ITG

Thanks all - some great ideas there. I like the idea of linking it (the scenic treatment of my gap) to a surrounding feature, such as the gas pipe laying diorama, or the water mill, etc. I’m not yet at the stage of needing to decide, but as always, it does pay to think ahead about how everything links together. Meanwhile, a million other things to ponder.....

I’m at the early stages of building a 3.5m x 2m OO layout, using modular laser cut boards. It’s basically 600mm wide boards around the room, apart from one corner diagonal board to allow for door access. Track is down and wired, testing/running underway etc. But I didn’t allow for a room that wasn’t quite square! As a result, I have gained a small gap between two boards at one end of the layout. Across that 600mm board, it’s approx 10mm at the wall edge, widening to some 20mm at the near edge of the board (Alongside operating well). Now, it’s small enough to cover over scenically, and luckily it is the 10mm end which has double tracks running over it, so easy to disguise. But, I’m wondering if I can make use of it, maybe as a drainage ditch or whatever. Obviously, at the wide end it’s only a scale 5 feet wide, so not really enough for a canal, and it is very straight sided so cannot be a meandering brook. Any ideas of what kind of feature it could be, maybe other than a drainage ditch? Or suggestions as to how to make it look right as said ditch?

All boards now (largely) track laid and wired, and now relocated into railway room. And it all fits back together and is all level. My method was to work on boards in pairs, leaving each pair joined for removal indoors. Was a little tricky with only wife to help during lockdown, but we managed. This halved the number of cross-board track joints. For those that did need to be joined, I cut track on joint, and slid rail joiners back by cutting chairs. This allowed me to simply drop the connecting track into place. As every piece of track has a power feed, that should be ok. Done some test running, and 90% ok, but a short wheelbase loco (Bachmann 2-4-2 tank) not liking a couple of points. It stutters and stops. As track was used on previous layout, I think a thorough clean (and of wheels) is next step. Then maybe have to lift offending points. Most recent track laying has been the incline, using Woodland Scenics 2% inclines. This starts from under the yet-to-be-built upper board, and goes in almost a complete circle to flow into the upper board terminus. Needed to do this to limit gradient. Now waiting for a pack of the Powerbase plates to ensure traction uphill is ok.

My uprights will be approx 150mm tall - well, cut to give me a 150mm baseboard height above lower level, so should work out to be 141mm or 138mm, allowing for thickness of board which may be either 9mm or 12mm - and I plan to screw these to the wall on three sides. So that would be along 600mm along the two end sides, and 3500mm along the long side. The other long side will rest on the lower board. I’m hoping that being screwed to the wall will give the added rigidity. its a right jigsaw puzzle trying to plan the lengths of the supporting framework to allow for missing the trackwork on the lower level for the ‘spine’ framework along lengthways.

Not the same brand, but I’m planning on using similar for an upper board terminus station above hidden tracks. The attraction was the 25mm profile of the tubes, meaning it maximised the clearance over the tracks below. https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/easyfix-and-more/easyfix No connection other than have already received an initial order, really as a sample set of tubes and junctions. One useful advantage is that this supplier cuts tube to length required, which for a regular framework of uniform nature, saves a lot of work. The frame will be like a grid of between 300-500mm rectangles, having to use varying dimensions due to legs (also tubes) resting on board below, and needing to clear tracks (curves at end).

I’m planning on using a lorry reversing camera and screen. The camera is small enough to be mounted inside the hidden storage yard. Total cost new from eBay around £18. All I need to add is a power source, which I had already. only question to be answered on installation is what angle view I can get on it. Although my storage yard is not huge, I’m hoping I can view both loco and train.

Track laying in garage well underway, and in fact first few boards now moved into railway room. I decided to lay track across pairs of boards, that is bolting a pair together to limit how many track joints across baseboard edges I have to do. We have no plans to move house, which I guess will be the on,y reason why the boards will be moved. Where I do need to lay track, and rejoin across a baseboard edge, I have laid the track, and used a piece of settrack across the gap, cutting back the sleeper chairs to allow the rail joiners to slide back. Then the bridging piece of track can simply slot into position when reassembled, and the rail joiners slid to connect up. Every piece of track has a power feed so connectivity should be ok. First tests of running on 2 pairs of boards now in situ passed ok, using a Hornby Class 40 and a Pullman coach. These boards form what will be largely the lower area under the station. Which is why point motors and frog juicers etc are on the surface. One track will be climbing at 2% to begin the route up to the station. And there’s one hidden storage loop there as well, plus the start of the entrance road to one side of the reverse loop. Which reminds me - must add a track plan later. Not sure why photo comes out sideways, as it’s right way up when I add it from file.

Thanks Stubby, that’s good advice. Having been tested for fit and level, The baseboards have now been removed from the railway room, and out into the garage again. There’s more space to be able to turn boards upside down, working on two at a time, so that track alignment across joins is ok. Using black foam sheet for underlay, which in the hidden tracks area, won’t be ballasted. I think my planning on Anyrail didn’t allow sufficient tolerance around baseboard edges, as what worked ok on screen was too tight on boards, so some tweaking necessary as track is laid out. As I’m using a mix of Peco settrack and Streamline, ensuring radii fit needs to be spot on. Because the tighter curves will mainly be out of sight, I find it helpful to use settrack for these. In any case, when I started on the first - now defunct - layout, I (perhaps) naively began with all Settrack. What I was used to I guess, from teenage years! So I already have a fair bit of it, and the the short straights can be helpful to fill gaps. i

You may get a better response posting in the DCC section.

A simple question, but one which others may have experienced when I haven’t. Starting on the new layout (see Depart here for Lockdown End thread in layout topics), I wish to mount DCC point motors (mix of Gaugemaster PM10D and Cobalt) below the board, as opposed to directly to the track as I did last time (to avoid cutting massive holes in board). This means I need to extend the length of the pins which were previously cut for track fixing. I note both DCC Concepts and Gaugemaster sell extension pins (tho latter out of stock everywhere it seems) which come with a collar to join to original pin. Is it good practice to glue this collar or crimp it in place? If glue, any recommendation as to best use? incidentally, online I’ve found 100mm pins of 1mm or 1.5mm which will probably do the job without waiting for stocks. Anyone else adapted by using non-specific purpose made pins (although then where would I get the collars? thanks in advance. ian

I’ve been inspired by this topic to name my new layout ‘Lockdown End’. Thank you for the idea. I’ll never forget when I started building it! But running a bit behind where this layout is - still early days.

Well, Les, I guess I was aware of such inconsistencies, but just didn’t twig quite what an issue that could be when having only 4mm wriggle room. As i said, every day is a school day.

Guess what? The actual room size, measured multiple times, is 3454 mm x 1972mm, so the jigsaw puzzle of modular boards added up to 3450 x 1950. Now I’ve discovered the room isn’t square, sufficiently so as to angle the long side of the base board to eat up that 4mm headroom (3454-3450) and a little more as well. So I have successfully chopped about 9mm off the end of one middle board and repositioned the end panel of it. Now fits! I only needed to do this along one wall, as the problem wasn’t so severe across the opposite wall, and the fact that a diagonal board across the door opening meant there was sufficient play in it to adjust to fit. Now, having got it all level, fitted legs and supports, and bolted boards together to ensure fit, I need to dismantle it all, and rebuild on the floor of the carpeted garage. I plan to print the full size trackplan (Anyrail) and lay track and underlay on pairs of boards, turning each pair upside down for wiring. Then moving back in to remount in the study. Must really start calling it the railway room! I will use the double garage, rather than the room itself, simply because of having more working space. Board sizes vary from 1200x600, to 750x600, to 1050x300. These sizes were selected because (a) they combined to fit the room (b) they should all be manageable to move in/out, although the layout is intended to be permanently sited and (c) they suited the track plan. By the way, I’m writing this in virtually ‘real time’ for 2 reason. One, I can remember what I’ve done a day at a time, and two, that way I’m hoping that those more experienced than me will be able to spot improvement opportunities in my technique or approach before I get too far along a road. So feel free to chip in with feedback and input.

And now inside to the study. Note the need for below board furniture necessitates the use of full length baseboard legs in some locations, and short adjustable ‘kitchen’ type legs in others, sitting on top of sideboard unit. Needs must, but it works quite well.

So here’s some pics of assembly of baseboards. Unfortunately, doing this task (assembling in garage) coincided with a garden shed being replaced (nothing to do with model railways), which meant lots of garden shed contents were temporarily stored in the garage.Result - congestion and mess! Although I’m quite capable of causing those two environments anyway - see the study as installation begins to happen. And yes, that is a carpet in my garage. Inherited from previous owners when we moved in a couple of years back. It’s a boon for jobs like this.

Well, I feel the moment has come to air the development of my second ever ‘adult’ layout. Not that the theme is x-rated, just that all previous layouts bar one, were long ago in my teens. I’ve been asking questions and seeking advice on this website for some 18 months now, during which time the first ‘adult’ layout was conceived, born, actioned, run and…….. met its end! I hope others will share, and benefit from, my experiences, fun, learning and pain, which led me to this point. Not that I have finished learning by a long chalk. As others have said, every day is a school day. Why start again? A number of reasons: · The railway room isn’t large (for 00, which is what I felt most comfortable with, due to both history and dexterity) at 3.5m x 2m, and was the family ‘study/office/storage’. I attempted to try to find space for using this room for both an office and a railway room – which turned out to be a compromise where neither worked well. (the layout was just 2m square) · I made the mistake of using my own carpentry skills and sundeala board. Not a good result. Baseboard problems dogged the layout with some warping and twisting, and its softness made precision and alignment of under-board point motors and servo-uncouplers tricky – well, for me at any rate. · I found I had quickly accumulated more locos & rolling stock than the layout could accommodate. · I always did see this first effort as a learning experience, so it was inevitable that version 2 would come soon. So, where do I start from? · The room is the same, and still needs to have plenty of underboard storage, using existing furniture, but no longer needs to be a functioning office (we’re both retired). Thank heavens! · Peco 00 code 100 mix Setrack (for tighter curves min 2nd radius) and Streamline (including all points). · Mainly Bachmann stock, spanning a loose 1950s-mid 80s, to no specific era or location. I am in the ‘run what I like within (my) reason’ camp. · DCC using Gaugemaster Prodigy Advance 2, with a mix of Gaugemaster/Cobaltdigital point motors, and a parallel 12v DC supply for servo-uncouplers, infra-red track sensors and lighting. · An intense wish to get the baseboard right this time! Hence, I have opted for a modular, but designed to fit the room, ply-constructed self-assembly board from WhiteRose Baseboards (no connection other than a happy customer). What I wanted from this layout and track plan: · As its likely for 99% of the time, I will be the solo operator, I wanted a double track continuous circuit, so I had the opportunity to set a couple of trains running, and sit back and watch, or shunt etc. · The operational and functional movement of a reasonable size terminus station, handling passenger and goods traffic, plus a modest loco facility. · Sufficient ‘storage’ and siding space for the current stock, plus allowance for growth. · Off-scene storage so there was a feeling of trains going somewhere, and later returning · A reverse loop, to turn complete trains. · A mimic panel, either or both of physical or on-screen for uncoupler control, and points indication and/or switching, etc. (I find it tiresome to use the DCC handheld to go from loco to accessory and back again. Not ruling out changing to a system such as Roco Z21) I fully understand that fitting all the above in, will result in what some might feel is an over-full and over-busy track plan, (which it is) and shortish trains (which they will be, maybe 3-4 coaches). But those areas are compromises I am willing to make, especially as the novice in me enjoys the journey towards completion (if ever) as much as the operating or destination. Because it is the current pandemic situation which has given me the time to action what I had been thinking about for some time, I name this layout…. Lockdown or maybe Lockdown End. Another thread gave me the name idea, so thanks. Plus, I'll be able to look back and reminisce about 'remember when......' I’ll post some ‘work in progress’ pics later, and also a track plan (still undergoing some minor tweaking).

You could do worse than ask DCC concepts. I found them very helpful when I had an issue with same point motors.

Interesting suggestions which also help me. I did make a (first attempt) small control panel (slightly less than A4), mounted on a wooden (cutlery) tray. I used plasticard for the panel itself, which was a little thin and springy, but not too bad for that size. I originally only intended to use it for uncoupler buttons (linked to servos) on the two station track plans, and some LEDs showing track occupancy (infra red sensors on a hidden loop). The diagram itself was self-drawn on MS Excel (the grid helps keep lines square and straight), printed (without the grid), and laminated, then glued on to the plastic card. But then I found I really needed some help remembering the numbers of DCC points, so ended up sticking labels all over it! I’m now just about to start a new layout, so comments on here are helpful - sounds like acrylic is a good option. I am considering using the top drawer (about 40cm wide and usable back-to-front depth approx 35cm) of a set of drawers, as a sliding in/out control panel ‘box’. The railway room has to double as a storage room, so various items stored in below-baseboard cupboards and drawers. This drawers unit is particularly robust, and top sits just below layout height. There is sufficient clearance to mount a panel and buttons, switches, LEDs. Multi strand cable out the back. The almost square nature of the panel means that the track diagram parallel lines can be spaced out for clarity, and when I sketch it out, hopefully will have sufficient space for uncoupler buttons, and numbered points LEDs. I’m still to decide if I add points switches or leave that to DCC buttons on hand held.

I’m planning on using these Easyfix square section tubes, which have the benefit of (a) you can have them cut to size Prior to delivery and (b) you can get adjustable feet. I’m also going to use a framework of this for an upper board section Support, so as to maximise clearance above lower board. No connection other than satisfied with my delivery of sample parts, prior to measuring /ordering the final supply. https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/easyfix-and-more/easyfix

I’m waiting for a delivery right now from WhiteRose baseboards. Can’t yet comment on product but very helpful people.

Mmm, that’s an interesting idea re bus wire and droppers being above board, particularly as my main station/yard/MPD is on a separate pair of boards along one wall, above lower boards. So, the more ‘complex’ (ie more tracks) wiring for those upper boards can still be under board if need be. 12v DC wiring for electronic servo uncouplers would also then be below board. The other boards I could do the (largely) DCC above board. I can see that could make life easier. lots to think about. thanks in the

For those advocating the screw/solder option, can I ask - are all yellow coloured screws made of brass? I inherited from my late DIY fanatic father every conceivable size, shape and purpose of screw in quantity. So I’m pretty sure I’ll have suitable ones, but he kept them in proper containers which he knew and recognised, but were not always labelled!

34B-D Could you clarify an odd point (no pun intended!) please? Am I right in thinking that wiring/fixing under board motors can be done initially, with point trackwork loosely in position (so that there’s some flexibility/movability when subsequently aligning/fixing adjoining trackwork)? But if plain tracks are not really fixed until board is then right way up, how/when are droppers wired in, without flipping board again? thanks Ian

Once again thanks to all. Mick B - a picture tells a thousand words, so I make your total 3000! Thanks. ISW - just scanned your layout page. What planning! Not sure I have the patience or skill to quite go that far. I’m going to have to review my intended track plan, as whilst I took care that below-board point motors did not align with baseboard joints, the same cannot be said of the point track form itself. Because I was seeing the layout/board as ‘permanent’, I wasn’t too concerned about this, but if I opt to assemble each board, and screw/solder track ends as suggested by some, that’s going to cause a problem where a point (or moving parts of) overlays a board joint. Plus some plain tracks will undoubtedly cross board joints at odd angles, which I guess makes the screw/cut/solder approach trickier? Its clearly unlikely to be feasible to actually change the track plan to make every point ‘miss’ board joints, as it would alter the whole character of the track plan, and make it look very odd. So maybe a mix and match approach, where some boards are assembled in pairs as a unit. Biggest board is 1200x600 and some are smaller (eg 1050x300) so I have to hope that is going to be practical.

Thanks all, some consistency and some variety in responses. All to consider. I hadn’t thought about the soldered screw under track to achieve portability and reconnection at baseboard ends. I was already preparing to do same for a removable girder bridge section which crosses the operating well, carrying a reverse loop track. I figured that whilst building and maintaining the layout, it would be helpful to have that bridge (approx 700 mm long) removable, to allow easier access, but obviously during normal operating, it would be in situ. TBH, I’m not looking forward to doing it just for that bridge at both ends, but if I need to do so at each baseboard junction, I should be good at it in the end! Any tips for this screw and solder approach?