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The Fatadder

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Blog Comments posted by The Fatadder

  1. I think it must just be a one off, I don’t recall any issue with the other 5 that I’ve built.

     

    In fact I had to check to be sure, but sure enough comparing the left over brass from the ends of the etch the different profile is clearly visible. I assume comet make coaches to a couple of different profiles and this one was put through the wrong press

  2. While I can’t comment on the ends, the recessed sections on the sides certainly make the restaurant first were the hardest I’ve done. I’m not a big fan of the comet design for the recesses, I think the flat section with filler would have been better with two fold up sections profiles to match the side.

     

    I still need to research super saloon workings in 1947, as I rather fancy converting some.....

  3. Well I did the other side tonight (evostick currently setting) and sorted out the roof of the third (nice and easy to remove the panel) I also removed the underframe box ready to start rebuilding

     

    Castle, are you planning to concert Airfix/Hornby or go for the full comet kit? I was in two minds st the start, but having now done 2 thirds, a left hand brake and the restaurant pair I’m glad I went down the conversion route as I don’t think there’s a huge difference between them, while I’m saving at least £25 a coach!

     

    Tomorrow I want to get the roof of the restaurant pair finished and the first side on the composite.

     

    Once these are done I have a final RH brake left that I am considering converting into a BCK....

  4. I think the problem is both, I certainly cut the cross head shaft too short ( I cut it based on the crosshead at full length of slide bar.)

     

    On the slide bar I thought you were supposed to cut on the Half etched line. The extra mm on the end would make it ok length wise.

     

    To be honest I’m not overly happy with the quality of the cast crosshead relative to the etched ones I am used to with Mitchell kits or the machined Markits product (with which I am thinking of replacing these). The main problem being the amount of fettling needed to get a good fit on the slide bars, coupled with the fact it needs painting. I really didn’t like the bends in the rod. as an improvement I am thinking of cutting the rod off completely and replacing with brass soldered on (maybe with a 1mm diameter pin in the joint)

     

    I’m also considering trying the Saint wheels to see if the crank pin is in a more suitable position (I suspect worse)

     

    I’ve added a clearer photo from today after I redid the con rods with recessed nuts to clear the cross head

  5. I had thought of doing something similar to the seat outline, as it would be fairly quick to draw something up in CAD and run it through the silhouette cutter.   But on the other hand given the differences in power (and as you say the fact that it would have issues running in multiple with a 153) I am more inclined to rip the whole thing out and either rebuild with just one driven bogie (and no metal chassis block), or junk the whole thing and use a black beetle.

  6. The Hornby Model scrubs up well!

     

    That it does, 

    the only problem now is that a fair few of the parts used (in particular the chimney and the smokebox door, along with the back head and safety valve bonnet) were all from the no longer available Mainly Trains detailing kit.

     

    Honestly speaking, if I was doing a second P4 14xx / 58xx I would be using the Hornby body as a start point (on another High Level chassis).  For OO if I had needed one for Brent I would have probably ended up doing the same, however as I don't need one (and the DJM BR black example was half the new price) it was too good to resist.  the chassis / motor alone would be close to what I paid for the DJM model.

     

    Much more detail on the Hornby conversion here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/blog-853/cat-478-5813

  7. So the boiler has had a couple more coats of primer and another two applications of filler and is now almost complete.  Of course I cant actually find the chimney and top feed / bonnet.

     

    It's not in the box with the other parts for this loco, so going to have to search through various spares boxes...

     

    The Romford wheels have a number of damaged crank pins, all of which are proving very difficult to remove.  Hopefully they are saveable...   The Gibson pony truck wheels which were completely rusted were at least recovered after some work with the fiberglass pencil. 

     

    Once I finally get the wheels apart I will try matching the frame up against the etched one.  

  8. Fun stuff,

    I keep forgetting about the flange clearance requirement, it just doesn't register as a consideration after so long using P4. That said if the original chassis is right, the clearance is just ok.

    Yesterday I realised that all of my existing wagons are not able to be converted as the weight fouls the OO flange

     

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