railroadbill

It's on page 108, this thread hasn't half moved on!! Excellent loco, weathering looks very effective so that would save a lot of hassle with that multi-curved lining. Might also cover up my cutting off of handrails as well without having to respray the whole loco to match. I agree with what you said in that post as well, that GBL or similar ie using old locos from exhibitions or e-bay etc does allow you do do some quite satisfactory modelling for a reasonable price as well. I've got some soot (tamiya) and perhaps a thin dirty black wash (filter) might help, so worth a go. Shame about Geoff (of comet) as well.

Thanks for that. Think the 4mt was one of their better ones, looked more like the prototype than the N2 for example. I've actually got a small amount of H-D 3-rail stuff, from when I was 7 (or something like that!) so maybe I should have another 3 rail loco. Somewhere on RMW I've seen a layout (fine scale 2 rail) with a H-D 3 rail separate layout running round the wall above it and which looked rather good running. There was a very large 3 rail layout at Ally Pally this year which also made me think I should set the track out again. Ho hum. Alternatively 2 rail would let me run 4mt as a sort of retro model round the 2 rail layout. Definitely going to look out for a chassis now. Bill

Well. I haven't received the 4 GBL mags I ordered yet, but it's only a week so far. In the meantime, here's where I am with the 4MT tank. The nearer is the GBL body, the other is a Wrenn 4mt which I bought years ago as a spare body. It even came in the correct Wrenn box, together with a set of Peco style couplings. I bought a Comet chassis kit, but never got any further. The comet frames fit the GBL body ok, so I now intend to use the kit chassis when built with the GBL body instead and keep the Wrenn one as it is, and look for a suitable genuine chassis to do up. If so I'd have a "new" wrenn loco to run. Being influenced by Sarahagain's Tri-ang 3mt tanks. The 2 bodies are actually much the same shape so either could be used for an ok model. The GBL lining is a strange colour though so it will need repainting (after proper handrails fitted) and relining. The buffers are Bachmann sprung oval head, part 36-031, however the Hornby class 31 metal ones people used earlier in this thread do look better. So that's as far as the 4mt has gone.

Looks very good. I've just cleaned up an old tender drive Hornby A4 that hadn't been out the box for many years and it now runs surprisingly well so I'm thinking that the tender drive conversion that you've done would make a loco that runs satisfactorily.

Fixed etched plates to CoN with matt varnish as suggested somewhere above, sorry, can't find actual post. They fixed well and I had time to adjust them properly as well. Used superglue before but this seems better. Did one side than let it dry before other side. Looks good, extra lining and correct numbers/letters next. Loco still runs very well, no problems. While I was sticking on the plates, I had my trusty old Jamieson V2 running round to lend a bit of LNER flavour. It occurs to me that the best motor for an LNER model is of course a Romford Bulldog.

Sorry for delayed reply Phil, but life, new grand daughter etc etc has rather got in the way! I fitted an ESU loksound V4 chip with legomanbiffo sound files (from DCkits who were very helpful with advice about fitting it). I thought I'd try the chip before doing any body mods to the loco so it's still out as of the box 47 148. I reduced the volume since loco runs in the loft. Loco runs very well with the chip and the "engine note" can be revved up and down with the throttle easily. The settings make the loco feel heavy, taking enough time to accelerate and brake. You can really "drive" it. So very pleased with how the chip is programmed and intend to get one for Bachmann 37 which is next on the list. Great fun. The 47 ran very well on DC before being chipped. Better than my first Bachmann 47, 2 tone green, which had the bogie pivot screws far too tight and also suffered from the problem of the centre bogie wheels being lower than the outer ones, hence frequent derailments. But that one's alright now. 47 148 was fine from the beginning though. Problem now is what identity/condition the loco should be. Like previous posters, I'd really like a domino/tops one (loco sometimes runs on friend's layout which is definitely later TOPS era so to be historically accurate....) So my first thought is to fit serck radiator shutters (as has been done before on RMweb). But for the moment it will have to go on looking different. And perhaps it should. (Of course if the green one with serck rads was to be sprayed blue and the 3 fixed grill one was green, but that's just being ott!) Look out for a 47035 and swap bodies then renumber may well be the eventual way to go but I'm guessing from this thread that they are going to be popular! Bill

Well I've got through the first stage by actually placing an order. Thought it might have been like creeping past the black gates of Mordor with Frodo and Sam, but actually ok. If I eventually get the locos then great, if they never turn up then at least I can query the payment with the credit card company. Malcolm got his locos so I live in hope. Plenty to be getting on with before these turn up, anyway... I've been following your excellent P2 conversions (on the Hornby P2 thread) and it's occurred to me that by cutting the front, and the firebox/cab off an A4 and fitting the right sized tube as a boiler, it could be possible to make a streamline nose P2 body without needing the Hornby P2. Would need a scratch built chassis of course, but the Hornby one needs different valve gear for the later locos anyway. Or perhaps chassis spares will be available. With a GBL A4 coming my way (hopefully) it might be worth a go. But not yet sure if A4/P2 cabs/front were exactly the same anyway. Research needed. Otherwise intend to try GBL A4 on an old Hornby tender drive chassis, which I've dug out of "the back of the engine shed" and got running ok. Bill

Now got my CoN etched nameplates (modelmaster), going to try using matt vanish to fix them, as suggested (sorry can't remember who by) earlier in this thread. Shame about reported motor problems, my railroad one just keeps on going, slow runner, very smooth, had it running each time I've spent any time in loft and it must have run 17 hrs or so in total, (ok, that's not a lot of it's service life but nothing's fallen off yet). That's on dc. Nice video, J.spencer, that C class sounds good. What chip is that?

Hi Malcolm, Well I picked up the phone this afternoon and rang the GBL helpline, that's the 0844 472 5237 number. Spoke to a helpful and friendly guy called Paul and ordered 4 back numbers. All available apparently but I was warned that it might take up to 2 weeks to receive them. I went for issue #1, A4 (which was only £2.99), #3 A3, #7 Deltic and #12 Jinty. These are ones I've got drives, chassis, various bits etc for so should have a reasonable chance with them. Just have to wait for them to arrive but looking promising. Cheers Bill

I've just been looking at the thread, so it's here Converting GBL K3 to K5 - Modifying/Motorising GBL Models Hope you don't mind me posting that. Some very good ideas on it, particularly on drive systems. I was thinking of a tender mounted motor in the D11 with a carden shaft to a gearbox in the loco perhaps (but that's a later project!) However I do have some tender drive mechs in the box so will be interested to see how d11 works out.

Just been reading knobhead's thread on converting a Lima small prairie Lima Small Prairie to an early Churchward version. Wow, excellent! Looks like the next GBL, the prairie, could well be turned into something respectable. rowanj's K5 thread a good read as well. Ho, hum - more projects?

Thanks for that, Malcolm. I could be ok, then. My gameplan is that 1) I've got a tender drive A4 chassis to use with the GBL A4, 2) an old jinty chassis (these were discussed earlier in thread, which encouraged me and I've got a motor to fit) and 3) the deltic. I've got spare Lima deltic bogies which are of course too short but also bogies at present under a 37 (which loco I'd like to update to a Bachmann or vitrains chassis if I find one on ebay or at a show) so would be spare for a GBL deltic. I'll look out for your posting on this, think someone did one that looked good earlier on as well. The A3s a possibility but already have various spare A3 boilers etc. However.... cheers, Bill

Been on holiday in Peak District. Went into a very good bookshop, "Bookstore Brierlow bar" which is on the A515 south of Buxton, on the Harpur Hill turning, just before the A5270. It has many remaindered and cheaper books and a very good transport section. I bought a book on Bob Dylan (oh and some transport books ). Secured to beams above the transport section bookcases were most of the GBL range, on their moulded track bases. They did look very effective as display models. So, thinking "ah ha!" I said to the lady behind the till, I did, I said do you have any more of those models up there for sale?" And she said, she said...."no". "Oh", I said, "you haven't got a cellar full of them available then?" "Sorry" she said, " manager is a bit of an anorak and gets them on subscription". So I had to be content with the books. But the earlier GBL models I'd only seen on here (I started with the compound) do look a worthwhile basis for working models, as has been done by various people earlier in this thread, particularly A4 and Jinty, Deltic etc. Think it's time to try the Amercom line for back issues which appears to be 0844 472 5237 (or could be 01895 433 600). I think there have been mixed experiences posted on here but just maybe I might be lucky! A4 in particular. If they turn up in charity shops, that's another line I guess. Otherwise I'll have to content myself with the projects I've already got and look out for the princess!

Had a lima 45xx once many years ago. It was a surprisingly good runner, perhaps because there was a lot of play in the driven wheels keeping them on the track for better pickup. Think a 2-6-2 tank makes a good running model, certainly on tight curves because of the short wheelbase. Didn't look great but that was what was available at the time. Think I may still have the edition of Model Railway Constructor that had the article about lowering body and also converting to the earlier flat top tanks version but I'm now away for a couple of weeks. I'll search it out when I'm back and report back. Got a couple of the excellent Bachmann 45xx models (when they were £34!) so don't think I'll be getting this one, got enough new projects as it is thanks to this thread. :-) ps Put Butler Henderson in display case next to desk and it does look very good.

Had another go with flanged trailing wheels. This is with flanged wheel set. Loco does run round layout ok (30" curves) but because of the length of the loco and coupled wheelbase, there is a tendency for the cab end to be restricted from moving out as much as it needs to in places. This makes loco "tight" here and there. Think wheels need more side to side play. With flangeless wheels as supplied. Loco runs very sweetly round layout, Since it is effectively an 0-8-0 (pushing pony truck around) I guess the driving wheels are now moving sideways an equal amount for each wheel set. And the smokebox end and cab end are towards the outside of the curve by an equal amount. I'm also thinking that the flangeless wheels don't really notice so may well leave them fitted. Loco certainly runs very smoothly (with flangeless wheels), no derailments after dodgy piece of track sorted. One unfortunate point with the loco, the flangeless carrying wheels have only 10 spokes. According to my old skinley drawing, they should have 12. Could this be the first time this has ever happened with a model loco?

Thanks for the above, Andy. My original post was because I wasn't sure what the identity of the model actually was, (as it happens the Kernow e-mail newsletter arrived later with a picture of the set box and the set loco is on their web site clearly as the preserved 1000). They are just selling the set. Could have been an LMS liveried version as Brossard would like! Which said, it's also nice that Bachmann have confirmed that NRM exclusive models (like the C1 that some of us have on order) will only be available through the NRM and Locomotion, having sold (rightly) at a premium.

Was going to be a one-off stand alone model - however the 2002 conversion and kit built streamline nose one in earlier posts do also look very good.... no,no haven't got the room! Etched plates for CoN on way, hopefully.

I'm puzzled by one thing about this set, the loco, Midland Compound 1000, looks as if it is the same model as 31-390NRM, sold by locomotion models as an "NRM exclusive edition" for £145. If Bachmann are effectively remaindering the loco by putting it in a set with some older coaches (and it can then be bought for £89 split from those sets) then it doesn't look as if the NRM one is actually exclusive to them. Doesn't seem to have happened with other locos like the prototype deltic. Curious.

Had a go at fitting flanged trailing wheels. The flangeless wheels drop out easily enough, held in by a small keeper plate like the arrangement on A4s, rebuilt WCs etc. Having rumaged through various boxes of wheels I was having trouble finding a set of flanged wheels the right diameter on an axle without pinpoints. Then I thought that Edward Thompson was very keen on standardisation so the trailing wheels from an A2/1 pacific could well be the right diameter. :-) Having found the Nu-cast box for a not quite completed A2/1 kit, I was in luck, the right sized wheels, right dia axle etc. The wheelset drops in ok, but as 34theletterbetweenb&d said, the flanges tend to rub against the cab floor mouldings. Also the wheels are then carried too high to rest on the rails (like the flangeless ones). I loosened the keeper plate (1 screw holds it in) and this allowed more freedom for the axle. Loco ran ok around 30" dia curves, however the trailing wheels sometimes turned ok but at times one wheel tended to twist upwards. There probably needs to be just slightly more clearance for the axle, or a means of lightly springing it downwards to keep it on the rail. My rebuilt w/cs are ok with the Hornby flanged wheels that came with the loco, but those don't have so much movement allowed (possibly there is too much sideways movement with the P2, also the wheels I'm using have slightly narrower treads I think). Anyway, there's the story of my first attempt. Think it will work with a bit of tweaking, needs a keeper plate that curves down to let the wheels run lower down. Can't see much of the wheels below the side frames anyway, (less of the wheel that the A4 with a similar arrangement) so model may have been designed deliberately with lower frames to hide the trailing wheels more. Whether it's worth doing, I'm not yet sure - but you can (just) see the trailing wheels going round now so that must be a bonus. I'd be interested to know if anyone else has managed to get this to work reliably, may not be worth it for tighter radius curves.

1. Had a problem with the loco derailing on a particular piece of track which should have been 30" constant radius. Despite track pins, glued ballast etc. it turned out that the track had slowly moved into two curves meeting at a sharp angle. Think this happened because I'd cut a notch in the top of the rails at that point as part of a "rail joint noise" experiment. That had also pushed one rail too low. Bit of work with a tracksetta and a pair of pliers restored order - however the P2 was the only loco to have found this problem. Even my Jamieson V2 with a long coupled wheelbase (and very little play in the wheels) was running over curve ok. All is now well and P2 continues to perform faultlessly. Just need the etched plates to arrive now. 2. Going to have a go with flanged trailing wheels and see if they will work on my layout. Didn't think they would due to length of loco and it would have to stay as 2-8-0 but success reported above is encouraging. 3. On another note I agree with the comments of gr.king, DRM, 84A (and others previously) above about Rob's excellent images of the P2. I feel they enhance these threads, and have been very useful in showing what the Railroad P2 would look like with full lining and the correct lettering style, before the main range P2 came out. So thanks to Rob. cheers, Bill (committed P2 fan).

Managed to get 1 Butler Henderson in Chelmsford Asdas last night, the last one. Thanks to Nile and James for the disassembly pics above. The finish is actually very good on the one I got, plus I got the binder as well. Might go and look elsewhere for another one as I think it would look good in LNER green but really like the GC livery. . Looks like some heavy cutting of the splashers will be needed to motorise it.

gr.king said in post #1651: <Nice round-topped axle ways and 3mm axles by the look of it (EM rapid conversionist Pete Hill confirms that) and no working valve gear to get all knotted up (especially if the gauge is widened) - save for the return cranks and crossheads which have miles more clearance than you'd ever want for running around realistic curves in OO at any rate.> Thanks gr.king for excellent review with lots of useful points. As I haven't taken my railroad version to pieces, I was very pleased to see your comment that the axles run in half round holes unlike DoG and 2-8-0Ts, which should help longevity of the loco. My one ran very smoothly straight out of the box, although I did oil it first in places mentioned in the instructions. Can run very slowly as well. It's run over 15 hrs now with nothing going wrong. Etched nameplates on order and I've dug out transfer sheets of shaded LNER lettering and also lining so a bit of upgrading is next.

I'm in a motor caravan in the middle of a field at the moment on my hols trying to send this via mobile phone. Compound motorising details are great. So far I've dismantled 3 compounds cut off handrails etc and drilled holes for brass handrail knobs. 2 boilers intended for 7fs 1 fine day but 1 will be compound. Handrails off castle body together with chimney new brass one to be fitted. Been running old airfix castle to encourage me. Bought 4mt edition. Already have wrenn spare 4mt body plus comet chassis kit in stash but tempted to use GBL one. So getting hooked on GBL prob go for butler Henderson if it comes out - great thread, full of ideas. Cheers bill

None in private service but the sole survivor 1369 is preserved in working order on the South Devon railway in GWR green. Left Cornwall on 20 Feb 1965, which was then the end of BR mainline steam in Cornwall, apart from an excusion by 34002 later that year. It ran to Totnes under it's own steam. It was then in black with later logo. As it was built in Feb 1934, it had 31 years with GWR and BR, but then 49 1/2 years in preservation!

Your pics of the prototype in posts 1095 and 1181 show a long rod running almost vertically from a crank on the left hand third driving wheel to the lubricator drive. If this is fitted to the "full fat" version then it could look rather impressive when running and as you suggest a similar arrangement could be a retrofit to the railroad model. Although I've knocked the "lubricator drive" moulding off mine twice, well, second time it just dropped off on the track and took ages to find. Apart from that - it's the loco I've always run each time I've spent some time with the layout - and it just purrs along, no problems after over 10 hrs running so far.