Jeepy

Hello, Yes, I can understand what you are saying I think!..... Without examining the bearing in close up, perhaps with a magnifier of some sort, I guess that would be a good assumption that the cone starts decreasing in diameter immediately from the top surface of the shoulder, and if a bearing's cone without a shoulder starts decreasing immediately too that does stand to reason that it would shorten the distance between the Two bearings...... Out of interest I may actually examine it, you've got me thinking now! I've just finished painting the various parts on the sprues and I'm waiting for my order of dummy coupling hooks from Wizard, (I intend to use DG couplings) then I will commence assembly but I have certainly taken note of Chas's and your suggestion of attempting a dry assembly first with the shouldered bearings installed, I'm enjoying the learning curve although it does seem to be quite a long one! Thank you for your input, Best wishes, Jim.

Hello, I have recieved a swift and comprehensive reply to my email, apparently when the instructions were written by the previous owner long ago there were fewer choices so it's an ambiguity that needs looking at so I'm told but if you're using 'top hat' bearings the shoulder should sit on top and the type without shoulders should go in flush, great service from a nice chap called Graham 👍. Thank you all for your replies, very helpful and appreciated...... I should've contacted Cambrian in the first place! Best wishes, Jim.

I have sent an email to Cambrian, will let you know what they suggest...... Best wishes, Jim. I'm not sure why you were quoted again in this post Chas..... My incompetence I guess! 😆.

Yes, I think that may well be the case! 😆, thank you! Best wishes, Jim.

Thank you, a dry run with all Four of my hands it will be then! Thank you for your comments on your experiences, Best wishes, Jim.

Ah yes! It might well be, thank you, I shall do so to confirm either way, Cambrian themselves recommend the Alan Gibson wheelsets for the kits so they should know! Good suggestion..... By the way I shall be ordering the waterslide transfers from your good self in due course, not until March though I believe, it'll probably take me at least that long to build them anyway he! He! Best wishes, Jim.

Hello, I'm starting to build a few Cambrian Models 4mm wagon kits, (First time for me!) I have purchased a few packs of Alan Gibson 8 spoke wheelsets with bearings, in the Cambrian instructions they say to fit the bearings 'flush', does this mean 'sinking' the shoulder into the back of the plastic chassis part or installing the bearing so the shoulder is on top but the main part of the bearing is in the hole please? I'm asking because when I eventually attempt to fit the wheelsets will they 'spread the chassis parts out of true if the bearings are installed with the shoulders protruding? I hope this makes sense! Many thanks, Jim.

Bachmann C class and Hornby H class tank, although there is one H class on pre order not been released yet that I'm waiting for so maybe they don't count as they are technically still in production? Thanks, Regards, Jim.

Merry Christmas everyone! Thank you all for a very enjoyable part of the forum, and a very inspirational one too! Keep up the marvellous work. Best wishes for a happy, healthy and productive new Year, Regards, Jim.

Yes, they were usually very smooth riders, they had air bags and yaw dampers on the bogies, it must have been quite a drastic track issue to make one bang and jolt like that. During 'Slippery season' we had to carefully notch-up with the controller handle to try and avoid any slipping when pulling away, although the gearing was high, or low they were quite powerful motors and consequently it took even longer to get up to speed! Cheers, Jim.

Class 442.......we used to call them 'Plastic pigs', they were the only 100 mph stock we had at the time, they used the old REP traction motors and were very high, or is it low geared? Took ages to get them going from a standing start but they did fly eventually! Cheers, Jim.

Another recommendation for a mini heat gun here! I've had it some time now, the Mrs gave it to me when she cleared out her crafting cupboard, it's got a folding metal stand attached to it so you can put it down straight after use and not worry about it making contact with anything while it cools down, Best wishes, Jim.

Thank YOU Andy! 👍, Best wishes, Jim.

One of my all time favourite layouts! I've seen it in action 3 times over the last few years 👍. Best wishes, Jim.

I've got One tube in my 10' x 12' shed 😳....... Plus a lamp on my desk! Best wishes, Jim.

The boiler 'skin' looks surprisingly smooth on Flying Scotsman! Lovely pictures! Regards, Jim.

Hello Tony, Our thoughts are with you, Mo and the rest of your family at what must be a difficult time, Best wishes, Jim.

Great work Laurie, what an imagination!!........ I especially love the converted galleon, smashing! Regards, Jim.

Thank you Jol, That makes sense, making them slightly longer so they bend with the arc of the roof, and then i expect it's just a case of 'gently does it' when tightening the bolts....... Great stuff! Best wishes, Jim.

Hello Jol, Could i ask please? Do the rectangles you describe go across the underside of the roof from flange to flange and if so do they flex when you tighten the bolt up through the floor or are they of sufficient thickness to be quite stiff? Or maybe fixed in the middle too? Thank you, Best wishes, Jim.

Thank you Iain, very well explained..... Keep up the lovely work! Best wishes, Jim.

Yes, seems incredible really, quite interesting! Best wishes, Jim.

Thank you Tony, and Mo for your hospitality too, lovely to meet you both, and Jilly! I had a smashing time, what an inspiration today has been for me! You've certainly given me some food for thought about my EM project too regarding Shortlands Junction. The journey back was trouble free, what a lovely part of the world you live in! Best wishes, Jim.

Good morning Iain, Lovely work! I for one am certainly interested in seeing models in the process of building as i have yet to embark on two Roxey kits i have that will represent a 2-car pull-push set of the type used on the Allhallows-on-sea branch line in the early to mid 1950's on the South Eastern. I am a complete novice as far as building etched brass kits go but i have had a little dabble with purely whitemetal 1/76 bus kits with some success in the past and i am enjoying the learning process of working with brass by experimenting here and there with scrap bits! Keep up the fantastic work everyone, I'm watching avidly and picking up tips on the way! Kind regards, Jim.

Hello John, I don't know if this helps but may give a rough idea! When I've purchased timber from my local timber merchants for building decking for the garden etc the longest whole lengths of any size of timber they could supply seemed to be 5.3 Metres, wether that was for the framework or the deck boards. I always tried to have the least amount of joins possible! That's going by today's standards of course and I'm guessing in the period you're modelling it would have been Feet and Inches, i expect it also depends on the type of tree it was 'hewn' from at the saw mill and the longest straight lengths they could get from the trunk, just some thoughts that's all! Best wishes, Jim.