10000

Had a look at the website. Its a long time since I bought from someone in Burnley but I do remember it was a better site than that. It does seem to be the same company as the rolling road is the same as the one I got. I found the box and it is the same web address. So I received my items.

Unlikely they will run well together unless you speed match.

This sort of thing seems to be an increasing problem and not just with APC. I had an instance with Royal Mail where no attempt was made to knock on the door just a card pushed through 'as not in collect from the local sorting office'. When I opened the door and shouted to the post person who was 2 doors down they had to go over to the van to get the parcel. Some of the numerous Amazon drivers won't wait for you to answer the door. They knock and then head straight back to the van. In fairness some do give you time to get to the door.

Before you start taking them apart or modifying do some testing. 1) Ensure each unit works properly on its own for an extended period of time. 2) Try both units on the track about a foot apart and see how they behave like that. If they are badly mismatched then either the rear one will catchup quickly or fall behind. So you will know that it's not possible to run them both motored. What is your DC controller, a standard model like a gauge master or a feedback controller

True these days but Bachmann used to put 8 pin sockets in locos For the OP, I suggest you do a reset of the decoder, often 8 into CV 8 but check the docs. Also please provide info on type of DCC controller (ie whats the Red Button?)

Don't be put off white metal kits by one negative comment about K's kits. K's are no where near the best and can require a lot of work with files to get the parts to fit together but there are other makes that assemble quite well. One of the best I've had was the Peco 009 tank engine. The casting were well made and required very little work to get them to fit together.

I have a Powercab on 15 volts and had the same problem with a Zimo that was fitted in a secondhand Kato H0. Took the the Zimo out and fitted a Lenz (until sound was fitted) and it ran with no problems after that.

Bonjour is not an application on the Mac that you open. It is a network protocol much like multicast DNS. It is used to identify bonjour compliant devices like Macs, some printers and NAS's and make them easily attached to. The Lenz interface is not a Bonjour device it is discovered by it's IP address. Bonjour has not disappeared from Macs. But the ability to find and access some Bonjour printers has been removed from Safari.

Someone else you could try is Contikits of Ryton. While he is mostly European and American he does sell some British s/hand

Are you trying to throw 2 points simultaneously because a few years ago when I was in a workshop building layouts we tried the Peco PL35 and found it was incapable of firing 2 at the same time. Power supply mades no difference the only solution was a better CDU

Lifetime warranty they may have but I'll be looking to replace with Tortoise in future when they fail because I've had enough of them. I only have 18 so not as much investment as you. I started with the original motors operating from their ( I think the number is correct) AD4 decoder boards. One board went back because one decoder exploded. 2 motors were replaced within the first 12 months. One for losing power, it was attempting to run but not enough power to operate the point. The other for the clicking noise. A third was then replaced again for the clicking. I have since had another fail with more like banging than clicking when powered up and operated. That was replaced with one of the new motors for me to find that they don't work on the old decoder boards so I had to buy one of the decoders to fit on that motor. That motor has now started the clicking (banging) At 67 years old I can do without having to get under the baseboard to keep replacing them.

What is derailing could be helpful? Steam locos with front bogie or pony truck can be a common cause due to the back to back on those wheels which can easily be affected by pressing on the wheels when placing them on the track.

Didn't see this mentioned on here. I would imaging that it can be configured for '00' as it can be used on 'H0' and 'N' https://www.tcsdcc.com/Customer_Content/Products/Train_Speedometers/index.php

IMHO Brunel is very overrated. His spectactular failures are usually forgotten or glossed over. The Great Way Round with it's broad gauge, the atmospheric railway, his design for Didcot station, the Great Eastern launching, all spectacular mistakes or failures Everyone also seems to forget that although he designed Paddington (yes its a great station) much of the architectural detail was done by Wyatt To be fair he did produced some great bridges.

One of my layouts has been on 12mm chipboard for over 12 years now, granted it was free but its done the job. It came into our factory as a layer between paper sacks and the pallets and ended up as scrap so I acquired some. If you have factories/warehouses near you that receive palleted goods see if they have any as scrap material.

Instead of a wagon what about a shunters truck, Horny do one

Advice given by Bachmann to a model shop I used to frequent was that with their small locos/motors was turn off BEMF so give that a try

I suggest you read this page. https://ncedcc.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/203244199-Two-Power-Cabs-on-the-same-layout

Search the web on how to measure scale speed. A lot are for H0 but there are some for 00. My Bachmann 42's top out at 70mph on DCC and they do look slow when compared to something doing 90/100 mph.

Hum or more of a buzzing. Hum is something I associate with a motor trying to turn but something is stopping it. Buzzing - DC loco on DCC. If its all lights coming on that sounds like a DC loco. I've never bought a Bachmann DCC fitted but isn't there something about the code number that indicates it DCC fitted. The 21 over DCC logo means it has a 21 pin plug in, not that it is fitted with a decoder

Can not comment about the Peco wiring harness because mine are all soldered on with wire from 100m spools but in my experience only going one way is usually down to incorrect wiring. Red should be correct so check the green and black

OK a bit more time now. Izzy has made a sound suggestion The reason I don't want you to cut the wires yet is so that if we do this then we want to keep as much hidden in the tender as possible so that only the original wires are visible between the tender and loco. If the retailer option falls through then for what I have in mind, I want to do it where you only have to solder wires and not attempt to solder to the board. For this you will need the following 8 pin plug complete with wires - maybe you have one left over. 21 pin blank. Heat shrink of a suitable size Glue gun may also be useful but if you don't have then don't bother getting one. I'll leave it there for now while we wait and see if something via the retailer is viable.

Rob don't cut the wires yet. You could maybe make it easier to identify the wires by using the tender off the runner. No cable to pull out the tender. Unplugged from the loco. Remove the decoder. Then using the meter on buzzer check each wire from the loco end to the 8 pin decoder socket in the tender. I would expect you to find 6 of the wires that way. The final 2 wires you may find by checking them against the pins of the 21 pin plug at the back of tender. If you decide to do this take your time and make notes then repeat the process to confirm. If you can get that info there could be the possibility of getting DCC and may be sound as well. Mike

If you need more help with the non runner or anything else then remember people on here will do things at any pace you want to set. Don't feel obliged to do things every day. Do things in a way that is right for you. Don't wear yourself out, its only a hobby. Mike

This is a question for the electronic experts on here. Had this thought while running some trains. If Rob cannot find someone to solder a surface mount socket back into the tender could the 8 pin socket be used for some of the wiring. Using an 8 pin plug with wires attached so that 6 connections are wires soldered to the wires that go to the loco. 2 track pickups, 2 motor feeds and 2 for the front light leaving only what I assume is a chuff sensor to sort out. Maybe some of you could work out which pins on the 21 pin plug that uses and a way to connect to them. Shoot me down if you think it a rubbish idea.