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HLT 0109

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  1. That's great, Paul. Being a northern lad, I am not familiar with the characteristics of the West Countries but I love the different sounds and facilities you include in your projects. One day, perhaps, someone might work out how to make the model's wheels slip in time with the sound - and then regain grip! Harold.
  2. I agree with you entirely Paul, and I have a short, isolated siding that is my programming track. As I said earlier, it is the only place with Powercab that one can read CVs as well as write them but here are times when it is necessary to 'program on main' - for example when speed matching locos. That would be impossible on a short programming track so it is necessary to use the rest of the layout - then, as you say, care is needed to ensure the 'use programming track' is NOT selected! Harold.
  3. I do not think this is the whole story. I believe it is correct if you wish to programme an address into a loco but NCE Powercab permits "Programming on Main" whereby one first identifies the loco address and can then alter other CVs. However, you cannot read CVs on main which is a good reason for having a short programming track. Harold
  4. Bif, The disadvantage of what you suggest is that, when an incline is encountered, the dummy loco adds weight to the train and might cause wheel-slip. An additional reason I wanted traction at both ends was to prevent runaways should the couplings separate. You might have seen in the video a big white patch on the wall at the bend in the middle - a block of polystyrene designed to soften the crash when a coach derails as it descends at speed - hopefully no longer needed! Harold.
  5. Hi Harold Although more of a diesel man - found this inspiring - I'll now need to consider some "proper" sound for my only kettle - a Black 5. The matching of the 2 sound locos is impressive, especially as they have different decoder versions fitted. I've been playing around with a push-pull rake with sound fitted 27's at each end, not with total success, sometimes it works OK other times the rear loco derails the rake on curves, so it's still work in progress, and I'm working on the flat for the moment with no inclines etc As you've shown, with time it can be done ! Regards Ken Glad you like it, Ken. When I did this video I thought the wagons might derail on the first bend so I made sure that the train was not bunched up at the start and I can confirm that there wasn't a single problem from then to where the train stops in the loop at the station. I must confess that at faster speeds (ie beyond speed step 80) there are some speeds where I cannot match in both directions despite using the trim facility. However, I can't imagine running the consist at speed. My speed matching was all done on the level - the incline made no difference.
  6. The subject of speed-matching locos is something that has exercised my mind (and time) quite a lot in recent years and I have twice failed to achieve satisfactory results. I have read and contributed to the threads about it on this forum and have been keen to succeed in using two sound locos in consist with both locos sound enabled. Using NCE Powercab and without the aid of a computer I have found it to be very a frustrating procedure at times but perseverence has paid off and i am so pleased with the result this time that I feel compelled to share it with you. I hope you enjoy watching the video. It is particularly pleasing to me because, having made a rod for my own back with an extreme gradient from my storage and shed area I need the traction of two (or more!) locos to haul the wagons and coaches. One might think that, in model form, 1+1 would be less than 2 but I have found that it to be more like 3 although I have yet to find out the maximum length of train this consist can cope with on Struggleup. Harold.
  7. I always prefer to see/hear videos of sound-fitted locos running on a layout rather than a rolling road. Paul Chetter rightly receives a lot of praise for his diesel engine sounds but I think his steam loco sounds are equally praiseworthy. Judge this one for yourselves (assuming this link works). Harold.
  8. That's useful information - safely stored for possible future reference. Thanks, Harold.
  9. Paul, The transformer I use is from Kytes Lights. It gives 12v A/C from 240v mains and costs £14.99. It is listed under their "electrical parts" category. It can be used with a bridge rectifier if you want to use it for LEDs and it can be connected to a dimmer switch on the input side. I've no idea how it relates to DCC operation of the lights - my lights are controlled by flick switches. Harold.
  10. Thanks Ian - that's interesting. Whilst it is not relevant to my requirements, it suggests that the decoder cannot handle many grain-of-wheat/rice bulbs as I was told they draw about 80mA each. Just three lamps per port then! Harold. EDIT - correction - three lamps in total per decoder
  11. Paul, The information is not in the instructions. I have had a quick look on Hornby website but couldn't find the information. However, R8247 is stated to be suitable for driving Hornby's turntable which I would guess draws more current that platform lights. Signals might draw more than the lights for a short period but probably not as much as a set of points. I am sure Hornby's technical department would tell you the answer to your questions. How many lights are you planning to use? I don't know whether this will help you but I have nearly 150 of Kytes Lights bulbs on my layout, connected to one of his small transformers and they all work without trouble. when I asked how many bulbs the transformer would cope with, Joe said he thought about 80-100 so perhaps the lights do not draw as much current as I was led to believe. I hope that is so as I still have some more to instal. Harold.
  12. Hello John - thank you for your guidance. I think I have managed to get it right. The written instructions confuse by being too brief rather than wrong - it is the reference to the automatic creation of a second stopping point at 180 degrees that needs greater information. I had assumed that the bridge would stop each time one end reaches a selected track. When I realised that that doesn't happen - it only stops when the hut end reaches it - I knew I woould have to programme an imaginary track directly opposite where I wanted the bridge to stop. So far we agree. But, each time I programmed the opposite track, the programming of the original was deleted. The way mine now operates with Powercab is that, in order to get from 6.00 o'clock to 2.00 o'clock without turning the loco around, I have to select the notional track at 8.00 o'clock; if I then want to turn the loco around, I select the same track number again. This seems satisfactory as it now takes the shortest route to the selected track - and it really doesn't matter if the bridge turns clockwise or anti-clockwise. It also means that where I have two tracks directly opposite, they both operate on the same number - as it happenss, this is not the automatically numbered tracks 1 and 2 . A couple of observations: (1) I am surprised that there is no provision for fixing the supplied control panel to anything - a couple of screw holes through the casing would help (or lugs on the sides) and (2) there is no provision for aborting a selection once the bridge has been set in motion. An excellent product I think. Harold.
  13. I thought I would resurrect this thread rather than start a new one. I have fitted my Heljan 89121 and it is a delight to use - well, almost. There appers to be no way of controlling whether the bridge moves in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction. Using the supplied control panel, the move to an exit is started by pressing GoSet and the chip takes over. If you enter the bridge on a track at six o'clock and want to leave on a track at two o'clock you want the bridge to move clockwise but, like as not, it will go the other way - turning the loco round as a result. The only way I know to rectify that is to press GoSet again so the bridge turns through 180 degrees. Is this what is supposed to happen or am I missing something? It is no different when I use Powercab as the controller. Selecting (say) Accessory 229 for exit five brings up the screen offering a choice of "1" or "2" but the result is the same whichever number I press. Solving this would be the icing on the cake. Many thanks, Harold.
  14. Dave/John - thank you both. I have watched an installation video so I have some idea of what is involved, though actually doing something I find is usually more difficult than I expect. I have noted the warnings and will take care to "keep it clean". Interestingly, it shows up in the advertising with a different code number - 89121. I don't have RR&Co - I use NCE Powercab and Procab. As a matter of further interest, the manual says the TT should be powered from its own transformer (not supplied) but you say, John, that yours is just hooked up to the power bus; I wonder why a separate transformer is advised? Harold.
  15. Thanks Pete. The manual doesn't mention having to fit a decoder so it seems it doen't need anything else. A rare occasion when "DCC ready" menas exactly that! Harold.
  16. Hi All. I see that this product is available again in the UK. Gaugemaster has a kit without motor; others have DCC ready units with motor. My question is, what decoder is required to operate the turntable? I have a spare Bachmann 36-554 (21 pin) - would it be suitable? As the unit is DCC ready, I assume it is a question of plug-and-play (given the right decoder)? Harold.
  17. Glue that will only stick that tiny piece to my finger or the tweezers - or the wrong way round. And the accessory wire that refuses to go into the connecting block under the baseboard unless the screw is loose enough to fall out.
  18. Dave, I gave up on the Hornby turntable for a number of reasons but, although my layout is DCC, I operated the turntable via analogue with the standard switch. There was no problem with reverse polarity - the arrangement of the contacts underneath the bridge prevented it - but there was no power to the bridge rails while they were being turned. What I would say if you intend to incorporate that unit is, make sure that your locos approach the bridge dead straight or they may derail as they cross from the approach to the bridge - I found that I could only get good rail-alignment in one direction; when the rotation was reversed, the alignment was a long way out. If the locos appraoch straight on, the tolerance can be set in the middle. Harold.
  19. The one thing I remember from steam days is that stops at stations seemed interminable and this added greatly to journey times. It doesn't take long at 0mph to reduce average speed significantly. One reason was that the guard (or other operative) often walked the length of the train checking that doors were closed. I seem to remember clocking along at about 60mph on main lines (rough calculation based on frequency of clickety-click!)
  20. Just dug out a Hornby R8247 awaiting installation and there are detailed instructions in the paperwork for setting the output as continuous for controlling lights but, as you would expect, the instructions relate to programming with the Select and Elite controllers. I imagine it can be done with other controllers but I have not tried it. You have to change the value of the CV relating to the appropriate outlet (ie CV 515, 516, 517 or 518 for outlets 1-4 respectively) to zero. The paperwork does not state the output voltage etc. However, the label on the back of the unit states "input 15v AC; output 15v DC". I hope this helps. Harold.
  21. There are papers in the box with the decoders - do they not give the information you require? I use the decoders for my points and use a Powercab as my controller without difficulty, having changed recently from the Elite. I cannot say whether it would be the same with the Lenz but, since operation is successful with the Powercab, I suspect it would also be with the Lenz. I will check my papers tomorrow for the power output and post what I find if you have not found the answer in the mean time. Harold.
  22. How close is your ramp to a curve in the track? I had a similar problem with the Hornby Royal Mail operating set. Part of my problem was that I had already ballasted that section of track and had to remove it in order to get the ramp to sit as low as possible but my Bachmann class 108 DMU power bogie rode up the ramp and the train stopped. Carriages and wagons also uncoupled as they went over. I almost gave up but tried moving the ramps far enough from the curve for the locos and rolling stock to reach the ramps when running perfectly straight. I did this some weeks ago and, so far so good ...! Harold.
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