Les Bird

The old Merit (now Peco) figures can be chopped about and repositioned like these two

Sorry I should have said my layout is 00. Woodland Scenics seems to be popular so I'll give that a try. Thanks to everyone for the replies.

I think that may be a little too fine for my purposes but I'll bear it in mind

I'm in the process of relaying some track and am looking for recommendations for ballast. In the past I've used allegedly 00 scale ballast but it seems quite coarse to me. I've been looking at WWS extra fine ballast. Does anyone have any experience of using this!

EZ line is good for this, It will still need a little weight to make it hang straight but it remains resilient so it withstands the odd knock. I've used it simulate trolleybus overhead and it works well.

I've read all the comments on here with interest. I have had a Dapol track cleaner for a long time but it has had little use because I've been too busy with various projects and haven't run the layout much. The track has been manually cleaned but I decided today to run the track cleaner. Without any of the attachments fitted, the motor ran when current was applied. As soon as I fitted the felt head, the motor only ran in fits and starts and then stopped altogether. I've come to the conclusion that it was a waste of money. The old Triang one did a better job.

I'm glad it's not only me that loses things that way. My work is usually done in a room with a carpet and it's difficult finding small components on its surface. It also never ceases to amaze me how far even small items can bounce. When all else fails I ask my daughter to look and she nearly always manages to find things, sometime even things I didn't know I'd lost.

I must admit that I am surprised by some of the negative comments regarding this manufacturer. I have always received what I ordered without problems.

I use dried tea leaves too. They work well and it gives an excuse to drink more tea!

It also received wire handrails and sat lower on the frames

Almost certainly true given that some of Hornby's are already in stock

I've always preferred earlier liveries to those of the National Bus Company but the dual purpose version is a bit better than the overall schemes. Your model looks very smart.

It could be condensation forming when you put on the heating. I've noticed this in my shed which is wood and well insulated. A metal shed might make the problem worse.

One of the best sites for Scottish bus transfers is Sunrise Transfers. You can find them via modelbuszone.co.uk

One thing struck me about these reviews. In the case of the 94xx, the review states that fitting lights isn't an easy option for steam locomotives. In the Ivatt pacific review, one of the "cons" is a lack if lighting. Seems a bit biased to me.

A slightly better picture. There was a label underneath but all the wording has faded. It is a Busch product and I suspect it may be for flashing lights at roadworks

Having started a long overdue tidy up, I came across this component. I can't for the life of me remember what it's for. Any suggestions?

We've always used a 50/50 mix of water and white vinegar. It works well,

Where it says you save 63%, I think they mean you pay 63% of the normal price. Or are my maths suspect?

How long I wonder before we see a DCC brake van with working brakes?

I have a few Trix EM1's but the drive system is quite different. The drive shaft is in two halves and I have one so I'll try to make another one to match.

it's interesting to see that the model appears to be more popular than the real thing!

It really depends on how the connection has been made. Is it a plug and socket that can be easily separated or is it more permanent. If the former, unplugging and replugging shouldn't cause any damage but, if done frequently it could cause the connection to become loose over time.

On the Base Toys Lodekka, the radiator grill is a separate fitting glued to the front of the bus. If you slide a single edged razor blade behind the grill, you can cut through the glue and GENTLY prise it off. This will reveal a small tab protruding through the front. The body shell is plastic and, again gently, you can insert a small screwdriver into the join between the body and chassis and lever the chassis out. There is another tab behind the rear number plate but this will also yield to gentle levering. You may find that the chassis will no longer clip in but it can always be glued back in. I usually use PVA for this as it is then easy to remove again if you need to,