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Mountain Goat

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Everything posted by Mountain Goat

  1. I have a book published not long after the war in 1948 and it is about building model railway rolling stock in 4mm scale. Finescale modelling back in the 1930's in 4mm scale using 18mm gauge was quite well known about back then. The book even describes an early coupling along with split one sided versions using the same basic principles which is very similar to the tension lock coupling that is commonly found today. As far as I can gather Hornby had planned to produce a scale of half 0 gauge which would have been H0, but they struggled to get motors to fit so they slightly enlarged the bodies to 4mm scale and this was the start of what we now call 00. (Be aware that I am going by what I have been told happened). But for finescale modellers, what later became known as EM was very much present back in the 1930's with quite a few cottage industries which had been set up to aid modellers in scratchbuilding in this scale. Ready to run was actually rare in these smaller sizes until Trix and Hornby decided to give it a go. Trix was a little more toylike at first but Hornby was in its day fairly accurate apart from running on 3 rail. Incidently the pre war 4mm scale modellers did use two rail with handmade track. Rails were available for modellers to build their own track. It is really surprizing what was available back then. The only slightly unusual (Unusual in that they quickly became popular) was the popularity of the Peco coupling which if anything took over from the handmade examples of the tension lock type of design. Here is a picture of a diagram straight from the book which demonstrates the coupings viewed from above.
  2. I like the blinds that hide the motor on the lower middle picture (3rd picture down). It is not often one will see this on the prototype.
  3. You know where you change scale and you end up with lots of stock that no one really wants, so it is either let them go for silly prices, or take drastic action? Uhmmm. Well, this is something along those lines. I have a rake of six immaculate boxed never even used Hornby grain wagons, along with a seventh older Triang/Hornby battered version of the same design, so as I was not sure how this was going to work out, I decided to start working on the battered version first. As a guide, I took out a previous 7mm NG conversion of a battery operated toy trainset bogie wagon (Now a 4 wheeled NG waggon after the conversion) to have an idea of what I wanted this grain wagon to end up looking like. Then I removed the roof. Eventually after removing anything that reminds me of its former scale, we have a body that looks something like this... And though it is far from finished yet, it shows a promising narrow gauge conversion.
  4. Though I realize that you may have already made your coupling choice, I thought I would add to this thread to say that it is not as difficult as one may think to make ones own couplings if needed.
  5. After revisiting a thread on this site and I really do care about the people facing difficulties on all sides, I am writing this. Not because anyone has told me to write it, but because I think it is a good idea, so moderators, if you think it is not a good idea to write this then feel free to delete it. This is not a blame thread. It is meant to be a practical and informative thread and as I write this it may already be out of date but I will write it anyway. Model railway shops that provide a mail order service have been experiencing a tremendous amount of trade due to lockdowns and the amount of extra people taking up the hobby, which is good as this is an excellent hobby to be involved in (And anyone who thinks they can't afford this hobby or thinks they don't have the room, there are ways round this... Please ask). As far as I am aware, the difficulties many are or have been facing are twofold. First due to the restrictions they are unable to recruit more staff (And if they could, new staff need to be trained and one needs to have the time to train and monitor them so it is not an easy task at all). The second reason is that supplies of new models and equipment has been exceedingly slow into the country both due to the lockdown and due to the EU to UK boarders with extra delays. Though most of you already know this, be patient and be aware that quite a few shops are struggling. Also be aware that the staff in these shops are under tremendous pressure so be aware of this. I have no direct connection in the trade, but having worked in other retail teades in the past on and off for many years, I know how much pressure staff and managers and shop owners can be under. I also realize that when one places an order for a costly piece of equipment and the payment has gone through but the order has not arrived, that it can be mightily frustrating, especially if one is not able to get in touch with the store so you do have my sympathies there as well. May I suggest as a temporary solution for some, especially newer members into this hobby is to buy secondhand just until all goes back to normal and maybe it is a good idea for those of us who have been in the hobby for a considerable time to have a spring clean and let some of our surplus stuff go for sale? This will help the hobby cope with the demands placed upon it and keep new members and older members happy? (I am not saying you must do this. I am only saying that if you do happen to have surplus items that you don't need and are willing to part with that this is probably a good time to sell them. Just make sure it is not something you may need again later!) There are several online secondhand model railway traders out there and I use one myself on occasions and have picked up a few interesting items ripe for conversion into 7mm narrow gauge which is the gauge and scale I am now modelling in. I will also say that those who are having a spring clean, just because the items you may have found spare may not seem to be of use to anyone, does not mean that you are right, as I have recently found people wanting bits and pieces I have which are just what they need! Examples are a pair of rather battered Triang 00 gauge brake van bodies with what was left of their roofs (I had previously used the chassis for 7mm NG use). Well... I just so happened to see a modeller who had converted one of these into a fantastic 009 scale brakevan on another site and it really looked the part! I asked if he needed any more of them and he was delighted to know I had them spare. Ideal! I get to de-clutter and he gets his next projects to work on.
  6. I can sometimes be switching between projects as my mind follows possibilities. Some projects are started just to find out what is feasable or/and possible, and this next one is along those lines... I am attempting to find out if I can make a new sturdy chassis instead of a flimsy one I bought cheap from a toy and train fair several years ago. So far I am in the stage of marking out so I am kinda making it up as I go along... If it does not work I have not lost out. I do not currently know what the end result will be used for as yet! We shall see. First see if I can make it work. Yes. I know. Wheels, crank pins and bits and pieces everywhere! And I forgot to say. It was an 0-6-0 and I am planning on making it an 0-4-0 instead.
  7. Having a slightly lower roof line it almost looks like an ex. BP&GV Rly coach. I believe at least one of these was later used in the Cardiff Valleys area after passenger operations ceased on the BP&GV. One can usually tell as their roofs had to be 10 inches lower then ordinary coaching stock to fit under the railway bridges.
  8. Rather then making a model version of a prototype, it looks like they made a prototype from a model that one of us has made on this thread. (I say this using my sense of humour. I actually love the creative efforts that we make). I can imagine using a rescued Airfix chassis and several days later with the help of some old biscuit tin and some rear wheels from ones spare parts box and voila! .... It even looks like I have made the nameplates!
  9. Now that just has to have the earlier super fast versions of the chassis fited underneath it!
  10. What do you get if you walk under a cow? A pat on the head.
  11. Just out of interest, are the ViTrains class 37 chassis easily available new or was it obtained secondhand? I am out of touch with these things. The CD drive to pull 8 coaches is promising especially up an incline, which is about the limit of a Lima motor, so if one can get one just like that one it is ideal! Has anyone ever replaced the gears with metal gears (Just out of curiosity).
  12. For a DMU, the CD motors will be excellent. Ideal. But if one wanted it for something like a Western or a class 47 or a 37, then one could be dissapointed. Someone did mention somewhere once that there was a type of CD style motor available that had windings designed for torque? They are rare though. To the origional poster. If you have a Lima DMU and want to try a CD motor drive, try it on the DMU first as the DMU does not need to haul much. Test it pulling an ordinary rake of coaches to see if it is suitable for pulling more. If it is and you are happy with how much the motor can pull, then try a class 37 or 47 conversion. I say to try a DMU first simply because the motor will cope with a DMU as they are either 1, 2 or 3 car sets, so if the motors lack torque, it is not going to be an issue. I do wish you success if you decide to try such a conversion. I agree that in an ideal world, if one can buy Vi-Trains chassis at a reasonable price it is a good option to go for. If it is pulling power one wants, putting two motorbogies in one loco has been done before, but both need to be equally matched. I once tried two Ringfields mounted in a HST buffet car and it did not work because though they were the exact same motors, one pulled much faster then the other and so I had issues with the thing coming off the track. Had they moth been more equally matched it may have worked better. For experimenting, always buy the cheapest scrappiest locos as that way, if it does not work, one has not lost out.
  13. My take on this through practical experience is that Hornby Ringfield motors ran quieter but they were never as strong pullers as Lima pancake motors were. If a Hornby class 47 would manage 8 coaches, the Lima equivalent would manage 10 or more. This may seem more then many Lima diesels will pull but this is because their traction tyres go hard with age. If one has a good set of traction tyres and a rake of free running Lima Mk1's, they will pull 10 coaches. The only time I had a Hornby Ringfield model match a Lima Pancake model in regards to its pulling power was when I was testing all my locos to see what they would pull, and both these locos were the Hornby and Lima tender driven king class locos. These both pulled 45 wagons on the flat. (I used wagons in my test. Both were equal. Any more and they would slip and not be able to bring the train up to speed).
  14. These run ultra smooth but they lack torque so they may struggle to pull anything other then a few coaches. Ideal for a loco depot type of layout but to me, a nice Lima diesel at the head of a 10 or 12 coach express running at speed is what they are all about. The lovely sound of the motors when one does this. There is nothing like it!
  15. I can also agree as I have had some which are a delight to run where if someone says "Lima can never match the modern models out these days" I have to say "Yes they can" as if they have watched while I have tried a few of mine they would see what I mean. (What gets me is when people point blank refuse to admit that it is possible for Lima locos to run well). The key is perserverance and making minor adjustments just in the right places... An example is that I had bought a secondhand Lima class 09 which was not running at all well. I spent a lot of time carefully adjusting and cleaning and it then ran for several years like a dream! Then I used the chassis for fitting under a Smallbrook Studios Cadera kit, which needs significent work both to the kit and the chassis, and the thing does not run too well again, so I am going to need to spend time on it again. I believe if I can adjust the gear spring plate it should do the trick as often these either press too hard or rub etc. It requires patience to get it right, but when it is right, it runs well. I am wondering if the gears can be re-made out of metal? If this will make them even better?
  16. I could have been killed through the actions of a formula 1 racing driver who was testing his car at very high speed on the public road. I was out cycling on a long straight road and he came along at speeds that had to be 150 or more MPH in a red Countash.. Yes he left me room when he overtook but after about three seconds when he had almost dissapeared about half a mile ahead, the wind hit me that his car had made, and I suddenly found myself on the other side of the road facing oncoming traffic and it was all so sudden. If I wasn't so young and quick minded I would have come to grief.
  17. I believe that the Hornby version was improved compared to the Airfix ones which needed stronger pick up springs.
  18. I put the laughing smily thing on because you asked if I was a Blue Peter presenter. No, sorry. I watched it as a child.
  19. Thanks. Was due to circumstances where 00 gauge started to become out of reach that I made the change. Narrow gauge in 7mm scale is ideal for budget modelling!
  20. will go back to the coaches again. In my spares and everything else collection I had this Jouef Playcraft bogie tanker which would just sit there for many more years if I do not use it. I had already worked on a lovely Playcraft van with opening doors by changing the couplings, adding stirling weights and new wheels, and I sent it to a new owner who loves it... But this tanker... Well. It shows potential. So the first job was to dissasemble and disect it and file off any parts I did not need. Cut it into sections and add DAS modelling clay. I also coated the clay with runny superglue while I was working on filing the ends. So that is as far as I have got so far...
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