michl080

I have had a lot of trouble with Tillig turnouts. The problem is related to the fact that the blades are so thin that they start to twist because the tiebar pushing the switch rail out of shape. The original Tillig plastic tiebar simulates the pullrod, but it leaves a little distance between the tiebar and the  switch rail. I have been using wooden coffee stirrers that were carved in shape. It is important to keep the original stirrer thickness below the swithc rails.

Furthermore, I found that only a parallel movement of the throw mechanism works. I did never succeed with mechanisms like servos or tortoise. The original Tillig mechanism has actually a parallel motion.

Michael

Roger,

I think John recommendation is universally correct. A glossy base makes the slider carrier films almost invisible. If this is acrylic or enamel makes no big difference.

I am using acrylics only. I cover the model with glossy varnish, then apply the decals. If necessary, a treatment with Microset/Microsol and then a final cover with satin varnish.

Michael

2 hours ago, ejstubbs said:

 

AKA a "jeweller's peg" - useful to know if you want to search for one online.  Brenton, the silversmith on The Repair Shop, is often shown using one.  Can be acquired fairly cheaply if you shop around.

If you want to use it for brass, I recommend to drill a 3mm hole into one of the wings. Thread the saw blad through the hole or use the saw to make a narrow slot to the hole. The advantage of the small hole is that thin brass doesn't bounce while sawing.

If the saw isn't moving smoothly, your blades are too coarse. As a rule of thumb, at least three teeth should be in contact with the brass sheet.

and most importantly: cheap saw blades are a pain in ....

For straight cuts in brass, use an OLFA PC-L scorer and a steel ruler.

Michael

Same here,

20% works perfect, but the fumes are pretty bad. 10% might be better in this aspect. I have been experimenting with surfactants, but couldn't find anything that improves wetting significantly.

Michael

There is a nice 7mm BG kit from David Parkins and there is a very nice build description from Simon Varnam . I am currently building this kit and its detail is nerve-wracking.

The description shows many of the details named in this thread.

Michael

Interesting to see that the commander of the German Luftwaffe was so scared of allied fighters that his train was equipped with anti aircraft guns.

If I am not completely mistaken, his private coach can be seen at the "Deutsches Dampflok Museum" in Neuenmarkt-Wirsberg. It has even a bath tub installed. (XL-Size of course). After the end of WW2, the first German chancellor Konrad Adenauer was using the same coach. He was a very parsimonious guy, quite unlike Hermann Göring.

Michael

Hi,

I checked my files. My Brawa kwStEb AD class seems to have a 8 pin connector and my HH class has a 21 pin connector. But all of them (if they are designed within the last 20 years) have some kind of socket.

Michael

On 04/05/2020 at 10:47, MrWolf said:

The house is decorated in the eclectic style of model shop / art gallery / Hitler's bunker.

cosy ...

Michael

There IS a up- and down system in Germany. This is based on the kilometer panels along the lines. The lines start at a major stations of the system, typically where the local directorate is located.

So increasing kilometer numbering means up and vice versa.

Michael

1 hour ago, T30RRA said:

would you mind if I hijack this thread for the build? It won't be immediate though.

absolutely not, go ahead...

Michael

10 hours ago, brossard said:

MMP kits are excellent no question.  They do require expertise though.

My first 7mm kit was a MMP Catfish. I had some experience with white metal H0 kits, but no brass experience.  It helps to have experience, but it is also a great way to gain experience. Although the MMP kits are very detailed and have a lot of tiny bits and pieces, they fit perfectly, so that I know that if things don't line up correctly, it isn't the kits fault, it is my mistake.

Many people say that the connoiseur kits are best for beginners, I think that a reasonably cold-blooded newby can build a MMP kit. (maybe not the MK1 - passenger coaches, however) :-)

Michael

Every tool/material-combination has a recommended cutting speed (named Tangential velocity in the link below). For carbide/brass this should be in the range of 100-150m/sec. Slower speed increases problems with chips forming and chips sticking in the drill flutes.

The smaller a drill bit is, the faster will it need to rotate to reach the recommended speed. See the link below for more info.

http://sfi-toodle.com/metal-cutting-calculations/

A HSS drill of 1mm dia should rotate with 20000rpm, a carbide drill even with 55000rpm.

Nevertheless, you are right, plastic requires low rpm to avoid melting.

Michael

On 01/05/2020 at 09:36, Enterprisingwestern said:

I use a lighting dimmer switch on mine (cue shouts of horror) which slows it down nicely for drilling plastic without melting.

good idea for plastic, but you need more a lot more rpm for brass. You better go with 20krpm for 1mm carbide drills.

Michael

20 hours ago, bantam61668 said:

[...] it comes from an argument with a railway journalist who accused me and some friends of been “jaded and fatuous” for preferring the loco hauled trains of Europe to the latest multiple units in the UK.

I get it. I am a native German speaker and whenever I read the title of this thread, it's like a punch in the gut. It sounds VERY negative.  btw., that journalist was a very biasses a**h**e.

Michael

I'd say that the folks in Sinsheim are not known  for historcal accuracy...

Michael

you really want to keep this name for the layout?

Michael

I had already a very nice proxxon IB/S drill, so I bought the MB200 drill stand. I must say that I am very impressed. The design is very rigid. I am drilling frequently 0.3mm holes with carbide drill bits. Although I wouldn't want to drill a 5mm hole with the IB/S.

I know that theTBM220 is a very good machine, but 8500rpm is not enough for sub 1mm holes.

Michael

Jim,

priming nickel silver is easy. Paint holds much better than on brass. But then, I assume, your kit has brass and nickel silver parts, so you should use etch primer on the brass parts. If you do so, why not painting everything with etch primer.

Michael

1 hour ago, Guy Rixon said:

. I don't have an ultrasonic bath, and am not convinced I need one. Well, I've never needed one before........

My ultrasonic bath were the best spent 30€...

Not only for cleaning the airbrush, but mainly to clean models before painting. After every soldering session, the whole kit goes in the US-bath to remove all dirt and flux.

Michael

4 hours ago, meil said:

When removing the needle then it should only be removed in the direction of the point and only replaced in the direction of the point.

That is a good idea, but it is not possible with all Iwata models. I can pull out the needle to the nozzle direction at my HP-B, but not at my HP-C.

Michael

Dave,

I assume but I am not sure if all Iwata guns have ptfe seals, but why would you want to use cellulose thinner to solve acrylic paint? Ethanol, isopropanol or acrylic thinner removes all dry paint quite well. Personally, I think it makes a bigger difference if you can use an ultrasonic bath to intensify the process.

Michael

If you really need a hundred of these things, find a local flat sheet metal company, preferably with laser cutting capabilities and show them what you need. I assume a hand sketch with dimension will be good enough  This seems to be a half hour CAD-Job, you might be positively surprised about the price for the project. Choosing raw aluminium rather than anodized will safe you another few pounds.

Michael

Bill,

I have an Brawa "Ad" engine and it shows the same behaviour as yours. Apparently, the tender is connected with a spring. I don't want to disassemble the connection, there are too many tiny parts that might break.

Sorry, no info about the Fc, I don't have one. However, my Hh engine 0-10-0 has a rigid, kinematic type of tender-loco connection.

stay safe,

Michael

Hi,

if you have a drill press and can fix you components tightly, you might try carbide drills. They last forever in my Proxxon drill press, but they break immediately if I try them hands free. No problem with the drills wandering. 0.3mm holes in cast brass parts are possible.

You can find tham at IBEy as PCB carbide micro drill bits either low quality from China of resharpened from local sources. PCB manufacturers use them in huge quantities and they are replaced after several resharpening cycles, because they get too short. They appear frequently at ebay.

Michael

Your pressure is pretty OK. depending on the application you may want to increase or decrease it a bit. If I am paining a 7mm loco with large areas, I increase the pressure to about 2 bar. If you want to do somedetail work, 1 bar may be a good idea.

I think that all paints should be set ti the same viscosity (like milk), so the pressure should be the same with any paint.

Michael