HLT 0109

Thanks Nick - I can see that connecting direct tot he DCC track bus may not be sensible. Using the regulator description you offered, I found the item in this link https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/263033759502?rt=nc&var=562036686201. It looks as if I could insert one of these between the track bus and each IRDOT - or would one of them serve to supply all eight? They are only 099p each incluing delivery - presumably direct from China. On the other hand, if I buy a 12v transformer, I could run a separate bus under the boards from which to connect to the IRDOTs. Any further views?

I am having some difficulty obtaining clear guidance on how to connect my Heathcote IRDOT 2Ds to my DCC, 00 gauge layout and am hoping there is someone who knows the definitive answer. The layout is powered from a transformer rated at 16v AC, via NCE booster SB3a to a Procab and a Power Cab. I also use JMRI so i have an NCE USB Interface. I have a script set up in JMRI to run a shuttle and have fitted eight IRDOTs beneath the track. These are (or will be) attached to an NCE AIU-01 via terminals 3 and 4 of the IRDOTs but I need power to IRDOT terminals 1 and 6. The AIU-01 is correctly attached to power but the outstanding query is whether I need a 12v DC transformer to supply the IRDOTs - or can I attach terminals 1 & 6 to the track bus via the existing droppers (which are attached to the bus by choc-blocks). The IRDOTs are rated for 12-16v AC or DC but is there a danger of excess voltage from the power bus - or indeed any other danger? The aforementioned transformer is rated at 10amps and I understand that the IRDOTs will use 0.4 amps altogether. I can't see me having more than four sound locos running at the same time, but my solenoid point motors also take their power from the track bus. Any help much appreciated. Harold.

Simon - I will kick this off but others may refine correct what I say as I am working from memory. Once set up. the consist will respond to the front loco address or the rear one - you can forget the consist address as far as running it is concerned. The decoder in the loco will remember it is in a consist, even if power is interrupted. I believe the recall will work with the consist. A consist can only be created once with a given address and all connected cabs will recognise it. Consist addresses are in the number sequence from 112-127 - the default is 127. The problem may be remembering what number relates to which pair of locos so you may wish to write them down. When you want to clear a consist, you have to use the clear button. There is also a means of scrolling through the consists list so you can tell if there are any you have forgotten about (or that have failed to clear). A related topic - have you speed-matched your pairs of locos or are you relying on similar models haveing the same running charcteristics (eg acceleration and deceleration, minimum/maximum speeds etc)? Even two examples of the same loco from the same manufacturer may not perform in exactly the same way. If the speeds are not matched before putting the locos into a consist, they may fight each other when running. I would suggest that using a consist is preferable to giving two (or more) locos the same address. I hope this helps, Harold.

If there is 3" between the embankments, there is room to use bricks on their sides - they won't slip on a 1:50. This assumes of course that you have some bricks lying around . . . Even better if you have some spare blocks as used for block paving - they are smaller than bricks. Your local builders merchant may have some broken items they would let you have.

Pete, If you are looking for an impact adhesive that doesn't attack plastic, EvoStik do a solvent-free version. I've not tried it on a 4ft length but it works with smaller items. Harold.

I haven't seen the extent of the problem you describe but, if you take your time and do a smallish area at a time, I would suggest dabbing PVA on to the gaps with a brush, leaving the good areas untouched. Then sprinkle/place the new scenic material over the affected area (perhaps pressing it down with a finger) and leave to dry for a day or two. Provided you are not using too powerful a vacuum cleaner, the material shouldn't come up again if the glue is perfectly dry. There may be some trial and error with the degree of dilution of the PVA - more dilution for finer scenics. It won't matter if the new material spills over some of the original material as long as it is not coated with glue. Harold.

There is really no substitute for a test piece but I should have thought you couold ease the 1:68 by continuing the gradient through the first curve. I have a rather unprotypical gradient with a minimum of 1:30, through 1:20 on a semi-circle to 1:15 at the top! Obviously I can only negotiate this (with steamers) by double/triple heading but, if your semicircle were all within the steepest part of your gradient, the whole gradient could be about 1:.90 - perhaps less as you would omit two transitions. Harold..

Me too!

I suspect that's the problem. You are still relying on good contact between the rail and each fishplate - a little dirt or paint, or a slightly loose fit will cause problems. Far better to solder the droppers direct to each piece of rail. How is the other end of each dropper fixed to the power bus?

Paul, I use the 9F in a consist with locos controlled by other sound chips, so i have a relatively low value set in CV4. If I want to use the dynamic brake function when running the 9F alone, I have to put a very high valuie into CV4 - and remeber/record what value I need to speed-match the rest of the consist. I guess that's not a great problem - or is there something I have missed? Thanks, Harold.

Jeremy, Glad you have overcome the problem! I can't be sure how securely plasticweld would stick to the tiebar but that would be my first choice if using my suggested method. I have managed to repair 00 gauge Hornby and Peco points (triggered by solenoid motors) using two-part epoxy and that should work if a metal washer were used - in my case, one of the switch rails had come loose from the tiebar. Best Seasonal Wishes to you too! Harold.

This looks like an interesting development where a loco is used both on its own and in a consist. I have a "Paul Chetter" 9F used in both roles and do not use the dynamic brake function because of the hassle of changing CVs between each type of operation. To have the facility available on a single function key would be very nice! Harold.

May I reciprocate your good wishes. Many thanks for posting - lovely snow effect! Harold.

Jeremy, Would it be feasible to make a small piece of reinforcement from thin plastic card through which to drill a suitable hole (ie make up your own washer) before bonding the reinforcement to the tiebar with either plastic solvent or contact/epoxy adhesive? Don't know how easy this would be in 2mm - I model in 4mm. Harold.

Steve, I have no experience of the AR1 or the DB210 but I have several reversing loops in my layout (which is powered by NCE Procab with SB3a 5amp booster) and I did have troubles from time to time with one of my longer reversing loops. In my case, although power was being supplied to the loop, there was a break in the supply part way round the loop - ie a bad solder joint or dirty rail joiner. Sorting out those defects cured the problem. A question though - you say a loco is OK entering the loop - but is that always from the same end, or does it enter satisfactorily in the opposite direction? If it can enter the loop from either direction, then the power must be switching - suggesting the problem is not with the AR1. Harold.

Dave, Did you see this in another thread? https://www.micromark.com/HO-Truck-Tuner_2

Greg, There is a large choice of controllers and the best for you is the one you like using! As Pete says, the Hornby select is very limiting and for me, the Elite is not user friendly. I have used the original Dynamis but not he current version - it could be very good for a small layout rather than a larger one because of the need to have direct line of sight between the receiver and the wireless handset. You also have the choice between a console type that needs table-top space and the hand-held type that don't. Apart from the very basic controllers, they all do a similar job but vary in the way they do it. it would be best, if you can, to visit a model shop (or a number of them) where you can try out different makes. Harold.

I have a Railroad A4 (Falcon) that climbs an incline as if its wheels are greased; I stuffed as much Blu Tack into the smoke box as i could and it had some benefit - I woouldn't like to have to get it all out again. Blu Tack has the benefit of being quite dense and therefore relatively heavy for its size. You could use lead shot (perhaps there is a a lead-free substitute) but there are some comments on RMWeb that some glues causse problems with over time. Just re-discovered this product: There you go - Blu Tack and Liquid Gravity!

Once ballasted, you wil lose most (if not all) the sound-deadening effect of cork underlay. Some say that ballast laid with Copydex rather than diluted PVA wood glue retains some sound deadening properties but others say it has other drawbacks.

This what you are referring to I think: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/128514-roll-your-own-under-track-kadee-uncoupler/

A few years ago, I wanted to put loads in my wagons and have them removable with a magnetic wand. I consulted the supplier shown in the link below as to which size neodymium magnets I needed and they gave me good advice. It may be worth contacting them with your problem. The link below gives their telephone number, email and postal addresses. https://www.magnetexpert.com/map Good luck! Harold.

Dave, if the wheelsets are binding in the bogies, I have found these reemers from DCC Concepts helpful: https://www.dccconcepts.com/product/bearing-reamers-set-of-two/ You may care to give them a try. Harold.

Double-heading or banking is successful, but is perhaps not favoured for a continuous run. DCC Concepts make PowerBase which is a magnetic strip installed under the track and requires a magnet to be fixed beneath the loco, but could be expensive and not much help if track laying is already complete. You could try adding a little weight over the loco's driving wheels - I am guessing your locos are steam era because the diesels cope much better with inclines. If you can find a way of hanging some weight temporarily over the boiler of the loco, you will find out if it is worth hiding some weight inside the loco. My Bachmann steamers cope better with my incline than Hornby's Harold.

I see that it is two weeks since my previous post in this thread - it seems much longer! However, I am pleased to report that the problems have now been overcome. Thanks to the patience of Steve in dealing with a programming numpty, I now have twelve routes saved as python scripts which are triggered via the Routes Table in Panel Pro. If necessary, I can vary the delay between adjacent trigger actions if the points share a CDU, in order to give the CDU time to regenerate. Steve did say that the job could be done with a single script but I have decided to quit while I am ahead. Many thanks to all who contributed to the debate.

I would say it depends on what material you inted to work in, and probably what scale. A scroll saw is useless for cardboard and, unnecessary/useless for plastic card - in both cases a craft knife is sufficient. Could be useful for plywood, MDF etc but, unless you intend to use it a lot, I would think a hand-held coping saw is just as good. My experience is in 00 gauge and I would say that £70 spent on decent craft tools would be better value in this and smaller gauges.