Bucoops

I'll be happy if - It looks about right - the 9th wheel is obviously a fundamental part of the car but to make it actually be in contact with the rail is asking too much when curves on model track are significantly sharper than real life. The teak effect is also a big consideration. It has crossed my mind that as this is a unique item - in theory the actual wood grain needs to be replicated. Just look at the photos Bill has posted at the top of page 7 - very distinctive grain. But then are the panels that are on the body now the same ones as 1938 (I'm going to keep quoting that year as that's the version I have ordered). Yet I think that may also be asking too much? Hopefully not but I won't let it disappoint me. Individual detail items such as steps etc. should be straightforward to get right. It's reasonably robust. My fear with a lot of finely detailed models is they are easily vulnerable to damage. As careful as you are, one little knock can cause all sorts of mischief. It's successful - it's clear a LOT of work has gone into this project. I really hope it's a great success and spurs on further similar projects. Suggestion for next project - what were the actual coaches behind the dynamometer car for the record run?

I'm expecting when it reaches a scale 126MPH it triggers a big end overheat for maximum realism. Or alternatively when it hits 88 MPH it whizzes back to 1938.

Funny you should say that - all I have is FS and a Disney train.

What it should convince you is that whenever someone says start with an inside cylinder loco - do it! There was no decision to do LNER - the rest are insignificant

A small but significant (for me!) bit of progress. I found some fantastic pictures of a 7mm A3 here - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6510-finney-a3-spearmint/page-2 - really hoping that Christian one day finishes documenting the build as the quality is fantastic. So I've now drilled through the centre of the valve case and passed the valve rod into them. And now the union links are connected to the crossheads. So for the motion, all that's left is the return crank then the reverse gubbins.

Are the footsteps wrong? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_09_2017/post-31247-0-46590600-1505744878.jpg The step goes over one axlebox and not the other - but going by the real thing it's the other axlebox that is covered?

Getting there - Still needs some tweaking and the footplate bows a little but getting a lot closer. AND just for good measure the wheels roll a lot smoother. Bonus lol

Looking good so far As you've seen from my thread I've been bouncing around a bit, including bits of a different kit! But \i have also been trying to concentrate on the chassis as everything has to sit on that.

I do get the shakes sometimes with the little bits! The toolmakers clamp is very versatile. I've even used it for bending to 90 degrees, as a surface to flatten bent bits etc. I just bought the cheapest I could find but yes I imagine postage to Brunei can be a bit of a hinderance.

Hmm, oh to still have access to a surface grinder. Would have made the next job easy. The top of the cylinders need to be flush with the footplate valance. On the real thing it looks like the valve tuck behind the valance, on the model the valance is so thick that's not going to happen. I *think* I will remove the top of the valves so they are level with the top of the cylinders. I don't think I will be able to thin the valance sufficienly unfortunately. Might have to find my dremel. This should test the quality of my soldering!

Whatever I can find! By far the most useful is a toolmakers clamp. Similar to this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Proops-1-x-2-Toolmakers-Clamp-M0210-/352004246679 Masking tape as well gets used a lot. For the splashers I taped the clamp to my heatproof board, opened the jaws enough to use as a backstop for the curved splasher tops when sat on their side, then slid the splasher side into place and held it there with a small piece of tape. Then splashed some flux on and with a very hot iron (400c) gently poked at it with the solder on the tip of the iron. A couple I had to do a couple of times. For other bits I've used fingernails, the opposite end of the flux brush, scrwedrivers, pliers, whatever.Needle files are quite good as they also grip a little bit. Hope that gives some ideas? Yours is 7mm? So some of the bits a little bigger than 4mm - but no doubt still some fiddly stuff!

Had a week off work but back this week. Brass arrived so have fitted a piece to screw the motion bracket to. Still not really worked out how to fix the loose bits - mainly really not sure what to do with this bit as it doesn't apparently fit anywhere. Looking at pictures it just dissapears into the gloom... So back to the superstructure - and got some fiddly bits done, in this case the splashers. They still need trimming to size. Pleased with myself that I remembered to ensure there was a left and right of the front ones!

That's not teak, that's wartime battleship grey

I have struggled with communication with Markits - initially very helpful with emails but then when I wanted to order it all went quiet. Got there eventually though.

Markits supply whatever axle you want

Fireman must be knackered!

Other side now on - again pretty happy with the soldering. The sides aren't *quite* flat and one of them peeps over the front by about half it's thickness. Clamped it and re-heated it, but still ever so slightly proud. I think it will do though, it really is tiny. For grins I put the footplate, boiler and cab together - looks the part I think? Haven't touched the footplate in a while - and it would seem the no clean flux isn't - it's gone a bit green in places! Cleaned that off now.

While waiting for the chunk of brass strip, I've started on the cab. Ran out of time to put the other side on (had to do some work, how rude!). Quite happy with the soldering on this so far - very little leakage through to the outside.

Not much to report - have re-done the expansion link to eccentric rod joints but to get any further I think I need to mount the bracket to the frames. And I need a chunk of brass for that and I don't have one suitable So more shopping!

As a little break from the motion conundrum I knocked up a pair of Gresley bogies using MJT kits. Went for compensated ones but not sure I really need them. Bit fiddly, and managed to lean the body of the iron on one of the white metal castings which blobbed it a bit when re-doing some of the brass soldering but once painted it won't be immediately obvious. I have some old kirk kits somewhere these would work on. Going to have another look at the A1 again now edit: just noticed from the pic it looks like you can see the brass frame past the sides - side on you can't. Possibly should have cleaned the castings up a bit better though, although again it's much less obvious side on.

I've watched a couple of your videos (building a gearbox and the first A1 installment). Quite interesting

Yes their move to do that has upset a LOT of people - wouldn't surprise me if they don't survive it. Bizzare decision!

Any more updates?

Struggling a bit with this valve gear - think I need some decent prototype photos (probably got something somewhere!). The instructions say the expansion link is outside the eccentric rod. But I'm thinking that's wrong? The plan sort of shows it inside. I've done it outside as per the wording (red circle). Best pic I can find is of the Hattons O gauge 3D printed one - http://hattonsimages.blob.core.windows.net/mediaimages/A3_3D_03.jpg which clearly shows it outside. The other end (yellow circle) also doesn't clear the nut for the crank pin - assuming it's similar to a V2 it needs to be cranked outwards? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/22614-sjt-1270jpg Does anyone have a decent closeup of this part? And just for good measure I read last night that using un-insulated wheels (on one side only of course) isn't compatible with DCC - whilst I don't know if I'll ever use DCC I want to be "ready" so at some point will have to buy 3 wheels...

Hi John, I'm still very much a novice - this being my first kit for about 15 years and the only previous ones I did were a J70 that used a motor bogie, and a J50 that was a simple 0-6-0 with no valve gear! However - I've chosen to make mine rigid as the axles are rigid too. If the chassis is compensated then I think the rods should be articulated.