JustinDean

Hi Mark, the technique is: Rub along the length of the planks with a fibre pen to produce light scoring. Use the tip of a scalpel to very lightly produce some deeper scoring, again only running along the length of planks. A wash of black acrylic over everything. When dry some dabs of rust acrylic on bolt heads and other protruding metal parts. Dry brush some rust onto corner plates. Wash of underframe dirt acrylic on solebars, brake gear and axleboxes. Pick out some repaired planks in natural wood color. The acrylic I had was actually ‘stone’ but it was the best match for the photos to hand. Some darker greys were also used for a couple of planks. Once this was all absolutely dry (next day in this case) all the planks had Humbrol black powder worked in with a small make up brush. This was then partially removed with a cotton bud and is the point where you can decide just how heavy you’re going to have the weathering. Humbrol red oxide was very sparingly used on metal work and if too much ended up on the wagon this was again removed with a cotton bud. Spray the wagon to seal with a light misting of matt acrylic varnish. Use photos as reference! Jay

Ay up Nik… it’s terrible light in Cazz’s dining room so the colours in the photos look a bit off as you’ve noticed. Most of the lettering has received fibre pen treatment and some have seen the tip of a scalpel. They were treated in daylight but by the time I’d done it was dark hence the crappy lighting! Also no worries about being critical; I welcome it. We’re all here to learn! I had the same thought about those rear steps on the J94 at the time of painting, so I had a good search through photos to make sure. No doubt someone will find evidence of them painted red at some point! Jay

Lovely model - well done Rapido. I’ve started weathering my rake of seven: Jay

More wagon weathering and some limestone loads: I’ve decided to go for various intensities of weathering. A few different techniques have been used across all of these. Scoring, replacement planks and varying levels of powders. I have also come back to 68006 which has been weathered, crewed and received couplings. Along with weather boards for protecting the crew. Now ready for service at Middleton Top.

Thanks Martyn. I’m aiming for 1940ish to 1960’s so I can cover late LMS period and BR so there is potential for some more in this condition. I may have a bash later today so watch this space…. Jay

Sorry it didn’t register it was you that had posted there otherwise I would’ve tagged you. Just found the post again and read the discussion. There was more than one type of Derbyshire Stone wagon and I think the later grey ones with small lettering may match up to the one in the pit. I’ll check my laptop (where the photo collection is stashed) when I’m back in Derby. Jay

Is it one of yours Nik? I pulled it off aGoogle search!

Here’s the wagon referred to for those that haven’t seen it.

Now that would be fun to model!

This is the only wagon I’m going to wreck/weather so heavily. Stopping at this point and will attack it again Sunday.

Hence these running with the NLR tanks I’ve been building. A quick search around on the net brings up large lettered wagons in photos around 1950/51 but as you say, that lettering is remnants and barely perceptible. I’m toying with the idea of heavily distressing/weathering one of these to represent a late survivor. Jay

The J94 has now been numbered 68006. Crew, couplings and window boards to fit after weathering powders have been applied. I may have been a tad excited when Rapido announced the D1666 open. Pretty sure I ordered 6. There’s 7 here. These have had some dirty washes applied along with some rust picked out and will get some subtle powder treatment next. These will run with the NLR tanks on the layout, although I’d be interested to know how long the LMS livery lasted for into BR days. As much as I love kit building wagons, these RTR models are really excellent, and I need a lot of wagons to run Middleton Top. That’s how I’m justifying the dent to my bank balance anyway! Jay

A little bit of layout progress (better than no progress!). More heavy nuts to weigh the wood down. The DAS ground work is now advancing towards the engine shed. Work is intense this time of year so I’m only managing to grab a few hours per week. It’s also my missus 50th this weekend so doubtful I’ll be dirtying up that J94 also. I’ll leave you with a view of some tenders awaiting their onward journey having just been brought up the incline.

Hi Steve, My post on Oct 29th lists the changes and the photo from last Tuesday shows them clearly (all the bare metal parts). The RT Models detailing kit is the primary source of materials for the improvements. Their etch has a detailed set of instructions and I’d highly recommend it. If you’re specifically referring to changes on the chassis then you’re quite right and you wouldn’t find anything! I left this part alone in the end. Jay

I suspect the tip is knackered. Can’t you get a pack of new ones off eBay? Regarding irons I’m currently using a temperature controlled one and spent a fair few quid but before that I used an Antex iron for getting on 30 years with no issues. If you’re burning fingers tinning pieces get some ‘helping hands’ until you get more adept at doing it. Like a lot of things plenty of practice is in order. Jay

The J94 has been attacked by rattle cans this afternoon. More work will commence on this later on the week.

I never use an abrasive to clean a tip, just a wet sponge. Have you got another tip you can try?

A mixture of techniques. Some of it is made up from cast sections I bought off eBay. Some scribed DAS and some individual stones. There’s a lot of wall on Middleton Top and life is short. Jay

Solder doesn’t flow if the surface either isn’t hot enough or dirty. How are you cleaning the tip of your iron for starters? Maybe test on a piece of scrap rail by heating it with the iron then applying the solder to the hot rail and seeing if it flows.

Ay up Nick, I use the old school full fat lead solder and no flux. What you’re describing sounds to me like the solder being used - does the ‘145’ denote the melting point? If so that’s more suitable for white metal. Jay

68013 simmers outside Middleton Top shed this Friday evening.

68013 simmers by Middleton Top shed this Friday evening. …still there coming back down from Middleton Moor. Meanwhile someone’s dropped there nuts on the timbers at the top of the incline. Ive been taking my time over this part of the layout. Adding in some DAS clay, then adding some timbers in. Some of this is still loose while I trim to fit. Foliage slowly creeping in along that back wall in various layers. Dry stone walking needs a lot of work in the foreground! Jay

Wishing you a speedy recovery Jonathon. Glad the op went well for you. Jay

Almost ready for paint….

Another weekend and another J94. I’m going a little further with this old Dapol model: Rear of the cab has been replaced, new spectacle plates front and rear with the front windows enlarged, rear bunker ladder, smokebox dart, backhead details and reverser lever and rod. Still to go: lamp irons, steps, buffer beams and buffers. Then the loco will get a respray, new numbers, couplers, coal and crew.