ikcdab

Thanks. I have tried that and I had intermittent results. First time round I got no reaction from the servo at all (with diode tried in both orientations). Second time I did get reaction from servo, but then it stopped. I guess the diode is giving a marginal input that is right on the threshold, so is not reliable. Ian

Hi Paul, thats really useful, thanks. In my two days of headscratching i am sure that i tried the diodes in every conceivable position and orientation! But i will try again. It may be over-complex wiring elsewhere that is allowing undesirable results - in one instance i just had servo one powering back and forwards continuously until i turned off the power (i know, sounds like an intermittent connection). When i measure the resistance across the IN4001 diodes, i get around 400ohms in the forward (normal) direction. WSould that be enough to stop the servo4 inout registering? Ian

Sometimes you really have those "slap your head, duh" moments. Having built my trackwork, i thought it would be an easy job to wire it in. My turnouts are operated by servos driven by the MERG servo 4 unit. In the case on my harbour station, i previously had three routes: loop, main and bay, connected by two turnouts selected by a rotary switch. The routing logic was easy: route 1: turnout 1: on route 2: turnout 1: off route 3: turnout 1 off, turnout 2 on. I am now adding a fourth route. This requires turnout 1 on and the new turnout (crossover) 3 to be on as well. route 1 then becomes turnout 1 on, turnout 3 off. Easy, i thought. All i need to do is to wire a diode across the rotary switch terminals such that when route 4 is selected, curent also flows to route 1, but not the other way. i spent a whole day fiddling about and just could not get it to work. I tried everything and eveb started to believe that the diodes were faulty. Then after two days, i realised that servo 4 operates by shortcircuiting the terminals - there is no current involved. All you have do is to connect the servo terminal to the common and the servo throws. So the dioide would never work as there is no current to block (thats as i understand it)... So what do i do now. The ony answer i can think of is to completely rewire this part of the layout such that the rotary switch operates dpdt relays via a diode matrix. One side of the dpdt will complete the circuit to operate the servos, and the other side will set the crossing polarity. I know this works as i have used it elsewhere on my layout. But it will be a major job to remove the switch panel, rebuild it and reinstall. but it will simplify the wiring a bit. Unless anyone else knows how you can selectively shortcircuit servo4 boards to provide routing, this is now what I am going to do! I'll post pictures later. Ian

The acrylics I've used have been excellent and I now use for everything. Only time I use enamels is if the shade is not available in acrylics. Ian C

To conclude, I completed this job. I could have made the new handrails neater and I have lost two windscreen wipers, but overall I am pleased. It is now coupled to my 4TC. Ian

Hi John, yes I do pretty much the same as you. I cut the timbers, gap them, test then fix them to the template. I use a very shallow half round file to cut the gaps. Two or three strokes and you are through. As it is a shallow half round, the edges of the gaps are tapered and disappear once painted. Ian

Time goes by so fast. Anyway, moving on from above I have decided to access the new siding with a facing connection. Templot to the rescue, I loaded up my layout plan and added in the new trackwork. I have gone for a spacing of 65mm from the adjacent running line. Printed out the relevant pages and stuck to piece of ply. As the intention is for this track to be inlaid, I have gone with copperclad construction. I also like soldering very much indeed. Here are some shots of progress so far: I tend to cut the gaps in the sleepers with a shallow half round file so that I get tapered edges. Once painted, the gaps disappear. The great thing about templot @martin_wynne is that I can get fantastic gentle curves. This crossover is on a very large radius, must be about 20m, and running into a transition curve. All the other techniques are as per normal copper clad construction. Further pictures later! Ian

Why use glue? Strong double sided tape works well.

How does what you want differ from this for the symbols? https://www.fox-transfers.co.uk/transfers/rf-construction-trainload-construction-symbols-numbering-classes-26-31-33-47-56-86 Wagon numbers are generic and widely available. Ian

ok, so that makes sense. I assume that the guys at Planet Industrials are also the same people at Narrow Planet / Light Railway Stores? I see one name in common. It really shouldn't be this difficult to contact a supplier about a missing piece in a kit..... Ian C

Hi there thanks. So are you Narrow Planet? I am confused! Thanks

So am I back as square one with this? The situation is that I bought two Meridian Models Talyllyn coaches at Warley show. Having now opened the boxes, they are both missing plastic chassis mouldings. The box says to email info@narrowplanet.co.uk. But I have had no reply. Looking at their website, it gives the address as info@lightrailwaystores.co.uk. Again, this gives me no reply. In this thread, i was told that @James Hilton and @cornelius were the people to speak to, but they are Planet Industrials - is that the same thing? No phone number on the NP website, so I will have to write an old fashioned letter... Has anyone had any contact with this company at all? Ian Coleby

There was also a third type, piped wagons. These were unfitted wagons but having a through pipe so that the vacuum could be transmitted to fitted wagons behind I don't know how common these were. And I also don't only if they were grey or bauxite.... Ian

Ive been a WSR volunteer for 40 years so I am biased, but in my view things are going pretty well or, at least, no worse than on any other heritage railway with the usual coal, passenger numbers and volunteers issues that bedevil all railways. The spring gala was an outstanding success and things are looking good for the diesel gala. I'll be at minehead signing copies of my new book about the railway published by the Middleton Press. Pop in and see me if you're around. Ian Coleby

Hi Steve, did you manage to get to this? @James Hilton @cornelius Please can you pm me. Ian

I've not had any success with the microsol. I would use dilute PVA. Failing that, prittstick applied with a damp paintbrush works too. Or any waterbased varnish. Ian

Hi Steve many thanks. Please pm me if you need more info. Ian (on behalf of Ben Bowring)

Ok thanks. The problem is thay I bought two of their talyllyn coach kits at Warley and now I have opened them, I find that both have half of the plastic chassis mouldings missing. No reply from the emails and no phone number. Hmm. Looks like I'll have to write an old fashioned letter. Ian

An the joys of the English language. I studied russian for a few years and with that words are always spoken as they are spelt. So pronunciation is entirely predictable. With English, there is only a loose connection between spelling and pronunciation. And no rules either, you just have to know it. I like how the word "mouth" is pronounced one way when it stands on its own, but is pronounced as "muff" such as Weymouth. And just think how you would speak the sentence "I went to the shops". The words "to the" just blur into one "tother" or something similar. It's all done to make things as difficult as possible for foreigners. I love it Ian

@cornelius and @James Hilton Can you help? Ian

Has anyone had any success contacting light railway stores or narrow planet? I can't find a phone number and emails are unanswered? https://www.lightrailwaystores.co.uk/ I have emailed both email addresses. Ian

About time i did some updating on this. But in the meantime, I am planning an additional siding at the harbour station. No real reason other than I like building track and wiring it! The diagram below shows the new track in red. It is intentional that the portion to the left of the crossover is shorter than the right - its limited by the location of the harbour walls. My quandry (on which I would like comments) is whether the new crossover should be facing (shown in red) or trailing (shown in green). The advantage of the facing (red) option is that incoming trains can run directly into the new siding without needing the loop to be clear. The disadvantage is that because the track to the left is shorter, it limits how many wagons can be accommodated. If i use the green crossover, a train must first run into the loop, then propel over the crossover into the long siding. For me, the wiring will be more straightforward with the facing (red) option, it will just be another notch on the rotary switch that currently allows you to select any of the exisiting roads. I guess there are pros and cons both ways, but any suggestions will be gratefuly received! Full update later. Ian

That is rather nice dressed stone. Where is it? The trick is not to use one single colour, but to vary the tones as per the prototype. Although it may not sound relevant, there is a great art restoration you tube channel. Retouching the pictures where he has to match the original colours is magical and well worth watching how he does it. There is a lot to learn from that with painting model stonework like this. https://youtube.com/@BaumgartnerRestoration Ian

My experience is like many others. Avoid the cheap spray cans as not only do they throw out the varnish far too heavy, but they yellow very quickly. Proper model varnish is much better and I have used several. Avoid the humbrol spray cans. Certainly I would always prefer my airbrush over cans. Any of the model enamel varnishes should be fine, thinned appropriately. Several thin costs will give you a very good finish. Ian

Hi Bill, the total tickness of the sides is 1mm. The plank gaps are indented 0.25mm on each side. So the remaining thickness (where it has cracked) is 0.5mm. Sounds thin. But as i said, i printed these several weeks ago and they have sat happily in the shed with no movement over that time. Maybe its coincidence, but its only now that i have painted with the cellulose primer and added the sand/pva load that the cracking has happened. I attach a screenshot of ther fusion360 model showing the reinforcing ring I added. The cracking occured below this. The easy answer is to thicked up the sides below the reinforcing ring, but i am still mystified why the wagons split after being ok for several weeks. Ian