CallingAtGreatDestinations

This is the layout of the two boards at the top of the image. The layout follows the contour of the walls. The fiddle yard will be using hand-operated insulfrog points, so I am not concerned about the wiring there. I am mainly concerned with how I should wire the bus up to my particular controller and how I should terminate the two bus wires.

I just wanted to thank everyone for your replies! I appreciate your valuable knowledge, especially due to my lack of understanding in this field. For the Bus wire, what steps should I take after it has terminated at the end of the board? This is the clearest image that I have seen of the ends in a video, but I am not quite sure as to how I should implement it into my layout. Should these two wires be left separate or do they convene? I am using 14 gauge wire for my Bus and 16 gauge for my feeders. As for connecting the bus wire to a power source, I am currently using the Bachmann EZ command controller, which is not ideal. How would you all recommend that I connect this wire (controller -> track) to the bus wire? Should I just clip the end box off and solder to the bus accordingly? Please let me know.

Hello all, I have been working away at a layout idea for quite a while, and I have having trouble understanding the electrofrog wiring. This is the layout below: I have read through Brian Lambert's electrical webpage, but I am still confused as to where I should wire in the power sources/where I should install isolating fishplates. I have modified the points based on the Dean Park tutorial (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Et3vuedbZ98), and so this slightly complicates things. I would greatly appreciate some advice regarding this process, as I am excited to get trains running finally.

Hello all, I recently acquired a new DCC-ready Bachmann Jinty. Unfortunately, I have used both the Rails of Sheffield RoS-8D and the Lenz 10330-01, but neither of them fit into the bodyshell. The Bachmann EZ-command decoder barely fits, but it 'runs' at an unacceptable quality, an issue that I have had multiple times with Bachmann decoders. Does anybody know of non-Bachmann decoders that will fit into the Bachmann Jinty? I am not in need of anything with sound or stay-alive capabilities, just the basic dcc operations. Please advise, - Grayson

Hello, I am a fairly novice modeler and I have decided to dip my toe into wiring. I have rigged up a wiring setup which utilizes the Peco PL-10E, PL-9, PL-13, and PL-26B, along with a medium radius Peco Electrofrog point. I have followed the steps of the Dean Park YouTube channel, and modified the point as shown. I am very confused as to how I am meant to continue, as my first arrangements have not worked. I cannot get the point motor to move. This is simply an exercise that I wanted to try before I wire up my DCC layout. I am also confused about the power source for the point motor, as I was under the impression that the point received power from the tracks. Again, I am very new to this, so patience is appreciated.

Hello, I am a fairly novice modeler and I have decided to dip my toe into wiring. I wanted to do a test of my wiring beforehand by utilizing the Peco PL-10E, PL-9, PL-13, and PL-26B, along with a medium radius Peco Electrofrog point. I have followed the steps of the Dean Park YouTube channel, and modified the point as shown. I am very confused as to how I am meant to continue, as my first arrangements have not worked. I cannot get the point motor to work. Again, I am very new to this, so patience is appreciated.

Hello all, I apologize for the long duration between posts, I have been extraordinarily busy with my various other obligations. I have a question surrounding the function of Peco point motors, specifically the use of the PL-15 micro-switch. Up until about an hour ago, I was under the impression that Pl-10E, PL-13, and PL-9 were all of the parts required to operate the basic Peco point motor, as these were the only parts mentioned in the various tutorials I have watched. I saw the PL-15 show up on Hattons, but I have not found guide which utilizes it for both OO and DCC operation. Are there any benefits to using the PL-15 other than the smaller footprint? Is it required for a DCC layout which utilizes electrofrog points? Please advise

Hello again, I have never actually painted a kit before this, so I figured I might as well test my paints out on something small. For what it is, I'm pretty happy with it!

Hello, seeing as there are many brick tutorials with varying instructions I decided to test a few variations on the typical 'mortar wash'. I used two Wills SSMP226 Flemish Bond Brickwork sheets, along with a number of Liquitex acrylic paints. A base coat of Burnt Sienna was applied to the left-hand sheet, while a coat of Raw Sienna was applied to the right-hand sheet. Both of these were then treated with burnt umber, which was dry-brushed in splotches to provide variation. All of this shows the extreme results which can be achieved simply by changing the application process of the Mortar. I found the heavily watered-down white to be too light on the brick, but I prefer the lightly watered-down brick over the rest. The examples which I left to dry for 20 minutes required intensive scrubbing with either a cotton bud or a paper towel to remove the paint from the brick faces. The result is that the left-hand example had its base coat stripped away, revealing the unpainted Will's sheet. I hope this is helpful to somebody, please do not hesitate to comment.