Ralf

12 hours ago, ITG said:

I’m a fan of laser cut ply boards. Do you actually need to separate the two scalescenes boards?

No Ian I don't, think I was simply looking for something too close to box file sized to make the bodging minimal. That's a good point about 300mm wide boards, certainly an avenue to look at.

Thanks
Ralf 

Hi Folks, 

Trying to get things moving and actually achieve some modelling, so looks like a Scalescenes boxfile is the order of the day, small, self contained, planning all done, sounds like it might be achievable, something I can then build on. 

Now I'm not sure I actually fancy floppy box files chopped up with no height underneath or stuff... - So how about a ScaleModelScenery BB010 Diorama base - it's around an inch bigger all round than a box file, if I use a pair - one with a back scene (thick black lines below) and the other as the fiddle yard / cassette storage area it sounds too good to be true, although hardly the budget option. 

Diorama board link - https://www.scalemodelscenery.co.uk/bb010-diorama-baseboard-large-double-ended-1744-p.asp

Scalescenes boxfile layout - https://scalescenes.com/product/ly02-canal-wharf-boxfile-layout/

Does this sound like a plan? Or have I missed an obvious pitfall? All I need to do is extend the water forwards a little and the back scene between the warehouse and the bridge and the job will be a fish - surely?? 

Thanks

Ralf

I almost offered to ask a florist friend of mine... Googled Tulip Edge Protectors and find that Tulips 🥀 are not involved... 

Ralf

13 hours ago, RonnieS said:

During the lockdown I built from kits or modified 45 wagons. These remained unpainted in a box until recently as I already had more stock than I needed.

A visit to Tony Wright’s Little Bytham a few weeks ago convinced me that

1) I had lost my “Modelling Mojo” and

2) that that a surplus of stock is OK.

I restarted the project and progress, although slow is listed below

Glad to hear some mojo is returning, I think any remaining mojo I'd have had would have been scared off by seeing something as vast and well modelled as Little Bytham! Glad to hear it's had the opposite effect. 

As for surplus stock, I'm still on the fence, can't resist purchases but know it's likely to be sold having not been unboxed in a few years! 

Love the concept of Stand Off Scale, you'll need to view my efforts from a very long way away!! 

Cheers and keep it up! 

Ralf

18 hours ago, Erichill16 said:

I know this is probably not quite what you’re interested in but here’s a link to my club, Barnsley MRC’s, tramway layout, Yorkshire Coast Tramway.

Wow!! Seriously impressive stuff, having visited the Island there's plenty of bits I recognise and some stunning modelling. 

Ralf

18 hours ago, BR60103 said:

Note that pantograph wire wanders so that it doesn't wear a groove in the collector.

 

Ah, do Trolley Pole only set-ups not intentionally wander then? Just assumed they did, but why would they? 

Ralf

Hi All,

Have always had a lurking curiosity of overhead powered odd industrial steeple cabs electrons and harbour a desire to have some overhead on a layout one day. Well as a keen tramway photographer (esp heritage) and beginner modeller, today is the day - perhaps pushed given a recent RTR announcement (ahem).

So I realise I know virtually nothing about old tramway style overhead! I know a little about the prototype and even less about modelling it, a little bit of research has filled in a few gaps / found some reading:

Mark Hughes etches - https://glostransporthistory.visit-gloucestershire.co.uk/Mark Hughes Models.htm available from him or from East Lancs Model Tramway Supplies.

East Lancs Model Tramway Supplies themselves list stuff here (http://www.themodeltramshop.com/catalogues-downloads/) in their catalogue incl a starter pack... But what do I need? 

Then there’s this article on a shoestring: https://www.tramwayinfo.com/tramways/Download/Overhead.pdf

Some terms explained here http://www.bathtram.org/tfb/tEars.htm

BUT I’ve still got questions if you will indulge me:

Ears: - seem to be the joining items between span wires and the traction wire, how do I solder the traction wire under an ear mounted on the layout hanging from a span wire?

Hangers: - No idea, Mark Hughes makes 3 versions?

Pull Off’s: - To do with tensioning the traction wire on curves, not currently an issue for me, it's a narrow straight layout, except the crossovers (oh 'eck...??) 

Frogs: - I understand re: Trolley Poles but do I need the same ones for Pantograph / Bow Collector operation? (I have ZERO interest) in using model trolley poles it looks like a headache)

Cantilever poles are out aren’t they? A frightfully(ish) modern concept and not for the 60s-80s industrial backwaters?

Finally how on earth do I model the attaching of the span wire to buildings or the traction poles? Any guidance, tips, reading, references to either the prototype or the modelling of it would be much appreciated. Phew I hope that makes sense, I've been reading the links and going round in circles looking for advice! 

Many thanks 
Ralf 

ps Yes in 4mm scale / 1:75 which I failed to make clear other than hinting via the RTR reference) 

On 24/11/2022 at 21:05, Butler Henderson said:

Subscription copies are already out -as per an earlier posting being developed by Revolution and samples expected early in the New Year

I've hunted high & low in the latest BRM for info on these VoR tanks - eventually the penny has dropped, I need to look in MR!!

Looking forward to them...

Ralf

On 14/09/2022 at 16:01, brossard said:

Ah, well, the brush you reviewed is not the one I have. 

https://www.neatandhandy.com/products/premium-airbrush-for-hobbies-crafts

 

It looks very similar to the one @Phil Parker reviewed except the colour and the retailer. Are you sure it's not from the same manufacturer?  

Thanks
Ralf

11 minutes ago, Les1952 said:

NO PLACE is having a day out at Belper towards the end of this month

Any further details / pointers, it's local for me and would like a look at the layout... 

Ta

Ralf

16 hours ago, Quarryscapes said:

Painting with a brush.

Thank you @Quarryscapes, much appreciated I'm glad it's simply the wrong paint and not technique / surface prep.

The model colour range doesn't seem to have the primers included. They do Hobby Surface Primers which look like the Model Colour range but it simply says "Surface Primer can be used directly or diluted with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner of Flow Improver." so I assume they are spray only? 

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/category/hobby/surface-primer-en/

15 hours ago, Les Bird said:

If you have no problem using an aerosol, I can thoroughly recommend Tamiya fine surface primer.

Thanks Les, I vaguely do I don't enjoy it, uncomfortable and it never looks great but thats based on usually doing bigger flatter things than a 4mm wagon kit. Will try and find some brushable primer but keep the Tamiya in mind. 

Cheers

Ralf

Hi Folks, 

This must be an easy ask but I'm stumped so here goes... 

Firstly we take an Airfix meat van roof, firstly 2 panels have been abraded with a fibreglass brush, then the left hand side is cleaned with CIF and the right hand side with Fairy, both using a toothbrush and warm water. So it goes:

CIF, CIF + Abrasion, nothing, nothing, Fairy + Abrasion, Fairy from Left to Right... 

Then we take our well shaken paint... 

Then we try and paint the inside of the van roof, thicker further away from the camera, thinner nearer the camera... 

While I was at it I found a part built (not by me) airfix mineral sat on the work bench so the left hand side was treated with paint and the right hand side was thinned down. 

As you can see none of the painting is anywhere like satisfactory, so what am I doing wrong / not doing? 

Frustrated of Derby (aka Ralf) 

ps I've tried some Citadel Blue (no idea which shade) as well with very similar results, so I don't think it's the paint... 

43 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said:

 Give them a wash in lukewarm washing up liquid. Then rinse off.

They tend to be covered with an oily substance that is difficult to get rid of.

Thanks Jason I gave it a bit of a wash with some modern fancy blue fairy but no joy... Maybe more soap or effort is needed. 

40 minutes ago, 41516 said:

They should be - have a look at the first picture in Mr Bartlett's gallery as previously posted. The front face of the door should be flush with the frame.

Drat!! That'll teach me a lesson. I assumed it was something to do with the doors being opening... Well in this example the van is fitted with flush doors! . Thank you very much @41516 as I'd have repeated that mistake is no-one shouted up! 

Thanks 
Ralf

On 26/02/2022 at 17:56, Michael Hodgson said:

I think I left the hinges on until after assembly when I did them.

They need proper wheels of course, and some extra weight.

That would have been an easier option - but it didn't occur to me...

Wheels sorted, weight planned. 

So I hacked off the hinges from both sides off the door and then realised the model is designed to have the door stand proud - I think - see image, so I cut / scraped / filed the lump off and bingo here we are...

Floor extension piece - prior to removal.

I needed to hold it flat somehow... Square held in the vice obliged quite nicely.

What to do here beyond filling the holes is currently a mystery!

Next to paint but my Vallejo Primer doesn't want to stick... 

Thanks

Ralf

1 hour ago, BernardTPM said:

Judging by the boxes those have got to be late '70s or early '80s ones.

3 boxes have price stickers for both 55p and 60p which I'd guess dates it quite closely. 

9 hours ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

As As to what to do with the doors, cut off all the hinge detail from the door and frame and fill the resultant gap in with a piece of plastic strip.

To add a bit of variety, remove the vents on one or two and modify the ends, if relevant to your modelling period.

There are threads on the forum dealing with builds of these wagons.

Thanks Mike, think I will vary them later as I get through the batch. 

Any pointers to threads involving the building of these kits? I've read plenty of mostly prototype info threads mostly regarding their original colour or ale conversions. 

Thanks - I'm off to cut the door hinges off! Have a nasty feeling the designed gap / tolerance will mean if I glue the doors together and up hard against the sides my full side will not be long enough... 

Ralf

39 minutes ago, Ian Fisher said:

H&A models retail a neat little countersunk drill that sets the bearing true into the axle boxes/Wiron. Most just need a little material clearing.

This? https://www.hamodels.net/wheel-bearing-cutting-tool-for-4mm-wagons-coaches.html or this one: https://www.micromark.com/HO-Truck-Tuner_2 any thoughts on which is the best bet? Both looks better than using a power drill aiming into the Axlebox preying you don't come through the other side... 

39 minutes ago, Ian Fisher said:

As for hinges try filling them back? You don't want to keep them being able to open and close do you?

No certainly not...

@crackedmember thanks for the pointer, planning on brush painting the wagon, don't really like aerosol paints and I'm not after an ex works finish, a beaten up grotty departmental finish is where I'm aiming... 

20 minutes ago, andyman7 said:

The inner buffer beam prongs were the limiters for the swing of a Dublo/Simplex/Airfix coupling and the outer ones were theoretically the locating pins for a Triang tension lock coupler, so for a scale build they can indeed all come off

Thanks @andyman7 I shall glee-fully chop them all off, I thought there was 4 but could only see 3 in the picture! 

Cheers and hopefully more news tomorrow...

Ralf

So this all began after a visit to Doncaster show with a friend, in an attempt to revitalise many years of on / off and stalled modelling a purchased a bargain - 4 Airfix Meat Van kits for £15... The idea being I can make a total mess of them and waste little but hopefully learn a lot, being especially scared of paint and my lack of skills.

So the journey starts with the building of wagon #1... I have filed down the rear of the W Irons to try and squeeze top hat bearings in whilst keeping the axle boxes vertical - nah didn't work, so rather than the countersink them method (using a dill countersink) I've opted for drilling the holes deeper and flangeless bearings (Wizzard Models) 

Does anyone have any tips on what to do with the ludicrously large hinges - other than cut them off? Hoping I can glue the four sections (2 bits of wall and 2 doors) of the side together then assemble as 1 piece... 

Lastly  the three vertical bits hanging from the buffer beam all need to go don't they? (Ooops that vac pipe isn't straight is it!) 

Thanks for reading... 

Ralf

ps They're going to become industrial / internal bauxite vans somewhat later than their original limited meaty life... 

pps Pics restored, as I'm trying to return to actively modelling! 

I emailed them a quick query the other evening (probably a week or more now) and got a very fast response clarifying things. Have yet to actually finish the order mind you...

Ralf 

3 hours ago, Hairy Bear Digital said:

Bus from Doncaster Frenchgate is stand B2.

Service 101  and it's free !

Super, was wondering where exactly it left from for tomorrows trip. Assume it's 1 bus going back and forth with no fixed timetable? 

4 hours ago, Mike Bellamy said:

 

I wonder if @Ralf would agree with you . . . . . . 

.

@Ian Fisher I'd cross out promising!! The rest of it looks ok!! 

Thanks for the mention!

Ralf

7 hours ago, brmmarketing said:

Good morning,

WOR Plus/ RMweb Gold members receive 1 free ticket to one of our 3 shows, not a discounted ticket. Paper subscribers receive the discounted show tickets. If you would like to claim your free ticket for Doncaster please email BRM@warnersgroup.co.uk as soon as possible today.

Thanks for the clarification, e-mail sent - and helpful prompt reply received. 

Ralf

1 hour ago, russ p said:

Is the offer of a free ticket for gold members still on?

Yes but if you've not applied it's too late for Doncaster - deadline was Fri 4th Feb. Just read in the Gold Lounge. 

Does anyone know how to get the £10 subscriber tickets? I've seen it says enter your "Subscriber No:" with the prefix D22 (and no leading 0's) but all I can find is my "Order No" and my "Account Code", but no "Subscriber No:" am I looking in the wrong place? 

Thanks 

I've got Railway Bylines saved until Nov 2019, if anyone has time / skills / inclination to take it and run with it I'd be very happy to share... 

Sorry I can't help @WILLIAM.

Ralf

On 02/06/2021 at 16:40, Nick C said:

Has anyone any experience of the above? I ordered a couple of their kits on 14th May, after seeing one on @Barclay's Saltport thread. Had a 'order dispatched' email on the 18th, but nothing since. I emailed him to ask if he had any tracking info, but have had no reply, nor is there any reply on the 'message us' thing on their website. The tracking link in the email doesn't work, instead taking me to some app download page. 

Any news about an outcome on this Nick? Just tempted looking to place an order so been reading up on them...

Ta

Ralf

On 01/03/2021 at 19:31, Andrew D said:

Under the counsel of a friend who is an electrical engineer I did some troubleshooting, and it appears that the Bridge Rectifier I made from the 4 diodes is leaking a lot of AC through to the track, which doesn’t bother the old Mainline loco but upsets the more modern Hornby types.

Firstly I'm very impressed and encouraged to try...

Secondly why is it leaking AC through to the track, is it intrinsic to the design or what? I'm mostly useless with electricity so please keep it simple! 

Thanks for the inspiration to try, in awe... 

Ralf