brossard

Will, as above I recommend you measure the wheels (drivers and tender) back to backs. For this, it's best to use a digital caliper, a useful tool to have if you don't have one. I would expect them to be around 14.4mm. Measure two or three times to get a good average. Mine measures between 14.4 - 14.5mm, but it hasn't run beyond an initial play on a straight test track. It's surprising, as little as 0.1mm can make a difference. John

Glad you got a loco that works to your satisfaction John. Pity about the 4F. John

As I start work on converting my coach to EM, I have built a fresh pair of bogies from the Comet kit: I had originally intended to use the Bachmann sides but decided to use the Comet castings instead (suitable modded to look welded). Bachmann's bogies look a little one dimensional as has been mentioned in several places. I did use the side control thingies. Note that I have cut out the end beam on one bogie, but unlike Bachmann I have compensated for that by reinforcing with brass strip. The cutout is to provide clearance for a Kadee at the loco end. John

A little more detail John please. Is/are the point(s) Hornby, Peco, hand made or someone else's? My first thought on hearing things like this is back to back. RTR locos tend to be a tad narrow in my experience (I usually aim for 14.5mm), but I've never had an issue with this. I've never had to resort to adjusting drivers. I'm guessing the derailment occurs at the crossing. Opening out the flangeways with a small flat file has helped me in the past. A picture of the offending point with an indication of where the derailment occurs would help too. John

Thanks for the pictures Shedmaster. I bought the Masterclass kit (only because it was a steal and I do like brass kits). The instructions include a diagram of the brake gear set up. I could scan and post here but I'm not certain of the copyright. If anyone wants the sketch, PM me and I'll email it. John

By gum that looks right nice. John

I made up a pair of Bedford sprung bogies for my GUV upgrade. Very nice I thought. I glued sides from a Bachmann bogie to them although I would have been better off soldering some whitemetal sides. The angled bodgework at one end is to clear Kadee couplings mounted under the buffer neam. John

I was wondering about regauging. I guess I knew the wheels would be useless being split axle. I wasn't sure about the bogie itself. I don't like that they are cut away at the front (assuming they're the same as the Porthole) - looks weak to me. I've got an old pair of Comet bogies that will come in handy. Edit: Post 189 shows the bogie is cut away. John

Agree about it not being likely that we'll see pre group coaches in either original livery or LMS livery. The only coaches that one would be likely to see in simplified LMS livery are period III examples - of course Hornby have done some very good models of these. The Airfix/Dapol non-corridors are, I think, period III, but are wrong for the pull push conversions. Period I or II coaches would likely have remained in their original Midland style panelled lining - I haven't seen pictures of these in post 1934 simplified lining. Happy to be proven wrong. John

...but...no push pull stock has been announced. ...or did I miss something? John

Another marvellous model to look forward to. Thankfully I haven't got a kit for this. John

I've done the beading: Verticals are 0.040" x 0.010" strip. Horizontals are 0.020" rod. Secured with cyano. John

Thanks. Knowing what doesn't work is useful. The other thing that crosses my mind is 1mm wide phosphor bronze strip, although this may be too thick. 0.040" (1mm) x 0.010" plastic strip seems, in my mind, to be about right. John For those wondering, for some reason the previous poster decided to delete the post that I responded to.

Coachman, if you're watching, I took your advice and scrounged a hard plastic gangway set from my spares box. It's the only one I have - all the rest are those 'orrible squidgy affairs. Even so, the plastic seems impervious to solvent. I'm quite a bit happier about this since I have the inside door detail and didn't want to use an end plate. I tried to represent the springs on the suspension apparatus - they need a trim I think. I used some masking tape to represent the canvas cover. My next big job is the panel beading. I'm thinking plastic strip and cyano unless there's a better idea out there. The roof is complete. John

Thanks Coachman, plastic gangways have much finer detail. I'll have a think about that. John

I got a lot of the detailing done today: I have to redo the curved handrail for the other end. I got smart and made a jig this evening - I'll need to make a lot more before I'm finished. I think that cast suspended gangway looks pretty ugly. I expect it will look better when painted. This is the first time I've used one. Anyone have any tips on making these look better? You'll note I did do the suspension brackets. I also made a handrail and lever. Also note the lamp brackets. I made these from spare suspension brackets (there was a convenient etched hole) bent and cut down. John

Alright Coachman et al, you win. I am fed up with the plastic body. I thought I had got it done but discovered some door ventilators were crooked. In trying to fix that I just made things worse. It could be sorted but I think it would have to be taken to bare plastic again. So...I decided to do what I probably should have done in the first place and make the Comet version. I only have to do the body, because the underframe I built works great. I've been working on it today and here's where I got tonight: That arch of solder is pre-tinning because I have whitemetal suspended gangways to install. The gangways themselves have been assembled. John

Upside down windows????? Whatever do you mean Mike? I've just popped them in and secured with what we call Future (a very old bottle, I treat it like 18 year old (and that's probably how old it is) whiskey). There is an oh so slight bevel which can't be seen but can be felt - if that's what you mean. So, important to get that right. John

Just a quick update, I got my LaserGlaze windows a few days ago and have started the installation. John

I'm curious to know how the coupling height compares to the Kadee height gauge. John

I guess we'll find out in the fullness of time Legend. Are you referring to printed catalogue? I haven't seen that, only going off what's on their site. John

The coaches pictured in the link in post #111 above, certainly show the Midland style lining. Not only the description below the picture is quite specific. I've seen pictures of the forthcoming releases in "simplified" lining, but I'm hoping those are pics of old coaches. Newly tooled models would be nice, but I somehow doubt that. John

Interesting to watch. I did a Chivers double bolster recently: At least your kit was complete, mine was missing the ends and sides sprue so I had to scratch build those parts. I used Archer rivet transfers to reinstate the bolt heads. LMS Wagons Vol 1 has some good info that was invaluable for this build. John

Thanks Phil. I must have had this over 20 years and I'm only now getting around to fixing it up! I wouldn't like to have to make a living doing this, it takes me such a long time I would starve. John

I finally got the GUV presentable. I'm not super happy with the paint finish but the lighting has a lot to do with that I think. I found some leftover windows from a LaserGlaze Mk1 Suburban pack. With some slight sanding and trimming I was able to fit them. You can just see the security bars. I also fitted grab handles and door levers using 0.45mm NS wire. I used Comet Tee handles - fiddly! John