ikcdab

Also important that your shed is well insulated and waterproofed. Provide some form of heating otherwise it will be just too cold for a large proportion of the year. Keeping damp or is really important!

Not really. It's not sold yet....

Thanks, yes that did it. Now to reinsert those wire handrails back in those holes again...

Hi Ian, yes, 2mm cant on the curves...

A lot has been going on! I have now completed the full circuit and can now run some trains. Here is a video showing operations to date Let me know what you think Ian

So how do I get inside one of these? Some of the glazing has come loose. I have removrd the central screw, but all is still firmly attached. Bachmann GUV Thanks!

I think that closing the gap between coaches is one of the best things to enable realism. I hate seeing that gap! You can easily make your own from thin card or thick paper. There are loads of articles about it on line and on rmweb. This is one of the best Ian

I am confused. Weren't all SOs 2+2?

That's a complicated layout and it's impossible to say where the shorts are occurring without much more detail. The simple answer is that a turnout mudtv only be fed from the toe end. If there is power supply from the other end, then you must use isolating joiners. Unless that fixes it, the only way you will solve this is to disconnect everything and start again, doing one section at a time. Test that section and only when happy, wire up the next one. You don't say how your LEDs are powered so I can't say why those don't work. Ian C

For me, I need to get things running to maintain enthusiasm. I can't be one of those who has a non-running layout for years and years....

The layout looks excellent, well done. Impressed by how fast you have for on with it.

There is a great video on YouTube under Everard Junction where Richard repainted one or more locos. Really helpful. As are all of his videos! https://youtu.be/iYR1TkinRh4 Ian

Finally got the baseboards around the room... Now just have to lay the track on the new section and we're away. Then to build the central section across the room. Ian

Maybe, but much closer through turnouts. SMP OO is currently £3.90 per yard length but rail is £1.10 per length, so £2.20 per yard of track. Bearing in mind the need to buy copperclad strip and the time, it might be more cost effective to just buy SMP ready to lay. Ian

My loose wording. My old Hornby locos have pickups one side only, current being returned via the chassis block, wheel bearings and metal wheels on the other.

A battery pack will be fine, it depends on the power consumption of the loco and the power of the battery pack. A "wall wart" might be better. Ian

Lots of these available https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184522093375

Roundhouse have most things in their catalogue though I don't know if this is in it.

Well, the thread title caught my attention! I dont model n gauge. The sleepers must be a max of 2mm wide, 2hich must make these incredibly fine screws with miniscule heads and threads. I'm struggling to see the advantage over pins.

I think that's a bit black and white. Lofts can be made into perfectly habitable spaces with insulation, electrics, lighting and stronger floors etc. It's just a case of how much effort (and money) you wish to go to. Ian

Maybe it's some primeval love of bright shiny things! Here are the sleepers at the other end of the loops glued down and gapped ready for the rails....

More activity. I have spent a few days laying track through the storage sidings. Each of the mainlines has two loops, each approx 3m long, so should be able to store a full length train and a slightly shorter one on each loop. The pointwork here is copperclad such is so much quicker to build than using cosmetic chairs as I have on the scenic sections. Anyway, the points and in and working at one end. I have used the megapoints servo mounts here, and I'm pleased with them. Of course, had to run some trains and the sidings began to fill up.. Next job is to complete the loops and then the pointwork at the other end.

I thought my solution was DIY! Using servos, relays and a MERG servo4 kit is DIY. The MERG kit is around £6 to drive 4 servos. So it's £1.50 per servo. Add the £1.90 servo cost, £1 for a relay and a few pennies for a homemade servo mount means each point is motorised for under £5. Ian

That is exactly how I do my tiebars and it works well for me. You will have people saying that the solder joint will fail, and it might if it's thumped over with a solenoid, but servos are so much more gentle and the movement is so small, I don't think it will fail. Mine haven't anyway. Good looking trackwork by the way. Looks very nicely done.