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The Fatadder

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  1. The Fatadder

    5512 p4 conversion

    By The Fatadder,

    As is usually the case, now that CIMA has restarted my modelling output has disappeared. Thankfully this is the last one, and in a months time it will all be over.
     
    This evenings plans to sit and watch the Arsenal, quickly lost their attraction after yet another dismal performance. So I figured dig out something to work on.
     
    My first thoughts were to finish off 3863, only to realise that I had forgotten to buy the washers needed to modify the con rods. This will now have to wait until I next send off a Gibson order, so its going to be a while (hopefully their wheels for the Dean Goods are pre drilled, else its going to be a long wait!)
     
    Rather than start soldering on either the Dean or Collett goods, I figured that I would try and get my Bachmann 4575 finished.
     
    As previously blogged, this is a conversion of the Bachmann model, with widened frames and Mitchell conrods / pony trucks.
     
    It had previously refused to run properly, so today I stripped it down completely removing all of the crank pins. each was then refitted, correcting the original poor alignment where necessary. Before gluing into position
     
    I then fitted the new rods, and on test running (with no motor fitted so it could free wheel), it now runs perfectly. The next step is to get the rod fitted between the cylinder and the centre axle.
     
    Typically one side has been accidently fitted with the wrong size crank pin so that will need rectifying, then I need to sort out the clearance issue between the crosshead and the lead axle. The first attempt will be recessing the nut, after which I am not sure. (beginning to wish that I had not rushed to remove the original rod which being much thinner would have been a lot easier.)
     
    Given this is the problem that is also holding up my mogul, I really need to get on top of it else its going to be a layout with a lot of 0-6-0s and not a lot else!
     

  2. The Fatadder
    One of the most important sources of traffic to Cheddar was Strawberries, So much so that there were a dedicated fleet of Siphons marked return to Yatton which were used on this traffic.
     
    Through a discussion with Chris F back at Scaleforum, he mentioned that a Siphon J was included in this fleet. Wanting something a bit different to the Lima and Airfix models that will make up the rest of the fleet, I have finally got hold of a Mallard Models kit
     
    First impressions were good, though a further inspection of the etch quality left a bit to be desired, some half etch was missing and other bits needed a lot of cleaning up. All to be expected on an old second hand kit.
     
    Assembly:
    I stated by folding up the components, the long folds on the sides were a bit tricky where the half etching was not complete. the chassis sub frame included 4 uprights for the trussing on which there was no half etch so these were removed to be replaced with L shaped brass
     
    The ends consist of 2 parts, an inner with a fold up bracket that aids alignment with the sides, and a detailed outer with the planking. The inner brackets were soldered in place, then the bracket adjusted to ensure alignment with the sides. I then soldered the first end onto the side, followed by the other end.
    In each case I used the block from a GW models wheel press along with an engineers square to ensure everything was kept square.
     
    With one side soldered to both ends, it was a choice to add the chassis or other side. I went with the latter as the sub chassis was not completely flat (as a result of issues bending non half etched bits 90 degrees) So the other side was soldered on, followed by the sub chassis
     
    This takes it to the condition of the below photo:

    While the soldering inside is crude (none of it can be seen on the finished model, I like lots of solder on a but joint like this.) the soldering on the outer corners of the ends is much tidier (it needs cleaning up still in the photo). This outer soldering was more as a filler than for strength.
     
    Still to do: There are lots of small parts to add, including the door hinges (32 of them), door locking bars, end steps, a complete scratch built set of underframe trusses, and the bogies (for which there are no instructions explaining where the numinous castings go.
    For the side/end details, the plan is to solder on as much as possible (though I suspect the hinges will be glued!)
    The vac formed plastic roof looks a pretty close shape, and will be added once the soldering is finished.
  3. The Fatadder

    High Level Chassis

    By The Fatadder,

    Over the past week I have been building a High Level kit for a 58xx chassis to use with 5813. Given the number of very good threads detailing the construction of these on here, I wont go into detail. Just a couple of photos.
     
    Construction broadly followed the instructions, the slight differences were adding the horn blocks to the sides using my Avonside jig before adding the spacers.
     
    I have also removed the springs to enable the removal of all axles (ive yet to decide on how I will keep them in place).
     
    Testing has so far been promising, I have noticed that one part was missing from the gearbox which allows the first idler to move on its shaft and disengage from the worm (this will be rectified today!) After which I will give it a proper test run up and down the test track, then get it going on the rolling road to run in the gearbox.



     
    The final jobs are to fit the remaining handrails to the body and to build the brakegear (ensuring of course that it is fully removable) I want to get both of these sorted tonight / tomorrow so that I can have the loco finished (well ready for painting) before I make a start on the next project.
     
    High Level have now released a horn block bearing for a 3mm diameter axle, as such as soon as my order arrives I will be able to build my High Level chassis for 2220. This is going to be my first attempt with CSBs... This will need some major modification to the Ultrascale wheels (reducing the boss thickness and removing the original gear) however it seems that the going rate for RTR conversion ultrascales on ebay is a significant saving on buying 1/8th parts new (this set was cheaper than a set of Gibsons!)
     
    However the temptation may well be to start on my Dean Goods, given that I will be picking up the Finney kit on Sunday. The intention with this is to take inspiration from Martin Blackwell's MRJ article on building 2 locos from one kit, and to build myself a pair of them (with the second getting a High Level chassis, and the first getting the Finney working valve gear If I can manage to get it working...) The first is going to be 2340 (given the photo of the loco on the branch in 1949 in one of the Cheddar books) For this one I want to ensure all the details are correct, so will need more research to start identifying footplate / firebox / cab type identification.
    The other is undecided (and will depend a lot on what is left). I'm not sure I even need two Dean Goods so it may well end up on Ebay (though I doubt I will want to part with it once finished). If it turns out to be suitable, I quite fancy doing the one they have at Steam given the number of photos I took of it when I was there the other week.....
     
    I think the sensible option is going to be the High Level kit, particularly as I need to use the 1/8 inch hornblocks to use the chassis jig when fitting the horn guides (logically I should then be able to replace with the identical 3mm component afterwards without any issue....)
  4. The Fatadder

    Loco Building

    By The Fatadder,

    Finally got my internet connection fixed,
     
    Lots of work over the past week, covering locos and wagons...
     
    First up 5813, Had another session with a few more detail bits fitting the smaller hand rails. The toolbox on the left hand side needed moving forward, so I cut off the moulding and then filled the gap with plasticard before scratch building a replacement. After which I gave it a quick coat of white primer. This highlighted a couple of issues, in that a lot of rivets are missing on the buffer beams from the removal of the auto working bits.
    I have drawn up a replacement etch which will hopefully be ran soon.
     
    The chassis for this has also finally arrived, The only thing now is to work out the CSB calculations for it......

     
    Next up 2220, not a lot done to this one, other than fitting a Gibson chimney. I have also replaced the top feed, the original turned brass part being saved for a future project and a replacement cast brass Gibson part used instead (given that this one is going to be green).
    Next up (if we get a dry day at the weekend) I will get it primed...
     

     
    Finally 3863
    The tender has been converted to P4, very easy to convert (but it looks like the centre axle needs to be sprung slightly as it is not always fully in contact with the rail.
     
    Moving onto the loco, the Gibson wheels have been blackened with the Carrs liquid (still not certain with the finish, and a lot more cleaning up needed to get them ready for use.) I now have the all important 3mm pins for my wheel press, so once I have the wheels cleaned up I can get it fitted...
    All the wheels are now fitted with Ultrascale balance weights, really good innovation those!
     
    I have also used the Ultrascale dummy frames, following the instructions from MRJ. So the loco chassis is now ready for wheels
     
    I have also removed the remains of the motion bracket, and will now be copying it into AutoCAD in order to make a replacement part on my etch...

  5. The Fatadder

    More wagon modelling

    By The Fatadder,

    A trip to the local model shop to pick up some more plasticweld has resulted in the purchase of even more wagon kits, coming home with a Cambrian LMS 1 plank, a Ratio iron mink and a Parkside LNER van.
     
    The Iron Mink was the first to be put together, using up my final set of w-irons. To save time I flipped the floor upside down (so I don't have to carve off all the raised bits),
    I then filed off the inside of the w-irons, leaving the axleboxes and springs. (thankfully the Ratio w-irons are very thin compared with Parkside, making this a lot easier). It now just needs to have the w-irons fitted, and I can crack on with the brake gear.

     
    Next up the LNER van (wooden underframe), This has one of Parksides better designs of underfames, with separate W irons. Making it much easier to fit new w-irons. The body goes together perfectly (as you would expect from Parkside), with the sides improved further by fitting separate details. If only we could have a Cambrian kits level of separate detail (separate solebar, axleboxes, no moulded detail etc) with the crisp perfect fit you get from parkside...

     
    Next up an LMS 1plank, This is another of the 'improved' Cambrian kits. As with the previous two I haven't bothered fitting new W irons as it appears to be satisfactory. I will need to do some testing soon to prove this to be the case...
    As with my experience of open Cambrian kits so far, it went together very well (and also had the predrilled brake gear!)

     
    I have also been using some left over Cambrian solebars to upgrade some old Bachmann wagons, the intention being adding separate brake gear and sprung w irons.
     
    So far a GW Conflat and a coal wagon have been done.


     
    Also a final photo with some of the current wip,
    A Cambrian LMS van, Parkside LNER 5 plank and a Coopercraft 4 plank
  6. The Fatadder
    Having debated buying a jig for some time now, I have finally taken the plunge and bought an Ultralite version of Avonside's Chassis2 jig
    Which I think with a couple of modifications (such as adding my own Tufnol plate), should serve my needs well at a fraction of the full jig's cost.
     
    As a quick test, I have taken my Mitchell 43xx chassis (purchased off ebay without wheels). Thankfully after setting the jig by the con rods, it sits perfectly (so I am hopeful that once I add the wheels this should prove for good running.)
     
    Now either need C&L to start selling Exactoscale (so I can get some 3mm ID hornblocks for my 2251) or else its going to be a wait until Christmas when I should be getting the chassis for the 58xx and pannier
     

     

    The second photo shows the start of my new work station, (saved from a skip). The intention is to add a 1.5 inch width shelf on the back (at the top hight), and a lower shelf half way up with holes for files, glue bottles etc.
    Once I buy the 4mm ply for baseboard construction, there aught to be ample left for this.
     
    Once finished it will let me work on models downstairs (and hence keep an eye on the dog at the same time.)
  7. The Fatadder
    Given the amount of work that needs to be done decorating the house before I get to start work on modifying the garage to get it prepared for the layout, thoughts have turned to an interim project to give me somewhere to run stock in the mean time.
     
    The size of Cheddar prevents it from being built inside, however I do have space for approximation a 12ft by 1ft6 layout along one wall in the forth bedroom.
     
    Conversation with Dave (DeeV) about his automated traversers, has got me thinking about a small end to end project with approximately an 6ft baseboard with a treverser at each end which is sized on the length of a 43xx and a B Set
     
    The idea being that I will be able to sit at the work bench and play trains, without having to keep moving away to operate the treverser.
     
    Sticking with the Cheddar Valley theme, I have been playing with a plan based on a slightly shortened Draycott, adding a second siding below the through line to add a bit more interest. (along with plans for a few more buildings, and potentially adding a signal box)
     
    One thing I would like to try is working point rodding, along with a first attempt at working semaphores.
     
    Feedback on the design is very welcomed
     
     

  8. The Fatadder
    A little more work this afternoon,
    Exams are now finished, so back to work tomorrow (and the long wait for the results in January!)
     
    Today's work has focused around the cab, the new floor was added from black 40 thou and then added a bulkhead on the back of the cab. It now just needs an appropriate back head adding (something else to add to the Gibson order.)

     
    I have also added the 10 thou firebox sides

     
     
    While I had the camera out, I also got this photo of what is currently going through the works

    Starting from the bottom:
    7723
    Collett goods - awaiting the etched parts finishing off, and a chassis build
    Mitchell 43xx, - the body only needs paint, the chassis is just waiting for a set of wheels
    58xx
    4575 I am still trying to get the chassis to work reliably, dodgy crank pins and slightly off quartering is the current issue (I will never touch gibsons that are not ready drilled again!)
    Finally an airfix large prarie, given to me by a friend at school (whos sister had trampled the chassis) The intention is to rebuild it and fit to a Comet chassis. Its something of a long term project, the intention to use it on an excursion rake.
  9. The Fatadder
    Moving on from my last post, I have now made a good start on 7723
     
    All the moulded on details have now been removed, along with all logos and numbers. The original handrails were also removed with the intention of replacing with scale handrail knobs and finer wire
     
    Starting with the cab, the roof has had the hatch removed carefully and been replaced with a small piece of 10 thou plasticard cut to size. I have removed the glazing from cab windows, (one popped out nicely the other had lots of glue and cracked in removal) I am thinking about trying to fit Shawplans laser Glaze, depending on how well my experiment fitting open windows works (using a couple of brass surrounds) either way this will of course be post painting.
     
    On the dome I have carefully filed back the 'nipple' to blend it into the profile of the top of the dome. I think I am nearly there with it now, certainly a big improvement over how it came.
     
    Sticking with the top of the tank, I havent done any more yet, but I am getting very close to removing the pipes running to the top feed and replacing with brass rod. It just doesnt look quite right in a n profile instead of being round
    I think looking back to my original photo the bonnet cover looks to be a different colour to the green of the tanks, so it looks like it needs a polished version. In which case I will chop off the moulding and replace with a brass casting.
     
    Moving below the tanks, I have now drilled out the centre of the brackets at the end of the firebox, along with cutting out the injectors from each side. While I was at it I also removed the lower few mm of the top feed pipe to replace with brass linked up to the Gibson injector castings (once they arrive)
     
    The firebox will now be made up from 10 thou plasticard (ensuring it doesnt get in the way of the new motor). I think it makes a big difference, adding another mm of depth under the tanks, along with bringing the injector slightly forward into its correct position. I am really looking forward to getting the castings so that I can see how it all fits together!
     
    The final job is to remove the pipework between the injector and the cab steps (which will be replaced at the same time as fitting the injectors), after which I will be removing the infill above the sandbox filler in the cab steps. Along with probably replacing the pipe that runs along the underside of the footplate
    Finally I need to add the sandbox linkage to the right hand side, rather than copy the left hand in brass rod, I am debating fabricating in flat sheet.

  10. The Fatadder
    Having reached the limit of work on 5813 (at least until I am able to get a small diameter drill so that I can get the handrails drilled and fitted) I have decided to crack on with another project, 7723 from a Mainline Pannier tank.
     
    This was decided by a single undated photo of a pannier in one of the Cheddar books which did not have a BR smokebox number plate, I will also be following a similar route on a second pannier (all be it working from the more recent Bachmann body). I'm undecided on the prototype yet (as yet to find another photo, but I quite fancy one of the later cab type with no topfeed)
     
     
    The model was picked up from Tim Easter who had started the detailing a very long time ago, adding sprung buffers, the linkage for the some of the wire handrails and making a start on the underside.
     
    My intention,
    Remove the rest of the fictional infill over the top of the middle driver. (I'd have ideally liked to do the same on the section either side of the fire box, to get full depth of detail on the pipework. But that is a step to far and would likely look worse than as it comes, that said, the more I look at it the more it bugs me........
     
    Another job I'd have liked to sort, but will be leaving is new pipe runs on the top of the tanks, heading to the top feed. While I think having a separate pipe would look a lot better, it crosses so many bits of detail I think there is just too much chance of damage
     
    Then its onto the easier bits, re-profiling the dome (or replacing it if that falls through)
     
    Add cab floor/ bulkhead / backhead along with any other easy to model cab interior bits
     
    High Level chassis
     
    As with other projects, given the summer setting (and research indicating that it was a particularly hot summer) I have also modified the roof to open the hatch, removed the 1mm of part closed shutters from the open part of the cab side, and I am thinking about having a crack at modelling the cab front windows open.
     
    As ever I am interested to hear if there is anything else worth changing on it.
  11. The Fatadder
    In an attempt to distract myself, having reached saturation point revising for next weeks Strategic Cima exams, I have spent a bit of time working on 5813 today.
     
    As discussed in my previous blog, I had completed work on the boiler adding the mainly trains detailing bits along with scratch building the missing lower boiler (probably the most noticeable modification)
     
    After finding some suitable etched doors in my scrap box, I have decided to model on door open and the other closed. It seems that a lot of 14xx photos (along with the few 58xx I have found) have the cab door open. looking at the sole photo I have found of 5813 on the Cheddar branch, it does look as though the door may be open...
     
    At any rate, this will give a better view as to the detailed cab interior.
     
    I decided to rectify another issue with the airfix model while I am at it, the gap between the cab door and the footplate. (moulded flush with the door)
     
    The next job was to add the cab floor,
    I started by adding the missing front bulkhead, adding the materiel surrounding the backhead (which will be added post painting). Once this was fitted I glued in the new floor. This was formed in 2 parts, a 40thou base (resting on 2 supports that were measured to get the high correct). On top of this is an overlay of 10thou which sticks out to form the cab steps.
     
    Once the floor was finished, I added the rear bulkhead, this was again formed of a couple of bits of 40thou. Detailed with a couple of etched seats, a plasticard coal hole cover, and the break leaver recessed in as per Castles photos in this thread
     
    It has also had the box shown in Castle's photos on the left hand side. (again made from laminated plasticard)
     
    This is all a bit of a guess, but will hopefully look close enough.
     
    The next jobs:
    There is still one pipe remaining on one side that should be removed for a 58xx. I'm a little concerned with this one, as there is so much rivet detail near to it that will make removal difficult...
     
    I also keep looking at the sandbox operating leavers on the front, thinking about replacing with brass strip. At the moment I am thinking against it, but I suspect given how long it is going to be until I can paint the loco I will attempt it at some point...
     
    Finally, the boiler washout plugs still need to be added. I have successfully replicated Buffalo's method, but the brass tube I have has walls which are too thick. it either takes a lot of fettling to thin them, (or more likely I wont get the rest made until I buy some thin walled tube!)
     
    Photos:




  12. The Fatadder
    Following on from yesterdays post on 5512, here is the missing photo
     
    It clearly shows where the quartering on the centre axle has shifted, and hopefully also shows the added finness from using the Mitchell components rather than the standard Bachmann parts.
     
    Last night I soldered up the final part of the driving rods (whatever they are supposed to be called) and removed the locating rod from the Bachmann sliders. it now needs a .6mm hole drilling through the sliders and the rods, although this is now waiting on either an Eiliens order or visiting a show so that I can buy more drill bits)
     
    Also the model is showing a bit of ghosting of the old Great Western logos showing through the paint, a coat of satin varnish will rectify this.
     
    To finish of the body for now, I will get a set of etched number plates ordered (along with number plates for the other 4 locos that are in the works, and my pair of Castles (Nunney and Berkeley) that are intended for the display case.
     
     
     

     
     
    edit: I should add the photo is taken on what will become my indoor test plank, a couple of short sidings and what will eventually have a few structures in the style of those on Cheddar, along with I hope some working point rodding again as a practice for Cheddar. While its only about 3ft by 2ft, it should give enough to give newly converted stock a good test run (and give something to play with when studying for my Strategic CIMA in November )
  13. The Fatadder
    Following on from my thread here requesting details of the class, Its about time I described the work completed so far on my Collett Goods.
     
    So far the majority of effort has been spent preparing the body shell, a quick overview:
    This model had already been fitted with sprung buffers, which were removed to be replaced in the new buffer beams.
    The pipe runs down the side were removed, unfortunately this took the rivets with it so these will be replaced later on.
    Removal of moulded hand rails, (on one side the cabside hand rail had already been done so this had the holes filled as I am modelling 2220, which was built in the war without cab windows or handrails (though the former were added post war)
    Removal of bonnet top cover and top feed, the original bonnet top cover was cut down to get a flush boiler top. The lower pipework was also removed so that it can be replaced in the correct position further out on the splasher.)
    All buffer beam detail removed ready for a new etched buffer beam with the buffers in the correct position.
    Filed down the boiler bands, and smoke box door brackets to get a thinner more prototypical thickness and to get the curved moulding to be more prototypically flat.
    Removal of raised cab side number plates
    Removal of other moulded on parts
    Paint stripping on cab sides

    So far I have fitted the new top feed, and the upper section of pipe, the brass bonnet cover will not be fitted until after painting.
     
     
     
    The new upper pipe cover was made from evergreen rod, while the exposed lower pipe will be brass (or ideally copper) rod one size smaller than the plastic. this will be fabricated to shape and have a square of brass fret soldered on as the joint between the two pipes. this multi meterial approach means that the upper section is easy to glue in place, while the lower section is the right colour and is easy to bend. Once dry (probably at my next revision break), 2 lengths of 10thou by 20thou will be fitted either side of the evergreen rod, with the lower gap between the rod and the strip filled to get the correct _n_ profile,
     
    Still to do:
    There is a massive amount of work still to do on this project including:
    High Level Chassis kit
    Fit 247 Developments boiler back
    Need to research what chimney type 2220 had, I suspect cast iron given there was a war on. I think the model currently has a copper caped version so this may need changing.
    New steps, the moulded ones are just two thick. So far havent found anything suitable so will probably add it to my etch.
    New cab, one potential improvement I am considering is to etch new cab sides, both to reduce the size width and to replace lost rivet detail. Its a bit of extra work on CAD but tbh wont really add to the cost and should make quite a difference. With the cab chopped up adding interior detail will also be much easier.
    Tender - Still undecided on this, I really don't like the Bachmann moulding. Given that so much rivet detail is lost under the moulded on lamp irons. Having now identified that my prototype photos have a Collett 3000 gallon tender, and researched the etched options available I haven't managed to find anything suitable. So unless Bachmann improved the tender when they did the updated release (I havent found a clear photo yet but it appears to be the same) I'm a little stuck. One option I am considering is to etch the lower rivet line for retrofit and using transfers to replace the other missing rivets. Sounds a very time consuming option, particularly as I require 2 of these locos for the layout. Will keep looking and see if I can identify a Bristol allocated 22xx that has a 3500 gallon tender for the second loco I think...
    Edit: One extra task that has now been added is to replace the flat bar that goes from the cab to the chassis with brass. The original has been carefully removed, the plan being to fabricate the replacement from two strips of brass with a boss between them as per the prototype. the inner section will be soldered to the chassis frame. I have also been looking at the other linkage above the footplate, the wire that was originally on the model has been removed, and I will include a replacement with the correct rectangular profile/rivet detail on my etch sheet.
    Again if anyone can think of any other areas that the Mainline model needs to be improved please let me know, With this project (and the 57xx Pannier that will be following it in the new year) It is my intention to bring the models up to match the standard of the latest RTR / kits.

     
     
     
     
    A couple of photos:
    The planed etch for the buffer beams

     
    The model so far

     
    Edit: Another photo showing the completed work on the pipe cover and the lower boiler fitted

  14. The Fatadder
    Further progress with the ongoing wagon construction, the first 3 wagons are now working models, with the sprung w irons all fitted and tested.
    The ratio 5 plank is riding slightly high relative to the two coopercraft models, which is handy as it is being modelled empty whereas the other two will be fully loaded (to hide the inaccurate floor)
     
    I've also dug out a second Ratio kit that was built up earlier in the year to the basic shell stage, which will now get w irons fitted followed by the break shoes.
     
    Having finally got a copy of Geoff Kent's 4mm wagon pt1, there are lots of photos of suitable prototype wagons to model using the ratio kit. Including very long lived examples with the pre war large G W logo. (I am quite glad to see a fair few survivors of each of the big 4 wagons in early liveries to break up the monotony of the post war liveries
     
     
    Unfortunatly its not all been good progress, the Coopercraft 4 plank has been a nightmare, there was a slight issue with the modified chassis, resulting in the w irons not fitting square. Its now been broken down and will be my first candidate for a full etched chassis. I have also dug out a Ratio GW van, which was originally built with a solid chassis which I now wanted to spring. Unfortunately the solbars had other ideas and split during the attempted modifications, so this will also need a full etched chassis...
    Just need to find a suitable etch now, I am very interested to see how it compares with the current method of thinning solbars to accept the Bill Bedford units.
     
    Having moved house last weekend, this weekend I set up the new modelling workshop (ie bedroom four), taking the opertunity to pack up a few more projects to take back to Chester to work on in the week once the wagons are done.
    This includes my second pair of E116 B Sets and a Bachmann tank wagon for which I am planning to open up the chassis webbing to model a National Benzole tank shown in the 4mm wagon pt 2 (pre war livery with red solebar)
     
    Seeing that Shawplan have now released laserglaze for the E145 B Set, including a special piece for blanking the extra window) I am planning to buy 4 sets next week post payday and hopefully crack on with getting some coaches finished!
     
    One plus with the new room is that I have found space for a small shunting plank/test track on top of a shelf unit. It will work out something like 700mm by 500mm (off the top of my head), with a cassette fiddleyard extending down the back of the workbench. It will have a single 3 way point, short head shunt and sidings. The idea being to test wagons/ locos through pointwork, and be something of a desk toy. I also want to use it as a test bed for scratch building points, and for the point rodding, along with period ballasting (as a test bed for Cheddar)
    Just need to finish the house first before I will find time to start...
  15. The Fatadder
    A chance purchase off ebay of a built Mitchell 43xx kit has arrived this morning.
     
    Took a bit of a risk on this as I had only viewed the photos in small size on my phone due to a lack of internet, thankfully it looks in pretty good condition.
    A little damage in posting (break gear, buffer beam), and a few missing parts (no buffers for a start)
     
     
    The biggest problem appears to be the firebox, which appears slightly higher on one side than the other. short of stripping it down and re fabricating, not sure what else I will be able to do here. Thankfully from most angles its not noticeable so I may well just leave alone.
     
    The bufferbeam has a slight dent in the middle on the front, which should be able to be pressed out. similarly there was a slight dent in the top fairing of the tender (again postal damage) which was quickly rectified.
     
    Chassis wise a quick first check and it looks square, just needs a bit of solder cleaning up that has got a bit close to the hornblocks. The front pony truck has completely ceased however, and needs to be completely stripped down and rebuilt.
     
    Wheels were not included (though there is a set of ultrascale bogie wheels in the pony truck), I will be ordering a set of Gibsons for the drivers / tender asap. Along with a high level gearbox and motor. Looking forward to getting it moving.
     
    Finally I want to give it a new top coat of GWR green, though that wont be until the summer once the move is over and I have my compressor / airbrush up in Newtown.
     
    The big question is which number to model as.
    It appears to be built as a later build loco (does not have the long splasher on the right hand side),
    Its planned to be principally used on the 7.53am Trowbridge - Bristol working, I'm not sure which shed this would have worked off. Bristol or Westbury? Would certainly welcome some advice.
     
    Some photos



  16. The Fatadder
    The next project for tonight was a start on the first wagon for my cattle rake, following Martin Goodall's articles from MRJ as a guide and using a combination of Coopercraft and Airfix kits.
     
    The plan is for a 6 wagon rake comprised of:
    1 W3 with rebuilt doors (shortened Airfix)
    1 W8 Airfix
    1 12 Airfix
    2 W5 (one with rebuilt doors one with standard) Coopercraft
    1 W1 (coopercraft)
     
    To start with I am going with the W12, followed by the W3
     
    The ends will need to be modified to get the correct pitch on the roof, this will be changed using microstrip and a big file following the Goodall drawing
     
    The chassis follows the usual method, removing the ribs from the floor then slimming down the solebars.
     
    The sides have had the huge hinges from the working doors removed, along with the bar (which will be replaced with wire). The slots in the side were drilled out, my feeling is that I have used too big a diameter of drill and they are now too big a hole. Hopefully painting should reduce this width a tad, but I am thinking about stopping now until I get a smaller drill bit.
     
    As well as drilling out the Airfix slots, I have added the additional third slot drilling along the plank line (this is slightly incorrect as the centre point of the slot is fractionally too low), but it give the affect thats needed.
     
    This all takes an awful lot of time on the preparation of the parts, drilling and tidying up the slots. And will require a lot more to fix all the little bits of damage from removing the hinges etc.

  17. The Fatadder
    A start on the first common user wagon for the layout, a Ratio kit for a 1930s GWR 5 plank.
     
    I am building this with Bill Bedford sprung wirons, as such some modification was needed on the chassis. This followed the process used on my Parkside Fruit D, cutting off the w irons then thinning down the chassis solebars next to where the etch will sit. The floor supports were then cut off to provide clearance for the w iron (learning from the Fruit D in that this time the 3mm length next to the solebar was kept to help support the headstock.
     
    The rest of the build so far followed the instructions, gluing sides to the floor etc.
     
    The next step is waiting for some sprung w irons from Eileen's, then I will finish off the break gear.
     
    Should have at least one more of these kits in the post somewhere.


     
    I am now going to have to go back to my previously built ventilated van and perform the same chassis modifications...

     
    I also dug out a couple more private owner coal wagons, once I have a few more of these the aim is to make a start on weathering the hell out of them as per Craig's MRJ article (which I really aught to try and get a copy of...)

     
    On friday I will be heading to the sorting office to pick up the rest of this weeks shopping, a big order of Cooper Craft and Parkside kits, along with 3 Airfix cattle wagons from ebay. The latter are a slightly more longer term project with the sorting of the roof profile needed...
  18. The Fatadder
    Next up on the todo list, a batch of Coopercraft wagon kits.
    This covers a pair of diagram O4 5 planks, a diagram O5 4 plank, and an O2 7 plank along with another Ratio O29 5 plank
     
    The body of the coopercraft wagons goes together very nicely, and are very well moulded crisp components with no flash. However I am confused by the design of the floor which appears to sit far too high.
     
    The sole bars caused big issues, in that once thinned down to take sprung replacement w irons there was still insufficient clearance to fit the part when fitted in what I assume is the correct position up against the inner ribs on the floor. In stead I glued them so that the outer edge was up against the side which (just) gives clearance.
    The w irons will need further modification to remove part of the etch to clear the central ballast weight (which has been filled with lead)
     
    I am now at a stage with the first body built and the chassis ready for W irons, the mounded w irons look very different to the version I have (Bill Bedford 1907 RCH). Which version do I require?
     
    (I will add some photos once I can take some in daylight, as after last nights efforts I dont think they would add much!)
  19. The Fatadder

    Thornycroft PB

    By The Fatadder,

    While searching in a stock box at the weekend trying to find a couple more old private owner wagons I came across a Peco kit for a 1926 Thornycroft PB GW covered lorry.
     
    Now even with any restrictions on replacing during the war, clearly a 20 year life is not going to happen in GW service. As such I've been thinking about an alternative use.
    After thinking about which sort of operators typically use old life expired equipment, and narrowed it down to either farm use or a coal merchant, the latter looks like it will work well.
     
    The kit has been built following the instructions, leaving off the cover. Once painted (which will be a heavily weathered EWS red) it will get a load of coal bags adding ready to leave the yard.
     
    The driver has been modified, cutting one arm off at the elbow, then removing a 45 degree angle before regluing into position. the aim is to have the driver sat leaning against the lorry having a quick smoke before he needs to drive out on his deliveries.

  20. The Fatadder
    While I am yet to find a photo in GW days, a lot has been written mentioning 43xx Mogals working on the Cheddar branch.
    My original plan was to go for the Mitchell kit, however until I am more accomplished at fabricating more complicated shapes (such as those on the tapered boiler and the firebox)
     
    As such, (and given that I have a mainline body) I've made a start on trying to improve it.
     
    The first question (that is still unanswered) is going to be which loco to model.
    I'd have liked to have done one of the later version with the Collett goods style cab, but while Russell implies that not all of these were fitted with the heavy weight buffer beam (and Red route availability), I would rather have something more typical.
    Which takes me back to the model as built.
     
    Comparing the model with the Russell (figure 266, page 106), the key dimensions appear pretty close. First thoughts was that there is not enough of a curve on the firebox, (this was an easy job to rectify with a file and some wet&dry)
     
    The missing underside of the boiler was the next area to see attention, a bit of a risky job given I realise I could be causing later issues with the chassis). I have carefully chopped the boiler off the firebox / running plate. the aim is then to add a new lower section, either from plasticard and filing to shape, or to buy a suitable diameter of plastic tube.
  21. The Fatadder

    GWR Toad pt1

    By The Fatadder,

    Going to need to model a couple of break vans for Cheddar, a topic on which I havent much research yet.
     
    To start with I have an old Bachmann 20t model
     
    The first thing to go were the moulded on hand rails, a pig of a job carefully carving with a new scalple then finishing off with a square ended blade. At the same time I removed the moulded on lamp irons, and the break shoes.
     
    The planed work:
    New sprung W Irons (just need to confirm which type)
    New hand rails, still debating which method to use, draw it up as a flat etch (and hence avoid the issue of fabricating the shape) or to solder up from brass wire. Either way the distinctive mounting brackets will be included on my next etch
    New break gear
    New lamp irons,
    New chimney (from brass tube)
    Shawplan glazing
    A few other details on the end
    I am debating about modelling the door open and including more internal detail. Its my assumption at on a hot summer's day, the guard will be wanting to try and get it as cool as possible in the van, so the window hatch and door would be open.

    Going to try and work out which other break van diagrams can be used on Cheddar. Hopefully I can justify a few more different versions....
  22. The Fatadder

    5512 Part 4

    By The Fatadder,

    While I still havent got round to placing my Gibson order for the crank pins, I have made a little more progress
     
    A couple of weeks back I found a couple of perfect components for this project from Ebay, This comprised a set of Mitchell designed conrods and balance weights from the Churchward Models kit, a set of nickel silver components (including conrods and pony trucks) from a Mitchell 44xx kit, and finally a set of Perserverance pony trucks from a 45xx.
     
    So, the balance weights are now fully fitted (to both 5512 and 4573) Much easier than my original thoughts of fabricating from plasticard!
     
    The con rods are also a huge improvement over the overscale originals, and also avoid the need to have to solder extra washers to make them fit. These are now soldered up ready for fitting once I get the crank pins.
     
    Finally the pony trucks. These are a bit of an odd design with the tab much smaller than the slot (I also cant understand why not just etch it as a fold up unit, this extra work for the sake of saving 10p's worth of metal seems a bit silly). Anyway, they have now been soldered up, fitted with 2mm ID bearings and are ready for paint. They differ slightly to the Churchward 45xx part in having the pivot mounted slightly lower. This point is of particular importance as while the etched parts pivot mount is on the top, the Bachmann part is mounted from the bottom.
    The plastic mount Bachmann use was removed when I rebuilt the chassis block, this means that the pivot can be mounted direct to the metal block, which conveniently mounts the new etched part in exactly the right position.
    The only problem is that I now need to work out how exactly I am going to attach them, I will try screwing into the block. If this doesnt work, I suspect the alternative is having a bolt through the whole chassis block.
     
    Will have a look further over the weekend, (when I also plan to get the chassis painted black).
     
    One other modification I am going to make over the weekend is to the cylinders, The Mitchell etch includes all of the cylinder parts, so I plan to use the outer bits to add the missing sections on the Bachmann cylinder.
    Then its back to either design work on 2220 or soldering on 4573
     
     

    Bachmann behind, Mitchell in front. Wheels are only fitted to one side as it needs to be painted prior to fitting on the other wheel.
  23. The Fatadder

    5512 part 3

    By The Fatadder,

    Only a little more progress today (and unfortunately its too dark to take photos tonight but I will try and get some done tomorrow)
     
    First up the pony truck mounts,
    This morning before I headed to a revision course I glued the two Bachmann mounts into position on the chassis. Once I got back this evening I then fitted on the two Bachmann pony trucks, which after testing have held up nicely.
     
    The only problem is that I really dont want to use the Bachmann part (given it is far too narrow).
    Unfortunately Comet's component is not available separately from their chassis, and the same is true for the alternative etched options.
     
    This leaves two options, hacking apart the Bachmann plastic and making it wider, or alternatively using a similar available Comet part (LS2) that would need shortening and other modifications.
     
    Still need to work out how to reattach the sand boxes, just trying to work out their exact position.
     
    Then its back to waiting for crank pins............
  24. The Fatadder
    Another day and a bit more progress,
     
    The new frames have now been tidied up to match the metal frame, then checked to ensure that the body fits on correctly. In doing so I have noticed another issue with the body retaining screws being directly behind the buffer beam (and as such will probably have to be removed to fit screw links...)
     
    I have now almost finished the underside modifications, the Bachmann keeper plate has had the break gear / springs chopped off and sanded back to get a flush back and a 1mm overall width.
    A plasticard keeper plate has been fabricated (2 parts of 40thou, the lower part with larger holes to match the raised boss on the casting).
    The Bachmann gear cover was chopped off the original keeper plate and glued in place on the new plate (with a new plasticard side to replace the side that was originally covered by the spring details. This is now drying before I will glue the thinned down spring detail to the sides of the keeper plate.
     
    Once everything is glued on, it screws to the model using the original Bachmann screws.
    At some point I will be gluing pickups onto the top of the new keeper plate. If I was doing this again I would probably make the top layer of the plate out of pcb to make wiring pickups easier
     
    One area that has been an issue is the mounts for the pony trucks, the glue isnt getting a good bond between the greasy hard plastic and the metal chassis block. I think drilling through the whole chassis block and bolting might be a good solution, though I think it best to wait and see if I manage to source a new pony truck first...
     
    Photos:
     

    The starting point, Bachmann chassis with P4 trailing/leading wheels and one driving axle fitted
     

    Slimmed down springs/break gear
     

    Body fitted to widened chassis
     

    The underside showing the incomplete keeper plate, the step between the keeper plate and the outer frame is where the springs will be glued.
     

    The finished keeper plate sans springs/breaks
     

    The new frames from below.
  25. The Fatadder
    While I try and get my head around how to set up the compensation in my etched kit for 4573, I have got on with a little bit of work on my other 45xx, which will be finished as 5512 in post war GWR livery.
     
    Why 5512? It was chosen due to the number of photos in the 1947/48 period that are published in the Cheddar books, including two photos showing it with LMS coaches (a rake that will be modelled at some point).
     
    As for the model,
    The starting point is a Bachmann angled tank model in Great Western livery, so far I have removed the Great Western branding from one side which will be replaced with the G W R letters. While I was at it I also removed the slightly oversized number plate ready for a replacement etch. At the moment I am planning to keep the other side with the full Great Western branding, given that all stock will only face the public on one side, and that there are minimal differences in the track pre and post war, I am thinking that I will keep one side of each loco suitable for running in the 30s.
     
    The majority of the work required focuses on the chassis. I have a full set of Gibson wheels on 3mm axles awaiting crankpins (which annoyingly also need to be drilled out), Must get on and order a set of 3mm pins for my GW models wheel press as well...
     
    The chassis frames are way too narrow, working from the dimensions of my Churchward kit I calculated the correct width of the frames. 2mm Plasticard has been cut to fit and glued on as an overlay in two sections. The first goes from the bunker end to the cylinders, with a rectangular cut out to match the lug for the sandbox. For the front section I filed the metal frame back to the correct angle allowing the same 2mm plasticard to be stuck on that was used for the main frame resulting in a correct angled front
    Once the glue is dry, I will be filing back the remaining plasticard to get a perfect match with the frames.
     
    The lower keeper plate is the next task that will be tackled in a revision break sometime this week. The screw mounts for the front and rear pony trucks have been carefully removed from the keeper plate, these will be either glued or bolted into position.
    The remaining keeper plate will be cut in two, with a plasticard spacer added (probably on the inside either side of the driven axle). This will space the breakgear and springs out to the correct position.
     
    Other work,
    The con rods need to be fitted with gibson washers to reduce the size of the holes to match the new crank pins
    I would also ideally like to get rid of the Bachmann pony trucks, fingers crossed the Comet part will be available individually from their chassis kit.
     
    Once I get on and order the remaining Gibson bits, it shouldnt take much longer until I get it running.
     
    Will try and add a couple of photos of the work tomorrow...
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