ikcdab

Hi Hayfield thanks for the update. Best wishes to Phil and to you for helping him out.

Looks really good. You have done an excellent job. Well done. Ian

Try this: https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/lx007-oo-laser-cut-chain-link-security-fencing-oo4mm176-1211-p.asp

Polypockets in a ring binder. Easily sorted and easily found when wanted...

Hayfield, many thanks. I appreciate the issues that phil has had and I won't be bothering him! I'm stuck for slide chairs, but as I said above, I have plenty of switch blades and crossing vees etc to make up in the meantime so I can be ready when the order does arrive. Ian

Well yes, but the decorative bits of scalescenes kits (e.g. brickwork or tiles) are bitmaps.

Hi Hayfield, thanks for the update. Obviously in this case, our sympathies lie with Phil and the problem with his property. It would be counterproductive to ring Phil for progress on orders, so do you have any idea about when he might be able to clear his backlog? I'm waiting for some functional chairs from him, but I can be filing point blades etc in the meantime!

To be honest, I don't think you'll get the resolution at that scale. And as others have said, youll need to break it up into portions. You might be better off creating your own "kit" using the scalescenes techniques of layering card and overlaying decorative brick papers etc. It's quite straightforward to do and can give good results.

I don't like traction tyres for a number of reasons. Does the unit run ok without them? If so, then don't bother replacing them.

I have found that the Hornby close couplers are far better. It's Hornby R8220. They hold the stock more tightly and I have found that they virtually eliminate derailments when propelling. I use these for all inter-coach connections, retaining the hook and bar couplings at each end of the rake.

It appears to be completely dead now.. Can anyone access the website?

Does that help?

I agree. In their as-bought state, the positive leg is longer so you know. Once you start chopping them down you lose that. That's why I always fix the resistor to the negative and then sheath in black heat shrink so I know the polarity.

If you go online to buy LEDs you will find that you are encouraged to buy ultra bright ones. That probaby isn't what you want. I look out the diffused ones which are much better.

I have found that LEDs are very tolerant! I use a 12v supply and 1000ohm resistor. But larger sizes are ok too. I would not go less than 1000ohm. I have found that you can't mix different colours of LED on one resistor. It's better to use one resistor per LED. They are very cheap and all I do is solder a resistor to the negative pin of the LED and put a bit of heat shrink over it. Then you are good to go!

Gorilla glue super glue. Every time

Not really. Signalboxes were rare in the early days when the stations were built. Signalboxes were added later and were to standard designs

Yes, quite. They used whatever was most convenient or suitable. Most early stations were built of stone, though they might not have been GWR designed. But if there wasn't stone easily available, then brick might have been used. When Minehead station was extended in 1923, the GWR duplicated the original Minehead Railway Company design and used the same stone. Interestingly, GWR signalboxes were almost always brick or timber. Apart from an odd few, I can't think of any stone GWR signalboxes.

Every canopy was different!

Both Dunster and Castle Cary stations were built by independent railway companies, though I believe castle Cary was designed by Robert Brereton who is was Brunel's deputy. So neither were originally GWR. To be honest, unless you are looking for a "standard" GWR station built in the 1920s or after, pretty much any design would be ok. It's much more the dressing of the model that makes it GWR..ie the paint scheme, benches, signaling, poster boards etc. The ratio kits are excellent.

The easiest way is to lightly scribe on thin card. I use 1mm card and score it lightly. When painted, the texture is just right. Ian

Pdf is the usual transfer format. That means that you can create your designs in any way you want, including sketching by hand, as long as you can create a pdf from it. And must printer drivers have a pdf option. I strongly suspect your transfer supplier will work from a pdf. Off-topic, It's worth saying that no printer anywhere can print a vector file. The fact that a printer puts blobs or grains of ink or toner onto a sheet of something means that it can only work from a bitmap. If you send a vector file to a printer, it automatically converts it to a bitmap before printing with a software item called a "RIP" (raster image processing).

If it's 8ba, which seems likely, you can buy small quantities from eBay quite cheaply. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-BA-X-1-inch-COUNTER-SUNK-STEEL-X-18-FREEPOST-/352860093037?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

I think that's a little unfair. Yes, MM can be slow in delivering, but a phonecall goes a long way to speeding things with Jim. I ordered some from him over Christmas and he rang me to say they were on the way. Took about 3 weeks, but I experienced a friendly and helpful service

It's less about the quality of the screwdriver, though being able to grip it really well is important, but much more about the head fitting the screw exactly. If there is any slop, then the screwdriver will slip and mash the head. I suggest the jewellers screwdrivers do not give you enough grip. You want something with a decent handle.