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mevaman1

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Posts posted by mevaman1

  1. IMG_3386.jpeg.5c20e9da22ba59364fac6fdbaf640217.jpegI have 37026 and all of the lights have stopped working on DC.  

    I have 6 Accurascale 37s and found that 3 of mine (37026, 37409 and 97301) had the dip switches set to the ‘For operation with a non ESU decoder’ at purchase.

     

    I use Gaugemaster handheld feedback DC controllers.  When the lights on 37026 stopped, I set the dip switches to ‘For operation with the DCC blanking plate’ position.  The lights on 37409 and 97301 still work but not on 37026.

     

    I attach a photo.

     

    I have swapped the blanking plug but still the lights on 37026 don’t work.

     

    As the loco is an eBay purchase, I can’t return it to Accurascale.

     

    Does anyone have any thoughts?  
     

    Regards,

     

    Andrew

  2. I have 37026 and all of the lights have stopped working on DC.  
     

    I have 6 Accurascale 37s and found that 3 of mine (37026, 37409 and 97301) had the dip switches set to the ‘For operation with a non ESU decoder’ at purchase.

     

    I use Gaugemaster handheld feedback DC controllers.  When the lights on 37026 stopped, I set the dip switches to ‘For operation with the DCC blanking plate’ position.  The lights on 37409 and 97301 still work but not on 37026.

     

    I attach a photo.

    IMG_3386.jpeg.da0785b2a6c9ba8d6ea62cf3849e5617.jpeg

    I have swapped the blanking plug but still the lights on 37026 don’t work.

     

    As the loco is an eBay purchase, I can’t return it to Accurascale.

     

    I know that this isn’t a DCC issue as such but the problem is similar to those encountered by SRman.  Does anyone have any thoughts?  
     

    Regards,

     

    Andrew

  3. I saw the pre-production sample at Kernow this afternoon.  It is a work of art!

    I am hugely impressed.

     

    I mentioned that Geoff Hudson is worth getting involved.  He lives locally to Kernow.  For those that don’t know he was Laira Depot manager at the end of the 50s in mainline service and was responsible for many of the repaints.  He is a railway modeller and a true gentleman.  He also knows all the fine details on each loco.

     

    Here he is with Defiance at Long Rock in March 2019. (second from the right).

    IMG_4449.jpeg

    • Like 10
  4. My 97301 has arrived and it is, frankly, fantastic.  She is superbly detailed and well finished.  I operate DC and she runs like a dream.

     

    I like to fit nose ariels using painted toothbrush bristles.  I see that 97301 had them up to around 2014 and then lost them.  What was the reasoning for this?

    IMG_2925.jpeg

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
  5. 22 hours ago, DCCconcepts said:

     

    We don't do seperate crockery!

    You may be confusing this with the complete table and lamp....

    https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/working-table-lamps-lamps-and-settings-pullman/

     

    Best Regards,

    The DCCconcepts Team

     

    Thanks for confirming.

     

    There is an opportunity for those with 3D printers to make such things.  They could be used in other Director’s Saloons, buffet coaches and Pullman coaches.  Perhaps also good for miniature dolls houses.

  6. D1015 fitted with offset dominoes as in August 2002 when she spent ‘a day on the clay’ running a rake of CDAs from Goonbarrow to Fowey Carne Point.

     

    I just have to sort out the light bleed with black-tack.

    IMG_2663.jpeg

    • Like 3
  7. I have had confirmation from Dapol that the headcode blinds in the latest batch of 52s are not self-adhesive.

     

    I have cut mine out and fitted them behind the glazing using Glue n Glaze.

     

    I damaged one in trying to remove it as I had assumed it was self-adhesive.  Fortunately I am being provided with a replacement by Albie the Plumber.  Dapol are also sending me a replacement set.

     

    Andrew

    • Friendly/supportive 2
  8. There’s a photo of Champion at Swindon in the snow in January ‘63 on page 55 of ‘Looking back at Westerns’ by Kevin Derrick (Strathwood).  It has the yellow T.  This was removed after a couple of days and was never carried in service.

     

    The ‘T’ re-emerged in 1985 at the Old Oak Common Open Day.  It was also in this livery in August 2002 at St Blazey.

  9. Does anyone know where I can obtain spare headcode sets for the OO 52?  I have D1015 and have damaged the ‘offset domino’ set.  I need them to model Champion as running in 2002 when hauling the CDAs.  I can’t find them on the DCC Supplies site.

     

    Any help much appreciated.

     

    Andrew

    D1015 Par 2002.jpeg

    • Like 1
  10. 10 minutes ago, Trains4U said:

    We’ve now sold out of sound fitted locos,

    however we do still have the following DCC ready locos available via our website  as of this morning.

     

    37043 Large logo x 3

    37409 large logo x 1

    37051Rf Metals x 1

    37026 Rf Distribution x 1

    Many thanks

    Just nabbed 37409.

     

    Andrew

    • Thanks 1
  11. My Caroline arrived a few days ago.  
     

    I am really pleased with it.  A superb model.

     

    I am aware of the gripes on here about ride height and the ‘t’s on the NSE version but believe that we are really fortunate that Revolution took the risk in making such an iconic piece of rolling stock.  I, for one, will be very happy to run it on our exhibition layouts without alteration.

     

    Andrew

    • Like 4
    • Agree 3
  12. 8 hours ago, adb968008 said:

    37402 Buffers…

     

    I just updated mine and thought i’d share.

    As pointed out earlier, the rectangular buffers are at the wrong end.

    Switching them is straight forwards..

     

    i remove the body as a matter of safety (avoiding the detail getting snagged etc, but you could choose to leave it on and go straight to step 4).

     

    1. Disconnect the eth, a tiny screw driver will simply pop it out (both ends)

    05A42CBC-5B6E-4749-8316-15E7D91AE3E1.jpeg.d43655b5ffe0bd064a361891acf783fc.jpeg

     

    2. unclip the body, this is as easy as Lima one, simply run your finger nail between body and chassis both sides,  4 lugs to unclip its dead easy.

    3. Make note the body only fits the chassis one way correctly… locate the three pipes on the chassis and align to the large grill end.

    5A7DD85E-473D-4D19-B792-C03E16180179.jpeg.4d596d34c435e224e4eef6659c9aecea.jpeg


     

    4. Four tiny sunglass sized screws hold the bufferbeam and coupling cradle.. remove the screws and lift out.

    E7F8BCAB-D765-4D74-9A12-BCF0D87C8FC7.jpeg.eb8cd69d9dc495147768ea3653a76790.jpeg

    Caution here to not unseat the coupling cam box and spring.. it should be flush and gently handling here, to avoid frustration with the spring..

     

    E0683716-19F4-47E6-9D55-028473DEB091.jpeg.ad7cdd77ed30b87b04faf42d310306df.jpeg

     

    5. swap bufferbeam ends, refit the screws, ensuring the coupling cam is seated flush to the cradle and hence the frame

    6. tighten, refit the body as per the fuel pipes to the large grill and oush the eth cable back in, job done.

     

    5-10 mins.

    Cheers adb968008.

     

    I have just swapped mine to correct the minor problem.

     

    Now to fit the ploughs!

     

    Andrew

    • Like 1
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