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Where on the point does it derail? At the crossing, point blades or random? If it's only one wheelset, I would check the back to back. Ian

Ok John, thanks, sounds sensible.

As i said before, you have made an excellent start. All of my early modelling was done on a piece of 6 x 4 chipboard and a small pile of setrack. I bought some airfix paints and just got on with it. I seem to remember using Dandy annuals as platforms and using a lot of superquick and airfix (now Dapol) kits. Most of this stuff I totally destroyed, but I learnt a huge amount in the process. Later I saved up and bought a K's kit of a 1361. It never ran because of the limitations of Ks kits combined with my youth, but I learnt a lot from it. Well done on what you have done so far, keep going and keep posting here. Ian

Wow, that's some collection. Going off topic, how do you manage and index them, how do you protect them (physically and digitally) and when old father time waves his wand, how do you protect them for the future? I only ask because I have a much smaller collection and I am pondering those questions. Ian

Somewhere here on rmweb someone has modelled one.

Thank you. That's helped. The one I am looking at is 010 so I'll go ahead and buy it.

How does one know if it's a second batch locomotive? Presumably one bought now from a model shop will be???

So I find I have a bit of cash to spend and I need a class 73. Putting all livery questions side, are they good runners? I have just watched the sams trains review and he cans the running. It derails easily and the pickups are very poor. I have read through some of this site and it would seem he is not alone in this opinion. So what are peoples experiences now? Is it a decent runner or do I save £40 and buy the Hornby one which is less detailed? Is it worth buying the Dapol one?? Thanks

I think you have made a great start, well done. These sorts of models can be excellent. I have bought several old triang mk1s and replaced buffers, added gangway ends, new wheels, reglazed and painted inside and out and I am pleased. Looking at your pics I would say the best thing you can do is some simple weathering on the undeframe. Coaches were normally kept clean so no need to go mad, but some track colour lightly sprayed over the lower half would add a lot. Well done.

Mmm not sure that narrowing the checkway with platicard is going to help. If it is only this loco then the problem is with the loco, not the track. In that case, the b2b are just too wide. As suggested above, you need to double check and narrow them ever so slightly.

Also important that your shed is well insulated and waterproofed. Provide some form of heating otherwise it will be just too cold for a large proportion of the year. Keeping damp or is really important!

Not really. It's not sold yet....

Thanks, yes that did it. Now to reinsert those wire handrails back in those holes again...

Hi Ian, yes, 2mm cant on the curves...

A lot has been going on! I have now completed the full circuit and can now run some trains. Here is a video showing operations to date Let me know what you think Ian

So how do I get inside one of these? Some of the glazing has come loose. I have removrd the central screw, but all is still firmly attached. Bachmann GUV Thanks!

I think that closing the gap between coaches is one of the best things to enable realism. I hate seeing that gap! You can easily make your own from thin card or thick paper. There are loads of articles about it on line and on rmweb. This is one of the best Ian

I am confused. Weren't all SOs 2+2?

That's a complicated layout and it's impossible to say where the shorts are occurring without much more detail. The simple answer is that a turnout mudtv only be fed from the toe end. If there is power supply from the other end, then you must use isolating joiners. Unless that fixes it, the only way you will solve this is to disconnect everything and start again, doing one section at a time. Test that section and only when happy, wire up the next one. You don't say how your LEDs are powered so I can't say why those don't work. Ian C

For me, I need to get things running to maintain enthusiasm. I can't be one of those who has a non-running layout for years and years....

The layout looks excellent, well done. Impressed by how fast you have for on with it.

There is a great video on YouTube under Everard Junction where Richard repainted one or more locos. Really helpful. As are all of his videos! https://youtu.be/iYR1TkinRh4 Ian

Finally got the baseboards around the room... Now just have to lay the track on the new section and we're away. Then to build the central section across the room. Ian

Maybe, but much closer through turnouts. SMP OO is currently £3.90 per yard length but rail is £1.10 per length, so £2.20 per yard of track. Bearing in mind the need to buy copperclad strip and the time, it might be more cost effective to just buy SMP ready to lay. Ian

My loose wording. My old Hornby locos have pickups one side only, current being returned via the chassis block, wheel bearings and metal wheels on the other.