dmeaden

Superb model - kit built or ready made?

Yes, would have got there by accident when oiling the motion/cogs! I didn’t used to use a hyperdermic needle but just the dropper on the oil bottle which introduced too much oil for n- gauge if not very careful.

Just a final thought; is the copper strip moulded into the plastic tender frame and/or can it or the wheels be removed to check the wear. Dr Al - your comment on over oiling I assume would apply to Farish loco’s too? I have a Fairburn that I may have too much oil on the axle pickup bushes?

Les and Dr Al, Thanks for the replies and info. Most of my Fapol A3’s and A4’s are great runners and if I not they get some work on them to get them running smooth and slow before and during DCC’ing. I have 5 A4’s and the first one I have that needs maintenance is the oldest and has run many miles having run the equivalent of st least 5 or 6 actual miles in its 8? years. There are some signs of wear on the tender wheels and I guessing the rubber traction tyre is close to life expired. However it has always run reliably and now doesn’t ie: stops when previously it didn’t. It is possible it got some oil in the driving bushes although it has only been lubricated sparingly. I will test contacts and see if I can isolate the problem - I have put sound in the tender so a little limited on extra weight but it never needed it before and my other versions all run ok without. I since have added some weight with lead strip and also used platinum putty to mould a new coal load. So if the tender pick-ups are not cups but just holes in the copper strip -could these have worn with use? After the above I may try the aforementioned specialist firm!

Thanks Les It is interesting your comments about the pick-ups. I keep the wheels spotless and check the tender to chassis wires regularly to ensure good current collection. So something has started causing intermittent operation and stalling so can only be from the tender pick-ups and/or the main wheel bushes? I’ll try adding some oil to the main drive as you describe but suspect it is still a pick-ups issue. I’ll test the wheel pick-ups by applying power in sequence using a rolling road and see if I get the same results before sending it to DCC Supplies.

I have a few A4’s (and similar A3’s). A few of the older models have done many hours and showing signs of wear & tear and require cleaning. I am trying to work out how to remove the tender wheels to allow cleaning of the pin-point pick-ups in the copper strip. The wheel sets do not seem to pop out so I am wondering how this is achieved? Is it possible to close up the back to backs on the insulated axles enough to pop them out without damaging the parts?

Can anyone confirm that this will be a coreless motor drive in the loco and tender to house the decoder?

Thanks Ross - I have come across Ernie’s photos before but this detailed archive is a great help. A couple of images when blown up provide just about enough information to put the building shapes together for the modelling. Again all, many thanks and will look out just in case some more photos come to light....?

Chard, Blandford '69 & Ross - many thanks for the links - I have accessed them now :-) The station and goods shed are well represented and there are a good few here that I haven't seen or don't have details for, so will be helpful for the goods shed in phase 1. The station is phase 2 and a much grander project and these details fill a lot of the gaps :-) The engine shed appears to have been demolished by the time these shots were taken so there are still some details that may need to be deduced although the attached buildings to the goods shed do contain more detail and will allow me to finish off the details at the back of the shed. Again many thanks and I will keep looking for more back of shed details....

I’ve not tried a coreless motor with CT decoders - could it be the lack of resistance in this type of motor that causes the failure readback ( recognise) the CV’s? I have only used Zimo decoders recently and these work fine but the decoder and running benefit from careful adjustment of the motor cv’s when using coreless to get the best control & smoothness.

Hi Everyone - This forum and the other Waverley Route forums here at RMweb have been a great inspiration and source of information for railway modelling this former magnificent railway. I am currently trying to model Hawick shed and the support buildings to the rear. I have a good amount of information on the shed and water tower but I am struggling with the buildings behind which appear to incorporate the boiler room, toilets and mess areas, lamp rooms etc. I have some older plans at small scales and a couple of pictures of part of the elevations and roofs (e.g. 64539 pictured at Hawick in 1958) on the south side. Some longer range shots hint at details (e.g. the very useful book Carlisle to Hawick) and some other details so much can be "assumed" or deduced. Before I make up the rest perhaps someone here might know of any further sources of photo's or details that might be available to assist finishing the shed areas? All assistance gratefully received.... Best Regards DM

Thanks Ben. Look forward to the possibility and the Class A tanks too!

Are there any thoughts for another run? I need at least a dozen....?

Some great looking prototype models. You won’t regret using finetrax - it takes a while especially the turnouts but the effort is worth the finescale appearance and most rtr stock runs smoothly.... Looking forward to seeing some A3’s and A4’s.....

On 24th September someone said the order deadline was after Warley. I pop back this evening, having completed my research on models compatible with my era and find the book is already closed. A bit disappointed......

I’d have a couple....

Thanks! That made me chuckle:-) Chuck Easinlove

Having too much fun running them around fully loaded!The finished article is quite exquisite, the detail very well moulded the load fits just tight enough on my three. I will have to weather them which would be sacrilege but I've never seen a clean one in real life? Many thanks.... Looking forward to the Clayton's.....

I could explain it but its probably patented!

Dapol schools with DCC sound and real coal load: Hope this works....

Latest I heard from Bachmann source was July.

Looks to be a great improvement and the randomness of the coal lumps and the "shiny" steam coal adds to the realism. I have had the same problem a number of times and have managed to complete the task on a Dapol Schools - not because the coal was too unsightly but I had to fit a sound decoder and speaker in the tender. If I could work out how to post a picture I would show the results for comments!? Not easy but achievable...

Excellent work and all in serious need of some rust and dust!

And some sheep, bearing in mind the namesake? Or even a future upgrade - a cattle(sheep) dock? Very enjoying your thread, the modelling and the variety of stock. DM

I think I'd be having a word with the depot manager to get some of those grimy locos cleaned! Looking good! With respect to the test point I have found as follows: Switch blades to tie bar - I have super glued mine to date. Until I am happy with running I do not glue them just leave them loose clipped into the rail until testing and running satisfactory. The rails and check rails seem to tighten up when they are butanoled - again I leave mine until testing completed. The tie bar hole is perfect for traintronics point motors and I guess other types too. The frogs need a fair bit of adjustment to get dead level and smooth. I tend to adjust at the base so they sit better but do need some work lowering the frog where the wheel flanges run through by careful filing. Any minuscule change in level to rail height or flange clearance will impede perfect running so needs to be carefully fettled until perfectly level - not easy to see by eye but running an 08 or tank loco usually shows any slight undulations. The rail does expand and contract and it might even move a small amount so you ideally need 1/4 to 1/2mm gap. I use a thin metal gauge but even then after running and switching things seem to move a bit. To help I use 0.3mm brass wire droppers at 90 degrees to track to help restrain rails. I loose fit the rails that join the frog area and then trim the frog at the end to get the best gap before gluing in position. On type A points you can just get away without the isolating rails next to the frog but needed for large points as you have done. Hope this helps and will add more as I think of it if that's ok... Regards DaveM