CloggyDog

Even in the other modeling spheres, dioramas still tend to act mainly to put the modelled subject (plane/tank/train/figures) in a contextual setting, though equally many are happy just to have the subject sat on a plain base, though a mirror base is also popular among the plane modellers to better see the fine detail of the underside. For some years I was solely into operating the model railway, so scenery was irrelevant, got in the way and was a pain to have to do (so I didn't) - what our US friends would call a 'plywood prarie' where ops is paramount. Just some very basic, ops-focused structures and very little else. But now I'm serial-building micro layouts, I do prefer to have the setting right and consistent with the modeled trains, even if I only have limited space to set the railway in it's correct context. And I'm finding doing the 'scenics' quite fun, indeed quite therapeautic. Perhaps it's because micros don't need much in the way of scenery, so it can be done cheaply/quickly/easily?

I'd be very interested to see evidence to support that. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Rail_Class_21_(NBL)#/media/File:Harringay_West_geograph-2392160-by-Ben-Brooksbank.jpg https://railphotoprints.uk/p321309302/ea4df4993 My only issue with that is represented by the linked photos showing the original grilles on a couple of locos, but on different sides. All 3 photos have the no 1 end leading, but showing the original grille on the right side of D6100, the left side of D6101 and D6103 And this shot of D6106 with no 2 end leading has the original grille also on the left side (if you looked from the no 1 end) https://railway-photography.smugmug.com/1/Pre-TOPS-Locomotives/Type-2/North-British-Type-2-dieselele/i-rN4d4b5 So, was D6100 different, as surely if the first 10 were delivered with different grilles, would they not all be one type on one side and the other on the other side? The Big Boy's Book Of NBL Type 2 DEs is at home, so will double-check later. It is clear that the original grilles lasted a matter of months before the new grille(s) were fitted and the production batch D6110 onwards had the later grilles as standard.

Thanks for the kind words everyone - the 29 body is more-or-less back together and the shape of the noses and cab windows is being fettled, then the nose detailing can begin. I've already done some resin casting - H0 BR1 sideframes from cut n shut Playcraft bogies to get an 8'6" wheelbase. No inners yet though (though I have a man possibly working on some etched ones for me). A couple of sets have already gone to H0 modellers via the 1:87 Society's egroup, happy to supply others, just pm me. Nominal cost to cover postage and the small amount of resin used. I think there might be pics on my thread on Lima H0 Mk1s, will link later. So I'll likely scratchbuilt a pair of 21/29 sideframes and cast them up in similar fashion. I thought the P2K FA was the closest match, although the casting will want some hacking to fit... might see what I have in the way of US mechs in hand, as the old Athearn Eff-Unit might also be worth a look. While waiting for the NBL to set, I also started hacking a Lima H0 33 to reduce it's width and convert to a 26 (at least the cabs will be... while I'm tempted to do the cantrail grilles also, that's a whole bunch more work... we shall see. Cab 1 is more-or-less done, will see if I make a better job of cab 2 and then decide which to use as a master for more resin casting. Of course... if I do decide to do the cantrails, I might as well cast the whole shell Pics of the 26 and 29 to follow later, off to a meeting now!

I know NBL Type 2s never worked the Far North lines, but I fancied an alternative to the BRWC 2 I have part-started (and I might look at a Derby 2 in due course) for the H0 micro Dounreay I'm working on. So, a long, long time ago, Jouef produced a small range of British H0 models, under the Playcraft brand, including a NBL type 2. The plastic body has good bits and bad bits - the grilles are decent, the basic shape is pretty much there, but it is 4mm over width and the buffers are simple oval protrusions. Also of note is the different radiator grilles on each side! The chassis is crude, so I'll be replacing the mechanism with something better (possibly of US loco origin) with resin cast side frames (once I've scratchbuilt a pair of masters) Tackling the width requires a fairly complex set of cuts to preserve the roof grille and walkways. One end in the photo has been slimmed, the left hand one. I'll be fitting headcode boxes and details in due course. I do need to source a second shell to provide the required later rad grille and the extra side grilles the 29s had.

Indeed - as I pointed out to Hornby in December, if you were to ask a dozen steampunks 'what is steampunk', you would get at least 13 different answers - the genre/sub-culture is a very personal thing and each steampunk has their own subtly unique take on it. So while Laurie has 'his' steampunk (which Hornby have adopted for this initial foray), it differs from my steampunk, which differs from your steampunk. None of us are any more right or wrong than the other. And that's one of the best things about steampunk, there are very few rules and restrictions (other than a universal 'be splendid in thought, word and deed') - indeed we are often rising to the challenge from others that 'thing x' 'cannot be steampunk' by creating a steampunk version of 'thing x' (Star Wars and the Marvel 'universe' have both seen steampunk adaptations/mash-up, among others). Like others, personally I'd like to have seen Hornby take a wider view of steampunk and maybe look at other existing tooling (the old clerestories, 'Singles', etc which could equally well have been adapted with simple add on parts. And almost universally, all the steampunks I know who've seen the range have shuddered at the be-cogged building range. But from small acorns, etc... it's a starting point and if it inspires either steampunks to take up modeling railways and/or railway modellers to become steampunks, it's a win, surely? As an aside, in due course, my partner and I are planning to build a micro layout/diorama based on the Amazon TV series Carnival Row, which featured a rather interesting elevated railway: But that will feature scratchbuilt/kit-bashed items, with the elevated railway using either lasercut Wuppertal Danglebahn or US elevated railroad support structures. I'll do the mechanical bits, she'll do the scenics.

I did (gently) make the point about 'brass pound chasing' and mentioned that steampunk was rather more free-form than one-man's interpretation (fun though Laurie's stuff is, it's not 'my' steampunk). But if it gets steampunks thinking about incorporating model railways into their creative makes then that's a good thing, likewise if railway modellers become 'steam-curious' and take an interest in steampunk off the back of this range, then it's a win-win, surely?

As part of the group that organizes The Asylum (the world's biggest steampunk gathering), I was invited to the press day in Margate and had a look at the prototype models from the steampunk range, which have been designed in association with Laurie Calvert. This is a low-risk toe in the water for Hornby, adapting existing tooling to keep costs down. I did point out at the time that the buildings were a bit 'glue a cog on it...' Don't forget, this range isn't really aimed at existing railway modellers (who tend to focus on fidelity to prototype to a greater or lesser degree), this is aimed at steampunks who want to expand their already creative and fun makes to include railways. Steampunk ISN'T serious, it's fun, off-the-wall and there are few boundaries to limit one's creativity.

The stock was definitely East German (DR) rekowagen and I think the loco was a Br38 (Prussian P8 4-6-0)

Red Caboose in New York City. It was an experience...

Marlow, Maidenhead and District Model Railway Club's annual exhibition will take place at Cox Green Community Centre on Saturday 4th January 2020, 10am - 4:30pm. Our annual exhibition has been held at this venue since 2006 and we hope you will be able to attend and enjoy the wide variety of both exhibitors and traders we have assembled. 2020 - Entry Prices: Adults £5.00, Children 5 - 14 £3.00, Under 5's free, Family (2 Adults + 2 or more children) £13. Please Note: There is limited parking on site, it may be necessary to park in the side streets during the morning period. Cox Green Community Centre, 51 Highfield Lane, Maidenhead, Berkshire, SL6 3AX www.mmdmrc.org.uk

I recall the sand traffic using the Mile End coal drops site into the mid-1980s, mostly in vac-fitted hoppers and mins by that point, Class 31 hauled from either Marks Tay or somewhere on the Southminster branch, iirc. After that traffic ceased, I think one or two roads remained active for tamper to stable? I also recall the incline down to the lower yard (albeit some 10 years after the yard closed) and said incline being infilled in the late-80s and the fast lines slewed across. There are bits of the area in various photos that would make a cracking micro layout... Just waiting for a Y4 to become available.

I usually do a bit of research before the show, assuming the organisers have a website (and it's up to date!) and I might well have a shopping list prepared off the back of that, so will usually scoot round the traders to sort that out first. Then I'll bimble round the show, usually doing the outside ring first and then any cross aisles. Like James, I usually find myself starting on the left. I will usually look at every layout as I've often been surprised/inspired by something on a layout which falls outside my usual interests, although some layouts might only get a quick 'once over' if they are very generic ootb trainsets. With my exhibition manager's hat on, I'm also on the lookout for suitable layouts to invite to my show (or my club's show) I'll also check the s/h traders just to see if by fortune there's any Czech TT, British H0 or DR H0 bargains to be had. And I always give the s/h book sellers a good look - there are still some gaps in my bookshelves!

34C outlined the process in the post immediately below the one of mine you quoted. Cut the 2 posts from inside the Airfix shell and slightly trim back the vertical inner ribs until the Airfix body is a nice tight push-fit onto the Hornby chassis. If you want a more secure hold, you could fit a stretcher of thickish plasticard up in the top of the Airfix shell at both ends (just aft of the cabs) to align with the screw mounts through the Hornby chassis and drill out to accept the screws. One minor thing to bear in mind is the centre body 'skirt' on the Airfix shell is under length (by about 4 scale feet), but it's not that noticeable. Might be worth trying the Hornby glazing in the Airfix shell, might be easier than cutting clear plasticard for flush glazing (been there, done that....)

I've also clearly been lucky too then, as my electrofrog points just get plonked down straight out of the packaging, usually wire-in tube mechanically operated, ballasted/infilled/weathered and they work fine, even after a fair few years use and periods of storage. DC and DCC. Not saying that the wiring methods noted above don't work, but my personal experience also shows the points work 'as is'.

I recall the opening credits including the line 'Based on War of the Worlds by HG Wells' (my bold/italics) which is much the same thing. I wasn't expecting a slavish adaptation, I'd already heard it was looser job, albeit set in the correct era at least. And if you think the Collet Goods gaffe was bad, some of the reenactment forums have been in full froth mode over the soldiers kit and equipment!

The Bachman tooling for the Mk1 Subs are now rather long in the tooth, even if they are still in the range as current stock. The basic shape is there and they do look like Mk1 Subs, it's just the detail is now poor compared to modern releases. Laser-cut flush glazing is available from Shawplan (c £8 per coach), wheels can be swapped for metal ones, the underside trussing could be replaced (Southern Pride/Replica/Comet) or bodge a Bachmann BG chassis, but yes, that will all add to the cost/time. I've upgraded a bunch to varying degrees for a BR blue project, as BR Mk1 Subs were the only such stock still running in the 1970s.

Tim Horn is still very much in business, despite his website woes. Had a delivery from him within the past month. Ping him an email, I know he keeps the more popular boards in stock and his baseboards are top quality in both design and material and o together very easily.

Despite having 2 Ikea-LACK-based micros under construction, I've already started the advanced planning for another, my first ever foray into NG Modelling. This will be largely based on the VoR and Devils Bridge station (though probably a mirror image version) and inspired by this pic from the Newton Abbot Railway Studies website: Yes, I know it's banger blue. I can't ever recall seeing a blue-era VoR layout on the show circuit or in the comics. Should upset a few steam purists, I hope I've never even contemplated a 009 layout before, so am rather in the dark regarding stock. Locos I know I can get kits for (whitemetal body on a Minitrix 2mt/BR24/BR64 chassis) and there's some VoR rolling stock available in kit form, albeit the earlier coaches. Worst case I'll use the closest-looking stock and wing it. While I'll likely use Peco's 009 track for cost/availability reasons, I'd be open to suggestions of alternatives as I know Peco's rail section is a tad chunky. The Lack upon which Mynydd y Ddraig will be built is 110cm x 26cm, plus a fiddlestick off the station throat end. I'll obviously need to compress the platform (and therefore train) length, but I think I can still capture the feel of the prototype.

Has the Hornby 31 chassis completely disintegrated, or just the outer ends? Either way, I'd look to bodge a replacement chassis (thick plasticard perhaps?) to re-use the Hornby motor and bogies, unless the chassis issues have also knackered the Hornby body? The old Airfix 31 motor bogie, as already noted above, draws a lot of current compared to todays' models and it definitely sounds like your controller is tripping/re-setting.

I build micros as that's easiest for the space I gave available at home. (plus they are quick, cheap and allow a wider variety of modelling - different scales, eras, countries...) Exhibiting them, I do get lots of comment and discussion from people (often women prompting their spouse) about how little space is actually required for a usable model railway. My micros are invariably operated from the front and sit on a table (3 or 4 chairs in front for viewers to sit and view), also good for kids and those with mobility issues. This all adds up to lots of interaction and interest from the viewer. I can also involve them in the shunting puzzle 'game' by having them pick the cards, or even allowing the keener ones to gave a go. Regarding long layouts, one of the best layouts I've seen at a UK exhibition (in the 40 years I've been going to them) was the superb P87 modular layout at Warley some 10 years ago, brought over by a collective of Dutch and German groups, iirc. Epoch 3 DB practise. Some 100ft long, fiddle to fiddle via 3 or 4 intermediate stations and most importantly, operated as a real railway, with correct dispatching (via an internal phone system and local Stellwerke) and running the trains most realistically. I happily spent a good hour or more over the weekend watching it. It helped that the modules were to a consistently high standard and gelled together as one entity. But apparently I was in a very small minority as it was a. 'Foreign rubbish' and b. Boring. I get personal preference for a given era or scale or prototype, but to simply ignore very high standard modelling on that basis seems very rude, bigotted and ignorant.

The older ones (1962 onwards) with separate sides are prime cut&shut fodder for producing Mk1s other than the basic BSK/CK/RMB that Tri-ang gave us. There was great article in the MRC circa 1982/3 which detailed some of the possibilities (and a couple more articles elsewhere detailing conversion to assorted EMU types) - I know I did the TSO/BG and BCK conversions from BSK and CKs. The RMB, with it's lovely late-Mk1 window frames could become a TSO with one RMB sacrificing windows into 2 others (2 from 3). Avoid the 70s production runs though, the ones with the oversize 'chrome' window frames. I believe Clive of this parish is still making coaches this way . The only major issue, iirc, is the bogie centres are a few mm too far toward the end. Otherwise they are very usable.

The Dapol cab is correct scale length IIRC, so why would it be rectified?? On the real 08s, the smaller number transfers were used (6" vice the usual 8" on mainline locos) to fit the numbers on the cabside. 08 792 by Alan Monk, on Flickr 08 709 Stratford by Alan Monk, on Flickr A number of 08s did get 8" numbers which were very squished up 08 750 Stratford by Alan Monk, on Flickr 08 855a Aberdeen by Alan Monk, on Flickr 08 900 Bristol Bath Road by Alan Monk, on Flickr

While on the subject of LT wagonry... Does anyone know what type of bogies we're fitted to the 30t flat wagons, either the 1937 or 1951 batches, number ranges F332-F369. Difficult to tell from the various photos I have available to me. I'm also assuming they ran on smaller diameter wheels? 9mm? 10.5mm?

I've recently cut n shut a Parkside 4mm MR 20t Brake Van into the LTPB Hurst Nelson van, scaling fairly roughly from photos and a couple of key measurements. There's 6mm out of the wheelbase, 2 planks (4mm) out of each cabin side offset with the joins hidden hehind the duckets) and 1mm off each veranda. The recessed outer ends were infilled with Evergreen O Gauge planked Car Siding and duckets scratchbuilt from 4 layers of 20 thou plasticard, suitably shaped. Roof shortened by 6mm and the rain strip and chimney detail removed. 0.45mm handrails added, and the long footstep cut n shut by 6mm. Its not 100% correct - I didn't alter the cabin ends (door centred still rather than offset to the left) and only 4 step supports instead of 6 (might still add those on), but it looks the part at least. Light grey with red ends and Modelmasters decals will finish.