ikcdab

I imagine all DC layouts with more than one controller have this issue and there are multiple ways of solving it. On my own layout I have a crossover on a double track main line leading to a branchline. This then has three controllers, up and down main and the branch. I solved this by considering the crossover and branch junction as a single unit. When the road is set for the branch, relays switch everything to the down controller. This happens automatically and is switched by the turnout switch. When the road is set for the up and down main, things revert to individual controllers. On the branch I have a handover section which is wired to two controllers but either operator can take control and switch it to their controller ( think stair and landing light with switches top and bottom). It is reasonably complicated wiring but not that bad and the relays work like a dream. I can post wiring diagrams if you want them, just say. Ian

Are you sure you need it 1.25mm thick? That is quite heavy for OO chassis. You will find that thinner brass works just as well. I would also be wary of buying the exact width you need. Strip brass is normally guillotine cut and leaves a chamfered edge. You are better to bit slightly wider and file it to the exact width and get a square edge

Thank you. The one I bought does not have a tank. But I find that the compressor only runs for about 50% of the time, certainly it is not running continuously. It does have a long hose, maybe that acts as a tank.

Thanks for the replies. I visited my local wargaming and RC model shop and chatted to them. They recommended the timbertech kit (no tank) and I bought one. Its been great so far!

If the hole in the bogie is 8mm diameter the that's a pretty hefty screw you need. Id use a washer and use something like M4 which would be a better size.

It must depend on the thickness of the material and the quality of the cutter. Our cutter will handle thin card, say 250g but struggles with anything else. I had to cut many 4mm wide strips from 0.8mm ply for sleepers and after trying different methods, just fell back on good old Stanley knife, steel edge and Vernier to position the steel edge. Put on the radio and just cracked on. For me accuracy was the key thing and I couldn't get consistency with any other method.

Seen this... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234844785514?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=usqnc_ezshc&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=oMX1GZ5VQyG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This one is still pricey but looks really good https://www.dccconcepts.com/product-category/specialised-model-accessories/dccconcepts-rolling-roads/

I would 100% build my own when I need to replace. I suppose "build" sounds dramatic. Its more plugging together and switching on. Having said that, when I need to replace I will be going for a laptop. Much more flexible and suited to my lifestyle.

Hi Phil, yes thats a good point. Each time I have a failure I say "never again" and then a couple of hours later I am having another go. I have lychee so I'll try that today and see what happens. Looking at my fusion 360, I have made the walls of the huts quite thick, 1.5mm, plus the prototype reinforcement, and the roof is 2mm thick so it is quite a heavy model. I might try thinning them a bit to make it lighter. Ian

Thank you to all who has replied. This is what I am finding frustrating. Here we have three models. A PW hut, tool shed and coalbunker. I have duplicated the models in chitubox after adding supports so the duplicates are identical. You will see that in each case, one has printed ok, the other has failed. The toolshed appears to have slipped a portion of the side. This looks to me as if it's supports, but why would one work and the other fail? Any advice? PS I had already removed one coalbunker hence only one in the pic.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285129631069?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=-SEUcIYJSsC&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=oMX1GZ5VQyG&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Great opportunity for you. Decent price but, in effect, £40,000 postage!

As you know your requirements, why not just build your own? You just buy the components and plug it all together. It's easier that assembling a rolling stock kit and you can get exactly what you want. Ian

Thanks. I replaced the diodes with a bridge rectifier and all is now fine. Ian

Yes I have done the light test and ask seems ok. I don't know about the percentage power, how do I set that? Looking at the glass screen very closely, I can see tiny scratches (about 30mm long but very shallow) in one spot on the screen. Ive no idea how they got there. Can minute scratches diffuse the light source? The printer is meant for home use so must be able to deal with things like that.

No i havent, I have only used the water washable one. My issue is inconsistency - sometimes it works and other times it doesn't. As I have always used the same resin, I'm not sure that is the problem? Ian

This is a follow up from my original post which I started the thread with. So I had a typical experience yesterday. 1. i printed a few 4mm scale signal lamps and signal platforms - so small stuff. All printed perfectly. Great, we are on a roll. 2. then without cleaning or doing anything else i tried to print 3 girders, each about 100mm long by 10mm high. These have printed perfectly before so i know the supports and the file are all OK. Total failure, no print at all. 3. So i cleaned out the vat, filtered the resin to remove bits, polished the glass screen and cleaned and relevelled the build plate. I then tried to print 3 x SR concrete tool sheds. One came out OK, one half printed and one was the usual pile of mess in the bottom of the vat. All other variables are the same. The printer is in a spare bedroom which is heated. This is using elegoo water washable resin. This is the Saturn printer. Here are my settings - are these OK...? Please comment! So today I am going to renew the FEP film and have yet another go. I do find this all very frustrating. I see on youtube people printing the most wonderful things, yet I struggle to to get any kind of consistency on the simplest items. Grateful for all of your comments! Ian

Add a shelf along the back where the trestle is too wide. Shelf is then used for control panel, spare stock or cups of coffee.

I suspect there is no hard and fast rule and it depends on the exhibition. Id ring the exhibition manager and ask.

To be honest, all I ever have done is to buy copper rod and file my own tips to whatever shape I need,tinning as necessary.

Why is the 3.9mm one mentioned above no good?

I use these minature relays - ebay link This is the diagram: I'm not quite sure how your voltage from the track works, all you say is "taking power from the track on the side being switched". So I assume you know what you are doing there. The relay doesn't mind what polarity the input is, so that gets over your direction issue. The LEDs are powered from a separate supply that is a fixed polarity. The voltage of this does not matter, you just need to size the resistor accordingly. I use a 1K resistor for 12v or a 270 ohm for 5v. When there is no voltage from the track, the relay is open and one LED is lit. When there is voltage from the track, the relay closes and the other LED lights. Hope this makes sense! Ian

Hi James, thanks, I'll PM you. Ian

I think the scalescenes bridge would fit the bill. The kit is flexible for width and I actually built mine as two arches to span two different lines. And you can download it in stone (ashlar) https://scalescenes.com/product/r011-arched-bridge/ It's recommended. Ian

LEDs are far preferable and you could fix your problem by using a miniature relay.