ITG

Well, in my limited and recently gained experience, I’d say that the track layout on an actual baseboard tends to take more space than the on-paper version. I note you haven’t used Anyrail (which I did) but don’t bank on creating space which doesn’t appear so on paper. How will passengers access the platforms of the lower station? Where’s the station building? Are they slips or crossovers in the upper station? If the latter, there’s some pretty restricted movements. Eg, getting in/out of the second (from the top) platform road. I agree with earlier comments about sticking with settrack curves given the space you have, and how you wish to use it. To get the best out of flexitrack, and the possibility of sweeping curves, you’d need a lot less track on the board overall. Think about how to disguise settrack curves, with tunnels or view-blocking scenery or buildings.

Interesting lockdown experiences. Having decided to make a spare room a layout room - that is, the layout fills the room - I too have realised the challenge of having to carry out some work in the freezing garage. Once the lower level boards (2’ wide around the 11’6” x 6’6” room) were in place, all the work on tracklaying and below-board wiring on the upper terminus station boards had to go on in the garage. No room to manoeuvre and turn upside down in layout room. Even if I wrapped up well, some days my fingers froze after about a hour, making holding a screwdriver, soldering iron etc impossible. Just now got those boards inside in the warm. At least the feeling of progress - albeit slow - is worth bottling. Good luck.

I have a Hornby Class 40, so again a long wheelbase. I have a layout nearing the end of tracklaying stage. This loco rarely suffered any unreliable running, and then suddenly began stopping on a R3 curve, always same spot. No other loco suffered this. By closer examination, I discovered there was a minute downward movement in a section of track as the loco ran over it. I held the sleeper down at the end, by pressing the end of a screwdriver on it, and loco ran ok over it. Just needed another track pin to stop that movement. I can only think that the wheelbase dimensions and weight Combination limited the problem to this loco. That said, having got close to the end of the tracklaying stage, I fully expect some dust and grime on the track which may have also contributed.

Maybe a little unusual for a station to have a through platform only accessible by trains moving in a single direction (clockwise in your plan). Passengers travelling anti clockwise couldn’t alight here, or indeed board. Hence a return journey would be impossible.

Correct. I worked out the programming of CVs, and once I reset CV54 & CV55, the D11 is ok. Thank you. Now I need to examine the Patriot, and it’s shorting on points problem. I’ll post some more info shortly.

Cv8 = 151 which google tells me is ESU. Does that make any difference? I’ve not wholly got my head round changing CVs. I can see CV values on the Prodigy but how do I actually change them. Pressing ‘PROG’ just clears the screen, and inputting another numerical value seems to move on to that CV.

It’s a D11 Edie Ochiltree. As for decoder, the loco was purchased secondhand, and was from memory factory fitted DCC so I don’t actually know which decoder - what’s best way to tell? And is it likely to make any difference to this issue?

The Peco points are modified by cutting blade connections, and using frog juicer. The Patriot did run perfectly well over them all for some weeks, and another half dozen locos are fine with same points. So must be loco, I guess. I’ve just remembered that it did pick up a stray track pin recently, which was easy to see, stuck to the wheel. I removed it but could that have caused a problem somehow. Will report back exactly where the short occurs later when layout running.

Hi, still learning about DCC. Still at the stage of extended test running after track laying/wiring. I use a GM Prodigy Advance2 and a couple of locos have recently developed some odd running characteristics. Both were historically fine but have little use since I started rebuilding the layout. As one who hasn’t encountered the need to take remedial action before, I’d be grateful for some guidance. I bought both pre-owned, so not sure which decoders, but I suspect they are factory fitted. 1. a Bachmann 4-4-0 continually speeds up and down of its own volition. It does run both forward and backward, but jerks fast/slow. I have a suspicion this problem started after I’d had a short for some other reason. 2. a Bachmann 4-6-0 Patriot sound DCC runs fine, including sound, but recently started to short on every electrofrog point. Points are Peco modified with GM frog-juicers. All other locos run fine over said points, so it is definitely the loco. Any help much appreciated before I start trying to re-programme or wield a screw driver. Ian

My space initially was a little smaller than yours at approx 2 meters square, but I found out the hard way on my return to modelling about the risks of gradients, being: 1. Modernish models of steam locos seem to struggle on gradients, diesels seem more comfortable. 2. curves on gradients increase resistance still further, and obviously the tighter radii more so. 3. I did have 1:40 gradient, but in reality it can be steeper than it seems on paper, because of the need for transition sections between level and the 1:40. Some locos, depending on wheelbase and pick-up wheels, really don’t like a sudden change from level to 1:40, so you need to find a gradual transition, which will eat into your distances. I’ve now scrapped that layout and expanded the space to 3.5m x 2m, now using 1:50 gradient to/from a terminus station, and all locos seem more comfortable with this. I have installed Powerbase, but not yet had to use it (magnets not yet fitted to locos as may not need them).

And if using loco hauled trains, as there isn’t a run round loop within the platform area, where are the waiting locos (ie either for departing train or resting after arriving train) going to ‘park’? Unless they run back ‘light’ to the diesel depot? And back again.

Observation.......May or may not be an issue for you, but platform (?) 5 can only be used for arrivals, as there is no way out (other than the emu sheds as you say) for departures to run correctly on double track main line. There’s a lot of ins and outs to and from emu sheds to get trains in/out of platforms 1 & 2.

I need to reduce the size of previously drilled holes in the baseboard. They were used for dowel rods to lift/lower uncoupling ramps, driven by below-board servos. These weren’t wholly successful as the arc of the servo arm tended to push the vertical dowel out of true, causing it to catch. To keep the uncoupler ramp parallel to the rails, there were in fact two dowel rods, one driven by the servo and one at the other end of the ramp, purely to keep the alignment. Anyway, I read somewhere of a similar design, but using a single brass square-section tube, with another slightly smaller one moving up/down inside it. This inside one would be linked to the servo arm. My thinking is the square section will stop any rotation away from the parallel, and because then I’ll only have a single rod, the conflict in alignment between the two (as previously) won’t be a problem. Bottom line - any suggestions as to how to fill/glue the square tubing inside the round hole. I’m still to decide sizes, but just in case the brass is somewhat smaller than the existing hole, what material might be best to hold it firmly in place. It won’t be visible, as it will be hidden by the Dark brown uncoupler ramp. sorry - long explanation - hopefully simple answer. Ian

My spare room is a mere 11’ 6” x 6’ 6” (approx 3.5m x 2m). On my return to railway modelling a couple of years back, I tried to fit in a layout which filled 2/3 of that space, approx 2m x 2m, including a small access hole in the centre. In the remaining ‘spare’ space, I managed to find a minuscule desk which fitted, as well as a printer. Storage cupboards fitted under the layout board. Should also say that our house is an unusual layout, with 2 bedrooms upstairs and 2 downstairs. This spare room was one of the downstairs ones, which I preferred from an accessibility angle. Result - I found out the hard way that trying to fit both railway and office into too small a space meant that neither worked as intended. Railway was overcrowded with track, lots of crawling about looking for paperwork, and a desk that was always untidy. Solution - hey, hang on, I’m now retired - do I really need an office? Or shall I sit in the lounge with a laptop on my knee when I need it? The layout now occupies the entire room, 2’ wide board around the parameter, with diagonal board across opening door. Still underboard storage but much easier to access. That said, still too much track! I did Initially consider an upstairs spare room alternative, although I have to say, I was the only person in the household doing that considering ....... if you know what I mean. Actually, in any case, the fact that it had two inbuilt wardrobes on different walls, and two low windows on those same walls, plus the entrance door, probably made the usable space less than the downstairs option.

I can normally find such odds and ends on eBay, albeit can involve a lot of browsing.

I’m using the dibond option. I created the layout design in Anyrail, and modified it to best present a suitably spaced out graphic to allow for LEDs and push-buttons etc, as obviously the basic defaults of Anyrail graphics may not be most suitable for a panel. I used a local printer but there are internet options if you google. I simply sent the plan as a pdf, and reproduction was excellent. I used modelrailwaysolutions.co.uk for a laser cut ply control panel, and mounted the dibond on top of it. When drilling for LEDs, one needs to cut larger holes in the ply, so that the LED can mount as intended on the dibond. I perhaps should add that I used DCC Concepts Alpha Switch D system to link the panel to my DCC system in the simplest way, which probably works out same ££ as Megapoints, but for me it was worth it. But of course you can use a more ‘conventional’ approach. Ian

Although not using at present (due to layout rebuild), I used my Prodigy Advance 2 and wifi unit with WiThrottle with iPad and/or iPhone with no problems as have been described earlier in this thread, over about 12 months. Both devices detected other networks but didn’t drop the MRC one.

I’ve read of modellers using a magnet to remotely lift open wagon loads (simulated ‘blocks’ of coal, ore, timber etc) in and out. As my goods yard is not located immediately close to my usual operating position, I’m exploring doing something similar, with a magnet mounted on the end of a short rod, say a couple of feet long. But surely this would need to be an on/off electromagnet, otherwise how would one release the load into the wagon when loading? I’ve seen the electromagnets themselves advertised on eBay, but this would need constructing with rod and battery, and indeed switch. Anyone done this? Any comments most welcome, as don’t want to reinvent the wheel. Ian

we inherited a conservatory with underfloor electric heating when we moved about 3 years ago, and, based on our experience, I wouldn’t rely on that form of heating to heat a garage, unless floor, walls and ceiling are incredibly well insulated. We find we never use it in the conservatory, as it has so little impact on temperature. Yes, I know glass is a terrible insulator, but! In fact we’ve added a 2kw wall connector heater but it’s not cheap to run continuously. Thankfully I have been able to utilise what was my study (3.5 x 2m) as my railway room, so don’t have to suffer temperature variations.

Interesting, especially as I haven’t got as far as considering/placing figures yet. What are the small mounts that some figures are standing on, presumably just for painting purposes?

If you literally mean “one handed”, then look carefully at handsets. One difference in design between various makes is where/how the throttle wheel is sited. On the Prodigy (which I use) it is “horizontal” meaning you have to hold the handset in one hand, and control the wheel with thumb & finger of the other hand. Other makes may have the throttle wheel vertical and inset at 90 degrees, meaning you can control it with the thumb (only) of the same hand as holds the handset. Another aspect which hasn’t been mentioned, and which I think is true of many makes, is having to ‘switch’ between loco control and accessory (Points) control. I find it annoying that the display screen on the Prodigy only shows the loco in use, or the accessory, and then back again. I find that slightly clumsy. For that reason, I have opted to use a (DCC Concepts Alpha-D) LED switch panel for points, so the handset is permanently for loco use. As I say, I think you may find that need to switch between loco-point-loco is common to many makes, but if you think it could be a consideration for you, it may be worth exploring options before making the initial choice.

Not a clue, but try searching on this website, as I quickly (out of curiosity) found this thread which seems relevant....

Gordon, only just caught up with news of your new ‘challenge’. (We swapped thoughts about Dibond panels a while back). Although 2021 starts with this challenge, let’s hope it just gets better and better. regards Ian

Great. I had a very similar problem which didn’t manifest itself until I connected my ADSX points control until, because then the frog power switching was conflicting with the unmodified point blade routing of power. Like you, I had forgot to modify one point! Doh! Took me a similar journey of exploration to identify the issue.

Ok, now I’m not the most experienced modeller but in trying to apply my logic and recently acquired learning, let’s just think this through. 1. there shouldn’t be any continuity between blade and frog, except via the frog power which isn’t connected yet. So it seems to me that first point you thought (and marked on the board) as iffy, probably wasn’t. 2. this point 2 tho has a problem because of the continuity between blade and frog. BUT if there is also continuity between frog and next rail across the insulated gap, that can only mean one of two things. a) either the IRJ is faulty and/or b) there must still be a wired link under the board which is in effect linking the rails the other side of the point with the frog side, albeit a) above must also be true (unless you actually have a feed to the frog end). Adding all that together, I reckon you have 2 faults. After you’ve checked and remedied that point 2 specifically, and not sure if you’ve done this, but I think I would disconnect every dropper from where it connects to bus. So there is no connection between bus and track. Then in sequence, test continuity: 1. Each bus wire from start to end, and across the two wires 2. each rail from start to end, and across the two rails 3. each rail from each side of every IRJ, and across the two rails Its pretty clear where you should have continuity and where you shouldn’t. If anything isn’t correct, it should be identifiable within a section. Good luck. Ian