Nicktoix

Don't forget the hooks on the buffer beams for the shunter's poles. I did until I painted up and had to go scraping paint off. Lightly scribe across them from the half etches on the body of the etch gives a guide to the fold lines. Nick

The running plate should overhang the buffer beams but only by a small amount Nick

10ba is sure the way to go. Also tap the crank and use them there as well. Nick

Nice work Nick

L11 Nick

A little light weathering might be called for.

I just assumed that was a generic name roather than reality. Nick

Can someone name these unreliable couriers? Nick

PM sent Nick

But I only use it for occasional electrical work otherwise it's phosphoric acid at a suitable dilution. I've probably had the tin of Fluxite for at least 20 years. I saw an even bigger tin recently that would probably life several lifetimes. Nick

Yes can do. I have sent you a PM Nick

Final view

I missed some rivets on the cab roof and vent but have added these to the drawings. There should also be a strip of rivets under the roof and along the cab front and back. These have also been added to the etch The roof is held in by tube in each corner of the cab and legs of wire soldered to the roof. The wipers were so small they were a pain to make but worth it I think. So that's it basically. There is one challenge ahead which is the cab side windows. They stand proud of the cab and I have a plan to make them by layering etches and glazing after painting. It should work (says he hopefully). Hooks attached to buffer beam Finished item but missing vac pipes to come from Laurie Griffin Sorry for the different picture sizes. They are all 8cm wide from Photoshop but here seem to have a life of their own. NIck

I etched the front separate to the main casing thinking that it would be easier to handle when shaping the front. This was a mistake as it was tricky to get the front and the main casing to match properly. The corrected etch has it all in one piece. I soldered some 1.2mm copper wire in to joint between the front and the sides of the radiator to give some extra bulk where it would be filed back to shape. Once the casing is fixed it's then just down to detail and doing it in the right order. The cab door handrails go on before the cab floor followed by the control desk (all the levers fixed before fitting) and finally the control panel. There are a lot of lamp brackets especially on the southern region engines. The fillers are all brass turnings but could easily be made up from telescopic tube. Don't understand the variation in picture size though. Nick

Onto the body. The cab assembly is straightforward with tabs fitting into slots on the footplate. The edges of the footplate are bent over rather than the more traditional valance arrangement. The slots are filled with solder from behind. I made them rather too wide but now corrected on the etch The engine casing was a bit of a challenge. I had two sets of body etchings. One I bent without annealing and as it shows in the photos it didn't bend well the centre of the bend is very different from the ends even though there are half etched lines in the bend area. Annealing along the half etched lines with a small blowtorch made all the difference. I much prefer nickel silver to brass because of the ease of soldering but I suspect that these bends are easier in brass. Fitting the doors is easy but the handles are tedious and I added a small jig to the etch to make bending them easier. The radius on it is a guide to the radius of the front of the casing. Rapid progress now NIck

Nothing special about the wheels (Slaters do the correct pattern) or rods etc. I have forgotten to put the “hooks” on the buffer beams will have to scrape some paint off and do them later. And yes the pickups were awkward. Plungers would be better or leave off the brake gear. One problem I have yet to solve is the sandbox outlets Prototype Model The answer might be lost wax castings but that will depend on my ability to make masters and the price Nick

They are a quality item from a quality supplier. No duds there Nick

The steps are attached to the frames. The rear set are screwed to the rear spacer to allow removal to allow access to the drive crank. The front set are soldered on. The sandboxes are moulded using a 3d printed master by innocentman of this parish. The air tanks are also mouldings from my own masters. Plenty of room for the motor and gearbox. The buffers are from NMRS and fitted with oval overlays. The reason for the slot in the frames now shows. A piece of wire is soldered to the end of the buffer shank and passes thro' the slot which stops the buffers turning. Nick

If you like me get fed up with chasing screws about especially when fitting motors. (the magnetism take the little b*ggers everywhere). Then you need these. Screw holding drivers. Avail able from https://www.hswalsh.com/categories/allen-hex-key-screw-holding This is a cross pointed holding a motor fixing screw and holding 10BA counstersunk. They will hold 6BA to 14BA Once you have them you wonder how ever managed without. Nick

The plan can be exported as a .dxf with a whole range of options. Nick

More progress on the brakes. I found the covers on the pivots quite distinctive so had to include them. The brake mechanism can't be seen under the loco but I thought I put it in anyway. Should have added a piece of tube and a small nut over the leading pull bar to simulate the adjuster. That is going to make fitting pickups awkward but ho hum ! Nick

Can I resurrect this thread. Does anyone know of any drawings of these locos. If not: has anyone got good square on photos of the front or rear. I have found some good side views and with some end views it may be possible to produce some drawings. I would then look at getting etches made. I see this as a challenge. Nick

Leeds MRS are building a 7mm model of Plymouth Friary engine shed. When complete it will be about 42ft overall with a 25ft viewing area. There was a variety of locos allocated to the shed usually several of the same type. Most can be provided from existing kits, O2, M7 and West Countries. But one or two are harder to come by. The shed had several B4s which when withdrawn were replace by Drewry O4s. The B4s I have already done. The only sources of the O4s is a Vulcan kit or Sang Cheng brass. Neither are easy to come by and given the variations in the O4s I decided to produce some etches and build them Variations in O4s are numerous. The first few had different size wheels, different cabs and sandboxes. They are various footplate patterns i.e. diamond and (what I call) “flecked” . The chassis was etched in 22th nickel silver and the body in 15th. Nothing special about the basic chassis. The rear pair of wheels are compensated. The reason for slot in the frames behind the buffer beams will become apparent later

Yes it was a monster and I did build the station building, it was Wakefield Kirkgate. The outer line of the goods loop is missing in the scan of the track plan. Remember - The exhibition at Barrow in Furness on a ballroom floor when it decided it wanted to do a dance of its own. Restrained by a nail in the stage and string tied from it round the layout. - The track circuits which would give a useful tingle to nosey fingers - 5 floors up and down in Dock Street - "Turn your f***ing link off !!!" Nick

The info sheet on the front gave minimal info e.g place and time. I'm going to do a detailed history pull-up after we've been to Chapel in case we get more history. Nick