Jump to content
 

petejones

Members
  • Posts

    413
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by petejones

  1. Had to move the whole lot over to the left by 4cm due to the turnout on the right being directly above a wooden strut:
  2. Does anyone know of a manufacturer that makes an OO Gauge 1901 Class 0-6-0PT? If not, is there a model I could use as a stand-in? Could I get away with a 1600 Class? My timeframe is the late 1940s. Thanks Pete
  3. Slight problem with the proposed plan and the 1950s time-frame - the turntable was moved to a different area of the yard in 1950 and the one infront of the shed was filled in! This was the shed in 1960: So I could either change the plan and remove the turntable (and lose a nice feature of the layout) OR I could change the period to the 1930s or 1940s. No particular reason for me to focus on the 1950s, other than RTR loco availability (the 1600 class model that will one day be released by Rapido). For an earlier era, I could do with an 850 Class and no-one makes a model of that as far as I know... However, in favour of moving back a decade or so would allow for some potentially better modelling as the previous shed was in a dilapidated state by then, as can be seen in this pic - what a nice model that would make! This is a nice scene from the 1930s:
  4. Just waiting for some odds and sods to arrive in the post, so here's a couple of shots of the baseboard I made a few months ago. It measures 240 x 44cm, a timber frame with blue craftfoam infill and a ply backscene. The only problem with the craftfoam is there is nothing to screw point motors onto, so I will need to cut some of the foam out and add pieces of ply where the points will sit. However, the baseboard is really light, I can carry it with one hand, even though it's 2.4m long.
  5. Not sure if this is too far to the right now, but I transposed the 1906 OS Map onto the track plan to get the angles of the two sidings correct. It should look OK as a model as I'm going to use a curved backscene at both ends, so there won't be big gaps in the two back corners.
  6. I could lose the front road, move things to the right like so and add in the twin lanes round the back of the shed:
  7. As you can see, the earlier map has a second lane from the turntable, but from a photo I have, it's gone and the two tracks go round the back of the shed. I reduced that to one on my plan as I think it looks too crowded.
  8. I've been working from OS Maps - one from 1906 and the other from 1970:
  9. A year on - any progress, Neil? I've been in the same boat with my efforts. When I was a kid I had too much time, now I'm middle-aged, I have sod all time. I suppose it follows that when I'm dead, I'll have no time...
  10. Whitland track diagram - I'm attempting to recreate the lower right-hand section:
  11. A couple more tweaks. I have a track diagram with the mileage siding capacities written on and it does bring home how compressed we have to make a layout for it to fit the available space. The sidings should really be twice as long as they are.
  12. Some historical pic so you can see what I'm aiming for: Whitland Shed, 1930s Whitland Shed, 1954 - note the new building that replaced the original one. Whitland Shed Interior, 1938
  13. Slight changes to the plan - the shed looks a lot longer from the pics I have, it looks like it would have housed at least two locos, so I've extended that; also removed the spur to the turntable as this isn't in pictures from the 1950s; finally, I replace one of the turnouts with a Y turnout as it looks slightly better.
  14. A provisional track plan - the board measures 240 x 44cm:
  15. Right, after a lot of dithering I put the Inglenook Siding idea to bed and am back on this one now. However, I'm going to concentrate on Whitland Shed (I will simplify the track plan I came up with last year as I think the board will look too crowded). Whether this leads onto further development of the line, I will have to wait and see, but this should keep me occupied for a while
  16. After some thought, I've decided to abandon this project in favour of Whitland Shed, which I started working on about a year ago.
  17. Up for sale again! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/00-gauge-Finescale-model-railway-layout/254687362753 It doesn't look so good now
  18. Started working on this layout again last night. I assembled the three Bullfrog turnout controllers, so will look at fitting them to the baseboard later today.
  19. Sorry for the delay. No I've not touched this for a while as I've been painting miniatures (the problem with having two hobbies, never enough time to work on both!). I hope to continue with the build soon.
  20. Arrived today! There was a customs charge, but at least they arrived safely at this difficult time.
  21. Decided to use the BullFrog manual system from Canada - looks like it will work OK with this small board. Should be here next week all being well. https://www.handlaidtrack.com/bullfrogs
  22. I wiring up the turnouts and motors last night, but have backed out of the work I did for a couple of reasons. The depth of the craftfoam is 20mm, which meant that even the extended arm of the Peco point motor didn't reach the turnout, so then I tried mounting the point motor directly under the turnout. This required a hole to be cut into the foam, then I superglued the motor to the turnout (I didn't want those metal lugs that protrude through the sleepers to be visible - they will look an eyesore close-up), but then realised I'd be stuck if one of the motors fails one day - I'd have to remove the turnout and mess up the ballasting and scenery. So, I backed out of this approach and am now looking at something simpler - possibly wire-in-tube with Gaugemaster frog juicers, or even manual switching with the frog juicers. Less to go wrong that way
  23. Thanks, I'll be using Peco point motors with their polarity switches, so it should be easy enough.
×
×
  • Create New...