!!

Jinties!

Abercorn was LMS experimental grey from 16th March 1946 (when she also received smoke deflectors) until 26th October 1948 when she was painted BR lined black. This is according to LMS Locomotive Profiles 11. Duchess of Sutherland was the only Duchess to be Crimson Lake and have deflectors, she was like this for just over a year (24 Aug 46 - 28 Oct 47) then was painted my personal favorite Duchess livery, post war lined black. Also I have seen a few photos of Abercorn in experimental grey dated 1947 so I can safely say she was like that with Deflectors in LMS days. Hope this helps

My god Big Bertha looks tiny next to the U1. Great shot I must say!

Hi Nelson. To answer your question no, I don't seal the powders with a varnish, I think it distorts the other tones some what, making them glossy or too matt depending on the area covered. 5C Thanks for the kind words, I agree, more LMS/LMR region layouts are needed, way too much eastern stuff on here! (Only joking eastern blokes) My next model will probably be another Compound this time Crewe North's own 1167, which had a tall Stanier chimney. Does anyone know a source for one? Any help will be much appreciated.

Thanks again BRealistic, it's an interesting point you bring up regarding the use or none use of an airbrush. I have seen some incredibly convincing weathering done with powders, personally for me I simply enjoying using the airbrush, it speeds things up and can give a good enough blend of tones into one another. But for fine detail stuff I always use powders and brush painting enamels and gouache. Airbrush weathering can be considered under painting, you want the colours and tones to show through, but the detail weathering is what brings it all together. As I said earlier I got inspiration from Tim Shackleton's methods, for me his weathering techniques are the most convincing for 4mm at least. Also and arguably most importantly, they are very enjoyable! I have plenty of models already weathered that I shall be putting up over the next few months, my next new weathering project shall be Bachmann's 4f, when it arrives. After that I'm hoping for Bachmann/Rails LMS Twins, they will be a step in the deep end as I have never weathered a Diesel loco before. Broc

Thanks so much for the compliment BRealistic, it's much appreciated. Basically I follow Tim Shackleton's weathering techniques, but I probably spend a bit more time in what I call "finishing" the model. By finishing I mean using powders, painting enamels on with brushes and using gouache. To me at least airbrushing is only the start, I personally don't think you can completely weather anything by just airbrushing. On the Compound I spent probably 2 hours finishing the model of after about 45 mins worth of airbrushing. The under frame got the basic 60:40 mix of Humbrol Matt Leather and Matt Black. Always make sure to have powered track or a 9 volt battery on hand to turn the wheels, I've completely forgotten plenty of times and a 'nice' shadow mark is always left by the motion work. The same goes for tender wheels, which are also easily forgotten in the process. The loco body is weathered again with the leather and matt black, the proportions just swapped. For the smokebox itself I swap out the matt black for Humbrol 27004 Gunmetal an absolutely brilliant paint. When dry I give the smoke box a gentle rub with a cotton bud to bring out a nice shine sort of burnished effect on the smokebox. Streaking is fairly simple with a 1/2 flat brush only barely damp in white spirit (I find this the most 'gentle' of all that metho/turps family) Powders come next. I originally used the Carrs powders but I find their Rust colours far to intense, however their greys and white are perfect for ash. Mixing up a few of the grey powders I will lightly brush some under the smokebox, where ash has been shovelled out and also after seeing it in several colour pictures, around the lubricators. I presume this is to 'mop up' any excess oil that may have been spilt in applying it. Mig powders are next and they are just brilliant. The three main shades I use are Black Smoke, Track Dirt and Dry Mud. Black Smoke is an obvious in it's use but the other two I use as an alternative for rust, Track dirt for older darker rust and dry mud for newer rust. Application is fairly simple, I use soft brushes with as minimal powder as possible and lightly brush it on building layers and 'melting' the colours into each other. Dry mud is used on brake blocks to simulate that awful colour that builds on them, both colours are used and mixed in places like the bunker and near anywhere water has been. It is all toned down by the lightest of black smoke brushing, just to get as much sharpness out of the powders as possible, the photo I copied showed rust but it didn't stand out a great deal. For the smokebox and top of the boiler I lightly brush on black smoke powder, then with a stiff brush, brush down, streaking the powder like the paint underneath it. With the powders all done (hopefully) I turn to brush painting enamels. I usually begin by taking a newish tin of gunmetal metacote and patch painting handrails, grab irons edges of steps, Basically anywhere crew members come into contact with the loco, its done to show where the weathering has been disturbed, the dirt shifted and the black livery (and sometimes bare metal) shows through. That's left to dry for a little while I move to axle boxes. A much older tin of Gunmetal is used here, 'dabbed' on with a old stiff brush. I polish some axle boxes, giving the effect of spilt oil or leave it thus giving an effect of much older 'caked on' oil. Humbrol's brilliant Coal Black is sometime used to show 'fresh' spilt oil. Humbrol gloss varnish is used to replicate water around the tender tank (inside the open tender cap I used deluxe material's 'glue n glaze') gloss varnish is used on lubricators as well. Motion work is one of the trickier things to do in my opinion just because the colour can be a to get right. Sometimes the colour sprayed onto the wheels etc matches perfectly to the photo you are using, in that case I simply brush gloss varnish with a fair amount of thinners onto it. For the Compound though the photo I copied had basically a different shade for each 'rod'. As a Compound only has two, I decided to chose two similar shaded ones to copy the best I could. To do this I use Humbrol number 9 and again gunmetal mixed in various proportions and brushed on again with a lot of thinners, building up the layers and (trying) to make realistic oily tones. After that is done I will go again with either a cotton bud or a stiff brush and in a patchy way run over the areas I painted with the gunmetal to bring out that little bit of shine on the handrails etc when they are hit by light. Then it is a simple job of going over the loco looking for things I have missed (there always is) and then she is usually all done! This is more of a general step by step in what I do but from now on I shall be more detailed in my step by steps for each loco I do. I hope you enjoy. Broc

Hi everyone, After lurking around the forum for a few years now and being inspired by many different displays of modelling I thought it was about time I added some content of my own. My passion is the LMS, especially post war and I am planning to eventually getting around to model 5A Crewe North Shed late 1947. Over the next few years I shall be updating this topic with locos i have weathered and shall be weathering. First up is Bachmann's brand new standard compound, a absolutely brilliant model of a brilliant class. This is still numbered 1189, Bachmann's standard release, while I should have renumbered it to a Crewe North member, The Compounds are an absolute minefield to model without a suitable photograph of your wanted loco in the time period. Not much detailing was done to the model, just fitting of the detailing parts, drilling out the loco lifting rings (which i drilled too large, grrrr...) replacement fireman's side handrail, opening of the tender tank filler, tender guard irons, crew, etched plates, lamps, coal, fire irons and of course weathering. I copied a colour picture of a Black 5 I had, while not a Compound, was the everyday well worked engine, not too clean, or too dirty.... just right! Any tips and advice will be much appreciated

According to Hornby's latest newsletter, the pre production samples of Cock of the North will be on display at the Perth show June 29 & 30.