Jim Easterbrook

Yes, it does sound as if the heat from normal operation could be the problem. But I'd have expected an increase in current (which would cause an increase in heat) when the track voltage drops.

Have you compared the current being drawn by "good" and "bad" locos?

Oh yes, I bought those two sets and the accessory pack of close couplings and diaphragms. (Memory like a sieve these days.) Every item I've bought since however...

I think every Kato RhB item I've bought has had the alternative couplers supplied in the box. (I.e. Rapido in the box if Kato close couplers fitted and vice versa.)

The "spare" light grey couplers are to convert the coaches you couple to your Allegra, if they don't already have Scharfenberg couplers. They have the little spigot for a coil spring to be seated on. The dark grey couplers for the Allegra don't have the spigot as they use a leaf spring.

A few more pictures... Light guide snapped in the correct place. Installing lighting in Kato RhB EW-I coaches by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr Installed. Installing lighting in Kato RhB EW-I coaches by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr Excessive light shining through coach end doors. Installing lighting in Kato RhB EW-I coaches by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr Light spill reduced... Installing lighting in Kato RhB EW-I coaches by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr ...by taping over the end of the light guide. Installing lighting in Kato RhB EW-I coaches by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr (I tried aluminium tape instead of black insulating tape to see if it would reflect a bit of light and make the dim end of the coach brighter. It didn't have any noticeable effect.)

Me too. After reading your post on the matter.

Another EW1 vs RhB wagon height comparison. MDS Rhätische Bahn wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr The GEX carriage is quite a bit taller. MDS Rhätische Bahn wagons by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr

So has mine - I'm managing with just the one.

Wow! Working lights! I didn't even think about going that far.

Hi Jon, Not a limiting step yet - I always take a lot longer to get to the next stage of any project than I expect at first. I'd also like to help make up the numbers for an initial "bulk" order when that happens. PS I've been disappointed by the quality of B&Q ply, and found Champion to be rather better.

Shouldn't be a problem. Each cab/throttle has its own address and only responds when the controller polls that address. The controller remembers the state of each cab/throttle separately, so will associate each key press as it happens with the correct cab/throttle.

Where are we at with this idea? I'd really like to have some end plates in my hands before I start cutting wood to make my first module.

More straightforward and more correct. Curved arches would have unsupported bits on the inner sides and outer top. These would fall down, leaving you with straight arches.

I take that site's matches with a pinch of salt, after getting some pretty strange results for RAL 2009 "traffic orange".

That picture of the outside curve answers the question, I think. It shows the top of the arch to be the same distance below the top as on the inside. The arches therefore must be the same width on the inside and outside, so the piers must be wedge shaped.

Note that each individual arch is straight, unlike many commercially available model curved bridges.

Roll out the barrel.

Your wish is my command. Here's a Flickr album I prepared earlier: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmSfcxyZ

Has anyone else done the arithmetic on a recent eBay purchase from EU to UK? My last one, a 2nd hand loco from a German seller (with over 2000 current listings, so I assume a business) had this breakdown: Price €67.22 Postage €11.00 VAT €12.77 Total charged to PayPal €90.99 The label was marked VAT paid, so I didn't pay any further VAT or handling fees. (And delivery by DHL/RM was nice and quick.) A bit later I noticed that €12.77 is 19% of €67.22, which looks like German VAT. I thought eBay were supposed to charge 20% on price and postage.

I used "tester" pots of three different stains I got on ebay. "WooDeeDoo" brand, rosewood, Danish teak, and dark oak colours. I'm happy with the result. te-miniatur Rueun station kit by Jim Easterbrook, on Flickr

Yup, labelling each corner, or the bit each side of the track for odd shaped modules, seems best to me. Then they just go together like dominoes.

My initial efforts at construction would use flat and gentle slope profiles. I'd certainly want 4 flats to start with, and subsequently 4 more flats and 4 gentle slope if my first efforts go well. What ballpark price do we expect each one to be?

Thanks for explaining your reasoning and showing before and after pictures. It really helps a novice like me to get some idea of what I'll need to think about when (and if) I ever get round to building a layout.

I agree. There's little point to having long trains if we don't ever see the full length.