GrumpyPenguin

Further to the subject of these adaptors, a long time ago I PAT'ed a server room that had a lot of these, some directly plugged in to sockets on the dado trunking and some on extention leads. On of the IT techies mentioned that they seed to have issue with equipment "like loose connectios". In the end we wired up enough European type sockets for some of the equipment and they had no further issues. Hence, my dislike of them.

I would recomment that you treat yourself to a Zimo decoder - they have excellent motor control, failing that a Lenz Silver - you don't have to use the functions.

My main profession was an electrical engineer with a fault finding background - over the years I replace far too many sockets that had been damaged by the use of various adaptors. I still carry out a fair amount of PA Testing and fail them on the grounds that they put undue strain on the sockets.

Not a problem - the main thing is that the coaches are fine - in the meantime I've found a set of my Roco's with the same arrangement.

They do - my Z21 came with one that was immmediatly destroyed & binned - I would never use one of those nastly adaptors.

Excellent image - all the better for being in monochrome. Be worth a trip to Bosnia just to see these in action (I've heard that the crews are very friendly too).

Like many modeller I "grew up" with Peco points & solenoid point motors, such as Peco's own & the bombproof H & M. But I do wonder why modellers still persist with such clunky mechanisms & the need to install a CDU to operate them ? The only reall issue to me seems to be the strenth of the overcentre spring in the Peco points. The European manufactures can produce points that operate with tiny solenoids that draw around half an amp & they are reliable. Most of them have "end-off" switching too. The effort to move them is about the same as that of a Peco without the spring. Is it a legancy (we've always done it like that) thing, like the 4 x 2 layoit module that can fit on the back seat of a car ? FWIW I am currently using Peco points and MTB point motots (a very cost-effective range with many switching variants & a DCC version on the way).

From recent Roco purchase's it looks to me like locomotives are produced in Europe and rolling stock in Vietnam. A fair amount of "soft" scenics are also produced in Vietnam.

Agreed, especially if they feature someone I don't like. Most of it I can ignore except for the moving/GIF ones.

Personally I would not power latching relays from a CDU, it would work but not, I suspect for long. Having said that I really don't understand why modellers still use solenoid motors that require a CDU (crude/nasty things) to operate them anyway.

Just buy the single LED's ready mounted on a small board 12v rated from one of the adverisers on here, run them at 8/10v smooth DC & you won't have any issues. They are not expensive.

As a matter of interest what App were yoiu using & was it fully updated ?

I was going to refrain from commenting on this thread as I find the whole speculations quite amusing. Clearly, you have no idea of the geography of Thanet. The Hornby facility is within half a mile of Westwood Cross (Primark, WHS, Waterstones ect), Various Westwood Retail parks (Halfrauds, Dunelm, B & M, Pets at Home, Tesco (a biggie), Currys, Sainsbury's ect) and over the road from B & Q.

So does the Lenz LH100, but they are both old hat & dated. If you were having drop-outs with the Z21 it may not have been the Z21 - what were you using with it ? The Z21 gives you the best of both worlds - touch screen via a tablet, phone, iPad, Chromebook or you can go for a Multimaus (wired or wi-fi) - nice handheld (one handed), 40 loco "stack" & "sniffer" port to use another controller.

DCC Train Automation import MTB - they may have an idea.

Neither would I - switch mode PSU's don't always "fire-up" with little or no load.

I don't think any Roco Locomotives with a 4-digit number (forget the first zero) were fitted with decoder sockets. It will be a hard wire job and little space for a decoder due to the "light tubes", a possible solution would be to replace the bulbs with LED's mounted at the ends.

As everything was essentially built to order I can never understand why a more accurate gauge was not used.

Not really ; Man with more money than sense buys car. Man finds he's not a very good driver. Man crashes car.

Set F7 (or shunting speed) & that inhibits acceleration although you do only get half max speed.

Part of me wanted to say "see you in court", another part simply wanted to see the back of him without further ado - the second thought won.

If it's the store I'm thinking about it was always worth checking out when in the area - the "Aladins Cave" was out ther back, glad to hear it's re-opened.

Generally, the Piko Hobby Locomotives have less detail & the early OHE's had plain wheels without the "discs" & no traction tyres (a good thing actually). Motors were often slightly lower quality and no flywheels. As time goes on the Hobby range is getting better quality, anyway, they are great value & when on DCC run very well indeed. As an aside the Fleischmann BR218 only drives at one end (FWIW although similar to the Hornby/Lima motor bogie it's far superior). Some of the earlier ones can be tricky to DCC due to the metal motor backplate.

You could, but not every "layout assembler" is capapble of fabricating a micro-switch to do the task reliably.

Preiser may do - check out their website to be sure. Preiser availability can be wafty at the best of times though. (HO) You could also try Mike Pett on 01843 593417 He does a range of white metal figures. (OO)