Nigelcliffe

No, its whole Prodigy system for the "sniffer" - just an option which is cheaper and available now. There are a lot of handsets that could connect to the Z21, but not Prodigy ones. Handset list would include: Lenz, ZTC (with some wiring faff on connectors), Roco, Digitrax, Uhlenbrock, Fleischmann, and others.

You could pull the Gaugemaster out of the store, connect the Prodigy track output to the "sniffer" port on the Z21, and thus use the Prodigy handsets for control knob control with the Z21 sending instructions to the track. There are also ways to add a £20-ish control knob to Android Phones, if using the EngineDriver App for loco control. That does require running JMRI on another computing device. I'm not aware of the control knobs working with the Roco App. - Nigel

I think by the time the Kinesis is available to buy, the Uhlenbrock DaisyII WLan will also be available. That's listing at Euro330 in various EU-land retailers, so expect it to be £330 in the UK. The DaisyII is a well designed handset. Uhlenbrock have RailCom and LocoNet. And support in numerous computer control packages. That's a lot of boxes ticked...

The MiniPanel is an "Input" device, so it cannot output to LEDs. You can use the MiniPanel with toggle or rotary switches (requires two MiniPanel inputs per switch, one for each direction of the turnout), and those switches would give indication of direction. If wedded to momentary switches and LEDs, then you need an output device on the panel. The simplest may be an accessory decoder, and cheapest simplest might be an Arduino based accessory decoder. It is also possible to use an NCE AUI device for output, but I think its harder work than accessory decoder. As the Yarmorc 8044 appears to be an accessory decoder to operate turnouts, with signals over DCC, I'd expect it to work correctly with an NCE system. You say "couple of PowerCabs and a 5Amp booster". I'm assuming you've got this arranged with ONE command station, and at least the second PowerCab operating as a "ProCab" throttle. Two PowerCab systems, each acting as Command Station is a rapid way to blow them up. (As with any DCC system, ONE Command Station only, unless you're into very advanced control hand-over arrangements). - Nigel

DT602 is usual US/Digitrax fixed button behaviour. Probably the most disappointing feature of an otherwise pretty good upgrade on the earlier DT400/500 types. As far as I know, the only US designed controller with control over button latching are the new TCS handsets - they pull their latching behaviour from the central system's database of locos.

Look at how different systems implement "recall" stacks. Many offer this, some implement the recall feature much better than others. Some offer control of stack-size, others have a fixed stack-size. Some users find a stack of 2 is ideal, others prefer slightly larger stacks of 4 or 6, depends on your operating requirements. All of this comes down to writing down your key requirements, and visiting a decent DCC dealer for a demonstration of different systems. What you "require" might be possible for a couple of hundred pounds, or it might be best part of a thousand. But knowing what you're trading off for those requirements will help the decisions.

I think you'll blow your budget. Doing it with "bits and pieces" - a wireless DT602 is the DT602DE, which is around £250/260. To that add a UR93 at £170. And then add a LocoNet compatible command station, cheapest option there might be a Digitrax Zephyr at £230. I think that lot comes to £650. Or as a "complete package" - the wireless "Evox" system from Digitrax, which is a DT602DE, UR93 and a command station box is about £620. There are other ways, but it would require two handsets, and commercial wireless systems are never going to be cheap. I strongly recommend getting a demonstration of a system before parting with that amount of money, being sure the control works for your way of driving things. - Nigel

It ought to. Roco list the earlier DT400/402 series as working with the Z21, and there's not much difference in what comes out the back of a DT602.

Handheld - Digitrax DT series throttles, two speed knobs. Desk based - ESU ECoS Just about any system which allows use of a smartphone as a throttle - either directly with maker equipment, or indirectly via a connection from JMRI software. The touch screens can usually be configured with multiple throttles on screen. Multiple handsets on most systems, one handset for one loco, other handset for second loco.

The only thing you can do with the EZ is reprogram decoder to a short address between 1 and 9. (Or put it in the waste bin and get a decent DCC system). Reports so far suggest a fault, but unclear if its a loco or a decoder fault. There are scenarios for both which fit the reported behaviour. - Nigel

If you want control via JMRI, and thus EngineDriver/WiThrottle, then its available: https://www.jmri.org/help/en/html/hardware/roco/z21/index.shtml I think it translates as this:

Yes it can, if the Tortoise is wired following the instructions in the Tortoise manual. Requires either: a) an AC power source, typically around 12-15v AC, and two rectifier diodes, that creates three wires: + volts, 0volts and -volts. b) a "stacked DC power source", typically achieved with two DC power bricks of about 9v DC, connected so the +volts of brick1 is connected to the 0volts of brick2. This also creates three wires which are: 0volts (relative to brick1), +volts (relative to brick1) and 2+volts (relative to brick1). Or re-labelling them relative to brick2, its -volts, 0volts and +volts, the same as you get in (a). The single pole change-over switch then selects between +volts and -volts, and the result goes to the motor. The other side of the motor connects to the 0volts. Once you get your head round this approach its very efficient in number of wires to baseboards, etc.. The return to the 0volts from all motors can be connected to each other, so its 1 return wire for entire layout and 1 wire out from each switch to each motor. - Nigel

No, its how the decoder is working (or not working). I don't know where Gaugemaster sourced their next18 decoders, but a quick look at their manual suggests its not a very advanced design. Different decoder and it will work - a J72 I did a couple of years ago would run for at least 2 feet without power. I used a Zimo decoder, which is what I guess was used in the Hornby magazine article.

Gaugemaster rebadge decoders designed by others. Currently they sell rebadged Digitrax decoders.

If you tried it, then you'd know whether the stay alive still works.

There's no issue with coreless motors and DCC on commonly available decoders. (There may have been an issue 25 years ago on a handful of very early decoder designs which used very low frequency control of motors. Which is just like analogue DC use where there are some DC controllers which use low frequency control which are bad for coreless motors....). As the model responds under programming, I'd look for things like: a) is the correct address being called up ? b) is the model in a decoder consist (CV19 set to anything other than zero) or does the control system have it in an internal consist (so routing instructions to another address). It doesn't sound like an electrical or motor issue if the model moves when programming is happening.

Most likely explanation is DC-running is enabled in the decoder (CV29). The decoder interprets this as DC, so engages full power in the DC direction. Turn off DC running to deal with the problem. https://www.2mm.org.uk/articles/cv29 calculator.htm

Manufacturers are under no obligation to stick to wiring colour conventions. So, if red is connected to negative, that doesn't matter to them.

Which I'll reproduce it below That's a long way from a set of instructions around how to configure a decoder. Its just a list of what's connected to what pin. An example of what I mean would be: DCC socket = Plux22 Wiring: speakers fitted (or not fitted) FoF - white headlight cab1 FoR - white headlight cab2 Aux1 - red taillight cab1 Aux2 - red taillight cab2 Aux3 - cab light cab1 Aux4 - cab light cab2 Aux5 - nighttime headlight cab1 Aux6 - nighttime headlight cab2 Aux 7 - fan motor stay-alive fitted (or not fitted). If a three-wire stay-alive, the which pin is the "control". And, if a 21pin decoder, clarity over which of the two different 21pin wiring standards are used (Marklin or NMRA) which changes which outputs are logic level or normal. It can get a little more complex if a maker has "suppression" features in a decoder, eg. some of Farish' recent Next18 decoders have: FoF - white lights at cab1, red at cab2 FoR - white lights at cab2, red at cab1 Aux1 - disconnect cab 2 Aux2 - disconnect cab 1 Which means using the Aux1 or Aux2 results in some lights going out if they are turned on. And controlling them all independently is difficult (some combinations impossible). And that's it. You're on your own to work out whether a given decoder has enough capabilities, and how to setup the CV's in the chosen decoder. - Nigel

Yep maybe it should indeed be, then when it's purchased there is something that at least alerts you to why, for instance, the tail lights won't stay on on your newly purchased model. Which manual or which maker would be handing out this advice ? Gaugemaster - advise you about an arbitrary decoder in an arbitrary model ? Loco maker - advise you about an arbitrary decoder controlled by an arbitrary DCC system ? Decoder maker - advise you about control with an arbitrary DCC system, when decoder has been configured (or partially configured) for an arbitrary model ? The various retailers where stuff was bought, probably not one retailer, and highly unlikely to be all done in a single purchase ? For any of the above, there are a few hundred DCC systems on sale, and goodness knows how many decoders (JMRI lists about 4,000 and their list is far from complete), and I've no idea how many different model loco makers. Yes, the F2 issue is sufficiently widespread that possibly loco makers offering "decoder fitted" ought to either avoid the F2 key, or make sure its used for things which are "momentary" in their use (typical US system design key behaviour). But not sure who else can advise beyond that detail. There is a case for model manufacturers being clearer about how their locos are wired to various plugs/sockets fitted inside locos. That's probably supplementary information beyond "DCC Ready, socket-X". That would make the fitting of decoder of choice a little simpler to understand. - Nigel

You can change anything on an ESU *if* you read the manual carefully. It has a very logical and consistent method. (I worked it out, and documented it, for the LokSound V4 before there were any manuals, by observing the outputs of the LokProgrammer software. ). With the LokProgrammer software (free, don't need the hardware), and the ESU decoder file (provided for this project), you can get a list of CV settings used in this decoder project. You say Zimo is easier - it is only if you know which of the numerous different approaches the decoder producer has used - there being three or four different ways to achieve function mapping. Changing things by DCC handset is tedious for both maker's decoders, requiring lots of button presses. A consequence of powerful and configurable decoders.

It's daft to pay twice. The "switch" in the DCC Concepts device will be electronic, or a relay operated by the electronics. It won't be a micro-switch with a movement to operate it. The only possible issue against using the DCC Concepts device might be "switch timing". Whether this matters depends on "which turnouts", "which maker" and how they are setup. For example, Peco N gauge electrofrogs (as supplied, un-modified) don't have any isolation between the blades and the frog. So, if switching the frog by an external switch (DCC Concepts in this case), it needs to change at the same time, precisely, as the blades move. If it is "late" or "early", a short circuit occurs as one power connection is via the blades, and a different one via the switch. Whereas many (most?) Peco OO electrofrogs have the blades separated from the frog, so there is no electrical connection to worry about, and no timing issue. - Nigel

The other factor is that after thinning the flange, the wheels still need to slide out on axles a little. That makes them a little wobbly in the bearing blocks. Look at whether turning the blocks round might help. Nigel

Bob, the wheels are a CNC machined brass, which is plated, with a cosmetic etched overlay for the spokes. So, relatively easy to machine. But machining will expose brass. If you restrict yourself to the rear of the flange, its probably OK, but the front-tread area is "go carefully" on appearance and tendency to pickup dirt from the track. If thinking of new steel tyres, they're an awkward size, fraction too small for one 2mm tyre, fraction too big for the other. Under the thick paint on the rods there may be a fairly nicely etched rod (the pre-production rods were really nice etches, not sure about production ones), so strip the paint off, then decide on how to thin them. Swapping the wheels out with the Association shop wheels and bearings for "Farish conversions" works except for one of the muffs. There is one which interferes with the idler gear, so the muff needs thinning down where it may touch the idler to incredibly thin (feels like wall thickness approaching 0.2mm....). Bear in mind that the idler can move on its axle depending on direction of motion, so watch for catching in all directions. There has been a suggestion of replacing all the gears to solve the clearance issue, but I've not looked into it, so it is currently "just a suggestion" I've got two converted to 2mm with a third waiting elsewhere to be converted. One is on a pre-production chassis, the others are production chassis. I've tried replacement 2mm wheels and turning down the N wheels. The 2mm wheels look nicer, but its a lot of work on the muff clearance issue. Decoder is a custom CT, with an integral small tantalum stay-alive. Out of the box it ought to run well (I spent long enough tweaking the prototype chassis+decoder, the production uses my settings), and will have the "uncoupler shuffle" on FunctionKey-2. Because of lack of spare parts, I'd suggest "lower your track voltage" should go higher up your to-do list. - Nigel

You can decypher the LokPilot settings for zero cost, just time. The LokProgrammer software is a free download from ESU. The locomotive file is in the link above. With the software you can load the locomotive file and see the settings deployed, function outputs used, etc.. If required, that can be exported as a CV list, for import into JMRI/DecoderPro (but that step probably unnecessary if trying to find out how it works, what output does what, etc..).