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TheCuckoo

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Blog Comments posted by TheCuckoo

  1.  

     

     

    Ha! Thanks Ray  :)

     

    Flights of fancy aside, this story made me wonder if there's an aspect of railway modelling that could maybe be developed more, namely modelling real historical events and everyday lineside practices. The Luton MRC did it with the Great Train Robbery, but there's much more there.

     

    It doesn't all have to be static either - it can be combined with running stock. For example, at some point I'd like to model the full flow of goods handling. Eg a goods train arriving, wagons being dispersed, complemented by cameo scenes that depict the main steps and staff roles in off-loading the goods, doing the paperwork, transferring the goods to horsedrawn vehicles, delivery, etc.

     

     

    I've had similar musings. I wonder if the techniques used in the "Pepper's ghost" illusion could be used? Perhaps for exhibition layouts only, but it may be possible to produce it on a smaller scale. It would be marvellous to see a train pull up at a platform and then have the 'ghosts' of the passengers and staff move about the platform and so on. The other alternative might be to use a looped video playing on a smartphone screen, which is then hidden inside a building so that the movement is visible through the windows? 

  2. That's ok Stefan, don't fret :)  I'm looking at 247 Developments website - sounds like they do custom plates but it's not entirely clear from the website. I'll give them a ring in the week.

     

    Next question:

    Do you think this would have been painted GWR green? To my untrained eye it looks very dark - although maybe the tank is a different shade of 'dark' than, say, the cylinder covers (which look very black) lol 

     

    Surely, once absorbed, the GWR would have painted her green?

  3. You're right - they should be useful, but I'm not sure I can justify a subscription to find out. The coronation, for example, isn't really of any interest to me, but as you say, the 28xx, CoT, and 45xx might be useful for bits (particularly the boiler and tender of the 28xx). CoT is perhaps less inviting because of the lack of a commercial chassis to go with it.   

  4. I tend to thin the varnish with water alone, and give several coats if required. My experience with retarder has always been problematical - my advice would be that 25% sounds like way too much. I use literally one or two drops at a time, but maybe different brands have different retardant effects.

  5. Hi Job,

     

    I like the definition in the skirt now. Light and shade is just what you want. I have found that Vellejo acrylic matt varnish is very good - as is all of their paints - and it doesn't disturb the paint underneath.

     

    This is a 25mm wargaming figure of mine and illustrates the highlight/shadow effect that I would be aiming at, though it is very difficult to do on small figures. The flesh on the figure has been finished with the Vallejo varnish.

     

    Pirate

  6. Hi Nick,

     

    tbh At the time I built her I was unaware that tank engines carried red frames, so she ended up in black though red would be lovely. Plus, try as I might, I never seem to get a pleasing result with Precision Indian Red.

     

    There is no lining on the cab sides, no. Should they be?

  7. So far, so good. What scale are you working in? 

     

    You might like to take a look at the Games Workshop range of paints, particularly the washes they make. They are designed for figure painting, and they really are good. You can almost get away with putting base coats on then applying a wash. Human nature is to concentrate on faces when looking at figures, so they can make or break a good miniature. Try a basecoat, a wash, then dry brushing a very delicate highlight on the top. Also consider 'blacklining' - this is a technique where you seperate out different areas of the model by a fine line of black. It's considered old fashioned by the figure-painting community, but personally I like it.

     

    ray

  8. IMG 0759smaller

    This a general view of the work. The chip is hidden under a wrapper of insulation tape. The Hornby chip will fit without any modification to the loco.

     

    IMG 0760smaller

    The motor end. You need to remove the tiny springs that touch the motor terminals, solder wires to the terminals and make sure that the bare wires do not short out anything. I used heat shrink and insulating tape.

     

    IMG 0762smaller

    Solving the split chassis problem. Loops of wire were soldered to the shortened ends of the chip wires. These could then be held in place by the plastic chassis studs. The sequence was then chassis half, 'black' loop, cardboard spacer, 'red' loop, chassis half. This assembly replaces the plastic washer that is normally present.
     
    Any questions, just ask. 

     

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