Timber

It is a high level LoLoader- i am not sure it will support 0 gauge axles...high level will support up to 3mm axles. I am driving the rear axle but i may change this to drive the centre axle using one of high level drive extenders....i may also make the firebox a little longer by 0.5mm as the worm wheel is right up against the inside face......i would rather sacrifice a little bit of accuracy for a more consistant performance. ......btw to others reading this post and interested in this loco - take a look at jbd82 posts on the MW he is building......it is a very good thread - some superb artwork and model making.

More progress on the manning wardle i class......still very rough artwork. Now at a point where i will pause for breath and refresh the artwork to a higher standard, Hopefully will add the brakes tonight. Lots of errors - headstocks too low, axles a little low in the chassis, lots of detail missing but these are things that will be fixed in the next version of the artwork.

These are really nice models....

show - it will take a few more iterations to finish....

I have been messing around with the Manning Wardle for a while now, trying to get something finished for our October meeting. The latest set of etches should be back with me next week. The 3D prints are starting to take shape. These are still basic forms with no rivets or special detail. Adding detail is relatively easy, getting the motor to fit nicely in a small boiler has been more of a challenge. The etches will include the fabric to make the boiler and smokebox etc but for now the 3D printing for now is quicker and easier to get the basics worked out. Anyway here are a few photos of the body parts with painted chassis and wheels..

Small tube of Vallejo matt black paint arived via amazon and it really is nice paint, I will try some other colours but the coverage and consistency is superb. I have not tried every brand, there may be some better ones out there but this is very good. Just the help i needed - thank you.

thank you both - i will give this a try,

quick question....I am trying to move to only using acrylic paints......mainly because I have found a good acrylic vanish and do not want to risk any contamination from applying acrylic on top of enamel (tests suggests that it works but I dont want to take any risks). For "shaky cans" I use Rustoleum but their small jars of brush acrylic paints are limited in colour choices...Humbrol acrylic is ok but was wondering if anyone is using anything else? It is specifically for brush work and not for spraying where I have the gap. Many thanks in advance,

Looked again. JDB is correct. Lovely job.

wow amazing work. The additional 3D printed inner hornblocks is a nice touch. I will be interested to see how the boiler fits within the chassis. On my drawing (something that is probably incorrect) the boiler appears to sit below the top of the frames....interested in your perspective on this. really nice work.

The society has some nice brass Manning Wardle wheels...here are some with plastic centres should anyone be interested in using pickups rather than split axle

I use super glue...I spray paint the wheel and after a couple of hours run a bead of superglue around the rim and then push together....I find that the glue softens the paint and it makes a very strong bond. Another member who I made some wheels for used Araldite and this worked fine. I have templates now for society tyres, ultrascale tyres, alan gibson tyres and scalelink tyres, With gibsons and scalelink you have to buy the wheel and push the centres out. Our society tyres are the best as they have a nice front rim that offers additional strength. There is a clip on "what is on your workbench" of a saddle tank running with 3D printed wheels and society tyres, You will see that it runs nice and smoothly. Any assembly where the axle comes from one supplied, the wheels printed by another fitting to a tyre made by a third supplier all with their own tollerances is never going to be geometrically perfect. But that applies to anything that is not machined as one piece. However, I find that our society track standards are actually very forgiving and I am running a mix of all the above tyres through some rather dodgy point work without unexpected derailments. I have just made some Manning Wardle wheels to run with Scalelink tyres I will publish a picture once i have them painted. I am using Scalelink tyres for these small wheels because while we do have a society tyre that would do the job I use pickups rather than split axles and for these small diameters our society tyres engineered to prototype standards have less metal contact with the pickups.

wheels are scalelink to be replaced with the correct 3d printed profile at some point in the future.

Foollowing our zoom meeting earlier in the week I thought I would share some photos of the Manning Wardle old I class etches and prints.....lots more to do but some progress.

superb - what cad tool did you use for the etch. I also noticed that you are using 0.3mm NS, any particular reason for this.....i have always used 0.45mm but there was no science behind that decision. The castings are excellent......really nice and clean.

The quality of these pieces is amazing......really nice job.

Finished coach...I use Subuteo supporters for passengers. They can be picked up on ebay for a reasonable price. I finished in Brecon and Merthyr livery rather than Cambrian. Throughout the history of the two companies there were frequent disputes over ownership. The B&M appeared to borrow stock from other companies and moved it to parts of their network where it was unlikely to be spotted. I also finished with spoked wheels as the early B&M coaches had the same. Post a test build the parts will be available if anyone is interested.

Waiting for top coats.....the tyres are protected with liquid mask.

Scott - yes these can be printed on a filament printer for a few pennies so if any members need one for their project then happy to help. The roof and axleboxes are printed via Shapeways as they need a better finish than I can achieve at home.

The roof can either be the etch on the kit or a 3D printed roof. Oil lamps are a seperate print and will be added later. I originally made a roof with the oil lamps as part of the print but they really need to be printed with two different types of plastic hence why I decided to seperate.

Araldite is the applied to the sides of the 3D print and the body held in a vice overnight.

The interior is placed inside the coach and drilled though the fixing holes in the base of the coach. It is then held in place together with the V hang Uploaded Images er by 4 6BA bolts. The V hanger sits closest to the end with no steps,

Fitting the interior will also require fitting the etched V hanger, This is cut from the etch and the Vs folded so that it slots within the chassis.

The 3D printed interior is designed to hold the body shape and allow space for glazing. Once fitted and glazing in place the seat ends can be blended to the side of the coach with plastic filler.

Finally a cosmetic front is added to the solebar. It may require a little adjustment of the legs to align the etch to the legs. But I like this feature as it keeps the solebars nice and clean. I use a contact adhesive, evostick or something similar to hold this in place and push it home with a small glass fibre brush.