Alex Duckworth

Great start. I'm very interested to see this progress, I've thought about modelling the jetty at Hoo Ness for ages. Alex

Don't worry about the wire and cornflake box thing Mike, proper modelling is about ending up with the best possible model for the desired result and you certainly do that. I was told a long time ago that a good modelmaker would use materials appropriate to the desired result, whether brass, wood, card (or etching and 3D printing for that matter). It's quite natural, I find, to be hyper aware of the wobbly bits - when I've finished a model I can't bear to look at it for a couple of weeks, all I can see are the mistakes and bits that I should have done better. The important thing is that you improve from project to project. regards, Alex.

Hello Mike, I've been coming back to your latest photos for a couple of days now and I have to say that I think your "Starry Night" long exposure shot without the train is the most realistic model photo that I've ever seen. The screen is really well done but the roof with it's dirty glass and missing panes is perfect, as is the placement of the single figure at middle distance. I rather like the sunlight shot too - in fact I like all of them.

Hello Mike - brilliant (as ever) photo. I went back several times to check that it is a model and that you aren't spoofing us. Magic! regards, Alex.

Absolutely no intention of reproducing them.

Thank you both for your answers. Alex.

Quick question for anyone who remembers the Harton locos - No. 10 in its green incarnation appears to have four small lights on the cab roof. Were they all white lights, were they directional? Did No.10 (and No. 13) carry built in directional red lights? I'm building 10 and 13 in 2mm and I'd like to get the lighting correct. thanks, Alex.

Yes, the chassis is scratchbuilt. The split frame chassis is made from 2 strips of 0.5mm double sided PCB, frame spacers from 1.5mm double sided PCB, gapped and soldered together. Frame bearings are 2mm Assoc. 1.5mm phosphor bronze and the wheels are 2mm Assoc. 9mm brass centered drivers with filler counterweights and every other spoke sawn out with a piercing saw. Their rear faces were turned down and backed with shim brass, then thin superglue was dripped into the spaces between the spokes. The cylinders are IIRC old Brian Clarke castings redrilled and sleeved. The con rods, coupling rods, crosshead and slide bar are made from waste etch fret. Motor is a 6mm Tramfabriek with 2mmAssoc. gear and worm, supported on a Perspex mount and siliconed into place. All the body gubbins is formed from copper wire, brass tube, wire and nuts and Meridian handwheels. Dumb buffers are lime wood with lead foil front plates. Works plates from Narrow planet. As soon as I get a chance I will build some 9mm gauge track and some points. Alex.

Thank you. The answer is no, but it should be. My use of 2mmAssoc. drivers (I wanted brass centres for a split frame chassis) means that it will run on Peco 009 track, but only just. Careful back to back adjustment is needed to tread the narrow line between the flanges hitting the point vee and the wheels falling inside the rails. Fettling the Peco points is probably more trouble than building your own track, on a small layout at least. It's OK on straight track though.

Just rediscovered this thread - really impressed, excellent work. Alex.

My generic Fletcher Jennings model is now finished apart from some weathering.

Exceptional, especially with an out of the box engine. The finish on the background terrace is very realistic. Alex.

Spot on. Alex

Great work there David, this is going to make a really good diorama. Is it for the WD Simplex? Alex.

I've had lots of MO.2 gears from Mikroantriebe, all white Polyacetal and I haven't had any problems with them at all. Alex.

Thank you Mike, it's made easier by the excellent fit of your etches. I've been looking with interest at the EE1 that you sent. Alex.

At the moment just parts piled together, but it's starting to look a bit like Harton No.13. No. 10 lurks behind it.

Really nice model, great work. I always use Narrow Planet for etched plates, their quality is second to none. https://shop.narrowplanet.co.uk Alex.

Hello Mike, glad to see that your work is as excellent as ever. Hope all is well with you. all the best, Alex.

Hello Steve, would you be able to print some of your 4mm NCB transfer sheets at 2mm? Alex.

Looking good David, nice loco and the layout is coming on well. Hope that you are all well. Alex.

I've always found that it is easier to make minute adjustments to quartering if you insert the the spikes of a small pair of dividers between the wheel spokes. As well as allowing fine movements you also improve your purchase on the wheel. Alex.

Hello Chris - I do like them, they are so wonderfully ugly and businesslike. It is one of Mike's 2mm etches, excellent as usual, hopefully nos. 13 and 15 will be as enjoyable to build. I'm currently working on a small layout that whilst not being an exact reproduction of the Harton system will (I hope) be representative of parts of it, including the curved incline up to the headshunt then to the staithes. I've got a baseboard and Keith Armes has built me some super turnouts (I don't like making track, hence I'm not very good at it) so I'm well on the way.

Hello Julia, thanks. I've got an idea for a chassis that has a 6mm motor driving one axle with a gear train driving the other. I think that it should all fit in and leave enough room for a DCC chip, and I intend to use the same chassis with a little lengthening and a larger motor for the other two engines (nos. 13 and 15).

The first of my Harton engines, No 10. Alex.