Timber

Thanks will try the attached tonight. The good news is that it is not warping. I set the exposure time on the slicer to 6 seconds. It was 2.7 on the earlier model - but the rivet detail was lost. Maybe I will recalibrate to 3.5. The Elegroo data sheet says 6 but other blogs on the web have suggested lower.

I think that I over exposed and there are now too many supports.....i wrecked the print removing them all. Do you remove the supports before you cure? Try again with somewhere in the middle.

Given that I have 13 hours to kill, I put my wobbly print together. It is as light as a feather but it has a bit of puff in it.

Thanks for all the support (pardon the pun :-)) - this is what is on the printer at the moment. It is going to take 13 hours to print but a first peep as it moves above the resin is that it looks better.

thanks - will try this tomorrow....

These are the settings I am using on the slicer.... Thanks in advance.

Last night I had a go at reprinting the MW I class. Looks OK from the top but the footplate and saddle are warped at the side. Any clues. The only "lever" I can think to pull is the exposure time. But will this increase or decrease the risk of warping? There are plenty of supports so not sure that is the issue?

I agree with Rob, the finish looks superb.

Last night I reprinted the chassis. I did not clean the resin so the detail suffered. But the adjustments I made worked. If possible I would like to create a model that anyone new joining the society who just needed a basic loco could use these prints. Nothing fancy but something that can be built in a weekend rather than several months. Front wheel wobbles as I dropped the model just before the video was made.

Yes - i have an etch and the 3D parts. With every model my Fusion skills are getting better so rather than improve old artwork I have taken the time to completely redraw. More work to do on the cab, bunker and chassis but this is the integrated artwork. Once complete I will put the STLs in this area of RMWeb.

Rob and thank you for your help. The frames are very square. No warping that I can make out. I am printing again tonight with medium supports.

Possibly but I am keen to explore using plastic. It goes like a rocket - but at the moment a wobbly rocket.

The connecting rods are etches and this is where I encountered a small challenge. Resin shrinks and I compensated with 3% shrinkage. But I am not sure that this was required. The axles fit really snug but the connecting rods are a little long. I have some spares so simply cut and soldered pairs together to fit. I put it on the track and it works pretty well. The challenge is that it is so light that there is very little garvitational effect. The consequence is that this model rocks a little. But the chassis is very true and given how easy this construction method it feels that it deserves a bit of extra effort before I give up. So I have redesigned the chassis limiting the vertical axle movement - will see if this improves operation.

To keep this model really simple I decided to run the axles in the 3D printed resin. The resin is pretty tough and very smooth. I elongated the holes slightly to alow a little vertical movement. Pickups are pogo plungers that simply push in. The motor and gear box are high level. The gearbox I had pre built - but the whole construction took less then one hour this evening.

Past 12 months or so I have been working on making a kit for a manning wardle old class I. Varing degrees of success using a mix of 3D and etched components. However, on such a small loco I keep comming back to the challenge as to whether it would be possible to make a complete 3D printed loco, included a 3D printed chassis. Others have achieved this but i am interested to see if I have the skills to do this for myself. I have drawn most of the loco in Fusion 360 but before I go too far I want to experiment with a chassis. So I logged onto Amazon and purchased a resin printer. First couple of prints were a disaster. But following email and telephone coaching from some other members I woke up this morning and found a perfectly formed chassis with integrated boiler on my build plate. A quick wash and cure then this evening I started to see if the chassis can be made to run.

I have started to reapply my pictures. Not got to this thread yet but will do very soon.

these look really nice.

Amazing!

That has come out OK. Attaching an STL. Anyone interested can mesh this together to make a larger roof section. I will work on the other sides first and then come back to the roof when I have the overall dimensions worked out. STL location.... https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eTtI8_sYVauoKuayOH8M8VgYV4SpXJzO/view?usp=sharing

This is a Tinkercad slate roof I have drawn up- I will see what this prints up like before drawing the complete roof..

All, I need some help please. Not living close to wales, I am attempting to model the B&M. I am building a goods shed. Can someone please guide me on the stone colour that would have been used on the B&M in the Brecon area....is the attached too light, not brown enough etc... All help gratefully received.

Off the printer - the lose stones on the edges are intentional......I am sure that the B&M did not spend too much time repointing their goods sheds. Here is the link to the STL https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g_zTGBjTH4cWNgQ6_ngR3fAGmTppwzpI/view?usp=sharing

Bored with ballasting i decided to make a Goods Shed. It is not based on any specific prototype but i have tried to capture the architectural features employed by the B&M. I have drawn this in Tinkercad and will print on my Filament printer. I am making the walls etc as seperate pieces and will glue together at the end. As with my engines I will share the STL files but this is probably a bit early in design to share too widely.

I have started to ballast. Its been a while since I have ballasted track and I had to remind myself how not to mess up the track. I tried a few different ballast types and settled on a Hornby product. I liked the colour it took after the PVA had been applied and by varying the PVA strength it takes a different colour as I tackle each section. The sleepers I stained with dark oak and then gave a grey wash to make them stand out as sun dried oak. The side of the rails have picked up the wood dye which will remove the need to seperately paint. On the picture below there are a few pieces of ballast to pick out but that can be done in time.