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Nicktoix

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Everything posted by Nicktoix

  1. Except it is mallet as proposed by Mr Hughes of the L&Y. See Mike Edge's thread https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/67706-horwich-mallet-0-6-6-0/ Also known as "The Hammer" Nick
  2. IMHO the Kemilway valve gear etch has never been surpassed. Proper forked joints where they should be and carefully detailed. A contrast to the flat etchings produced by all others. Nick
  3. Sorry for not responding sooner but I have a very flaky connection at the moment. Andy is correct. Voltage only shows you power available not possible connection to it. The led will fade as you increase the output to the loco. Nick
  4. There was a complex of drove roads in Scotland which led to Falkirk area. They make very good lowish level walking routes through the Highlands. Nick
  5. A set of parts by TC for a Midland clerestory compo. Nick
  6. Later Trevor Charlton sides had the windows cut out along with the drop lights but that was it. They also had an evil coating on the inside which was a pig to remove. You had to remove some if you wanted to solder the together. Soldering zinc is another experience I don't want to repeat. Nick
  7. Trevor Charlton did coach sides and ends etched in zinc using process from printing industry. They were certainly not kits but made up very well with beautifully smooth surface. They were made to order from a huge list. I still have a couple unmade. Nick
  8. It's a long time snice I've posted anything but I have been involved in other project so it's taken a while to get back to this loco. Most of the major pipework around the front end is done. The chimney and dome are 3d prints. The generator is from the scrap box. I need to turn the whistles and what I think is the vacuum ejector but it's a bit cool in the garage right now so it will have to wait. Nick
  9. No I don't think it is. That only shows you are sending power to the loco it will light up without any loco in circuit. My version shows that a loco is detected even if the controller is set to zero. However I could be wrong. I work by experimentation as much as theory. Nick
  10. Metalsmiths (Leeds) http://www.metalsmith.co.uk/ Nick
  11. I have used a very similar circuit for 30+ years but using a TIP121 as the only "transistor ". It works well and can be crammed into a handheld unit. Can get warm when operating O gauge! One useful addition is to have an led with suitable resistor across the collector and emitter of the output device. That will give you an indication that a loco is in circuit. A sad omission from almost all commercially available controllers. Nick
  12. Except that is an antiques business in the USA Nick
  13. I have been using home made cdus for more than 35 years with much bigger capacitors than in the commercial units. I have never had a problem with any kind of plug and socket including 25 way units. These days I generally use 7/.2 wire which is plenty. In the past I used 40 way telephone cables but only gave that up 'cos it was single core. And these were on big club layouts 35x16ft with lots of H&M point motors. Nick
  14. They are castings enclosed in sheet metal casings. Nick
  15. How will these do you. They will need cleaning up and some filler to blend them to the body but they might be ok. PM me your address. Nick
  16. Lots of laser cut on Ebay. I can recommend fair price models. Nick
  17. Don't use Maskol use Copydex instead as recommended by Ian Rathbone. Nick PS Hadn't read Ian's response when I posted
  18. Go from home page to general info, button on lhs, contact details at bottom of page. Nick
  19. Does the job perfectly. Thanks for your help. Nick
  20. Thanks for that I think I've got the idea. I'll try it later. Nick
  21. Over the last couple of years I've managed to improve my 3d draughtsmanship so I can manage most things including LNWR chimneys. But smokebox doors defeat me. I can draw the door profile and rotate it to produce a door but how to put the hinges etc. on it. I've tried embossing but I can't get that to work it just wants to cut a hole in the body. How can it be done ? Bearing in mind that most doors have a complex curved surface rather than just a plain arc. Help much appreciated. Nick
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