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RobMG

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Everything posted by RobMG

  1. It looks good, but I tried to to find these , and couldn't. I wonder if they are still available. I will search again. As for it not fitting the Hornby diameter, I really don't see that as a problem. Modifications can be done. Thanks for your Help Rob
  2. I am working on a Hornby class 25/2 doing as much as possible to improve details, Laserglaze, correct diameter buffers etc etc . However the fan grill is defeating me at the moment. I have an A! etched grill and fan, but to me it seems totally inaccurate. The diameter appears to be too large, and there is no flanged ring. So it would seem I have to attempt to modify it to make it look something like the prototype. I don't feel like doing this, so I think I will have to stick with the original Hornby grill. I might try to modify it if I could find a decent photo of a 25 roof, but I have searched for ages. The only picture I can find was taken from about a 100 yards away, and doesn't help at all. Also no drawing or dimensions can be found. Can anyone help with info please.. Rob
  3. I had to scrap, well put one side a Lima motor I couldn't get to run smoothly. I took it to pieces prepared to do a clean up job on the gears, but decided to run it without any gears to drive. It still sounded like a clapped out coffee grinder. So I removed the armature, and discovered the commutator had little bits of solder on it from when it was made. I very carefully cleaned and smoothed it. Put it back together, and it was still noisy, so I decided it was a lost cause. I have others that run really well, so I know they are basically decent motors....
  4. And I just a couple of weeks ago chucked out several SCART cables out because 'We don't need them anymore' grrrrr
  5. Your L1 looks really good. I'm impressed,
  6. The lima model is pretty good, I have removed the moulded handrails etc ,and fitted an etched fan grill, And some Heljan tanks/Battery boxes. It will be repainted in early green livery, and look good I hope. Also new wheels without traction tyres....
  7. I agree with the use of Dettol for paint stripping , but once the paint is stripped there will be a gungy residue. A wash with Methylated spirits will clean all that off. I stripped a Lima 33 recently and the paint was reluctant to come off . So I soaked it Dettol again but overnight instead of just an hour or so. It finally softened enough to move, then I washed it with meths. No damage to the plastic. Rob
  8. Well I have successfully solved the problem on several of my Dapol 6 wheel tanks by making sure there is enough vertical play on the centre (Dapol) wheels and of course the back to backs are correct. They all now run through large radius code 75 points with NO problems. So likewise if anybody is chucking out Dapol wheels because they think they don't work, chuck'em my way. because with a little adjustment here and there, they do work... Rob
  9. Just been reading this with interest. I have quite few Dapol 6 wheel milk tanks, all with original Dapol wheels. Just been checking to see why they a bit rough through points. I use Peco code 75 long points so the curves are not tight. The back to backs were out on the worst ones. Re setting those is big improvement, but the worst problem is that some tend to rock on the centre axle, Removing the centre wheels cures this totally. I now intend to find a way of overcoming this without chucking the wheels away , or blaming the wheel profile. It may be I will mount them slightly differently, but I will cure it. Anyone who bins Dapol wheels on sight, please don't. Parcel them up and post them to me, I will make them work. Rob
  10. I have just found out as I attempted to order some spares. Fortunately I only wanted them for stock. I had a load of class 33 spares just before Christmas. Good job I didn't wait or I might have given up the project. I will now second thoughts about any more Sulzer mods.. Rob
  11. I looked at the stays on the Prairie at the SVR not long ago and decided they were at least 2 1/2" inches. As usual of course I didn't have any means of measuring accurately, but that said I live only 8 miles from Bridgnorth, so will be going there again soon. Got some old magazines to donate to the cause... Rob
  12. The problem with Lima motor bogies apart from the ringfield motor , which can be either smooth and relatively quiet or very noisy, is the fact the axles are 2.5mm dia. So in order to fit different wheels which 2mm axles, we need either to make new shouldered ones , or sleeve the new ones to fit. This is the method I chose. I looked on ebay and found some 2.5mm od x 2mm id brass tube which does the job admirably. then we have the Lima gears to deal with. Contrary to some peoples belief that these are moulded as part of the wheel, they can in fact be removed, but you need some sort of press, because they do not separate easily. I used my lathe,but a drill press could be used with adaptors/spacers . Once the gear is removed you can cut off the bit that goes into the wheel, and run a 2.5mm drill through the gear wheel so it will fit onto the brass sleeve. I haven't got as far as fixing the gears to the new wheels, but have assembled it all loosely, and tested for running. It all works really well. More soon when finished. When the promised replacement wheelsets from Peters Spares appear, all will be much easier........ Rob
  13. Well Hugh ,You are in luck, I have a drawing . It only shows the right hand side, and top view of the RH half, but it is certainly better than nothing. There are also dimensions on it. I can copy it tonight or tomorrow when my good lady is here , and send it to you. If you can find a copy of Locomotives Illustrated number 23 on the Wainwright 4-4-0s there are a few good photos of the L1 showing both sides. PM me your address. Very pleased to help in any way I can. Rob PS There you go Hugh, you are now inundated with info. I had forgotten I'd already found a drawing last year.
  14. Will do, I will look right now. It seems to be a sad fact that 40 years ago when I was attempting the project it was much easier to find info. I could go to my local model railway shop (Eames in Reading ) and order a Skinley drawing of almost any loco I wanted to model. Now both the Model Shop and John Skinley have gone, it is next to impossible ! It's no problem to have a look now. Rob
  15. Just wading my way through the comments, but can't find any on this subject. Have people gone past bothering with modifying Lima stuff these days. Anyway never mind, I am working on the motor bogey today . Fitting new wheels, and a CD motor. I would love to post some photos. Rob
  16. It was many years ago when I started, but did not finish modifying a Triang L1. I didn't finish it because of turmoil in my life at the time. I passed the project on to my great friend Martin Brent who finished it. I don't have any photos, and sadly Martin died nearly 20 years ago of leukemia. I miss him to this day.. I think I might have a drawing somewhere, but not sure. If I can find it I will let you know.. I am sorry not to have been more help. Rob
  17. Graham, that is looking great, and it's quite a coincidence. The first thing I looked at was your post. It was way back last year when I looked for info for you. Well I am pleased to see how you have progressed, and will now look forward to finished pictures. I am working on a Southern region loco, but much later than yours, a Class 33 Crompton in early 60s livery. I haven't forsaken steam, but have always liked the Cromptons, especially as I had a really good cab ride in one years ago when I worked for BR. Rob
  18. Very recently I spotted a post from Peters Spares re the production of replacement traction tyre free wheels for certain Lima diesel locos . This had been posted early last year. So being interested I read further. I do understand that the lack of traction tyres will cause problems for those wishing to haul long trains, and I don't know what the answer is, but for me with a small branch line layout, they would be ok. I am part way through modifying a couple of locos, one being a class 33, and was struggling to decide the best way to replace the wheels. I thought yes this would be the answer, but alas they still are not available ! So I have decided to use Alan Gibson coach wheels. I will make sleeves to increase the axle size to 2.5mm and use the Lima gears which I have found can be pressed out of the original wheels, and re used . I know people say, why not just buy a Heljan or SWL loco, yes a sound enough idea, but for a couple of reasons..... The cost, and also , and very important to me, the satisfaction of the challenge. For me the Lima body mouldings are very good, and with other mods , handrails , windows etc, can be made to look very good. So there we are, I now have the wheels etc, and can go ahead with the work. Of course I must add that do have a lathe and the ability to use it, so it makes life a little easier for me. When however Peters Spares make their wheels available, I will definitely use them. Rob
  19. As I have just got some Alan Gibson coach wheels for my Lima 33 I will carry on and use those, but have another to do so will wait with baited breath.... Rob
  20. I have some LCUT kits to assemble, But can't comment on them yet, but they look good to me. Will report on them when I have built one. Rob
  21. Is there any sign of these wheels making an appearance soon ?????? I am working on a 47, and a 33 at present, and was looking into turning a set of originals to a more acceptable profile. If however the new wheels are due any time soon, I might just wait.. Rob
  22. I have had varying success with paint stripping plastic models. I stripped the paint a couple of Lima siphons using methylated spirits. All the paint in the most difficult corners washed off dead easily within 15 minutes, so I thought brilliant, I have found the answer. Not to be, a month later I tried to strip a Lima class 33 again using meths, but it wouldn't touch it, not even after prolonged soaking. Then I tried Dettol that sort of worked, but I had to leave it soaking overnight , and then I had to scrub it with a fairly stiff brush. It didn't all come off , but while the paint was still soft I washed it in meths again and most came off. I don't know why it works with some model and not others... Rob.
  23. The body is coming along well now, and my thoughts have now turned to wheels. I want to get rid of the traction tyred wheels and replace with plain ones. Of course the wheels with the tyres are the ones with the gears. How best to deal with those , I could look for some more Lima plain wheels, but are the gears re usable, or what ? If there is any turning to do I have a lathe. Rob
  24. Well done Darius, How did you do the lining, was it by hand with a bow pen, or transfers. I am interested to know, because I have some to do, and I have both bow pen and transfers at the ready. Just a bit daunted at the prospect at this moment. Yours looks perfectly straight..... Can I do it as well... gulp..... Rob
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