Les Bird

Try Lendons of Cardiff. They carry a large range of Hornby spares and some snow ploughs are listed

Not with this one. It's the older type with the spring cover underneath and, as I said, the underneath is damaged

That's not a bad idea, I hadn't thought of that

Thank you for the replies. It looks as if I'll be able to solve my problem. I think the Seep PM4 will fit the bill.

I have a Peco double slip with a faulty spring. I know they can be replaced but the underneath of the slip is damaged. I don't really want to fork out the best part of £50 for a new point and I don't want to take up the one I have. Does anyone make a point motor with built in over centre spring? That would be the simplest way to sort it.

Thanks for that

They look as if they might fit the bill. Thanks for the link

I'm in the process of adding pick ups to the trailer car of a DMU. Obviously I need to connect these to the power car but I would prefer not to make the connection permanent. Can anyone suggest a source of miniature plugs and sockets?

I have kept a Hornby Dublo Co-Bo specifically to haul a track cleaner. It never fails

If you have no problem using an aerosol, I can thoroughly recommend Tamiya fine surface primer. it covers well but doesn't obscure fine detail. By the way, a lot of washing up liquids leave behind a film which is supposed to stop food items clinging to the surface. so it will probably fend off paint too.

I have a Stephen Poole kit for a GER 2-4-2T. As supplied, it will only run on straight track. It's effectively an 0-8-0 with no sideplay on the axles.

Just been looking at Accurascale's email about the Deltic. Given the level of detail, the price is exceptionally impressive.

Try Sunrise transfers. They have a huge range and I'm fairly sure Lancashire United is listed

One or possibly two of these were sent to Romford (GE) after some wagons ran away down the incline into the yard and ended up in South Street.

They look really good

I have a couple of the EAMES white metal St. Helens fronts. If you'd like to PM me we can sort something out

It certainly does.

Thanks to Pete's timely advice and prompt service from Tramfabriek, the N7 is now back to full health. Transferring the flywheel/universal joint socket was simple and the replacement motor fits perfectly.

One method I read about years ago is to place the brick paper on the plastic and then apply a generous amount of MekPak over the sheet. It soaks through and sticks the paper down. I've been using this method for many years and it works.

This a very useful and informative site. As a matter of interest, there is a sign between Guisborough and Saltburn with a sign containing a C prefixed road number. It's the only one I have ever seen.

I think you will find that the axles are 9/64 of an inch in diameter. You can use bushes to reduce the size of the wheel holes in the chassis (you will need one for the worm wheel too) or, if you look on the Scalelink website, you will find 9/64 axles onto which Markits/Romford wheels can be mounted. They have the knurled section in the centre for the worm wheel.

Thanks for that PJT. I might just give that a go. Otherwise the N7 becomes a good looking static exhibit!

It's done it again! The N7 has stopped working and it seems there's no easy fix this time. The motor bearings are all ok this time and the motor spins freely if I rotate it by hand. However, applying power to the motor contacts simply triggers the short circuit cutout on the controller. Briefly, it ran forwards but not backwards suggesting that something was seizing but everything is free. Now it doesn't run at all. I've given up on it now. This is my first Oxford locomotive and it looks like being my last. As a comparison, I have another N7 which is a Wills kit on a Triang Jinty chassis with Hornby Dublo wheels. It is over 50 years old and totally reliable.

I have the same problem and, no, there is no cure

Problem solved or, at least, I hope so. I tried applying power directly to the motor and it ran reasonably well in one direction but not the other. The armature obviously gets moved a very small amount for and aft as it meshes with the gears. As it refused to run in one direction I began to suspect the rear armature bearing so I applied a small amount of oil to the bearing. With the wheels removed taking the load off the motor, it then ran in both directions. After allowing the motor to run for several minutes, I reassembled the locomotive (what a trial that was!). It now runs as it should.