Jump to content
 

The Fatadder

RMweb Gold
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,332

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Blog Entries posted by The Fatadder

  1. The Fatadder

    Cargowaggon complete

    By The Fatadder,

    The final job on the Cargowaggon twin set was to add the transfers, these came from Railtec and are to their usual high standard (although there were some issues).
    I can’t tell if you are supposed to buy 2 packs to do one twin or if mine was missing a sheet, br there are not enough of some parts to do the pair (it is short by 4 of each door warning message, plus the OHLE flashes for the ends only had the left hand flash not the right hand)
     
    My soloution was to model 2 different wagons, one side with the early text warning and the other with the newer picture warning that was added in 1998. A different number was used on each side, and while I couldn’t find prototype images for the specific numbers included I based the two sides on a mix of prototype images
     
    It needs to be fitted with screw couplings, small details (hand break wheel, ferry lashing eyes etc) and will eventually need some very heavy weathering
     

  2. The Fatadder
    After another long painting session last night I have now finished the painting on my Centenary rake, the H33 and H26 resturants, and the A20 First (although on the latter I was not paying attention to what I was doing and forgot to paint one end!)

    The majority still need underframe weathering and they all need lining and numbers etc, but the project is certainly on the home stretch now. One aim to achieve over the winter is to get these coaches complete (with couplings fitted) to enable them to be transferred onto the layout.

    With Wheal Imogen my 1990s layout, needing to be complete for its exhibition debut in February, 2019 should see a lot more progress on Brent
  3. The Fatadder
    Things are not going completely to plan on the buffet conversion, I had filled the windows and started sanding back, however the finish was nowhere near good enough. While not immediately visible, after filing back the filler there was a slight indent around the filled windows (I expect paint would make it stand out a lot more!) The windows are set just under ten thou back from the sides (slightly less than ten thou at the top and slightly more at the bottom). This deviation sunk my original plan adding a piece of 10thou plasticard on top of the window, reducing the amount of filler.
     
    My first attempt was to sacrifice the red, white and yellow lines and apply the sanding stick to a wider area in order to try and blend in the filler. I then noticed that there was a little give in the glue holding the glazing in place, and still the filler over the window was fractionally lower than the surrounding plastic. At this point I went for drastic action, ripping out the windows and cutting a strip of 40 thou plasticard to the approximate height of the hole. With a square file I then removed the round corners to get 3 rectangular openings, and started to prepare the plasticard to be a tight fit in the holes.
     
    So far I have only found time to do the toilet window, however assuming that I manage to get home at a reasonable hour tonight I intend to get the two larger window blanks fitted and apply the first coat of filler. Fingers crossed this will get the desired effect!
     
    I have also made a start on the interior, although so far all I have managed is to chop out the redundant seating units. Working from a series of photos I will knock up an approximation of the buffet area ready to install. I should also get round to fixing the excess plastic on the chassis before installing the buffet unit in order that it doesn’t get damaged during handling.
  4. The Fatadder

    Coach painting

    By The Fatadder,

    After a lot of time messing about with 1990s TPO stock last night, I also found time to do a little more work on my 1947 coach projects
     
    While there is still a lot of work to do to get these ready to enter service, the most pressing task is to finish the painting. This covers a number of areas: the black ends (tonight’s job), dirty underframes, the window frames and touch up work on the cream paint to fix where brown paint seeped under the masking. This last point was the focus last night.
     
    Having received an order of paints from Amazon, I have some new colours to try out for GWR cream. This was formed from a base of something like 3 drops of Vallejo light sand and one drop of warm yellow (aiming to get a good match with Phoenix GWR cream). Once I got a colour that I was happy with I used a fine brush to touch up the damaged areas, along with a small piece of wrap around on the ends that needed to be cream. The area towards the ends of the sides lacked a deep finish in a couple of places, so here I repainted the whole panel.
     
    8 coaches later and they are all now ready for lining, of course I haven’t nearly enough HMRS lining available so this is going to be a very slow process (initially only one side will be lined on each coach) It is my intention to buy a bow pen and learn how to use it to reduce the cost of this process whilst hopefully increasing the quality.
     
    Tonight I am to make a start on window frames and ends, before returning to the chassis next week (at which point I really ought to knock up some couplings for them…)
  5. The Fatadder
    Thanks to a lazy postman not bothering to leave a card saying my parcel had been left in the children’s playhouse, I didn’t realise that my latest ebay purchase had been delivered on Friday. This in turn has restricted how far I could get on this project over the weekend. The aim, conversion of a Bachmann Mk1 TPO NSX into a refurbished NSA.<p>This will encompass:
    Conversion of the chassis to air breaks (and the associated removal of the vac break parts) Remove the end steps Repaint the ends black (there is circa 2mm of wraparound of the red on the ends.) Remove Bachmann glazing on the corridor side (whist keeping the body retention clips) Replace large windows with the small secure type Replace doors with secure type Find a red paint which matches the Bachmann shade in order that the new windows can be painted without fully repainting the side. I have the Phoenix shade, and a close match from Vallejo is on its way.


     
    On to the work…The first step was dismantling the model, first up the bogies were removed to uncover two small screws which hold the body to chassis. Before removal, I drew around the body location clips in order to assist refitting. Glazing could then be prized out with a scalpel followed by the removal of the roof (which unclips). Other than saving a few pence of masking tape, the main reason for the removal of the roof was that it gave better access to the upper half of the window frame. The roof removal consisted of removing the toilet filler pipes, then undoing several clips along the length (one of which was glued solid.)
     
    With the model in pieces, the first job was replacing the body retention clips, so after chopping off the rest of the glazing they were glued into place with Limonene. Next up was the ends, carefully carving off the surplus steps with a curved scalpel blade (I think it is a no10a) before cleaning up with emery paper. As an aside I find these blades really useful for carving off detail, but the blade extends too far back so I am forever cutting my fingers, a useful solution is to cover the rear half inch or so with masking tape.

     
    Next up were the doors, the plan here is to fabricate a new rectangular section containing the new window, this will be fitted, a skim of filler applied, then painted. The main reason is that it keeps Bachmann’s printing on the stripes, and avoids damage to the handrails (I dread adding these to my NUA / NTA builds!)


     
    The final area for preparation was the window frames, again carefully carving off with the curved blade. The remains were then sanded smooth with my usual Sofitel emery board. The left hand windows are a little trickier in that the white printing for the Royal Mail logo goes very close to the window, there is no option here other than damaging the paint (so it will either need a new transfer or a touch up with white paint).

     
    With this done, the next step (tonight) will be working on adding the window blanks & preparing the new windows. I also need to do some CAD work in order to draw up a new window frame… I have still to decide if I will remove the dividing bars in order to fit one long replacement window strip, or fill each existing window separately…
     
    I have however managed to find a decent drawing showing the revised window locations, so thanks to the Barrowmore MRG for sharing the drawing. This will be a huge help in getting the new windows into the right place.
  6. The Fatadder
    Last night I finally made a start on a job that has been awaiting attention for far too long, painting the roofs of coaches.
     
    At last count I currently have 7 Centenaries, a H26, a H33, a Large Window first, 5 Mainline sunshine stock and 8 Hornby Colletts that all need the roofs painting grey. The centenaries etc. painted earlier in the summer being the most pressing (which also need the ends painting black and lining / windows added.)
     
    So I have started with the roofs, it has taken me a while to standardise on a paint for use on the roofs, but I think I am finally there. Vallejo Black Grey (the same colour that is the main basis of my weathering mix for smokebox doors, diesel loco roof grey and GWR wagon grey.)
     
    So far I have painted up both the H26 and H33 diners (both of which being the key stock to enable me to run some realistic formations), with the centenaries next up.
     
    I am quite pleased with the resulting colour, while the little bit of texture that is added through the paint looks (in my mind) to be a good start point for weathering. I don’t want a roof to be a consistent colour the whole way along… I have ordered a pot of Vallejo black to use on the ends, so will see if that gives as good a brush finish and avoid having to wait to spray them (given all the detail on the ends a spray can black would probably need touching up anyway.)
     
    I was particularly impressed with the coverage of the Vallejo paint, at least equal to that of enamels if not better, I just wish someone would commission a range of railway colours from them! Still, I have some good matches to try and will have a go spraying them in the new year…
  7. The Fatadder
    I didn’t get nearly as much done as I hoped this evening, however have at least made progress on a couple of long term projects blocking space on the work bench.
     

    First up 47768, it has got to the point that I can’t axxwpt the depot plaques on the cab sides that were removed in 96. So I have removed the etch, sanded down the cab side and repainted. I used Virgin red which was a pretty good match to Vi Trains RES red (and will be perfect once blended in with weathering)
    I understand they were often used on day time clay workings making use of the locos that were awaiting a turn on the evenings tpo/ parcels trains.
     

     
    I have also got on with the new ends for 37612 which will be in 1998 condition DRS, it has had the multi working recess cut out, extra workers etc added to the end and a coat of red paint on the bufferbeam. I still can’t find a pair of doors for this loco so it’s likley it will only be finished on one side.
     

    . Still needs the filler tidying up from the looks of things
     
    Once the other end is modified (tomorrow maybe) the loco canned fitted with the remaining transfers, varnished, and put away until I make my Sharpness Docks inspired layout one day.
    Will sort a photo in the morning
     
    Other than these I also have the Loadhaul shark awaiting paint (hopefully in the next week now the masking tape has arrived), some urchins also awaiting paint, and a GWR cattle van that needs numbering.
    Clear these up and it’s back to track building...
    ]
  8. The Fatadder

    A flush sided shark

    By The Fatadder,

    Another old project that I am trying to finish off (in between lettering GWR wagons) is a Hornby shark in Loadhaul livery. If I remember rightly the prototype Hornby released should have flush sides (else another Loadhaul liveries Shark has flush sides)
     
    The sides were smoothed off with filler and it is now in the process of getting the paint finished off, just needing the orange masking up so I can spray the black once it warms up again.
     
    However as I can’t get P4 wheels into the W irons, they have been removed pending the install of an etch
  9. The Fatadder
    http://www.railfaneurope.net/pix/gb/car/Mk2/MK2-RFB/1211-10.jpghttp://www.railfaneurope.net/pix/gb/car/Mk2/MK2-RFB/1211-10.jpgAs an interlude to the work on my mk2F RFB, a little background on the formation in which it will sit.
     
    The standard Virgin XC formation in the late 90s consisted of a BSO, 5 TSO and an RFB, however it was also very common to run a 6 coach set consisting of a BSO, 4 TSO and an RFB and it is one of these that I will be modelling.
     

    To save money I will be using the Hornby mk2E as a basis, with a mixed rake of Virgin and Intercity coaches so common in the early days of Virgin XC. The coaches are all modified to correct the underframes, detail the interiors and fit Kaydees in the bufferbeams / screw couplings on the ends. This does impose one limitation in that I can only run the BSO / RFB the correct way round (while in practice they often ran the wrong way round.) Eventually (if I see one at a good price) I will add another Virgin mk2 to up it to the full 7 coaches.
     
    For the time being it will remain in OO given it doesn't fit on Wheal Imogen (and will allow me to play 1998 on Brent from time to time...)
     
    On to the formation
     
    While it is rather atypical being formed purely from Mk2E coaches (other than the Mk2F RFB of course), I have found some evidence of pure MK2E coaches.) All be it not exactly matching the livery mix I have gone with.



    My understanding is that the Mk2E TSO are in the number range 5744>5804 and 5809>5907

     
    Loco (47817 in Virgin or 47706 in Fraggonset, although there are 3 others that are on my planned list including D9000, a redstripe 56 and a RF grey 47)



    BSO - MK2E - 9506 Intercity



    TSO - Mk2E - Virgin




    TSO - Mk2E - Virgin





    TSO - Mk2E - 5773 Intercity







    TSO - Mk2E - Virgin




    RFB - Mk2F - 1211 Intercity http://www.railfaneurope.net/pix/gb/car/Mk2/MK2-RFB/1211-10.jpg
     
    I need to dig out my 1998 Platform 9 and confirm suitable numbers for the 3 Virgin coaches. The Intercity coaches are matched from this list http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/44060-virgin-cross-country-mk2-formations/&do=findComment&comment=478649 which lists some example formations (and more importantly confirms coaches still in Intercity in 2000)
  10. The Fatadder
    Yesterday while visiting the East Somerset Railway, I picked up a Parkside kit for a W7 diagram prize cattle van. Its been a fun build, all be it not Parkside's finest work. The floor is rather below what you would expect (with no location marks for the gas tank or breaks) and lots of parts for the break gear are missing.
     
    I have worked from a prototype photo from 1947 in which the groom's compartment has been replaced (so instead of the 1907 panneling it has flat doors), so I have modified the parts accordingly. It is now out in the garage ready for a coat of GWR brown when I do my next batch of spraying...
     
    I have not glued the roof on yet, both for ease of painting and more importantly to enable glazing after painting.

    Eventually I need to confirm were horse boxes and cattle vans loaded in the cattle docks, on the platform, or on the raised platform in the goods yard. My suspicion is the other (where the van and a hosebox are posed below. Eventually I will need to add a tweed clad peer, his pig man and a very large pig awaiting collection...…

     
    I have also been doing some spraying,
    First up the ex LNWR diagram 138 composite has now been primed, I picked up a tin of Phoenix LMS coach paint back at Scaleforum (and there is no masking) so I am ready to go. If (and its a big if) the weather is ok tomorrow, I will try and get it painted in the afternoon once my parents have picked up the girls for half term.
     
    Next the first of my Toplights, again this has been primed as I had hoped I would be able to spray the cream.
     
    Speaking of cream, I have completed some testing on the Centenary break third, after applying masking to the chocolate and leaving for the whole time I was in the garage, I managed to remove it without damage. So I sanded back the damaged paint area and gave it a coat of primer. Unfortunately I have now ran out of decent masking tape so no more complex painting until a new batch arrives. Next time I will order a couple of rolls!

     
    Finally something a little different, I cobbled together this fictional loco a long time ago using some Triang Blue Pullman ends (left over from adding replacement ends to my BP) fitted to a modified Class 31 shell with a pair of Class 56 roof grills. It has been given a coat of GWR green, it has a Bachmann 37 chassis with D600 bogie frames (which may eventually get recommissioned into a 37). In the mean time it will get some GWR branding as if the GWRs gas turbine experiments had born more fruit.

  11. The Fatadder

    Mk2F RFP paint

    By The Fatadder,

    Today I took advantage of the warm weather to do the majority of the painting on the Mk22 RFB, first priming the buffet area and then spraying the grey.
     
    Typically I have now ran out of masking tape so I can’t do the rest. I might just use a set of fox transfers to add the red stripe and touch up the yellow stripe
     
    My attention to detail is awful at the moment, (in everything not just modelling), I missed adding masking tape to cover the lower coach side
     

     
    Fortunately it was easy to wipe clean with some thinners
     


     
    I also did a bit of painting into Merlin, with a second mk3 sleeper and a mk3 TGS both needing the buff adding
     

     
    Unfortunately that lack of attention to detail came back to bite me,
     

     
    Yes, I forgot to mask one side of the TGS!
     
    Now I will need to respray the white over the top of the dark green!
  12. The Fatadder
    Onto the home stretch....
     
    The revised approach for the window blanks was a lot more effective, once covered with filler to blend in the corners it is now almost seamless. After the first filler application it looked as below

    After which it was given a quick dusting of primer over the dark grey band in order to check on the progress, after which It needed a little more filler but is now pretty much ready for painting. If the weather is warm enough on Monday I will dig out the airbrush, if not it will need to wait until Halfords do another of their 3 for 2 offers on car paints.
     
    One final job on the coach body was to add the hand rail along the windows in front of the buffet counter, this was added from unpainted 0.8mm brass rod (it was left unpainted as through the tinted windows it looks pretty close to the yellow painted prototype.
     
    Attention now moved on to the chassis,
    As previously mentioned I have already fixed the fictional solbar, so the final job on the under side was to add replacement couplings. For this I have added Kaydee couplings into the buffer beams, I have used Kaydee no5 couplings mounted slightly proud of the buffer beam (purely because I had them in stock rather than a longer version) The other reason was that on the layout you cant see the protrusion given that it is hidden by the buffers and corridor connection.
    I started by cutting a slot into the buffer beam, added two packing pieces of 40thou plasticard on to the floor in order to match the height of the slot. However this causes another problem, in that the coupling now fouls the front of the bogie on curves. There are two solutions, chop the front off the bogie to clear or modify the coupling. I chose the latter and reprofiled the rear of the coupling box.

    I also fitted to one end of a Virgin Mk2e SO in order that they can be tested on Brent in order to ensure the coupling gaps are ok
    I can’t find my Kaydee box to do any more, but the intention will be to modify the chassis and fit couplings to the other coaches slowly over time
     
    Next was the interior, I found a few photos showing the insides of a Virgin mk2F RFB on the DEMU Forum and knocked up a rough approximation of the buffet counter from plasticard. Removing seats and gluing the new counter into place, along with the enclosure for the payphone.
    With that done I gave the interior a quick detail job, painting the tables and headrests white, (I have a bunch of cheap figure on order from China to populate the coach).
     

     

     
    One final modification to the Kaydee once it was on the track was with the pin, I usually remove these from Kaydees (I only use them as a representation of buckeyes so do not need the bits associated with auto coupling). So I have bent the pin through 90 degrees on one side to represent the air pipes
     

    Another job that needs finishing will be replacing the roof vents, which look awful!
  13. The Fatadder
    At Scaleforum one of the key purchases on my shopping list was a set of handrail brackets for a couple of Bachmann Toads from MRD. While I was there I spotted the etched replacement doors for Iron Minks, which comes with a brass roof and break gear. Seeing as I have an unbuilt ratio kit in the to do pile I couldn’t resist.
     
    Tonight I made a start...
     
    The first job was to remove the unwanted detail on the door and underframe,
     
    Next up was building the basic kit

     
    Then it was onto the replacement door, I have glued the hinges into position but still need to add the locking bars once it is all dry
     
    I added a strip of plastic above the door haveing filed off the original part when removing the original hinges etc

     
    I did try supergluing the roof in position but it didn’t stick, I will try again with evostick tomorrow. The instructions suggest flying to the plastic roof, however I think just the etch would look a lot better.
    Here is the original ca the replacement

     
    That’s it for tonight, tomorrow I should get the roof on and the breaks made. It will be finished as 69131 which is pictured in post war livery with wooden doors in the GWSG Iron Mink book
     

    I also spent a bit of time getting this wooden mink finished, I picked it up for a fiver from the Bring and Buy at Scaleforum because it has scale couplings fitted and decent weathering. On further inspection it appears to be scratch built with a brass roof, I have fitted some OO wheels and it’s now ready to move out to Brent

  14. The Fatadder
    Today I have been debating the benefits of lining coaches vs buying a bow pen and painting them on. Working from a photo of the prototype, it was determined that Kingsbridge Branch No 2 was in wartime brown in the late 40s (while No1 was in Hawksworth livery as has already been modelled).
     
    Once again I used the Replica OHLE warning line transfers for the lining, and HMRS for the GWR logos / Guard / First. The lining was completed in lots of small lengths, before varnishing the completed side to keep it all in place. The original glazing was then refitted before putting the body back onto its chassis. There are still gaps between the transfers, (over hinges, door handles and grab rails). My plan is that I will touch in these gaps with orange paint.
     

     
    With the sides "finished", I added the custom Kingsbridge Branch No.2 transfers (Railtec) to the ends.

     
    Still to do:
    Add lining and transfers to the other side
    Replace the glazing with Shawplan Lazerglaze
    Fix the chassis (straight buffer beams, correct battery boxes, vac gear)
    New couplings
     

    Testing on the Kingsbridge Branch.
     

    I have now touched up the gaps in the transfers with orange paint, posed after arrival info Brent
  15. The Fatadder

    Another cattle wagon

    By The Fatadder,

    Last night saw cattle van no3 assembled, this time building straight from the kit rather than adding my usual sprung suspension as the wagon is being built for OO only. Going forward it will just be long wheelbase stock getting the extra suspension units (along with anything with poorly designed parts in the kit)
     
    I do like the design of these coopercraft kits, they just fall together and have such crisp tooling. The open slats on the mink that is next on the bench are some of the best open grills I have seen on a plastic model.
    A real shame they didn’t end up with someone competent to run the range
     
    Tonight I will get the insides painted white and get the roofs on, ready for paint.
  16. The Fatadder

    More wagons

    By The Fatadder,

    A lot more wagon work this evening,
     
    First up a bunch of wagons from my Cheddar valley project that have now been rewheeled for Brent, most of these were missing buffers (given that they were originally going to get sprung buffers.) I have now temporarily fitted them with fixed steel buffer heads, however the diameter is too large for most of the wagons so they will eventually need replacing with the correct size. I am seriously thinking about temporarily fitting with spare tensionlock couplings until the layout is more complete and I have time (and budget) to start fitting scale couplings. Some time spent operating the layout will also help finalise the coupling choice going forward.

    Here there is a long wheelbase mink (Parkside), Fruit D (Parkside), Mink (I think Ratio), All Steel mineral Bachmann, GW 5 plank open (Coopercraft), 5 plank Foster Yeoman (Parkside), unpainted Southern 7 plank (Cambrian), LMS 3 plank that still needs buffers (Ratio), LMS Van (Cambrian), P17 "Starfish" (Kirk)
     

    The Cambrian P18 ballast wagon is also progressing well, as it approaches the stage of needing buffers, wirons and break gear (once the suspension units are fully dry
     


    Finally another old Cambrian kit for a 7 plank open in English China Clays livery, went together a lot better than the P18! This just needs brake leavers / door guards and couplings, plus the door opening bar, then it will be finished
     
    There are still 10-15 kits in the pile, including cattle wagons (that are the next to be worked on), more vans and opens, plus a couple of Loco Coal wagons from Cambrian. One of which will end up in the branch goods en route to Kingsbridge loco shed.
     
    I also have another syphon coming from ebay, to start building up some more NPCCS, though is a couple of full brakes that I should really be looking for...
  17. The Fatadder
    Today I have been trying to tidy up the workshop today (which has become a total state over the past few months).
    As part of this I have been trying to sort out unfinished projects, one of which was the D14 break van needed for my workmans train on Brent.
     
    After painting it last year it has sat waiting for final fittings. So today I set about adding the very nice castings for the grab rails and door handles. Along with a tidy up of excess glue on the glazing.
     

    Really impressed with the castings, so much nicer than working with the flat etch version. This is currently about the limit of my modelling working with PVA, my eyes need longer to fully heal before I will expose them to the fumes from solvents / paints.
     

    It now needs buffers and the roof gluing on, the former I cant do at the moment as it means soldering the etched buffer heads onto the shafts (solder fumes seem a bad idea for a while!). The roof is more problematic as it is not a great fit, it is the one part of the Slaters design that I really dislike. I much prefer to build coaches as a unit of sides / ends / roof with a sperate floor so that you can get back in after building.
     

    The final area that needs work is the chassis, there are 2 prongs either side of the bogie which connect to a beam under the frames. The problem is that with them fitted it interfears with movement. I am thinking of chopping down the length to allow free movement.
     



  18. The Fatadder
    Having had it pointed out that the tender for my model of 6829
    In wartime black should probably be in G crest W rather than GWR as I had modeled. A bit more research later and I found a photo on colour rail of the loco in question taken in 1947, one ‘modellers scan’ later and it was very clear that the model should have the crest not GWR. (It also proved that it should have the white X above the number plate).
     
    So after removing the original transfers with water I replaced them with a set of G crest W, and the loco can now return to service
  19. The Fatadder

    1364

    By The Fatadder,

    At the weekend’s SWAG members day I couldn’t resist buying a pre production 1361 from Kernow Models. At the time I was rather spoiled for choice, as there were both painted and unpainted options available (all non running). In the end I decided that I have enough painting backlog, and would be best served buying 1364 in post war GW livery.

     
    There are a few areas which will need to be fixed, it is missing coupling hooks, a lamp iron and a hand rail, there are also a couple of areas on the metal chassis which will need the paint touching up. In addition the slide bars need regluing into position, and some slop needs to be taken out of the wheels to improve running.
     
    Then of course eventually it needs to be powered…. After reading about the unpainted versions coming with motors but various wiring faults stopping them running I had hoped I might get lucky, I didn’t. After dismantling the loco retrofitting a motor looks like it will be tricky (and by the time the missing gears have also been added, I suspect expensive. In this case that is completely fine, the loco is intended to be attached to a Newton Abbot – Laira goods as a way of getting 1364 back home after receiving an overhaul and a shiny new coat of GWR green with post war branding. As such the lack of motor actually rather helps in saving me having to correctly consist 1364 with the pannier or 43xx that is hauling the train.

  20. The Fatadder
    A long time ago I started a respray of a Hornby Class 31 into the Wessex Trains pink livery as part of fleet of stock in 2006 condition. I got as far as converting the body, repairing the damage due to the original chassis expanding, and painting the yellow ends.
     
    As part of my process of finishing off old projects either for use on Wheal Imogen or for sale, I have dug it out to finish off.
     
    First off a decision was needed on which livery to paint it in, a toss up between Fraggonset Black, Large Logo Grey or EWS red. I have no photos of a class 31 working in Cornwall on anything other than a rail tour, so which ever option I went with the loco wouldn't be of much use on this layout (or my very long term project based around the Cornish mainline).
     
    An identity
    Up until yesterday the front runner was to be Large Logo grey, particularly as I have a Class 37 to paint in that livery. However while looking through Flickr for inspiration I came across photos of 31466 in ex works EWS at Totton in 1998. I have always had a soft spot for a Class 31 in EWS, there is something very interesting looking having such an old machine in a (then) modern livery. So that made the decision for me. ​Still no idea what on earth it is doing in clay country, so I suspect the old get out of jail free card of running it on an engineers train will be the obvious answer...
     
    ​Recapping the work so far,
    I started with a body shell in BR blue, stripped the paint to remove the raised beading and removed the bufferbeam cowlings. a roof fan cowling from a Dutch Hornby model was added, as was a Shawplan etched roof grill. The headcode box was plated over with a Shawplan etch (but looking at the photos needs a little more filler). Ffinally a central high intensity headlight was fitted to the ends (the configuration that I do not believe Hornby have ever tooled up). ​For the moment this is non working, but eventually it will have to have an LED fitted...
     
    ​It was then primed in white, had the warning yellow ends sprayed followed by brush paining Wessex pink for the joint between yellow and the windows. The concern was that given the location of the pink - yellow joint masking had a high risk of failure, so brush painting here allowed for an overlap of the joint when masking.
     
    Getting on with the model
    I started by spraying the gold, foolishly I did this yesterday in sub zero external temperatures (although I did have the garage heater on full for 2 hours before spraying.) As a result I cant determine if my painting issues were down to poor mixing of paint or the cold. Either way the 31 was just about ok for a first coat, while the 37 / 50 that I was spraying yellow ends were total failures. Today I have been brush painting some repairs (as well as getting paint on the tricky to reach bits). This was followed by overpainting the Wessex pink with EWS maroon. this will be cut back with some fine emery paper before spraying. I also noticed the yellow is approx. 2mm too high for the new loco identity, so this will need overspraying with maroon when I eventually get round to it.

     
    Once it warms up I will be taking the loco to the club along with my airbrush to spray under supervision, aiming to identify any issues with technique before I mask up and spray the maroon.
     
    Then I can get on with painting the grey 37 and LL blue 50.....
  21. The Fatadder
    50022 has now been fitted with the majority of transfers, along with a set of Fox nameplates (bought a very long time ago when the loco was still in revised NSE.
     
    There are still a couple of jobs left before I can reassemble, the black paint did not work well with the masking tape around the windows, so this needs to be touched in by hand. In order to do this I need a new paint brush, so it’s waiting an amazon delivery. I also managed to damage the roof grill putting the body on, I didn’t notice a bent bald on the etched fan which pushed through the grill mesh. I have tried to give as best I could but eventually it will need a new grill. Finally it needs an orange cantrail line, I tried with my old replica pack but they wouldn’t stick...

     
    The 31 has had the final paint touch up and just needs the cantrail line before I can varnish. It also needs a new 4 on one side as the original transfer has Half peeled off.
     

  22. The Fatadder

    PDK 4707 part 9

    By The Fatadder,

    For the latest update I have managed a fair bit of progress, more or less getting back on track with the build.
     
    The first task was to get the tender parts washed in CIF and then sprayed with etch primer, this will mean that at the very least the black can be sprayed on the chassis tonight (as can the green if I make it to Halfords after work.) Most annoyingly the masking tape fell off the buffers mid spray, so they have now been ceased up with grey paint! (I know I could have removed the heads, but access looked rather tricky. Next time I think I will do it properly!)

     
    The next (and final) major assembly is the cylinders, the actual cylinder etch was the final part the previous owner had assembled (and the bit that was finished to the lowest standard.) The etched wrapper was not attached fully, while solder had flooded the holes for the slide bars. The first job was to repair the existing work, completing the solder joint along both edges of the cylinders front / rear and opening up the holes with small drills and a scalpel. This was followed by opening up the holes for the upper castings, and soldering on the large disks to the lower front of the cylinder.
     
    Next it was time to start on the slidebars, soldering up the etch before tidying up the inside and soldering on the motion bracket. The first side went perfectly and was soon test fitted to the cylinders, the other side proved a lot more difficult and took a couple of attempts (before managing to brake it once again pressing into the cylinder. While following a similar design to that of Comet, I did think the fit of parts a lot better (the quality of the cast cross head was much better). That said it still wasn’t perfect and required a fair bit of fettling to get it sliding properly.
     

     
    Any idea what these are for? I can’t find them in the instructions

     
    This leaves only a couple more tasks remaining: [*]Fit castings to clyinders, fit sandboxes and fit the cast posts to the front of the tender. [*]Add front handrails to tender (once painted and assembled) [*]Paint cylinders need priming and painting [*]Paint body and tender [*]Refit Motor, add pickups to one side and test [*]Secure motion into position for which I really need to get on and buy the washers!)
     

    I am still on track to finish the model before the Heljan example hits the shelves!
  23. The Fatadder

    PDK 4707 part 7

    By The Fatadder,

    The plan last night was for some painting, followed by the completion of the soldering on the tender.
     
    I started with the painting, the chassis was sprayed Halfords Satin Black while the body was sprayed in Halfords Rover Brooklands Green. Unfortunately the latter ran out half way through so I need to buy more before I can finish it off. I will also need to have a look at how best to angle paint onto the model, as I am struggling to get coverage of a couple of areas behind detail (lower firebox behind the sandbox linkage and boiler behind the pipe). Hopefully I will make it to Halfords today or tomorrow to buy more.

     
    While the paint dried It was back upstairs to the workshop and onto the soldering, starting with the assembly of the tender steps before soldering them onto the tender chassis behind the valance. This was another of those areas I found rather poorly designed, as it was tricky getting the soldering iron into the gap behind the step to apply heat. Far better would either have been further tab and slot, or fitting to the valance before soldering in place. I find it a bit odd that the frames were fitted with tab and slot yet nothing else followed the same approach, despite it being more suitable…
     
    Once I was happy with the final positioning of the steps the second assembly was to solder up the raised platform on the front of the tender, this still needs to be soldered into position on the chassis.
     
    With the soldering finished for the moment, I made a start fitting the castings to the tender chassis (which is now fully fitted with axleboxes and springs). This is now ready for cleaning and a coat of etch primer.

     
    The final job was to fit the top valance to the tank, I started by removing circa 0.5mm from the bottom of the bulkhead which had been etched too large (presumably a mistake in the material allowance for the fold given the removal is mentioned in the instructions). Once I had a good match, the etched top plate was glued to the resin tank with Epoxy and put to one side to dry.

     

    The final job was to reassemble the chassis, it should be an easy job but unfortunately I am having issues getting the Markits wheels back on square.
     

    Updated Plan:
    Tonight – Detail the tender, refit the gearbox and pony truck to chassis + ensure wheels are square, prime tender, paint inside frames red
    Tomorrow- Buy more green paint so that body and tender can be sprayed green
    Friday – Build Cylinders, aim to test run
    Weekend – Paint black on loco / tender, final detailing and assembly
     
    Still need to buy:
    Replacement isolated wheels for one side
    4707 etched plate
    DCC Decoder
    Crankpin nut retaining washers / replacement crankpins
  24. The Fatadder

    PDK 4707 part 5

    By The Fatadder,

    Given that the 47xx body is now complete (with the exception of the top feed pipes which I keep forgetting to add!)
     
    My original thought was towards making a start on the cylinders assembly in order that I could finish off the chassis. However given that it will require shortening the lead crankpin, a task I do not want to do until I have soldered the washers into place to hold on the con rods) the cylinders will have to wait until I paint the chassis. Which reminds me I must go to Halfords and buy etch primer today!)
     
    Instead I made a start on building the tender.
    So far I have soldered up the main parts of the chassis, it’s a little disappointing not to have rivet detail on the valances or any detail on the draw beam. I also couldn’t understand why the valances, buffer beam and draw beam do not have the same tab and slot construction as the main sides. Still, it was all soldered together square before trying to clean up the excess solder. This was followed by adding the tank support brackets, after fettling to achieve a good fit between frame and valance. Finally on the chassis I soldered the draw bar mount into position, along with a shortened 10ba bolt.
     
    The next task was the one I was most dreading, adding the etched side to the top of the tender. The instructions stated to use 4mm diameter bar to form the curves, as well as mentioning a tab for alignment on the rear of the baseplate. Unfortunately this tab was over etched which made the alignment a little trickier. I used my own approach for forming curved sections in brass, after aligning the valance centrally on the baseplate I tack soldered the rear face into position (using a thick band of solder next to each corner). Once happy that it was square, I rolled the first side against the wooden desk, pressing it against the baseplate former. This was then tacked in position ensuing it was square, before completing the soldered joint along the whole edge. This was then repeated for the other side of the tender.
     
    With the valance in place, the next job was to add the front and rear bulkheads, fire iron tunnel and bunker front, before test fitting on the frame assembly.
     
    Tonight I am aiming to finish off the soldering on the front of the tender and get the 4 sub-assemblies joined together. Hopefully along with priming the loco body and chassis.

  25. The Fatadder

    4707 part 4

    By The Fatadder,

    3 hours in the workshop this morning has seen progress on the chassis,
     
    First the missing pipe was added to the valance, so the body is now finished.
     

    Onto the chassis, I don’t like the cast metal pony truck, but as I have nothing better I have made do. I have improved it by fitting brass bearings before soldering together.
     
    Next was the bogie mount, first filing a gulag surface onto the top and bottom of the brass bar spacer, then drilling a2mm hole
     
    Finally the brakes were soldered into position along with the linkages. The chassis is now ready for paint,
     
    The next job will be the tender, the clyinders can wait until the chassis is painted
×
×
  • Create New...