matto21

Thanks so much for that. Where the wires split to go two ways (technical term), how do I do that?

Before I start, I need to point out that I have absolutely no clue about wiring/electrics! Any layout I've built in the past has been planned around having one source of power and all sidings and turnouts designed to work with this. If I was to build a layout similar to the plan below, how would I need to wire it? I have a Gaugemaster single track controller - would this work or not? I assume this type of plan would need two power inputs - if so, how would I set this up to work with my controller? As mentioned at the start, wiring totally confused me so any simple advice will be welcome! Thanks Matt

And a couple of hours later...

First post on this thread for the best part of five years! Been working on this Parkside CCT Parcel Van. First time around I made a particularly dodgy job of attaching the solebars to the floor - leaving the axle boxes splayed out on one side. I decided to remove them and use some plastic card to space the solebars equally. Hope you like my bling cutting mat!

Brilliant as always.

Sorry for the highjack, but the "Underground Ernie" motor the Captain refers to now lives in my own version of his Knightwing Critter!

Thank you very much for the replies, much appreciated. Phil - totally love it!

Hey all, I've been out of railway modelling for a long time now. Narrow gauge has always been a interest I've had on the back-burner. I recently came across Smallbrook Studios online. Does anyone have any experience with building their kits?

Looks excellent, especially the track/ballasting and weeds etc! Really inspirational

This layout is awesome! I love it!

Thanks for the suggetions and advice, much appreciated! Does Modelstrip affect glue - i.e will parts that have been superglued to the loco body [fan grilles etc] be affected?

I bought a tub of Modelstrip today as I want to remove a particularly poor job I've made of spraying some acrylic primer on a loco body [Lima Class 31 if you're interested ]. I know there are instructions on the side of the tub, and I have read them, but it's not something I've ever used before. Are there any hints, tips, advice or definate no-no's that I should be aware of when using this stuff to strip paint? Ok, what I really want to to ask is: "Are there any experienced strippers who can offer me advice???!!!!" Thanks Matt

That Class 47 bogie looks superb, well worth the effort and only 3 more to do... The pipework is excellent!

Ah, yes - that should be a cracker! Have fun with it and make sure you post some pics when you're done. I'm working on the Tamiya Beaufighter at the moment, after the Mustang, it seems HUGE!

Thanks! Sorry, my mistake - I've just noticed your earlier post where you say it's the Hasegawa kit. Which Tamiya kit have you bought [or thinking of buying - they're superb kits]. I've never seen the Testors model. Did you spray the silver? That's one of the reasons I chose the RAF version, I don't think I could do an aluminium finish!

It's a great kit isn't it Barry - which other version have you bought? Here's 2 more pics of mine, hope no-one minds me posting them, this is about the only modelling I'm able to do at the moment...

Hi, Here's my recently completed 1:48 RAF Mustang.

Spot the difference from the pic above....ok the background colour is different but also the underframe has been painted and weathered. Still needs couplings to complete...

Sorry for posting another photo of a half finished wagon, but this is all I have to show for the last two months of modelling - to get this far is an achievement!

The signal box looks superb! As a building that I'm relatively familiar with I'd say you've captured it perfectly.

I've made a little bit of progress with the Class 31. Thanks to Tom and James' suggestions, Hornby Class 50 buffers have been obtained and fitted along with some Shawplan backplates - comparing them to the Markits buffers I was going to use, I think the Hornby ones were the right choice so thanks again. The headlights have also now been attached to the cab fronts. Josh, the 'rusting' on the vans was done using liquid mask applied with a piece of sponge...

Thanks chaps, I'll bear the Hornby Class 50 buffers in mind then.

A small update. The 31 now has a new roof grill courtesy of Extreme Etchings and both cab front have been completed. The buffer shown here is from Markits - I can't decide if it is suitable or not. Can anyone advise or suggest a suitable alternative if not?