michl080

It is embarassing to admit, but it took me two weeks to detect the reason for a binding at one of my kits. One of the 6 driving wheels had a slightly different diameter, a different nmber of spokes and a different throw. I have no idea how this can be undetected for such a long time

Worth checking?

Michael

On 05/08/2021 at 21:07, silverlink said:

Ronseal Acrylic Diamond Hard,

Used it for years, covers well only needs a few minutes between coats and best of all really easy to clean your airbrush after use (just needs water) The Matt when sprayed is very slightly a sheen finish, I always add just a little drop of water to aid spraying.

Also available in Gloss and Satin.

Silverlink

I know it is widely recommended, so  ordered a can. Unfortunately, it came all off after being masked with the yellow Tamiya masking tape. Big disaster!!

Michael

Hi,

a lot of correct information.

I have two additional comments:

The simplified "Kriegslokomotiven" 42 and 52 were built with a planned life span of 15 years. That was the easiest way to reach the reduction in material and labor. Isn't this a strange decision to loose a whole fleet of engines just after the planned capture of Europe?

The class 50 was the only tender engine with the same max speed of 80km/h forward and backward. This means that it could be used on branch lines without turntables at the terminal stations.

Michal

Looks great!

I would keep an eye on the surfaces for the next couple of days/weeks to make sure that all active Evapo-rust has been removed. Black spots and/or slight rust would indicate that there is still something going on. The oil you put on the surfaces has a certain capability to compensate an acidic environment, but you surely do not want to take any risk.

Michael

On 01/07/2021 at 18:05, snitzl said:

Hi Michael, If that's the case, then I will trust your word and try Phosphoric Acid out on a test piece some time in the near future ( But not on the BCA ).

Pete,

You saw my example above. I didn't trust the reports either. But the result was convincing, so I tried it on other examples and it worked to my satisfaction. Nevertheless, it is always a good idea to try some test pieces first.

Michael

Pete,

the process is not exactly removing material from the surface.  The reaction converts ironoxide to iron phosphate. Iron phosphate is commonly used to protect steel surfaces and prepare surfaces for painting. Converting ironoxide to any other iron compound will obviously always attack the surface that has already been attacked by oxygen. The iron phosphate layer thickness is in the µm region. As far as I am aware there is no process that would reconvert iron oxide to iron.

Michael

This is what I got with 20% phosphoric acid. I was simply using a brush.

one side untreated

the other side and after treatment

I flushed the surface with water, dired it with a paper towel and put on some oiled to avoid new rust.

The whole procedure was about 6 month ago, so it seems to be stable.

Nice and cheap!

Michael

These kits are the best! I have build 4 of them and have two more on the shelf.

The spring assembly is easy once you understand the concept.

As far as I am concerned, the most prototypical kits available. The same quality as the Martin Finney loco kits.

I hope David forgave me that I built one of his diag 2102 kits with wooden planks. :-)

Michael

hi there, AK Ultra-matte varnish (AK183) is the mattest one I ever used. It is acryl-based and is too matt for weathered scale models. It appears more like a mineral surface. The right material if you want it VERY matt.

Michael

Beauty certainly is in the eye of the beholder.

What about this one?

(C) Wikipedia

Michael

9 hours ago, niteshadex said:

So I had an XRF test done on a piece of white metal from a Wizard Models wagon kit (my favorite quality white metal) to see what exactly it’s made of, the results show 66.7% lead + 33.3% tin.

 

I was excited to see how basic the alloy was. It’s basically 2 parts lead to 1 part tin. I have plenty of lead fishing sinkers. I melted them down, and mixed 2 pounds of them with 1 pound of tin.

 

After pouring the mixed alloy into the moulds, the end result is not what I expected. It still doesn’t have that white metal look and feel to it. It’s more of a shiny grey than a matte white.

 

silly question: is the XRF mass based? or is it eventually volume based?

Nevertheless, I am wondering about the relation. Solder is roughly 60% tin and only about 40% lead which will form a eutectic system with a low melting point. Your alloy will not solidify at one temperature, it will solidify in the whole temperature range between 327°C (lead) down to 232°C (tin). This will probably be the reason for the matte and grey appearance.

just an idea,

Michael

That will be a Gauge 0 machine. It is based on an ancient kit that was available some 30 years ago. Sadly, kit building is very uncommon in German Gauge 0. There are quite a lot of RTR locos and wagons, so no need to build anything from a kit. If you are looking for H0 parts, I would recommend Weinert , they have a very nice online catalogue. Gauge 0 is a lot more complicated, you might try MM Crottendorf or DCC4you .

cheers,

Michael

I can recommend the EK-Verlag books. Although I don't have the BR86 book in particular, many of these books have detailled drawings of components as well as GAs.

The BR86 book is currently out of print and quite expensive second hand. Check at the electrobay.

I am not aware of a comparable BR91 book.

Alternatively, you can get these drawing set: https://www.ebay.de/itm/Die-Baureihe-86-Das-Arbeitstier-fur-Nebenstrecken-A-Knipping-EK-verlag/265108612795?hash=item3db9b466bb:g:iJ8AAOSwEpJgZdi-#shpCntId

I am using one set to build a BR78 in the moment. They are directly scanned from original drawings and hence very detailled. However, sometimes, the condition of the original drawing was very poor, so it can happen that details are not readable.

Harry has a lot more drawings, including the T9. You need to contact him directly.

Michael

I don't anneal my boilers before rolling, but I recommend to roll them packed between two layers of cardboard. The rollers should grab the cardboard first, the metal should follow some 10mm behind. This helps to avoid flat zones at the first 10mm of the rolling.

Michael

On 11/02/2021 at 19:11, Allegheny1600 said:

Note to Pedants: Yes, this relates to the Federal Republic of Germany rather than today’s country but their lawyers must have been better than me so until I can attain a greater understanding, this is it.

all of your posting is highly appreciated, but formally, Germany is sitll the FRG, because the reunification didn't result in a new republic. The GDR did join ('beitreten') the FRG, so the resulting nation is the FRG. The united Germany still has the old constitution of the FRG.

Doesn't make much of a difference anyway :-)

Michael

I am using three Airbrushes for different jobs. A Iwata HP-B for detail work and weathering, an Iwata HP-C for larger paint jobs like wagons and small locos, and a HP-BCS for large paint jobs that require a lot of paint like coaches and large locos. The HP-B and -C- are gravity fed, the -BCS is a suction type. All are perfect for their job.

You may think that this is overkill, but I bought them all used at an auction site. They were all in the 30-60€ range. Simply assume the worst case that is would be required to replace nozzle, needle and seals, take your budget and remove the cost for eventually required spare parts and you know what they may cost.

Michael

These are a couple of question.

German overhead lines have quite long segments between the tension assemblies, I think probably 1000m or so, so if your main line is just a small cut of a main line, it is not very likely that it would show the TA. But then, if it is for practicing, you could do. The crossover is quite complicated and is about three segment long, so you wouldn't see a small portion in your layout. I am sure you are aware the SBB has a completely different OHL system compared to DB.

Michael

2 hours ago, sulzer71 said:

Thanks Mick , yes , I'm going to turn a spare room into my modelling room with a purpose built work bench right under the window so feeding the extraction hose out of the window won't be a problem

Good plan. If you feed the fume out of the room, you can also remove the filter from the cabinet. The efficiency will be much better and you won't have to replace filter mats.

Michael

You can't go wrong with an Iwata airbrush! Fantastic quality.

Consider a small cheap ultrasonic bath for cleaning. They are available for 35-30GBP and simplify cleaning immensly.

Michael

My mail from earlier today did contain a link embedded in the text. (underlined portion). You could just click on the word "Kent".

here it is again:

https://www.kenteurope.com/en/nc/product/detail//etch-primer-p20887537be-nl-1/show/

Michael

4 hours ago, micklner said:

The only "Kent"  listed in the UK , is a paint supplier not a maker.

Are you sure?

It seems to be a European company with various offices, but it is not clear where the actual paint is coming from. The web-sites imprint refers to a UK-based company, so whereever they mix the paint, the headquarter of Kent seems to be in Dunfermline, Fife.

Anyway, I was referring to this product because you have asked for it. It's not important for me where they mix their paint.

Michael

3 hours ago, micklner said:

Which one ?????

I didn't actually mention the product because I live in Germany and what we can get in our shops isn't available in the UK and vice versa. However, I rechecked and noticed that my etch primer is actually a UK product.

I am using a "Kent" rattle can etch primer and like it a lot. I have also used the Zero paints 2k etch primer in my airbrush, but the rattle can gives easily a light fine spray where the zero paint brand needs a precisely adjusted viscosity to provide a first class result. Kent isn't easy to get here, so I ordered a rattle can of U-Pol etch #8 for a heavy price here in Germany.

Michael

I have been testing many primers in the last couple of years. I learned that there is no universal "best" primer, it very much depends on the base material. Plastic, white metal, nickel silver are quite simple to handle, brass and resin are not. For the latter, an etch primer is mandatory.

My personal test to check feasibility of a primer is the fingernail scratch test. A good primer cannot be scratched off with a fingernail whatever force you apply. In my experience, this only works with etch primer on brass and resin.

Michael

14 hours ago, creweboy said:

I'm looking for Roco BR 01 Witte style smoke deflectors, as an alternative can l use the smoke deflectors from BR 44 41 or 50?

 

And can anyone recommend a spares supplier that won't charge £17 postage! 

they are actually the same at all four classes.

I don't have a supplier asking for less than 17 gbp, but you can get first class etched deflectors from Weinert for that shipping rate. That would certainly improve the appearence of the engine.

weinert shop

Michael

All the mentioned brands a making good quality, but if you ask for the best quality, Brawa, ESU and Lenz should be mentioned as well. Sadly, Lenz is focussing on 0 gauge now, but their Köf II was a milestone. This little loco reaches high prices even in used condition.

Michael