Jump to content
 

Timber

Members
  • Posts

    470
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Timber

  1. I then decided to increase the locomotive weight by using a Hornby X7098 motor. It has an Iron Core and is considerably heavier than the High Level motor.
  2. Thank you Stephen. In my experience all of High Level Models components are excellent and the customer service superb. That said I have made some adjustments to the engine. Something that included a motor swap. What I was finding was that no matter how well I could get the engine to run from the centre axle, it simply performed better when driven from the front or rear. With the centre axle I was pulling one wheel and pushing the other but from the rear everything was working in the same direction. Probably my poor modelling but that was what was happening. Rather than build something I was not happy with I have changed the design to run the locomotove off the rear axle. To achieve this I used a High Level HiFlyer Plus gear box
  3. Less than an hour later I have a working engine. It is a bit lumpy but this should fix itself once run in, Next step is to rework the etchings required to finish.
  4. Further enhancements to the design prior to taking another print this afternoon. I am following Rob's advice and simply top up the Vat rather than keep cleaning. It is a much better way of working, saving time and reducing the risk of resin spilling. I am also finding it helpful to lift the model much higher off the printer build plate, It is then easier to remove the print. With the additional space between the plate and print, I can use a razor saw to cut the supports off the raft and then carefully remove them after that,
  5. I want to make three of these engines, Nos 58,35 and 49. I will probable take a break from MWs after that but maybe a K Class in the future.
  6. High Level Gearbox and a High Level motor are used to power the locomotive. I have used a few of these motors and they are exceptionally powerful for their size,
  7. Yes rivets are on the tank. Just noticed that I need two central columns of rivets rather than the one that I currently have. This is easily changed. My rivets may also be a little too big but I can easily make these smaller as I finish up
  8. Thank you - This is the resin https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGOO-Washable-Printer-Translucent-Fast-Curing/dp/B08T19DTYS/ref=sr_1_5?crid=LO72CKHU295R&keywords=elegoo%2Bresin%2Bgreen&qid=1654446413&sprefix=elegoo%2Bresin%2Bgree%2Caps%2C65&sr=8-5&th=1
  9. Another member asked me about the chimney. There appeared to be a number of differenty chimney types. This is the one I am copying. Maybe on my model the bottom collar is too high and the top too low. I will adjust for the next print,
  10. Thank you Rosedale. I now have the connecting rods sorted and have been advised by one of our more experienced 3D printing members to try the green water washable resin. It is amazing. Almost too good as it is highlighting some errors in my artwork. On this model I have opened out the front and rear bearings so that there is a little bit of vertical play downwards. A small spring wire above will offer some simple compensation. The resin is really hard - I cannot imagine an axle wearing this out any time soon. Tomorrow I will print the version for the metal chassis.
  11. Waiting on new etches for the connecting rods and to print some new wheel centres . Originally I had a simple compensation system but took this feature out to help get to the bottom of what was causing the binding. Once the new connecting rods are proven I will reintroduce the compensation. That said the engine runs well on a fixed chassis, the EM profile Ultrascale wheels seem to work well.
  12. The motor is accessed via the saddle, it is now a clip fit.
  13. Started to add some details this evening...
  14. The connecting rods are modified to fix the binding issue. Once proven I will send for a fresh set, Push on now to fit some of the more detailing.
  15. 3D prints were an improvement. I have located the binding problem to the connecting rods .....once i have a working model I will go back and try and improve the print quality. But for now better to build something and find all the snags than keep messing around with the print.
  16. Once I have a stable model that works I will post the STLs in the thread so that others can reuse,
  17. This is by far the most complex piece of Fusion 360 work I have attempted and I have learnt a massive amount in the process. I have tried to keep the build structured into components, have constrained everything that I can constrain and added comments so that I can remember how the drawing is created. That said I have still struggled with the stability of the design. This is not a failing in Fusion 360, it is simply my design evolving, sometimes not in the most ellegate way. Where possible I have gone back and simplified sections but at some point I will go through the whole design end to end and reorder some of the construction. This is the latest design that I plan to print over the weekend,
  18. This thread will document the building of the above engine. This is still work in progress but hopefully by starting this thread it will motivate me to finish the build. I am trying to achieve a few things here: Add to my collection of S Scale Brecon and Merthyr locomotives, the B&M had three of these locomotives Make a locomotive that can be taken straight off the 3D printer and built in a few hours Make a more sophisticated engine that has an integrated etched frame. So this is where I am up to, I have a working prototype that has a few defects: Cab dimensions are wrong so have now been corrected The connecting rods are binding in forward, the engine runs nicely in reverse but binding (slightly) when going forward,
  19. Having shared my pain on the "whats on your printer" section of RMWeb, I am back here now with a finished print. I have the MW printed body with an integrated chassis plus a seperate etched chassis. I want to pursue trying to make a printed chassis work but if this proves to be a non starter, I can revert to etch. The saddle will be printed seperately and sit between the two "wings" on the bolier, being held in place with a micro magnet. I will print this seperately along with some new wheels. The print is of modest standard compared to some that have been shared in this section of RMWeb - but it is more than I would have wished for this time last week when I was struggling with the basics. The notch at the back of the smokebox is for the bracket that connects the saddle to the body, this is part of the saddle print.
  20. Seems to be heading in a better direction.....I reprinted the chassis ...now I have this in better shape I will apply the same techniques to the integrated chassis and body.
×
×
  • Create New...