Bucoops

Hi All, quick question - any reason why you can't use a smaller tanked cleaner and use it to clean one end then the other? Or does the piece have to be totally immersed? Thanks

I think i'd prefer to err on the side of caution and try and stick with insulated wheels throughout. Markits are doing their best to prevent this though, still waiting for a response several weeks later... I have certainly given myself a baptism of fire with this kit!

Yes it's both DC and DCC - I confused myself so it's only fair I confused everyone else as well

Apologies - I re-read where I got it from (which was a DCC based thread) - it's ANY model with a live chassis and metal buffers/couplings. If one is connected to one rail, and touches another that is connected to the other rail - sparks.

Lost a bit of momentum on this one. Still struggling with the valve gear so have returned to the body for a bit, starting with soldering the splashers on and doing a bit of cleanup. Got to probably trim some bits out of the boiler to make it fit.

I do like the kirk kits - there's a lot of choice. I built a few many years ago and got some good results. I prefer the idea of etched kits but haven't tried one yet. Would really like to see the range available again.

It's silly money for an incomplete - which make me think it's not been read properly. Yes it's less than buying metal parts for the same thing - but then you get much better quality parts

There's definitely demand for at least the kirk kits - they rarely go for less than £20 on ebay and sometimes go for over £30. Then there's the strange ones - either people are getting carried away or they've not looked at the pictures of this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OO-Gauge-Model-Coach-Ian-Kirk-8813-L-N-E-R-Buffet-Car-Kit/282677938368 No sides?

Wow just found this thread. I inadvertently ordered a few kirk coach kits from coopercraft a little while back - google took me straight to the page for it rather than to the home page which has the warning about his "machine". So I paid up £60 and waited. And waited. And called, got told machine not working with no known repair date. So I asked for a refund. And waited. on the 5th request I asked him to do it there and then on the phone, and he did. This was on Monday - and it's showing in my account. Such a shame that he has been doing this to people, good luck to others trying to get their money back.

Been rather busy, so not really achieved anything. Think I still need to drop the cylinders slightly, but it's starting to get a bit close to cutting all the way through the frames. Probably time to remove some from the cylinders...

Little bit more progress, I've dropped the motion bracket down a bit, but the cylinders need to also move down a touch too (I was half expecting it as the piston rod was slightly above the axle centreline and it looks like it should be inline.

I'll be happy if - It looks about right - the 9th wheel is obviously a fundamental part of the car but to make it actually be in contact with the rail is asking too much when curves on model track are significantly sharper than real life. The teak effect is also a big consideration. It has crossed my mind that as this is a unique item - in theory the actual wood grain needs to be replicated. Just look at the photos Bill has posted at the top of page 7 - very distinctive grain. But then are the panels that are on the body now the same ones as 1938 (I'm going to keep quoting that year as that's the version I have ordered). Yet I think that may also be asking too much? Hopefully not but I won't let it disappoint me. Individual detail items such as steps etc. should be straightforward to get right. It's reasonably robust. My fear with a lot of finely detailed models is they are easily vulnerable to damage. As careful as you are, one little knock can cause all sorts of mischief. It's successful - it's clear a LOT of work has gone into this project. I really hope it's a great success and spurs on further similar projects. Suggestion for next project - what were the actual coaches behind the dynamometer car for the record run?

I'm expecting when it reaches a scale 126MPH it triggers a big end overheat for maximum realism. Or alternatively when it hits 88 MPH it whizzes back to 1938.

Funny you should say that - all I have is FS and a Disney train.

What it should convince you is that whenever someone says start with an inside cylinder loco - do it! There was no decision to do LNER - the rest are insignificant

A small but significant (for me!) bit of progress. I found some fantastic pictures of a 7mm A3 here - http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/6510-finney-a3-spearmint/page-2 - really hoping that Christian one day finishes documenting the build as the quality is fantastic. So I've now drilled through the centre of the valve case and passed the valve rod into them. And now the union links are connected to the crossheads. So for the motion, all that's left is the return crank then the reverse gubbins.

Are the footsteps wrong? http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_09_2017/post-31247-0-46590600-1505744878.jpg The step goes over one axlebox and not the other - but going by the real thing it's the other axlebox that is covered?

Getting there - Still needs some tweaking and the footplate bows a little but getting a lot closer. AND just for good measure the wheels roll a lot smoother. Bonus lol

Looking good so far As you've seen from my thread I've been bouncing around a bit, including bits of a different kit! But \i have also been trying to concentrate on the chassis as everything has to sit on that.

I do get the shakes sometimes with the little bits! The toolmakers clamp is very versatile. I've even used it for bending to 90 degrees, as a surface to flatten bent bits etc. I just bought the cheapest I could find but yes I imagine postage to Brunei can be a bit of a hinderance.

Hmm, oh to still have access to a surface grinder. Would have made the next job easy. The top of the cylinders need to be flush with the footplate valance. On the real thing it looks like the valve tuck behind the valance, on the model the valance is so thick that's not going to happen. I *think* I will remove the top of the valves so they are level with the top of the cylinders. I don't think I will be able to thin the valance sufficienly unfortunately. Might have to find my dremel. This should test the quality of my soldering!

Whatever I can find! By far the most useful is a toolmakers clamp. Similar to this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Proops-1-x-2-Toolmakers-Clamp-M0210-/352004246679 Masking tape as well gets used a lot. For the splashers I taped the clamp to my heatproof board, opened the jaws enough to use as a backstop for the curved splasher tops when sat on their side, then slid the splasher side into place and held it there with a small piece of tape. Then splashed some flux on and with a very hot iron (400c) gently poked at it with the solder on the tip of the iron. A couple I had to do a couple of times. For other bits I've used fingernails, the opposite end of the flux brush, scrwedrivers, pliers, whatever.Needle files are quite good as they also grip a little bit. Hope that gives some ideas? Yours is 7mm? So some of the bits a little bigger than 4mm - but no doubt still some fiddly stuff!

Had a week off work but back this week. Brass arrived so have fitted a piece to screw the motion bracket to. Still not really worked out how to fix the loose bits - mainly really not sure what to do with this bit as it doesn't apparently fit anywhere. Looking at pictures it just dissapears into the gloom... So back to the superstructure - and got some fiddly bits done, in this case the splashers. They still need trimming to size. Pleased with myself that I remembered to ensure there was a left and right of the front ones!

That's not teak, that's wartime battleship grey

I have struggled with communication with Markits - initially very helpful with emails but then when I wanted to order it all went quiet. Got there eventually though.