HLT 0109

DLPG - just found this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hornby-X6222-Rear-Bogie-Pony-Wheels-Green-Assembly-For-Thompson-L1-R2912-NEW/264838431702?hash=item3da999c3d6:g:p9AAAOSw-nRfPkx3 There are six pages of spares on the website - if green is wrong, there may be others - in any case painting the wheels should be difficult. Hope this helps, Harold.

Keith, Not sure what you would need but I purchased the item in this link https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0756PH1FB/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to drive this diorama. I added plastic gears and pulleys as necessary Harold.

Doesn't it need power to the track before it will work fully - connection no 4 of OP's first photo?

I have this year used up a solid block of white DAS that has been sitting in my loft since 2015. It was wrapped in cling film around the original packaging but obviously not airtight. If you shave pieces of the hard block into a container and add water, it will soften as much as youo want it and it can be used. You may not want it to use it where the finish matters incase it deteriorates but I have used it to fill gaps in basic scenery and even as a soft paste. It goes off again like the original. It is best done in small quantities and use a piece of wood to mash it from time to time while it softens. I used the cap of an aerosol as my container (which gives some idea of the quantities I found successful). In very small quantities it will be usable in about anhour but a larger quantity may need overnight. I don't think there is any chemical process - just the evaporation of moisture. Give it a try - you have nothing to lose. Harold.

Rob, you don't say whether you bought the loco new or used but, if you bought it from a retail outlet, I think you should report the problem to them, even if you are not in a position to return the item for repair. They may be able to advise you. Alternatively it is probably worth discussing the problem Bachmann customer Services. When I wnated some help with a replacement coach bogie, Bachmann referred me to BR LInes who managed to supply what i needed but, having just looked at his website, I suspect he may not have the sort of item you appear to need. Harold.

If it is a question of needing a motor attached in order to program the trailer car decoder, one way is to programme the power car and trailer together with the settings required for the trailer, then remove the trailer car from the track and reprogram the power car on its own with the settings it requires. if the trailer just needs to be addressed, then programming CV1 with the two cars together should do it. Harold.

Not sure if it is possible as I have not tried it but, as an alternative to what Michael has suggested, could you move the motors sideways so that the rods poke through a new hole in the end of each tie bar? It will depend on whether the width of the tie bar is enough for the correct size hole (and your skill with a drill). If there remains a problem with the over-cente spring then the Seep PM4 could be used in the new positions. Harold.

Paul, It does look as if you have used a bit too much ballast, and it can be difficult to remove just enough before gluing it in place. I have found it is worth while really taking time and being very careful. I lay the ballast between the rails first, leaving some space to brush/push any excess into, then clear the sleeper tops. I do the outsides of the rails next where it is easy to brush any excess out of the way. Also best not to do too much at once as it is esily disturbed by a wayward/tired finger or a suddenly released breath! I have never used Ballast Bond but find that the traditional diluted PVA with a dash of washing up liquid, applied with a cheap pipette after damping the ballast, works well without too much spread of mess. The main problem I have had when using Woodland Scenics ballast is that it is so lightweight, that even misting the dry ballast with water can disturb it. In your photos, some areas of the ballast appear to have received more Ballast Bond than other parts. Small amounts of excess ballast can be removed later by scraping with (say) a craft knife or suitable screwdriver but, how hard it sticks, will depend on what PVA or other glue you use. Harold.

Instinct tells me what you suggest would result in a short when power is reapplied to the turntable - though I am not an electrician. Wouldn't a stay alive in each loco maintain the sound over the dead spot? It would then be bemeficial elsewhere on the layout. Harold.

Colin, When I visited last year, I discovered that the naval battle takes place in the lake in Peasholm Park - this lake is in the Northstead Manor Gardens - which is the other side of Burniston Road. Just as well - showing the aircraft doing a bombing raid might be too difficult. I hope to make some padaloes for the boating lake , and I am wondering if I can do a couple of Water Walker balloons. Thank you for your comment. Harold.

It appears that my query has everyone stumped - plenty of views though! Nothing daunted, I put on my thinking cap, made many searches of the internet for possible mechanisms, drew and revised a few sketches and, after a some trial and error came up with a working water chute. I invite yoou to comment on the result:

I agree - if it is done before ballasting. It shouldn't be too difficult to align the inserted point with the existing track and fix it permanently in place before soldering the connecting wire. Alignment can be checked by pushing rolling stock across the joins and adjustment made then if necessary. However, best to align with rail joiners if practicable. Sometimes more damage can be caused by trying to insert a reluctant rail joiner or even sliding one along. If droppers are attached to the replacement point before insertion, then a wire soldered across the joints is unnecessary.

There is not going to be much expansion over the length of a single point - a gap of 1mm should be OK - especially if there is 1mm at both ends. The soldered wire to carry power across the gap at the toe end can be flexible.

Instead of isulated rail joiners, just leave a gap. At the toe end (and any other live joints) a piece of wire soldered to the outside of each rail instead of trying to fit rail joiners is effective. It is of course crucial to ensure correct alignment of the rails first. Harold.

My query relates to an animated water chute. On my new 009 layout I have a water chute formed of a short length (about 500mm), straight, inclined track on which there is a passenger gondola. The gondola desecnds by gravity into a lake and is then hauled slowly up the incline to a hut at the top where the passengers embark/alight. There are many tiny motors available that could be used for the winch but I need to be able to release the drive so that the gondola is free to run down the incline by gravity. A rope is permanently attached to the back of the gondola. In one response to the earlier thread on the swing bridge, is a comment that a motor, once the power is disconnected, would be free to rotate backwards. If that is so, then perhaps I am overthinking the problem with my winch but, if it is not so, I will need a means of disconnecting the motor drive. I wonder if someone could guide me as to how best to achieve what I want? The objective is to achieve this without manual intervention other than flicking a switch or two. The track and gondola are unpowered and the motor will need to be housed withiin the hut or its supports as it straddles a baseboard joint and needs to be removeable. The footprint of the hut will be about 90mm x 60mm and the gondola weighs only about 10gr with passengers. I think I can deal with stopping the gondola at the bottom before it leaves the lake or reaches the end of the rope! Many thanks, Harold.

I was thinking more that you should not have one train in a loop and another outside it, or in the other loop.

Employing "Rule 1" and facing a similar dilemma some years ago, I created this on my 00 gauge loft layout. The only purpose of the flyover is to get vehicles to and from the goods yard. I had intended to place a scenic area over part of the area but, like you, decided it would hide too much of my work. Harold

I have not used this device (nor seen it before) but I read the website as follows: as the train passes sensor 1 (in the left hand loop in their double loop diagram) it ensures that the points are correct for the train to go along main line and into the right hand loop. The diagram shows the connection of power feeds that ensure there is no short as the train passes each point. Then, as the train passes sensor 2 in the right hand diagram (which is just before the exit of the loop) the points change and the polarity of the power in the rest of the track is changed. The train the progresses to the left hand loop an takes the anti-clockwise direction to sensor 2which then makes the points change again and puts the polarity back to where it was in the rest of the track. Note, if you want the train to travel clockwise round either loop, it is done by swapping the appropriate feeds from the module. Looks like a useful piece of kit. I must stress however, that I have not use it and my comments are based only on studying the information on the website. Someone else may be along to challenge what I have said A word of caution - you will need to wnsure that, when each sensor is triggered, the train is entirely contained with in the loop (especially if there are pickups on the carriages/wagons) as a short will occur otherwise - and I think you would have trouble if you ran more than one train at once., Harold.

Is this the same? https://www.hobbies.co.uk/tools/hand-tools/multi$9angle-guillotine?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaignid=6727975578&utm_campaign=Shopping-Research_Campaign&utm_term=&adid=388174523725&addisttype=gpla&matchtype=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuovRvtHr6gIV2-7tCh1SBQbmEAQYDSABEgIcBvD_BwE I Googled Multi Angle Guillotine and received multiple options. Harold.

I have am using 3mm dia x 2mm depth neodymium, disc magnets on my 009 layout, to operate Dapol easi shunt couplers. I guess these couplers will need much less magnetic force than the Dave Kirby system, which I have never used. However, I obtained my supply last year from Magnet Expert.com who had previously supplied me with larger magnets of the same type to secure the removable loads in the wagons for my 00 gauge layout. Before purchasing the first supply (in 2013), I asked the company's advice and I am sure you find them equally helpful if you were to discuss your requirement with them. This link https://www.magnetexpert.com/ should take you to their site where you will find pictures and specifications of all the types they stock. I believe their pricing is good too. My only connection is as a satisfied customer. Harold.

. . . but, if using the incandescent, grain of wheat/rice bulbs, allow 1 watt per bulb, which will limit you to 100 bulbs.

If the motor runs freely without the wheelks turning, the problem must surely be with the gears - cogs or worm drive not meshing? Is something in that area loose that should be tight? I am not familiar with the inner workings of the Backmann 4f but, if something is stuck and nothing is loose, I can't believe the motor would turn. Harold.

Well done. It is always rewarding to make something unique.

When I was faced with the same problem, I was unable to find the range evident in Andrew575s links (the Busch one would have suited me) but I bought a sheet of Isopon mesh used for car body repairs and am making my own (see example in the attached picture ). The posts are spent matchsticks. The benefit of the mesh is that it can be cut with scissors to one's own size (ie femce height). It is a bit sharp so care is needed but I was able to fold over the edge easily with pliers to create a smooth top. The mesh needs to be spray painted with a primer (I used a car body primer spray can) before painting with the desired finish. For glue, I used Deluxe materials Roket card Glue. One benefit of the mesh is that it it distorts easily when the fence is required on a gradient - I don't know whether this applies to the proprietary versions. Harold.

Andy, The templates can be downloaded from the Peco website and printed off at home. Just check with a ruler that your prints have printed off 100% correct size - the templates contain an image of a ruler that shows the sizing. Harold.